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Started By
Message
Washer quit draining
Posted on 12/7/17 at 11:51 am
Posted on 12/7/17 at 11:51 am
Chances the pump is clogged vs pump is out?
23
Posted on 12/7/17 at 11:52 am to mpar98
Out
Posted on 12/7/17 at 11:52 am to mpar98
Divorce her
Posted on 12/7/17 at 11:52 am to mpar98
are you sure its the pump?
if the agitator is stuck it wont ever finish and move to the drain cycle.
if the agitator is stuck it wont ever finish and move to the drain cycle.
Posted on 12/7/17 at 12:05 pm to CAD703X
It gets to the spin cycle
Posted on 12/7/17 at 12:27 pm to mpar98
That's going to be a heavy fricker to carry out...this is the time I'd pay extra from delivery and pick up of the old one...
Posted on 12/7/17 at 12:30 pm to mpar98
Mine went out about 2 months ago. It was going to be 200$ for a new pump/motor and then I would have to install it myself. Said frick it, went to lowes and bought a new one for $450 I think.
ETA: It's a lot easier now to just replace the shite and buy a new one. Appliances aren't made to last more than 10 years these days.
ETA: It's a lot easier now to just replace the shite and buy a new one. Appliances aren't made to last more than 10 years these days.
This post was edited on 12/7/17 at 12:32 pm
Posted on 12/7/17 at 12:30 pm to Steadyhands
Dump it in a hipster area so an artist can use the old washer as her canvas.
Posted on 12/7/17 at 12:31 pm to mpar98
Pump or the switch.
Posted on 12/7/17 at 12:34 pm to mpar98
I bought a new pump ($20 on amazon) and when I took the old one off, realized there was a piece of plastic stuck in it.
Beware, no matter how much water you get out before disconnecting, there is about 5 gallons left in there.
Beware, no matter how much water you get out before disconnecting, there is about 5 gallons left in there.
Posted on 12/7/17 at 12:41 pm to mpar98
I just went through this crap two weeks ago. Here's what I learned through some YouTube videos, trial and error, and a little bit of cursing:
1) Check the lid switch. If you don't hear it "click" when you push it down with a pencil or small screwdriver, then that's broken. Order a new switch on Amazon for $10.
2) If the switch isn't broken, check your hoses for clogs and then check the pump for clogs (like a rogue sock)
3) If no clogs, you might consider replacing the pump. Usually cheap and pretty easy. YouTube has some decent videos on how to do this repair.
4) If it still won't drain after 1,2, and 3, you're out of my realm of limited expertise.
1) Check the lid switch. If you don't hear it "click" when you push it down with a pencil or small screwdriver, then that's broken. Order a new switch on Amazon for $10.
2) If the switch isn't broken, check your hoses for clogs and then check the pump for clogs (like a rogue sock)
3) If no clogs, you might consider replacing the pump. Usually cheap and pretty easy. YouTube has some decent videos on how to do this repair.
4) If it still won't drain after 1,2, and 3, you're out of my realm of limited expertise.
Posted on 12/7/17 at 12:44 pm to mpar98
Depends on many factors, like brand and model.
Some have electric pumps some have mechanical pumps.
Some have electric pumps some have mechanical pumps.
Posted on 12/7/17 at 12:44 pm to CAD703X
Huh?
The agitator is attached to the transmission, if that's stuck you have much bigger problems.
On your maytag it's one or two belts and a mechanical pump.
On a whirlpool(pre2010) it's a pump on the motor.
Post 2010 pretty much everyone has an electric pump.
Pumps are cheap.
Fwiw the LG electric drain pump works on ALL washers that use 110v at the pump and have a split design.
I usually pay $49 per motor.
The agitator is attached to the transmission, if that's stuck you have much bigger problems.
On your maytag it's one or two belts and a mechanical pump.
On a whirlpool(pre2010) it's a pump on the motor.
Post 2010 pretty much everyone has an electric pump.
Pumps are cheap.
Fwiw the LG electric drain pump works on ALL washers that use 110v at the pump and have a split design.
I usually pay $49 per motor.
This post was edited on 12/7/17 at 12:49 pm
Posted on 12/7/17 at 12:45 pm to Triple Bogey
Well....
If you buy a $400 whirlpool now and get five years out of it, your are doing good.
If you buy a $400 whirlpool now and get five years out of it, your are doing good.
Posted on 12/7/17 at 12:47 pm to Triple Bogey
Do what triple bogey said. Had their scenario 2 months ago. Just get another one. Bucket out the water in mop bucket or shop vac it out. New will remove and install. Done
Posted on 12/7/17 at 12:50 pm to rattlebucket
If it's a whirlpool direct drive do not do this. Those machines are the holy grail, any other non speed queen machine, sure.
Though I have seen a lot of tossed machines that simply had a sock stuck in the pump.
Though I have seen a lot of tossed machines that simply had a sock stuck in the pump.
Posted on 12/7/17 at 12:53 pm to MrFelixx
Again, great advice. But general.
What if it's a GE? They use magnetic reed switches and you can't test step one without a strong magnet.
Though he said it spins. Sup you know the lid switch has to be good.
Your step two and three is spot on.
What if it's a GE? They use magnetic reed switches and you can't test step one without a strong magnet.
Though he said it spins. Sup you know the lid switch has to be good.
Your step two and three is spot on.
Posted on 12/7/17 at 12:53 pm to mpar98
Happened to me a while back. Went to the U-Fixit store to buy a new pump and the guy told me to check the pump and drain hose for a sock. I was skeptical but I checked it and sure enough, one of my wife's dainty little ankle socks was in the pump intake.
Posted on 12/7/17 at 12:59 pm to Napoleon
had a similar situation on my 1994 Kenmore two months ago. Turned out to be a bad lid switch. ordered one from amazon for $18 and watched a youtube video on how to replace. very easy.
Posted on 12/7/17 at 1:07 pm to Napoleon
Napoleon speaks the truth.
My washer WAS an 11 year-old Kenmore. Mechanical lid switch on that old machine.
My washer WAS an 11 year-old Kenmore. Mechanical lid switch on that old machine.
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