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Posted on 1/11/16 at 7:29 pm to Kcrad
Google the model number and there are sites that will tell you the most common parts that go out, and how successful people were at repairing them. I replaced the lower heating element a few years ago for not muc at all. Still going great.
Posted on 1/11/16 at 7:29 pm to chryso
Was it grounded?
Posted on 1/11/16 at 7:31 pm to chryso
I've always had hot deals with Best Buy. The yeast you can do is ask for a discount.
Posted on 1/11/16 at 7:34 pm to chryso
Your oven get pregnant you will have lil easy bake oven
Posted on 1/11/16 at 7:42 pm to chryso
quote:
General Electric - it is electric
It's either the element or the board.
How handy are you? Do you have a meter?
Both are cheap and pretty easy to replace.
Mine went out about 6 months ago. It happened to be the board. $75 and about 30 minutes later and she's like new.
Posted on 1/11/16 at 7:43 pm to tigerpike
I think it might be the thermostat. Is that easy to fix?
Posted on 1/11/16 at 7:43 pm to chryso
The rats in your house chewed through a wire inside, you filthy frick.
Posted on 1/11/16 at 7:45 pm to chryso
quote:
Is the heating element broken? That is a cheap and easy repair to do yourself.
Posted on 1/11/16 at 7:47 pm to chryso
Mine went out yesterday evening. Might have to go to walmart and get a heater to stay warm tonight. 
Posted on 1/11/16 at 7:54 pm to tigerpike
If everything is working and it's just not heating up it's likely the heaping element. There's a place off flannery that sells the part for about 20$.
4 screws and 2 wires. Takes longer to go buy the part than to change it.
4 screws and 2 wires. Takes longer to go buy the part than to change it.
Posted on 1/11/16 at 7:56 pm to chryso
I had a GE giving an error. Googled and ended up fixing it with sticky notes in between ribbon cables. Do some research
Posted on 1/12/16 at 10:36 am to chryso
quote:
General Electric - it is electric
GE anything it's almost always the control board that failed, but you could get lucky and only need a heating element
Posted on 1/12/16 at 10:48 am to tigerman03
there is such a variety in Board prices. Last Thursday I had two Frigidaire oven failures. Both needed a board. One was $79 the other $235 (that's wholesale, no tax before my mark-up)
On some ovens it may cost $350 for a board and on others less than $#100.
First thing first. You can diagnose the entire oven from the back of a control board. The yellow thick wire is always the Line 1 output to the heating element, the line two will usually be brown or purple on a GE. With the power off check fo continuity between yellow and brown/pruple if you have continuity you have a good element, you can do the same with the blue wire to brown/purple to check the broil element continuity.
Next, you unplug the sensor from the oven. Grip it in your hand tight, and measure resistance across the terminals, if the resistance goes up while gripping it and down when you let go likely it's good. (usually they are 150ohms at room temp and you can check for that on the back of the control. )
Some ovens have a thermal fuse which cuts the sensor continuity and disables the oven, but this always gives you an error code.
If you are not getting input from the push buttons (buttons not doing anything) the earlier mentioned fix of putting paper behind the ribbon cable could help you here, but that only fixes unresponsive button issues. If you go to start your oven and it looks like it's coming on, then that won't fix it.
If you have an electric control you should be getting an error code when the oven fails to heat.
If you have a knob to control the oven, your earlier idea that it was a thermostat could be correct as well. (those today are pretty rare except with high end units.)
Always remove power to the oven before changing the element, on some ovens the L2 leg is always hot to the element and you could mess something up or get shocked if the power is on.
On some ovens it may cost $350 for a board and on others less than $#100.
First thing first. You can diagnose the entire oven from the back of a control board. The yellow thick wire is always the Line 1 output to the heating element, the line two will usually be brown or purple on a GE. With the power off check fo continuity between yellow and brown/pruple if you have continuity you have a good element, you can do the same with the blue wire to brown/purple to check the broil element continuity.
Next, you unplug the sensor from the oven. Grip it in your hand tight, and measure resistance across the terminals, if the resistance goes up while gripping it and down when you let go likely it's good. (usually they are 150ohms at room temp and you can check for that on the back of the control. )
Some ovens have a thermal fuse which cuts the sensor continuity and disables the oven, but this always gives you an error code.
If you are not getting input from the push buttons (buttons not doing anything) the earlier mentioned fix of putting paper behind the ribbon cable could help you here, but that only fixes unresponsive button issues. If you go to start your oven and it looks like it's coming on, then that won't fix it.
If you have an electric control you should be getting an error code when the oven fails to heat.
If you have a knob to control the oven, your earlier idea that it was a thermostat could be correct as well. (those today are pretty rare except with high end units.)
Always remove power to the oven before changing the element, on some ovens the L2 leg is always hot to the element and you could mess something up or get shocked if the power is on.
Posted on 1/12/16 at 11:00 am to Napoleon
I think this oven is original to my house so I think it is a from around 1969. It is old fashioned knobs. I am afraid to get rid of it because all the new stuff seems to be crap.
How are the chances that I will be able to find a thermostat for it?
How are the chances that I will be able to find a thermostat for it?
Posted on 1/12/16 at 11:04 am to chryso
oh... Oh. Forget everything I have said so far.
The thermostat may be no longer availible, Ebay would have it before most parts stores.
Do you have a model number?
How sure are you that it's the thermostat? Are elements coming on at all? Broil? Bake?
If Broil works and Bake don't I would at least pull the Bake element and test it with a continuity checker.
You are NOT going to get that same thermostat, so now it's all about finding compatible models.
The thermostat may be no longer availible, Ebay would have it before most parts stores.
Do you have a model number?
How sure are you that it's the thermostat? Are elements coming on at all? Broil? Bake?
If Broil works and Bake don't I would at least pull the Bake element and test it with a continuity checker.
You are NOT going to get that same thermostat, so now it's all about finding compatible models.
Posted on 1/12/16 at 11:12 am to Napoleon
I have a model number at home. I googled it yesterday but didn't get any hits.
I am not positive but I feel pretty sure it may be the thermostat.
I was using it yesterday and when I went to check my food I noticed that the thermometer I keep inside the oven said 200 when I had it set for 300. I turned the temperature adjust knob up to 350 and I heard it click and the little light came on. I looked later and the temp was still about 200 so I turned the temp knob again and this time I didn't hear the click until it was about 400.
At this point I figured something was up. I turned off the oven and came back a little later and no matter how much I turn the temp adjust dial it never clicks and the light never comes on.
I am not positive but I feel pretty sure it may be the thermostat.
I was using it yesterday and when I went to check my food I noticed that the thermometer I keep inside the oven said 200 when I had it set for 300. I turned the temperature adjust knob up to 350 and I heard it click and the little light came on. I looked later and the temp was still about 200 so I turned the temp knob again and this time I didn't hear the click until it was about 400.
At this point I figured something was up. I turned off the oven and came back a little later and no matter how much I turn the temp adjust dial it never clicks and the light never comes on.
Posted on 1/12/16 at 4:38 pm to chryso
The model number on my oven is J C1402B.
It is a General Electric.
It is a General Electric.
Posted on 1/12/16 at 4:51 pm to chryso
Posted on 1/12/16 at 5:00 pm to chryso
Go to sears.com
they have coupons online for appliance repair.
We use Sears for ovens and washer/dryer.
they have coupons online for appliance repair.
We use Sears for ovens and washer/dryer.
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