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re: I need some advice on classic boat restoration
Posted on 5/29/18 at 6:36 am to fishfighter
Posted on 5/29/18 at 6:36 am to fishfighter
Once I get the trailer fixed, I'm gonna run it up to the fiberglass boat repair shop for a once-over by a pro, and maybe he can walk me through everything. I just don't want to make more work for myself when I don't need to
Posted on 5/29/18 at 8:56 am to Hammertime
If you were close by, I could help you to point out what is what. Glass shops might not help much unless they are not busy. And yes, they charge a arm and a leg.
But, if one never did glass work and how much it sucks to do, I don't blame them for what they charge. 
Posted on 5/29/18 at 9:47 am to fishfighter
After reading more on the whaler forums, it seems like a few people have used the TotalBoat stuff, and it seems to be easiest. There is only one distributor, so all of my questions would go there.
I think I'll probably try the hull first since it doesn't look as bad. Sand to see how far the damage goes, and assess from there.
Do you think I should just go ahead and drill a hole in the bottom of the transom to see if anything drains out? Completely rigged out like from the factory with 3gal of fuel, a battery, and a 130lb engine, I can pick up the entire transom. It doesn't seem too heavy (for a boat). It's not easy, but I can pick it up.
Just looked it up:
Boat = 275-ish
Engine = 128
Battery = 45
Ancillary shite = maybe 75lbs
Total = 520lbs for the whole boat. I guess that feels about right
I think I'll probably try the hull first since it doesn't look as bad. Sand to see how far the damage goes, and assess from there.
Do you think I should just go ahead and drill a hole in the bottom of the transom to see if anything drains out? Completely rigged out like from the factory with 3gal of fuel, a battery, and a 130lb engine, I can pick up the entire transom. It doesn't seem too heavy (for a boat). It's not easy, but I can pick it up.
Just looked it up:
Boat = 275-ish
Engine = 128
Battery = 45
Ancillary shite = maybe 75lbs
Total = 520lbs for the whole boat. I guess that feels about right
This post was edited on 5/29/18 at 10:14 am
Posted on 5/29/18 at 9:50 am to Hammertime
I don't think those old whalers had wood core transoms
Posted on 5/29/18 at 10:38 am to Hammertime
Was the boat just sitting out in the rain? or did it have a roof over it? The foam that they used way back in the day was not closed cell. There is no real way of drying it out unless the hull is stored in day storage for a very long time.
Posted on 5/29/18 at 10:42 am to fishfighter
It was sitting in the open on a floating dock
Posted on 5/29/18 at 11:56 am to Hammertime
Just took the axle off. It fell maybe 12" off of the jack and cracked. Glad I made it home from Mississippi with this boat


Posted on 5/29/18 at 1:52 pm to Hammertime
make sure you wear long sleeves and pants and a respirator when you get to sanding and grinding.
You would be served well to put a good fan blowing all that away from you as you work.
You would be served well to put a good fan blowing all that away from you as you work.
Posted on 5/29/18 at 2:03 pm to fishfighter
quote:Just dropped it off at the trailer shop. They said they might have one done by the end of the day. It was just like 12ga c-channel. Doing 2x2 square tubing now
You sure was lucky
quote:I have a big carpet drying fan. The damn dog always sits right in front of it though
You would be served well to put a good fan blowing all that away from you as you work.
If it doesn't rain, I'm gonna start stripping everything out of it later this afternoon. Can I just lay the motor on the ground, or do I need to build some type of frame for it?
Posted on 6/7/18 at 8:21 am to Hammertime
Well, I took off the lower unit last night after much fighting. The front stud was frozen in there, and I had to gradually work up to getting a pickle fork in it and banging away. Other than some deposits, everything looked okay in it. Oil wasn't too bad, but I replaced it anyway.
Copper tube for water came out with the lower unit, so I'm gonna have to figure out how that goes back in.
Problem I'm running into now is that the impeller is stuck on the shaft. I got the shaft out, soaked the impeller for a few hours, and beat the correct end of the shaft while the impeller was in my bench vise. Still stuck. From all of the YouTube videos I've watched, it's just supposed to slide off. Am I gonna have to cut this thing off?
Copper tube for water came out with the lower unit, so I'm gonna have to figure out how that goes back in.
Problem I'm running into now is that the impeller is stuck on the shaft. I got the shaft out, soaked the impeller for a few hours, and beat the correct end of the shaft while the impeller was in my bench vise. Still stuck. From all of the YouTube videos I've watched, it's just supposed to slide off. Am I gonna have to cut this thing off?
Posted on 7/3/18 at 2:25 pm to Hammertime
Update on the boat since I finally got time to mess with it over the weekend. The engine stopped running, so I had to go through and replace/clean it part by part. It is smoking, smells like it is running rich, and will only run on 1/2 choke (not full or no choke). Spark is good, and I put new plugs in it. Checked each cylinder by removing individual wires while it was running. It slowly stopped running like it should have.
So far, I have:
Replaced starter solenoid
Polished up starter bendix shaft
New terminals on battery side of wiring
Checked all wiring
Replaced plugs (and gapped correctly)
Replaced primer switch
Rebuilt carb
Adjusted carb
Replaced water pump
New lower unit fluid
Replaced all fuel lines
So rebuilt the carb, with the exception of the main jet. Someone stripped it out, so I couldn't get the thing to unscrew. I soaked it, ran some wire through it, and blew it out with compressed air. Then, I ran some Seafoam through the engine, let it sit, and ran it some more on regular 50:1. The engine still won't run correctly, still smokes sometimes, and still smells like it is running rich. Plugs look perfectly normal. Fuel pump screen wasn't clogged, but maybe the pump could use a rebuild. It has no fuel filter.
Any ideas? I haven't ever had an engine be this much of a PITA
So far, I have:
Replaced starter solenoid
Polished up starter bendix shaft
New terminals on battery side of wiring
Checked all wiring
Replaced plugs (and gapped correctly)
Replaced primer switch
Rebuilt carb
Adjusted carb
Replaced water pump
New lower unit fluid
Replaced all fuel lines
So rebuilt the carb, with the exception of the main jet. Someone stripped it out, so I couldn't get the thing to unscrew. I soaked it, ran some wire through it, and blew it out with compressed air. Then, I ran some Seafoam through the engine, let it sit, and ran it some more on regular 50:1. The engine still won't run correctly, still smokes sometimes, and still smells like it is running rich. Plugs look perfectly normal. Fuel pump screen wasn't clogged, but maybe the pump could use a rebuild. It has no fuel filter.
Any ideas? I haven't ever had an engine be this much of a PITA
Posted on 7/3/18 at 4:50 pm to Hammertime
Did you check compression? Rings could be stuck.
Posted on 7/3/18 at 5:53 pm to sparkinator
I did the very precise finger-on-the-plug-hole test, and it passed.
It was running fine...until the starter stuff needed to be replaced, followed by the carb rebuild, fuel lines, and Seafoam. Hell, it even had old fuel in it. Seems like the more I replace on this engine, the worse it runs
*Got it figured out. I guess the seafoam cleaned up something, because the pickup tube in the bowl somehow got clogged again. Running and idling pretty well now. Next step is putting it in the water
It was running fine...until the starter stuff needed to be replaced, followed by the carb rebuild, fuel lines, and Seafoam. Hell, it even had old fuel in it. Seems like the more I replace on this engine, the worse it runs
*Got it figured out. I guess the seafoam cleaned up something, because the pickup tube in the bowl somehow got clogged again. Running and idling pretty well now. Next step is putting it in the water
This post was edited on 7/4/18 at 12:44 pm
Posted on 7/31/18 at 7:47 pm to Hammertime
7/31 Update:
Got it flipped over and on sawhorses Sunday. Sanded for about 3hrs today, and am maybe 1/3 of the way done the hull. I sanded the interior for a second, and the gelcoat is much softer, so it won't take too long.
I started with 40 grit paper, but it ate through the gelcoat too quickly, and got to the bare fiberglass where tiny holes were visible. Gonna have to fill those now. 80 grit works best. There aren't too many spots that'll need fairing, and only the bow eye needs some glass.
I also spoke to the paint/primer manufacturer, and they told me that I don't need to get all of the crazing or old gelcoat off. I just need it to be smooth enough not to feel the crazing, and the epoxy primer will fill in the miniscule cracks. That is the opposite of what I've seen other people do on the internet.
The rain has been slowing my progress. Plus, this thing has all kinds of weird curves that I can't get the sander in
Here it is this afternoon:
Got it flipped over and on sawhorses Sunday. Sanded for about 3hrs today, and am maybe 1/3 of the way done the hull. I sanded the interior for a second, and the gelcoat is much softer, so it won't take too long.
I started with 40 grit paper, but it ate through the gelcoat too quickly, and got to the bare fiberglass where tiny holes were visible. Gonna have to fill those now. 80 grit works best. There aren't too many spots that'll need fairing, and only the bow eye needs some glass.
I also spoke to the paint/primer manufacturer, and they told me that I don't need to get all of the crazing or old gelcoat off. I just need it to be smooth enough not to feel the crazing, and the epoxy primer will fill in the miniscule cracks. That is the opposite of what I've seen other people do on the internet.
The rain has been slowing my progress. Plus, this thing has all kinds of weird curves that I can't get the sander in
Here it is this afternoon:
Posted on 7/31/18 at 8:15 pm to Hammertime
Ill buy it right now!
I had one growing up. My dad sold it while I was away at college at LSU. Still haven’t forgiven him to this day.
Great boat! Sand it down heavily. Paint w awl grip. Enjoy!
I had one growing up. My dad sold it while I was away at college at LSU. Still haven’t forgiven him to this day.
Great boat! Sand it down heavily. Paint w awl grip. Enjoy!
Posted on 7/31/18 at 8:35 pm to Hammertime
dont sand it down to the fiberglass...if you do, you will never get it smooth again.
I am currently restoring a boat myself and like you, was a novice. If i could go back and start over, i would light sand the entire boat with 180 grit, cover the boat with fairing compound or bondo glass, then board/block sand it smooth. Then use glazing putty to fill any pits that remain, then wet sand it smooth with 320 grit. Prime it with two coats then wet sand with 320 grit. Then lay two to three coats of paint, then wet sand with 1500 grit....then wet sand with 2000 grit.
I am currently restoring a boat myself and like you, was a novice. If i could go back and start over, i would light sand the entire boat with 180 grit, cover the boat with fairing compound or bondo glass, then board/block sand it smooth. Then use glazing putty to fill any pits that remain, then wet sand it smooth with 320 grit. Prime it with two coats then wet sand with 320 grit. Then lay two to three coats of paint, then wet sand with 1500 grit....then wet sand with 2000 grit.
Posted on 7/31/18 at 8:49 pm to TopWaterTiger
quote:I'm gonna use TotalBoat. They already have the Whaler blue color. They told me to put down 4 coats of primer, so that sucks, but I only have to put two coats of paint on it after that. I'll probably go with three though
Paint w awl grip
Posted on 7/31/18 at 9:07 pm to Hammertime
Tap the transom with a white, rubber mallet to see if the transom is rotten.
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