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re: Best brands for car speaker systems
Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:21 am to Chad504boy
Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:21 am to Chad504boy
Diyma always has the answers…
LINK
Looks like you have ANC (noise cancellation). This will ruin your day if not taken into account.
LINK
Looks like you have ANC (noise cancellation). This will ruin your day if not taken into account.
Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:22 am to salty1
Do you have a shareable email address? Ive been wanting to upgrade my system as well
Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:25 am to Chad504boy
2k to listen to low quality streaming audio from the internet seems like a lot to me…
Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:27 am to Chad504boy
quote:
Looking for quality and value. Not looking for the highest end high dollar stuff. What brands should i key in on for speakers, subwoofer, and amps
Most options that are rated higher than your stock speakers are going to help anyway so I'd base that on preffered price if the higher rated speakers have similar output.
frick a subwoofer and amps. I had a 8" 100 Watt Bazooka tube and it was very nice/ clean. You can get a 250 watt with an internal amp and avoid a bunch of headaches along with having a badass setup that isn't going the rattle the frick out of your car.
This post was edited on 5/2/25 at 10:47 am
Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:27 am to i am dan
quote:
I remember ordering a system from here when I was in 9th grade
Besides Crutchfield, I ordered a lot of stuff from J&R back in the early 80's.. sadly they never recovered from 9/11 since they were located blocks from ground zero

Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:28 am to Dantheman504
quote:
I had a 8' 100 Watt Bazooka tube
damn where the hell did you fit that?
Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:34 am to Chad504boy
quote:
damn where the hell did you fit that?
Under the middle back seat of a Chevy Silverado. I might have lied and it was a 6", It was a while ago. I know they used to sell 6", 8", and 12".
The Bazooka tubes are way cheaper than getting individual sub's/ amps. They also take up much space than subs/ amps. They are also a cheaper install. And they have more boom/ less rattle than other set ups with great clarity. You can get them with or without the nob to control bass levels.
I didn't even get a nob installed and it adjusted pretty well from rap to country etccc without messing with the songs.
This post was edited on 5/2/25 at 10:38 am
Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:37 am to Chad504boy
Rockford Fosgate. Have four 8 inch and a 12" sub pushed by a fosgate 1500 watt 5 way amp.
Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:38 am to Dantheman504
8' joke went over your head.

Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:42 am to Got Blaze
I had this video game and the 3d glasses for Sega. Sega was way ahead of their time. The glasses were legit 3d glasses in that they were powered and flickered each eye back and forth really fast. The 3-d effect was much greater than the glasses you wear at Disney or movies now.
Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:46 am to Chad504boy
quote:
8' joke went over your head
You know my first thought was to say "up your arse" but I wasn't sure if it was a legit question lol.
That would be a bigass Bazooka tube...
This post was edited on 5/2/25 at 10:48 am
Posted on 5/2/25 at 10:55 am to salty1
With your budget, and figuring about 35% for install labor, this is what I’d do. You can probably biy any of these items from just about any reputable car audio shop. None will beat Crutchfield pricing, but almost all will match. Some will not install gear they don’t sell…others don’t care. Since you should be able to get the gear for the same cost, buying from the shop should help you negotiate reasonable rates for labor.
1) Kicker 47KEYLOC Smart Line Output Converter - $130
This will allow you to integrate to the factory signal and acquire a decent signal to send to your amps. It’ll do a lot for the money, and I’ve never heard anything bad about this device. It has basic DSP functionality, which will allow the installer to tune your vehicle to sound a lot better than factory.
2. Front - JL Audio C2650
(a-pillars and front doors)
This component set from JL sounds nice and will fit your factory locations with little trouble. They come with a passive crossover, which will save you amplifier channels (four speakers ran from two amp channels with passive crossover). This is a 6.5 inch woofer and soft some tweeter. $300
3) rear doors - JL Audio C2-650X
Coaxial woofer and tweeter - you want this for rear fill since the two speakers will cover a broader frequency range than just a woofer alone. It has a built in crossover for the tweeter. $250
4) sub ( working on this)
5) amp ( working on this - will be a five channel)
1) Kicker 47KEYLOC Smart Line Output Converter - $130
This will allow you to integrate to the factory signal and acquire a decent signal to send to your amps. It’ll do a lot for the money, and I’ve never heard anything bad about this device. It has basic DSP functionality, which will allow the installer to tune your vehicle to sound a lot better than factory.
2. Front - JL Audio C2650
(a-pillars and front doors)
This component set from JL sounds nice and will fit your factory locations with little trouble. They come with a passive crossover, which will save you amplifier channels (four speakers ran from two amp channels with passive crossover). This is a 6.5 inch woofer and soft some tweeter. $300
3) rear doors - JL Audio C2-650X
Coaxial woofer and tweeter - you want this for rear fill since the two speakers will cover a broader frequency range than just a woofer alone. It has a built in crossover for the tweeter. $250
4) sub ( working on this)
5) amp ( working on this - will be a five channel)
Posted on 5/2/25 at 11:08 am to salty1
^^^^ pretty much this. A 250 Watt Bazooka tube w/ internal amp is about $250-$300. So cheaper than doing subscription/ amps separately and will probably save atleast 20%-30% on install.
Posted on 5/2/25 at 11:09 am to Chad504boy
JL is obviously one of the top choices but can be pricey Focul is top notch but you pay for them. JL does have some more affordable subs that sound great for $250 give or take.
I would love to have foculs in my rig but just not going to spend that kind of money personally. So here is my current setup with cost in mind. Keep in mind an amp is a must. Stock headunits do not supply enough power to aftermarket speakers. An amp or amps solves that problem.
My setup
JL 10 in A trend truck box with a 600 w Jensen amp pushing it.
2 Pioneer A Series and 2 Kicker c door speakers. Pioneers are superior sound quality clarity, the Kickers are louder and more bass . Both are $90 give or take for a pair and happy with both but I will likely take the kickers out and replace with pioneers.
Jensens are cheap amps and get a lot of hate but I’m very pleased with them for the cost. Connect to each using Bluetooth to adjust gain, EQ, crossover to get everything dialed in.
Sound deadening mats/material on the doors and floors. I was skeptical at first but honestly they makes a world of difference in sound quality and just the feel of the vehicle. They are a must in my opinion if within your budget. I spent around $150 on material but could be done cheaper. I will also be adding more to other areas of the truck when I have the time to pull headliner. But I’m very pleased with where I am if I made no changes.
Supercrew F150 Lariat. I have around $1200 in it right now and very pleased.
Also, Powerbass gets a lot of love from the F150 forum community. Appear to be a very reputable company with quality stuff.
Good luck
I would love to have foculs in my rig but just not going to spend that kind of money personally. So here is my current setup with cost in mind. Keep in mind an amp is a must. Stock headunits do not supply enough power to aftermarket speakers. An amp or amps solves that problem.
My setup
JL 10 in A trend truck box with a 600 w Jensen amp pushing it.
2 Pioneer A Series and 2 Kicker c door speakers. Pioneers are superior sound quality clarity, the Kickers are louder and more bass . Both are $90 give or take for a pair and happy with both but I will likely take the kickers out and replace with pioneers.
Jensens are cheap amps and get a lot of hate but I’m very pleased with them for the cost. Connect to each using Bluetooth to adjust gain, EQ, crossover to get everything dialed in.
Sound deadening mats/material on the doors and floors. I was skeptical at first but honestly they makes a world of difference in sound quality and just the feel of the vehicle. They are a must in my opinion if within your budget. I spent around $150 on material but could be done cheaper. I will also be adding more to other areas of the truck when I have the time to pull headliner. But I’m very pleased with where I am if I made no changes.
Supercrew F150 Lariat. I have around $1200 in it right now and very pleased.
Also, Powerbass gets a lot of love from the F150 forum community. Appear to be a very reputable company with quality stuff.
Good luck
Posted on 5/2/25 at 11:17 am to Chad504boy
Crutchfield will tell you what speakers are available for the year make and model of your car. They also provide installation instructions.
Posted on 5/2/25 at 11:17 am to salty1
quote:
4) sub ( working on this)
5) amp ( working on this - will be a five channel)

Posted on 5/2/25 at 11:18 am to boxcarbarney
quote:
Crutchfield will tell you what speakers are available for the year make and model of your car.
they do, still leaves me w a shite ton of options and i don't understand all the watt math and the channel stuff etc.
Posted on 5/2/25 at 11:19 am to salty1
Salty…. I’m trying to do a minimal upgrade to a 2024 Jeep Wrangler 4 door JL. I just want to plug and play front top dash speakers, roll bar speakers, and put a powered hideaway 10” sub. I do not want to cut or make any modifications to the roll bar. I will be keeping the factory HU and would like to power the speakers (minus the sub) from the HU.
I have researched a bunch on Jeep forums, Crutchfield, etc with very little luck.
Trying not to break the bank and plan on doing all labor / install myself and a buddy who has a lot of experience.
Any suggestions?
I have researched a bunch on Jeep forums, Crutchfield, etc with very little luck.
Trying not to break the bank and plan on doing all labor / install myself and a buddy who has a lot of experience.
Any suggestions?
This post was edited on 5/2/25 at 11:22 am
Posted on 5/2/25 at 11:27 am to salty1
4) Subwoofer (you’ll save money getting a preloaded. Will be built to factory specs of the sub and sound good for the build)
JL Audio CP112-W0v3 -$250
5) Infinity Reference 7005A
Reference Series 5-channel car amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
With the kicker keyloc, you’ll be able to use this amp. I’ve never heard anything bad about them and they’re supposed to be really good for the money. Output mates well with all speakers. $345
You’re at $1,275 for all equipment. Labor will factor in mounting brackets (as neeeed) and wiring. If you pay cash, you should be able to roll out of the shop for about $2,000 (most shops won’t charge tax if pay cash). This system will sound a hundred times better than stock when tuned by installer. Looking at the Keyloc, you’re getting a lot for the money!
JL Audio CP112-W0v3 -$250
5) Infinity Reference 7005A
Reference Series 5-channel car amplifier — 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms + 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
With the kicker keyloc, you’ll be able to use this amp. I’ve never heard anything bad about them and they’re supposed to be really good for the money. Output mates well with all speakers. $345
You’re at $1,275 for all equipment. Labor will factor in mounting brackets (as neeeed) and wiring. If you pay cash, you should be able to roll out of the shop for about $2,000 (most shops won’t charge tax if pay cash). This system will sound a hundred times better than stock when tuned by installer. Looking at the Keyloc, you’re getting a lot for the money!
This post was edited on 5/2/25 at 11:35 am
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