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Started By
Message
I need some advice on classic boat restoration
Posted on 5/28/18 at 10:24 am
Posted on 5/28/18 at 10:24 am
Picked up this 1963 13ft Whaler yesterday with the intention of restoring it. Engine wasn't running (usual ethanol crap). Replaced lines, cleaned carb, and put new plugs in. Got it running, and put it in the water to test everything. Still runs perfectly. It is a 2-stroke 1996 Evinrude 30hp E30EEDE.
Since I'm not a boat mechanic, are there any other things I need to do? I pumped grease through all of the zerk fittings on the engine.
For the engine, I was looking to put power tilt/trim on it, because there is no way that the gf can lift this thing. She can't even do it out of the water. Any brands I should look at, or any cheap solutions?
Also, I'm guessing this red thing is a fuel shutoff. It is cracked and leaking, and I can't find any replacements online. Where would be a good place to look?
And now onto the hull...I have done some fiberglass work on boats, but never something this big. From what I have been reading, I am gonna have to sand this whole mf'er down to basically the blue coloring, then epoxy, then paint. It doesn't feel like it has any gelcoat on it, because it is completely dry. Is there any high-fill primer like for cars? Can I just fill it with bondo, sand, and then paint?
Deck
Hull
And how the hell am I supposed to run wiring for nav lights if the hull is filled with foam? Both the front and rear wiring are ripped off at the surface
Since I'm not a boat mechanic, are there any other things I need to do? I pumped grease through all of the zerk fittings on the engine.
For the engine, I was looking to put power tilt/trim on it, because there is no way that the gf can lift this thing. She can't even do it out of the water. Any brands I should look at, or any cheap solutions?
Also, I'm guessing this red thing is a fuel shutoff. It is cracked and leaking, and I can't find any replacements online. Where would be a good place to look?
And now onto the hull...I have done some fiberglass work on boats, but never something this big. From what I have been reading, I am gonna have to sand this whole mf'er down to basically the blue coloring, then epoxy, then paint. It doesn't feel like it has any gelcoat on it, because it is completely dry. Is there any high-fill primer like for cars? Can I just fill it with bondo, sand, and then paint?
Deck
Hull
And how the hell am I supposed to run wiring for nav lights if the hull is filled with foam? Both the front and rear wiring are ripped off at the surface
This post was edited on 5/28/18 at 5:13 pm
12
Posted on 5/28/18 at 10:27 am to Hammertime
Paging Ringleader
Posted on 5/28/18 at 11:20 am to Hammertime
I love those old whalers.
I have heard good things about Tri Parish Fiberglass in Folson. But I have no experience with them myself.
Here is a link to a Louisiana Sportsmen Store page. There is also a link there for Tri Parish's website but I couldn't make it work.
LINK
Good luck with that Whaler!!! Keep us posted.
I have heard good things about Tri Parish Fiberglass in Folson. But I have no experience with them myself.
Here is a link to a Louisiana Sportsmen Store page. There is also a link there for Tri Parish's website but I couldn't make it work.
LINK
Good luck with that Whaler!!! Keep us posted.
Posted on 5/28/18 at 11:28 am to cajuncarguy
I'm gonna put a new axle kit on the trailer before it goes anywhere. The axle is almost completely cracked through on both sides. Maybe an inch of rusted steel holding it together. Really surprised I made it home, because I wouldn't have pulled it here had it been that bad starting out.
I was cleaning the deck yesterday, and thought it was gonna snap
I was cleaning the deck yesterday, and thought it was gonna snap
Posted on 5/28/18 at 11:48 am to Hammertime
Any chance you checked to see if the foam in the hull is holding water? How is the transom? You may need to check out the fuel tank as well.
With the gel coat, you can sand that down and maybe put some filler back, unless you get some soft spots you may not need much epoxy work unless you plan on filling holes and such. You can go back over the filler with a marine paint like Awlgrip so you don’t have to redo the gel coat.
Should be a fun project.
With the gel coat, you can sand that down and maybe put some filler back, unless you get some soft spots you may not need much epoxy work unless you plan on filling holes and such. You can go back over the filler with a marine paint like Awlgrip so you don’t have to redo the gel coat.
Should be a fun project.
Posted on 5/28/18 at 11:52 am to Hammertime
Wait for fishfighter or glassman to respond as well.
Yeah I think you will need to sand and re-spray the gelcoat, but you probably don’t need to sand it all the way down I would think. Let’s be honest, you want it to look nice not be factory weight/spec so going all the way to glass probably isn’t necessary.
I’d do battery operated lights, just makes things easier Bc wiring is always a maintenance issue at least for me on small boats.
Yeah I think you will need to sand and re-spray the gelcoat, but you probably don’t need to sand it all the way down I would think. Let’s be honest, you want it to look nice not be factory weight/spec so going all the way to glass probably isn’t necessary.
I’d do battery operated lights, just makes things easier Bc wiring is always a maintenance issue at least for me on small boats.
Posted on 5/28/18 at 12:27 pm to Hammertime
I had that same boat growing up. Loved it. We just sanded and repainted it. It looked great when done.
As for the lights. There should be a pole running down the middle to run the wiring.
Does yours have the side console or just a tiller handle motor?
As for the lights. There should be a pole running down the middle to run the wiring.
Does yours have the side console or just a tiller handle motor?
Posted on 5/28/18 at 12:53 pm to Hammertime
Great boat right there.
I had a 13 I redid, sold and bought a 15 redid that, sold and bought a 17 lol...
You can try to cut and polish the existing gelcoat. That's just norMal oxidation and crazing. You can fill the remaining cracks with an epoxy paint then paint over that...
You going for a full restoration?
Continuouswave.Com
Whalercentral.com
I had a 13 I redid, sold and bought a 15 redid that, sold and bought a 17 lol...
You can try to cut and polish the existing gelcoat. That's just norMal oxidation and crazing. You can fill the remaining cracks with an epoxy paint then paint over that...
You going for a full restoration?
Continuouswave.Com
Whalercentral.com
Posted on 5/28/18 at 12:56 pm to bbvdd
quote:No idea how to check, but it all sounds solid when I bang on it. There are a few holes in the deck where screws came out though. Transom is in perfect condition. Fuel tank is removable.
Any chance you checked to see if the foam in the hull is holding water?
quote:Side console, but I am going to redo all of the mahogany in the boat. Besides rebuilding the trailer, that'll be one of the easier things
Does yours have the side console or just a tiller handle motor?
quote:I'm not a pro, so I know I won't end up with pro results. I just want to be happy with it, and make it look presentable. Not trying to spend a gazillion bucks either
You going for a full restoration?
This post was edited on 5/28/18 at 12:59 pm
Posted on 5/28/18 at 4:43 pm to bbvdd
quote:
Any chance you checked to see if the foam in the hull is holding water? How is the transom? You may need to check out the fuel tank as well.
You need to hit a weight scale to find out the total weight. Then check what the motor weighs and then the trailer. The later, a best guess there. This will give you an idea if the foam is holding any water which is a VERY HIGH chance.
quote:
With the gel coat, you can sand that down and maybe put some filler back, unless you get some soft spots you may not need much epoxy work unless you plan on filling holes and such. You can go back over the filler with a marine paint like Awlgrip so you don’t have to redo the gel coat.
This once you check weight. Awlgrip paint it easy to work with and dose build up good. There are primers that you can used before that are high build up. Water sanding is best after priming.
On that motor, that red lever is a cut off vale if I remember right. Not sure there. If you know when the last time the water pump was change and it is over 2 years old, change it. Lower unit oil. Leave the top screw in place and take out the bottom. Have a clear pan or bowl. Not much will come out, but if there is any water, it will come out first if the motor sits up a week. Oil floats above water. With any oil that comes out, smell it. If it smells burnt, change it. If it looks somewhat dark, change it. First thing here is to see if the lower unit seals are good, so check for water first. Being new to the motor, just change it no matter.
More on the hull. Those spots were screws are pulled, water got it. Places were there are deep cracks were screws pulled, they will need to be grinded down and rebuilt with glass.
This post was edited on 5/28/18 at 4:58 pm
Posted on 5/28/18 at 5:27 pm to fishfighter
quote:I can pick up the back of the boat and move it if that means anything. There are a few open screw holes, and one 1/2" depressed crack behind the bench. That seems like the only spots for water to get in. No other holes in the boat.
You need to hit a weight scale to find out the total weight
I'm guessing the water pump hasn't been changed in at least the 4 years since my gf's mom bought the boat. Lower unit oil probably hasn't either. It has been sitting on a floating dock, and maybe used to put putt around the harbor 10 times in that 4 years. They didn't know how to work the choke/throttle, and had a hard time starting the engine.
Since I'm going to redo the wood, I'm guessing I'll need to fill the screw holes and re-drill them, right? How thick is the glass that I'm gonna be grinding? I don't want to go completely through.
Eta: Was told it was a 1976. Just checked, and it is an early 1963
This post was edited on 5/28/18 at 5:31 pm
Posted on 5/28/18 at 5:54 pm to Hammertime
How much money you spent on that thing Baw?
Posted on 5/28/18 at 6:17 pm to CHEDBALLZ
Zero dollars. My gf's mom's boat. They don't really use it, so it is sitting in my driveway waiting to be rescued.
I've always wanted to do a Bertram 31, so this is a good/cheap start into the classic restoration world
I've always wanted to do a Bertram 31, so this is a good/cheap start into the classic restoration world
Posted on 5/28/18 at 9:26 pm to Hammertime
The easiest way to fix all the gel coat cracks on the inside is just linex it. It will adds few pounds, but not much. Probaly cost less as well. The right way is suuuuuper time consuming, and may not be worth it. There is a bass boat thread on here that will show you the right way.
Posted on 5/28/18 at 9:31 pm to Hammertime
Replace the water pump and if it's been sitting, the thermostats too. It's about $50 that could save you an engine.
I learned that the hard way on buying used stuff.
I learned that the hard way on buying used stuff.
Posted on 5/28/18 at 10:10 pm to Hammertime
quote:Fairing compound, not bondo
bondo, sand, and then paint?
Posted on 5/28/18 at 10:19 pm to Hammertime
I’m currently working to restore a 21’ center console, and thought it would be a good idea to remove all the old gelcoat and start fresh. Started with flap discs on an angle grinder then followed up with 50 grit paper on an orbital sander. I have invested twice as much time and money as I expected and just keep finding more issues. I’m now reglassing half the boat. Next time I’ll just buy a new boat.
I’m sure yours won’t be as bad as my experience, and that size boat is much more manageable. I don’t mean to discourage you as it can be a fun and rewarding project, just be aware that these projects are often more work/headache than you initially think. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
I’m sure yours won’t be as bad as my experience, and that size boat is much more manageable. I don’t mean to discourage you as it can be a fun and rewarding project, just be aware that these projects are often more work/headache than you initially think. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
Posted on 5/28/18 at 11:08 pm to djs017
I've seen people talk about using a grinder. That won't cut into the boat too much? What grit discs do you use? I figured I'd just use an RO sander, because a grinder would take a shite ton off quickly.
I'm not working right now, so I have time to work on it until I find a decent job
I'm not working right now, so I have time to work on it until I find a decent job
Posted on 5/28/18 at 11:27 pm to Hammertime
You definitely have to be careful. I used 60 grit flap disc and it ate the gel coat pretty quick. Keep the disc flat on the surface and keep moving. The ro sander would take forever if you’re trying to get to clean glass like I was. I just used it to clean and flatten the surface after 80-90% of the gelcoat was gone.
Posted on 5/29/18 at 5:57 am to djs017
I would NOT take it down to glass. Like I said, a high build primer will fill in the gelcoat cracks. Might take two or three coats to do so. You just want to remove enough dead. loose gelcoat, that is it.
Screw holes, now that will need heavy grinding, flaring out to correct it. 36 grit wheel will take it down fast. Just don't put to much pressure on it.
Screw holes, now that will need heavy grinding, flaring out to correct it. 36 grit wheel will take it down fast. Just don't put to much pressure on it.
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