- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
re: Beginner Reloading Questions
Posted on 9/5/24 at 10:48 am to Park duck
Posted on 9/5/24 at 10:48 am to Park duck
quote:
Being shot out of an auto you will need to full length resize
For .223, I got the small base full length dies already. Put the Lee trimmer on order. It's not super expensive.
What are thoughts on crimping. I see some people say it's not necessary. Seems as though bullet setback in an auto feed platform would be something to be concerned about, so I plan to crimp. I have seen to stay away from bullet setting and crimping in the same step.
I tend to be a person that has to find something to do. So my plan is to randomly process ammo. Maybe take 30 minutes and resize 100 cases. Hand prime them when I have some free time. Then take some time to focus on a Saturday and finish loading. I figure I'll build up a stock, but then at some point, just replace what I shot that week. I usually shoot ~150 rounds at lunch every Friday.
2
Posted on 9/5/24 at 10:52 am to Jon A thon
auto loader, full length size and crimp is a must.
Posted on 9/5/24 at 11:20 am to Park duck
quote:
Not true, being new brass they are going to stretch a bunch.
I guess I typically only shoot 5.56/.223 brass 2-3 times and don't bother trimming it.
I can find a ton of new brass at my gun club when I need more.
Posted on 9/5/24 at 11:28 am to bbvdd
quote:
I guess I typically only shoot 5.56/.223 brass 2-3 times and don't bother trimming it.
I can find a ton of new brass at my gun club when I need more.
Still needs to be trimmed if full length sizing
Posted on 9/5/24 at 11:39 am to Park duck
quote:
Still needs to be trimmed if full length sizing
Only if it's past the 1.76" length. Typically isn't after one firing and sizing. At least it isn't for me and I'm always annealing the brass prior to sizing.
Posted on 9/5/24 at 12:06 pm to magicman534
I buy my powder at Vans. It’s a little pricey but still cheaper than paying hazmat.
Posted on 9/5/24 at 12:47 pm to bbvdd
Anyone using the RCBS “X” resizing die. Apparently you resize and trim once with a standard type die, but afterwards, the “X” die limits neck growth to the point that you shouldn’t have to trim for the life of the brass.
Came up in my research for the proper die to purchase initially.
Came up in my research for the proper die to purchase initially.
This post was edited on 9/5/24 at 12:48 pm
Posted on 9/5/24 at 12:57 pm to Jon A thon
I'd have to look into that, interesting but you'd better have really clean and slick brass.
Posted on 9/5/24 at 2:21 pm to Jon A thon
Yea, I have one. If I remember right, you have to trim the brass to use it. I hate trimming brass and I'd rather just punt it.
Posted on 9/5/24 at 4:01 pm to Jon A thon
I use This for all my brass prep. I REALLY hate brass prep by hand so this is worth its weight in gold for me. It will trim to a designated length, chamfer inside and outside of case neck, then clean and uniform primer pockets.
Also you need to look into annealing if you are going to trim and load more than 2 or 3 times. I use the candle method made popular by writer John Barness. You simply hold the case in your fingers, halfway down the case, and rotate the shoulder area in a candle flame until it's too hot to hold. Pretty idiot proof (which is why I do it). I use an alcohol lantern so I don't have to clean the soot from the case.
You will also want to tumble and clean your brass. I deprime and resize, then wet tumble in warm water with stainless steel pins and a drop of dawn. I use the cheap rock tumbler from Harbor Freight. After a few hours they shine like new and it also removes all the sizing lube. Then dry and load. You can use a corncob media tumbler as well to clean, I just prefer to use wet tumbling. Many bench rest guys prefer to leave the carbon in the necks for consistens bullet seating and release, I just dip my clean brass in a small bowl filled with lead shot and Imperial dry neck lube. A little goes a LONG way. But I also had success just loading them in fresh clean brass without the lube and would suggest you do the same unless you're like me and chasing tiny groups.
Also bookmark this place for some great deals on components. Especially for plinking ammo.
Also you need to look into annealing if you are going to trim and load more than 2 or 3 times. I use the candle method made popular by writer John Barness. You simply hold the case in your fingers, halfway down the case, and rotate the shoulder area in a candle flame until it's too hot to hold. Pretty idiot proof (which is why I do it). I use an alcohol lantern so I don't have to clean the soot from the case.
You will also want to tumble and clean your brass. I deprime and resize, then wet tumble in warm water with stainless steel pins and a drop of dawn. I use the cheap rock tumbler from Harbor Freight. After a few hours they shine like new and it also removes all the sizing lube. Then dry and load. You can use a corncob media tumbler as well to clean, I just prefer to use wet tumbling. Many bench rest guys prefer to leave the carbon in the necks for consistens bullet seating and release, I just dip my clean brass in a small bowl filled with lead shot and Imperial dry neck lube. A little goes a LONG way. But I also had success just loading them in fresh clean brass without the lube and would suggest you do the same unless you're like me and chasing tiny groups.
Also bookmark this place for some great deals on components. Especially for plinking ammo.
This post was edited on 9/5/24 at 4:07 pm
Posted on 9/5/24 at 4:34 pm to Bama Shadow
I've got the Frankford arsenal steel pin wet tumbler. I've heard some clean before resizing and depriming to keep dies clean. But then you get no cleaning of the primer pockets other than cleaning tool. Looked at the case prep system you linked, but that's a later on upgrade priced option for me at this time.
Posted on 9/5/24 at 5:20 pm to Jon A thon
FWIW, a non scientific study was done a while back about cleaning primer pockets. Turns out it isnt a big deal.
I still deprime before tumbling, just use a depriming die. Sometimes you can feel how loose the primer pockets are and can toss the really loose ones before putting anymore work into them.
I deprime->anneal->resize
I still deprime before tumbling, just use a depriming die. Sometimes you can feel how loose the primer pockets are and can toss the really loose ones before putting anymore work into them.
I deprime->anneal->resize
Posted on 9/5/24 at 7:01 pm to Jon A thon
quote:
But then you get no cleaning of the primer pockets other than cleaning tool
If I’m not loading for volume, I use this to deprime:
Frankfort Handheld depriming tool
Posted on 9/5/24 at 9:34 pm to Jon A thon
I wouldn't start by loading necked down rifle or pistol cartridges.
Start with 9mm or 38 Sp or even 357 Mag.
Never ever have more than one powder on the bench.
Never ever drink or smoke while handloading.
Decap and resize before tumbling.
Wear rubber gloves during handloading .... for too many reasons to list here not the least of which is ..... nevermind.
A turret press like the T-7 is all you'll ever need.
The more manuals the better.
Berry's and RMR are your friends. Even The Blues by PV have frugal value.
In the end, VV is your finest propellent.
Ask yourself why you are handloading. What is your motivation? And, especially if you're handloading for ARs, 15s or 10s or PCCs ..... are you willing to pay for 41s and 34s?
I mean, I taught the NRA Handloading Course for years. I ran 550s and 650s when I was competing. I've probably got close to $100k in equipment and components out there right now and still ... I'm always learning.
It's one of the greatest hobbies in the history of alpha mankind .... but you gotta decide why it is that you wanna do it and if you really mean to become an artist at doing it, or not?
Start with 9mm or 38 Sp or even 357 Mag.
Never ever have more than one powder on the bench.
Never ever drink or smoke while handloading.
Decap and resize before tumbling.
Wear rubber gloves during handloading .... for too many reasons to list here not the least of which is ..... nevermind.
A turret press like the T-7 is all you'll ever need.
The more manuals the better.
Berry's and RMR are your friends. Even The Blues by PV have frugal value.
In the end, VV is your finest propellent.
Ask yourself why you are handloading. What is your motivation? And, especially if you're handloading for ARs, 15s or 10s or PCCs ..... are you willing to pay for 41s and 34s?
I mean, I taught the NRA Handloading Course for years. I ran 550s and 650s when I was competing. I've probably got close to $100k in equipment and components out there right now and still ... I'm always learning.
It's one of the greatest hobbies in the history of alpha mankind .... but you gotta decide why it is that you wanna do it and if you really mean to become an artist at doing it, or not?
Posted on 9/6/24 at 11:34 am to scrooster
quote:
The more manuals the better.
What are the thoughts on applications like the Hornady Reloading App. I can purchase single cartridge loading specs for $1 I believe. I realize I'd eventually end up with several manuals to reference and it'd be nice to have that library as I expand. But I have the Speer manual that came in my kit, then looking at $35 to $50 to add other manuals, when really only using 2-3 pages from each of those manuals. It's a large up front investment if jumping straight in
Posted on 9/6/24 at 11:44 am to Jon A thon
I don't have a single manual.
I did so much research and asked questions on other forums that I was pretty comfortable when I bought my 1st press.
For recipe's, I've use the power's load data page on their website's and gone from there.
I did so much research and asked questions on other forums that I was pretty comfortable when I bought my 1st press.
For recipe's, I've use the power's load data page on their website's and gone from there.
Posted on 9/6/24 at 11:47 am to bbvdd
I have 2 and I never look at them. All the component manufacturers have tons of load data available for free online. I do buy the caliber specific little handbooks from midway and I reference those sometimes.
Posted on 9/6/24 at 1:54 pm to Jon A thon
quote:
I've heard some clean before resizing and depriming to keep dies clean.
Should always clean the brass as a first step. I use a Franford Arsenal dry tumbler with treated media and a shot of Finish 2000. Brass comes out nice and doesn't tarnish nearly as fast again. I've got prepped 30-06 and .308 brass that's been in the ammo boxes for nearly 10 years and still looks new.
Posted on 9/6/24 at 2:47 pm to Bama Shadow
quote:
You will also want to tumble and clean your brass.
Complete waste of time. Seriously. There's absolutely no point unless you like pretty brass.
Posted on 9/6/24 at 4:00 pm to Clames
quote:
Should always clean the brass as a first step.
Nope. This is strictly cosmetic and has no bearing on accuracy or life of brass. It's a waste of time.
Page 2 of 3
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News