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Message
Advice on woodwork paint problem
Posted on 4/4/18 at 4:42 pm
Posted on 4/4/18 at 4:42 pm
I painted this woodwork about 2 years ago using top of the line Sherwin Williams semi gloss paint. The paint has started to bubble up in some places as seen in pic 3. I scraped the bubbles flat removing the loose paint as seen in the pics. The new paint is stuck very well to the old paint as seen in the pics. It is the old paint releasing from the woodwork. Before painting, I cleaned the woodwork and recaulked, and scraped off a few small areas of loose paint, but there was not any widespread areas of loose paint. There is no moisture or mildew under the paint. The wood is not soft anywhere. Before painting the old paint was well adhered. In the places where the paint remains, the paint seems to be well adhered. This problem has happened on outside walls only, all woodwork on inside walls is not bubbling up. And even on the outside walls it is spotty where it is occuring.
In the pics, if you look close it can be seen where the woodwork meets the wall, it is opening up, so I guess it could be some house settlement. This house is about 120 years old and is about a 1/4 block from where the ACE just completed the drainage project along Jefferson Ave in Uptown NOLA. I know there are neighbors that are having problems with cracking walls, etc.
Could this be a settlement issue?
And how would you repaint the woodwork. My idea is to prime the raw wood spots with Bullseye 123 Primer and repaint the whole length of woodwork from corner to corner. Any suggestions, opinions, or rebuttals?
In the pics, if you look close it can be seen where the woodwork meets the wall, it is opening up, so I guess it could be some house settlement. This house is about 120 years old and is about a 1/4 block from where the ACE just completed the drainage project along Jefferson Ave in Uptown NOLA. I know there are neighbors that are having problems with cracking walls, etc.
Could this be a settlement issue?
And how would you repaint the woodwork. My idea is to prime the raw wood spots with Bullseye 123 Primer and repaint the whole length of woodwork from corner to corner. Any suggestions, opinions, or rebuttals?
8
Posted on 4/4/18 at 4:59 pm to doublecutter
Was this the only room, only wall to have this problem? This isn't a settlement issue, but the paint did not adhere. did you used a primer on the original coat? I wonder if there is some oil in the wood causing this problem. After you sand the old stuff down, you might want to hit the wood with an acetone or something similar to make sure the wood is clean before you add the new primer. Also, be aware of lead in the old paint.
Posted on 4/4/18 at 5:00 pm to doublecutter
That's not a settlement issue. That's a moisture issue. Somehow moisture is working its way into that wood and causing the paint to bubble. You need to sand it, prime it with a moisture-resistant primer, and then paint. I would use exterior or kitchen&bath paint to make sure it's moisture resistant as well.
First and foremost, though, you need to find out what the source of the moisture is. If you don't stop that source, you'll eventually have the same problem down the road.
First and foremost, though, you need to find out what the source of the moisture is. If you don't stop that source, you'll eventually have the same problem down the road.
Posted on 4/4/18 at 5:05 pm to doublecutter
Rip it out and put in breadboard wainscoting, and upgrade your air ducts and vents.
LINK
LINK
This post was edited on 4/4/18 at 5:08 pm
Posted on 4/4/18 at 6:10 pm to doublecutter
Like someone else said that's a moisture problem, that's also why the caulking is separating. Whatever primer you use make sure it's an oil primer, pro-block from sherwin williams is a good primer
Posted on 4/4/18 at 6:48 pm to wickowick
quote:
but the paint did not adhere. did you used a primer on the original coat?
Its the old paint that is not adhering. The new paint is adhered to the old paint and when I scrape it off, it leaves the raw wood.
Posted on 4/4/18 at 6:55 pm to doublecutter
I see floor vents so I assume the construction is pier and beam and the home is off the ground. I wonder if you are getting condensation from the vents mixing with walls without insulation. How new is the HVAC unit?
Posted on 4/4/18 at 7:01 pm to TDsngumbo
quote:
you need to find out what the source of the moisture is
I initially thought it was a moisture problem, but as I said, there was not mildew or moisture present. I even bent down and smelled the wood to see if it smelled musty, it just smelled kind of like old wood.
And this problem occurred in three separate areas. In a front room of the house, a room on the side of the house, and one place in a bedroom on the other side I f the house. I find it hard to believe that there is 3 separate water intrusion problems that occurred along the baseboard only in 3 separate ares. There is no water stains on the walls or ceilings and the house is built on piers 2 feet off the ground. I looked at the wood siding on the outside of where these areas are and didn't see anything that looked like it would leak or allow water in.
I guess it could be moisture but I just can't figure were it would originate.
Posted on 4/4/18 at 7:02 pm to wickowick
quote:
How new is the HVAC unit?
Not sure of exact age, but it was there well before I painted.
Posted on 4/4/18 at 7:48 pm to doublecutter
The wood wasn't primed originally. There isn't a simple solution to this friend.
Posted on 4/4/18 at 7:50 pm to doublecutter
quote:
I initially thought it was a moisture problem, but as I said, there was not mildew or moisture present. I even bent down and smelled the wood to see if it smelled musty, it just smelled kind of like old wood.
You need to check it with a moisture meter.
ETA: I see a window sill in the picture. I'd be checking that area closely.
This post was edited on 4/4/18 at 7:53 pm
Posted on 4/5/18 at 5:15 am to dragginass
quote:
You need to check it with a moisture meter.
THIS And check other areas that are not peeling to see the difference.
Posted on 4/5/18 at 6:43 am to doublecutter
Is this in Louisiana?
Things I would check out.
- Millwork paint properly prepped, correct product and application
- Negative air pressure (HVAC system) pulling in moisture from outside. Should be other issues like mildew or mold if this is the case.
- Building envelope, roof flashing, siding, vapor barrier, insulation etc. Where water or moisture could enter.
- Plumbing leaks. Condensation (temperature diferential).
- Sealed wall sole and top plate of wall (penetrations).
Things I would check out.
- Millwork paint properly prepped, correct product and application
- Negative air pressure (HVAC system) pulling in moisture from outside. Should be other issues like mildew or mold if this is the case.
- Building envelope, roof flashing, siding, vapor barrier, insulation etc. Where water or moisture could enter.
- Plumbing leaks. Condensation (temperature diferential).
- Sealed wall sole and top plate of wall (penetrations).
Posted on 4/5/18 at 7:42 am to sostan
I've seen that happen when oil base paint was applied over latex. Do you know what type paint the original was?
Posted on 4/5/18 at 8:09 am to doublecutter
quote:
And this problem occurred in three separate areas. In a front room of the house, a room on the side of the house, and one place in a bedroom on the other side I f the house. I find it hard to believe that there is 3 separate water intrusion problems that occurred along the baseboard only in 3 separate ares. There is no water stains on the walls or ceilings and the house is built on piers 2 feet off the ground. I looked at the wood siding on the outside of where these areas are and didn't see anything that looked like it would leak or allow water in.
How much linear feet is affected in each area? It might be easier on you to tear a board out and replace it than to do prep and paint work on your knees. When we renovated in our bed and bath, I had to take some up to cut a doorway in. I bought the already primed baseboard, put one coat on it before I installed it, and then put a finish coat on it after caulking and filling in the nail holes. But I have a compressor and nail gun so each piece went in quickly. As cheap as it is I might consider replacing the entire room at once so it is all fresh wood and paint. If it is a latex over oil paint problem, it will surface again on what you don't replace.
Posted on 4/5/18 at 8:53 am to ducksnbass
quote:
I've seen that happen when oil base paint was applied over latex.
Thats what i was thinking, but definitely not an expert. But i'll never forget having to peel the paint off of a set of french doors because the two previous paints didn't 'adhere'. Xanax was the only possible way to finish the job.
Posted on 4/5/18 at 9:27 am to SportTiger1
If it is latex over oil, the top coat would peel not all the paint.
My guess is also moisture. Pretty easy to scrape and sand the loose paint. Prime and repaint. But I'm sure you don't want to have to do it again.
What does Sherwin Williams have to say?
My guess is also moisture. Pretty easy to scrape and sand the loose paint. Prime and repaint. But I'm sure you don't want to have to do it again.
What does Sherwin Williams have to say?
Posted on 4/5/18 at 9:39 am to doublecutter
I'm guessing you (or whoever) didn't use primer initially.
Get yourself some extremely fine (200-300 grit or more) sandpaper for an orbital sander, a heat gun, and probably a water-based primer (oil-based works better in this scenario but with white you could get away with water) and just heat the areas around the tears, sand down the entire surface, prime with one or possibly two coats, and then re-paint.
Get yourself some extremely fine (200-300 grit or more) sandpaper for an orbital sander, a heat gun, and probably a water-based primer (oil-based works better in this scenario but with white you could get away with water) and just heat the areas around the tears, sand down the entire surface, prime with one or possibly two coats, and then re-paint.
This post was edited on 4/5/18 at 9:42 am
Posted on 4/5/18 at 10:16 am to Warrior Poet
I’d guess latex over oil paint trapped moisture and the oil paint pealed/released from any moisture present.
Posted on 4/5/18 at 10:23 am to bbvdd
quote:
I’d guess latex over oil paint trapped moisture and the oil paint pealed/released from any moisture present.
Yes I think that is technically correct, but in general I think you could overcome the problem if a proper primer was used over the oil-based. Best practice is to strip the old paint and sand. Just looking at the wood you can tell it will drink paint. But it could look satisfactory with a double coated primer and oil-based is preferable but water would probably work.
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