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Furniture refinish question?
Posted on 10/24/16 at 11:12 am
Posted on 10/24/16 at 11:12 am
I posted about this antique sideboard I am doing for Mom. I stripped it and re-stained it. I am pretty damned proud of myself.
I went with a rub on poly finish, but have 2 questions.
1. Can you use Tung oil and then poly? Is there a point to doing that? Is it overkill? I've already put a coat of poly on it, so this is more of a for future reference question.
2. How many coats? The can says 2-3, but I have read and seen on youtube people mention 6-8 coats?
And another tangent/question.....
Harbor Freight products? They have a fairly large hand held power sander that is about 30-40 bucks? Has to be a POS, no? Anybody with good or bad stories about Harbor Freight products? Place is great for cheap throw away shite like foam brushes and sand paper etc, but I wonder about their power tools?
I will stop rambling now....
I went with a rub on poly finish, but have 2 questions.
1. Can you use Tung oil and then poly? Is there a point to doing that? Is it overkill? I've already put a coat of poly on it, so this is more of a for future reference question.
2. How many coats? The can says 2-3, but I have read and seen on youtube people mention 6-8 coats?
And another tangent/question.....
Harbor Freight products? They have a fairly large hand held power sander that is about 30-40 bucks? Has to be a POS, no? Anybody with good or bad stories about Harbor Freight products? Place is great for cheap throw away shite like foam brushes and sand paper etc, but I wonder about their power tools?
I will stop rambling now....
3
Posted on 10/24/16 at 11:47 am to LSU alum wannabe
You "can" use Tung oil then poly, but it's a bad idea. The poly won't cure correctly, and the oil would have just been a waste anyway. I'm assuming you're using an oil-based poly.
I would use at least 3-4 coats. 6-8 would only be even maybe useful for a table that would see a lot of food, cleaning products, and abuse. Even then, I only put 4 coats on dining tables.
For the HF stuff, you get what you pay for. It all works out of the box, and if you only need it for this job, it'll be fine. But yes, it is crap. If you're looking for something that will last at least a few years, just go buy the 80 dollar models at HD.
I would use at least 3-4 coats. 6-8 would only be even maybe useful for a table that would see a lot of food, cleaning products, and abuse. Even then, I only put 4 coats on dining tables.
For the HF stuff, you get what you pay for. It all works out of the box, and if you only need it for this job, it'll be fine. But yes, it is crap. If you're looking for something that will last at least a few years, just go buy the 80 dollar models at HD.
Posted on 10/24/16 at 1:14 pm to raisinbran
Now I sanded too damned firmly between coats and took off some stain. 
I think the sanding is not necessary between coats
I think the sanding is not necessary between coats
Posted on 10/24/16 at 1:54 pm to LSU alum wannabe
I sand 220 grit between coats. VERY lightly, almost no pressure. 320 grit after the final coat.
Posted on 10/24/16 at 2:07 pm to LSU alum wannabe
You will need to fix the stain by resanding and re staining.
Applying the finish apply a few coats if using oil poly you can cut it with mineral spirits 20-30% it will dry much faster and you can build coats before you start sanding between coats build up a finish than when sanding use 400 or higher use wet sanding paper and wet sand it it will be slick as glass no reason to use a power sander between coats.
Applying the finish apply a few coats if using oil poly you can cut it with mineral spirits 20-30% it will dry much faster and you can build coats before you start sanding between coats build up a finish than when sanding use 400 or higher use wet sanding paper and wet sand it it will be slick as glass no reason to use a power sander between coats.
Posted on 10/24/16 at 2:14 pm to Cracker
quote:
You will need to fix the stain by resanding and re staining.
It is just a spot on a leg post. This area is a lathed leg, so it is round. Can stain be applied after poly? I know it needs to be sanded, but does it need to be to bare wood? The area is essentially a scuff. No bigger than the width of a pencil eraser.
I am using 320 grit. There are now 2 coats of poly on it.
I am really enjoying this shite. I just don't want to end up becoming "pick through the trash guy".
Posted on 10/24/16 at 2:14 pm to raisinbran
quote:
I sand 220 grit between coats. VERY lightly, almost no pressure. 320 grit after the final coat.
You can use steel wool between coats if you do not have the sand paper. Just make sure the poly has had a good amount of time to set and harden.
Posted on 10/24/16 at 2:21 pm to raisinbran
quote:
For the HF stuff, you get what you pay for. It all works out of the box, and if you only need it for this job, it'll be fine. But yes, it is crap. If you're looking for something that will last at least a few years, just go buy the 80 dollar models at HD.
Yep. Some of it may run a while. Some may crap out after a month. I bought a knockoff sawzall several years ago that is still running great. I use it for all sorts of things. I bought s cordless drill and it made it through two projects. I much prefer corded tools but I was putting a playset together in the back of my yard and didn't want the hassle of extension cords. I ran that thing all day for a weekend. Then I used it to build a few things in the garage. It still works but the charger won't charge the battery. But it was $15.
Posted on 10/24/16 at 2:41 pm to TU Rob
quote:
Yep. Some of it may run a while. Some may crap out after a month. I
I bought a reciprocating saw from them for $20 on sale full well knowing it was junk and if I ended up using it more than 1 or 2 projects, I'd go buy a decent one from Home Depot. That damn thing won't die. I've had it 4 yrs now and it's still going strong
You just never know with HF stuff. Most of their hand tools have a lifetime warranty, so if it breaks, just bring it back in & they'll replace right then and there, no receipt needed. I've bought several tools there that I don't use often and so far everything's been great.
Posted on 10/24/16 at 2:43 pm to SirSaintly
quote:
Most of their hand tools have a lifetime warranty, so if it breaks, just bring it back in & they'll replace right then and there, no receipt needed. I've bought several tools there that I don't use often and so far everything's been great.
Yeah, I think I may by a hand sander or two. At those prices they are essentially disposable.
Posted on 10/24/16 at 4:33 pm to LSU alum wannabe
That small I would let it go try wet sanding it's the cats arse
Posted on 10/24/16 at 5:49 pm to LSU alum wannabe
(no message)
This post was edited on 12/28/25 at 6:46 am
Posted on 10/24/16 at 5:59 pm to LSU alum wannabe
go to youtube. there are a lot of videos on refinishing furniture.
Posted on 10/24/16 at 6:10 pm to LSU alum wannabe
1. Yes you have to let the tung oil dry for a few days first. Also, it doesn't pay to stain it if you ate going to use tung oil.
2. I'd put a heavy coat of tung oil, let it sit a couple days, then another coat. More that that is overkill especially on hard woods.
Some stuff from Harbor Freight is great. Bar clamps, corner clamps, earthquake impact wrench, floor jacks, yellow metal levels, japanese style trim saw, impact sockets, dust collector, belt sander. Unfortunately I don't have much experience with their power tools.
2. I'd put a heavy coat of tung oil, let it sit a couple days, then another coat. More that that is overkill especially on hard woods.
Some stuff from Harbor Freight is great. Bar clamps, corner clamps, earthquake impact wrench, floor jacks, yellow metal levels, japanese style trim saw, impact sockets, dust collector, belt sander. Unfortunately I don't have much experience with their power tools.
Posted on 10/24/16 at 6:16 pm to CHEDBALLZ
(no message)
This post was edited on 12/28/25 at 6:46 am
Posted on 10/24/16 at 6:28 pm to lnomm34
use a natural oil it will bring out the character and not splotch like stains can
Posted on 10/24/16 at 6:48 pm to Cracker
(no message)
This post was edited on 12/28/25 at 6:45 am
Posted on 10/24/16 at 7:29 pm to lnomm34
Don't over analyze it.
Tung oil is varnish, not oil.
Mix a little stain with the poly and hit the area you sanded.
And have fun, it's part of the learning process.
Tung oil is varnish, not oil.
Mix a little stain with the poly and hit the area you sanded.
And have fun, it's part of the learning process.
Posted on 10/24/16 at 8:06 pm to LSU alum wannabe
My orbital sander gets a lot of use but I prefer a sanding sponge for most projects like yours.
Think of Harbor Freight as a disposable tool store.
Think of Harbor Freight as a disposable tool store.
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