Driving on roads with snow...

Give yourself plenty of room, don't do anything sudden. Feather the brakes.

Don’t drive over bridges with your foot on the gas. Coast over them.

You'll be fine in that. Take roads slower than usual, don't brake hard (you'll just skid). The feathering the brakes above was a good way to put it. If you see the road is like below, try to keep the tires in line with previous tracks. When you need to change lanes, don't take any sharp turns at speed just slowly glide over.



Bring a snowbrush/de-icer with you and make sure plenty of windshield washer fluid (you'll end up using a lot more from the salt). Put your windshield wipers up at night when parked if it's getting below freezing and snowing (one less thing to de-ice in the morning)

Carry a shovel in case slide off road in deep snow. Used to remove snow underneath vehicle allowing clearance to get back on the road.

Carry a -20 degree rated sleeping bag in case get stranded waiting for help.

Buy at least one set of tire chains for front tires. Use if in heavy snow or bad ice. Just drive slowly with them on.

Stay on main roads. Those get plowed and have other motorists around for assistance. Maintain a full gas tank as much as possible.

I lived in Wyoming for 8 years. Blizzards can be deadly if not prepared. In Wyoming it was long stretches for miles between towns and one may not see many other traveling motorists.

If going down steep grades downshift gears and let your transmission work for you.

It's a smoother way of braking so you don't get out of control.

If you’re in a truck, throw some sand bags/logs/cinder blocks in the bed to weigh it down some.

That 4x4 sticker on a big truck is misleading for snow/ice driving.

I've lived and driven in snow country for over 25 years. I worked at one of the ski resorts (part time) for 15. Some of the best advice I ever got was 4WD will help you go, it doesn't do anything to help you stop.

Most of the advice in this thread has been good. When my wife first started driving on snow, I told her, as been already said in this thread, don't do anything too fast. What you don't want to do is loose traction, either accelerating or breaking. Dive like you have an egg under you foot. Once you start sliding, bad things start to happen.

Listen to Boudinman, he gives good advice. Make sure you have extra supplies and a shovel. One of the most overlooked items from winter driving are tires. You have have a very capable snow vehicle and bad tires and you're in a world of hurt. Make sure yours are at least mud/snow rated (yours are). What helps a tired in winter driving is compound and sipes. Sipes are the extra cuts on the tire and they helps with winter traction. The more sipes, the better.

Go slow, use your brain and you'll be fine.

Driving on snow is exactly like driving on a muddy dirt road. It's slippery but pretty easy.

Just take it easy. Plan for stops well in advance. Same for turns.

Next time buy duratracs instead of those KO2s. They are severe snow rated in most LT sizes.

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Many believe 4wd is also 4 wheel stop.

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Have been known to drive into a deserted parking lot in 4h just a little too fast, yank ebrake for a 180, then give it a shite ton of throttle.

Op don't do that.

Put cold weather washer fluid in your car!!!!!!

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Driving on snow is exactly like driving on a muddy dirt road. It's slippery but pretty easy.

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I did wetlands work in Eastern NC for a long time and this really isn't true. I've driven in and around all types of swamps, bogs and marshes. While you can apply some of the same techniques, the reasons the roads are difficult are totally different.

On a muddy road, unless it's very greasy clay (that I've only seen 2 or 3 times), you'll stop pretty quickly if you want to. The problem is starting or maintaining traction. The surface tension of the water in the mud creates suction that prevents you from going. Additionally, the surface tension of the mud sticks to your tires filling in the treads and preventing them from gripping. As a result, in those conditions you want to maintain as much momentum as possible (partially to help keep the tread clear and partially to reduced the surface tension of the water and mud on the road) without wheel spin. Wheel spin will create ruts and destroy the road and that's not good (especially if you have to return that way later.)

It's a totally different animal than snow and ice where your loss of traction occurs because the coefficient of friction between the road surface and tires is at a minimum.

One thing that I've forgotten to mention in both posts is while low gear (not low range) is great for helping you keep off the brakes (especially when descending) be aware that there is often a big gap between 1 and 2. Down shifting to 1 often causes the wheels to start sliding. Once you start sliding it can be very difficult to recover on snow/ice. It's best to down shift early than to try to go after your speed is too high. People often worry about running the engine at higher RPM's in low gear (1 and 2), but I'd rather do that have it not go in or lose traction after things start to "speed up" so to speak. FWIW, I used to drive one of the steepest and most avalanche prone roads in North America on a regular basis (multiple times per week).