- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
New brake pads grinding.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:10 am
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:10 am
So I changed my front brake pads and the new ones are grinding in both sides.
It seems the old ones didn't go completely to the edge of the rotor and wore a small lip on the very outside edge of the rotor that has some rust. And the new brake pads are wider and rubbing that lip.
What's the best move here? Just let them grind and wear the lip down? Try to get different pads that are more like the old ones? Or should I be thinking new rotors.
Thanks.
It seems the old ones didn't go completely to the edge of the rotor and wore a small lip on the very outside edge of the rotor that has some rust. And the new brake pads are wider and rubbing that lip.
What's the best move here? Just let them grind and wear the lip down? Try to get different pads that are more like the old ones? Or should I be thinking new rotors.
Thanks.
This post was edited on 1/3/24 at 10:19 am
14
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:12 am to NATidefan
Rotors are so relatively cheap that I just throw new ones on every time I change my pads…
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:13 am to NATidefan
i usually just do pads and rotors together.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:14 am to NATidefan
I would start by doing it the correct way the first time.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:14 am to Warfox
You will need to either get the rotors turned to have the lip machined down or put on new rotors. Getting them turned is probably the cheapest and easiest route for you. Also your pads are not flush due to being raised up on one end due to the lip. You will get better braking once the pads fit flush like they should on the rotor face.
This post was edited on 1/3/24 at 10:15 am
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:15 am to NATidefan
Get the rotors turned down if the bedded section is still in spec as you should have done when changing the pads. Or replace rotors.
This post was edited on 1/3/24 at 10:17 am
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:16 am to NATidefan
If your rotors have a lip they are due to be swapped.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:19 am to NATidefan
Thanks, new rotors it is.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:22 am to NATidefan
Your brake pads should match the old ones exactly
If your new pads are touching the lip of rotor then something is wrong with install or new pads
And also, rotors have a minimum thickness rating, so no you don’t have to replace if they are in spec
If your new pads are touching the lip of rotor then something is wrong with install or new pads
And also, rotors have a minimum thickness rating, so no you don’t have to replace if they are in spec
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:22 am to NATidefan
replace the rotors the brake pads won't wear down that lip they will just eat your pads just go get a pair of rotors and if its a toyota, oem are cheaper online than crap you get at auto zone
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:30 am to Cracker
You put the pads on backwards. Flip them around.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:31 am to NATidefan
They will wear in for free. Spend your money if you like.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:34 am to NATidefan
This may sound completely stupid, but check those pads. Make sure they aren't installed backward.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:43 am to NATidefan
happened on wifes car recently. Evetime you would depress the brake after a redlight or if the car was in park it would grind and release a few seconds later. The parking brake apparently needed a fine adjustment.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 10:54 am to EMAW2000
quote:
You put the pads on backwards. Flip them around.
Don't think so, I checked.
But I'll double check them.
I did engage the parking break which I haven't used in a while, so that might be involved.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 11:33 am to NATidefan
Before you chase a lot of other parts… Double check the type of pads you got.
Some brake pads are designed to rub (even to the point of being able to smell them) because the heat up actually works to harden the ceramic and increase service life.
Some brake pads are designed to rub (even to the point of being able to smell them) because the heat up actually works to harden the ceramic and increase service life.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 12:19 pm to ProbyOne
quote:
Your brake pads should match the old ones exactly If your new pads are touching the lip of rotor then something is wrong with install or new pads And also, rotors have a minimum thickness rating, so no you don’t have to replace if they are in spec
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Posted on 1/3/24 at 12:32 pm to Warfox
quote:
Rotors are so relatively cheap that I just throw new ones on every time I change my pads…
The rotors on my car are attached to the hub with a screw that is impossible to remove. I've tried everything amd can't get that bastard out.
Posted on 1/3/24 at 12:40 pm to Warfox
quote:
Rotors are so relatively cheap that I just throw new ones on every time I change my pads…
this ^^^^^^^
but to answer your question, do nothing, just drive it. after about 100 miles they will wear into the pads and stop making noise.
if it really bothers you that much you cant wait, then use side grinder to grind off and smooth out that lip
Posted on 1/3/24 at 12:44 pm to NATidefan
quote:
Thanks, new rotors it is.
yes, and the reasons are 2 fold, 1 the new rotors have a rough surface that ensure better breaking, and 2 the new pads need that rough surface to wear in correctly. if not you can get squeaking brakes and other breaking issues
Page 1 of 2
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News