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re: Any mechanics or car experts here? O2 sensor heater circuit
Posted on 3/20/26 at 9:04 pm to sleepytime
Posted on 3/20/26 at 9:04 pm to sleepytime
Excess soot on the exhaust would indicate a rich condition, right?
Posted on 3/20/26 at 9:34 pm to sleepytime
quote:Haven't had the need to do this... but remember watching a youtube mechanic warning about O2 heater circuits on non-OEM being a problem on my particular Toyota engine. Said it would drive your crazy and worth spending the extra dollars for OEM.
Reference the O2 sensor and make sure it's the correct one
Maybe nothing....
Posted on 3/20/26 at 10:04 pm to awestruck
Fords are picky too. People put all kinds of cheap chinesium crap parts in their cars and counterfeit parts are everywhere now too, especially NGK spark plugs.
Posted on 3/20/26 at 10:37 pm to ISEN_AG
How is the wiring? Does it look like they spliced in wires that are not OE? A lot of univeral O2 sensors require a cut and splice. My Jeep had a wire that melted against the exhaust which causd a CEL and not actually the O2 sensor. Worth looking at closely. Bad connection and it wont matter what you replace it with.
If it ends up being the cat, I got a Walker replacement for my Jeep that was reasonable. Rockauto is your friend as they are affordable and seem to avoid fake parts unlike Ebay and Amazon.
If it ends up being the cat, I got a Walker replacement for my Jeep that was reasonable. Rockauto is your friend as they are affordable and seem to avoid fake parts unlike Ebay and Amazon.
This post was edited on 3/20/26 at 10:38 pm
Posted on 3/20/26 at 10:38 pm to sleepytime
quote:
Reference the O2 sensor and make sure it's the correct one. People box swap them and return them to parts stores.
Always inspect the part before you pay. To make sure it’s the right part and to make sure no one pulled a switcharoo. I’ve found used parts in the box.
And you have to watch Amazon parts as well.
This post was edited on 3/20/26 at 10:40 pm
Posted on 3/20/26 at 10:52 pm to ISEN_AG
If you live in a State like LA where you have emission testing requirements,.....you are going spend some $$$ tracking that shite down and replacing parts. If you don't, cut off the catalytic converter, get a programmer and turn off the o2 sensors. Your truck will run better, have more power, and get better gas mileage.
BTW, that model truck and that engine is kinda shitty.
BTW, that model truck and that engine is kinda shitty.
Posted on 3/21/26 at 3:31 am to ISEN_AG
The heater circuit for both rear O2 sensors comes from a single source. You say you cleared codes and the light came back immediately)you also said 30 mi?). This makes sense if you have no 12v source to the sensors. The PCM will "know" it right away and turn on the CEL. You must test to see if you're getting the 12v on the heater circuit when you start it up.
The catalytic converter issue relates to fuel mixture and is a separate issue with different codes. Lean,rich, etc. The CEL also won't come on immediately on a converter issue as it takes mileage for the PCM to test the fuel mixture at the O2 sensors. Bad cats are a common issue;however, they are not to be confused with an o2 heater problem. Again, these are separate circuits..
Step one is making certain you have the code definition correct. This saves you from going down the wrong path. If it is indeed O2 heater codes start by testing for 12v on the heater circuit If you have no 12v you must then find where the circuit has been interrupted. Fuel mixture portion of o2 does not use 12v-typically has a reading under 1.0v and (hunting) up and down under 1.0v while running. O2 has only 1 wire with 12v and that one is for the heater. The other two wires are ground wires-one for heater and the other ground is for fuel mix circuit, Good luck to you!
The catalytic converter issue relates to fuel mixture and is a separate issue with different codes. Lean,rich, etc. The CEL also won't come on immediately on a converter issue as it takes mileage for the PCM to test the fuel mixture at the O2 sensors. Bad cats are a common issue;however, they are not to be confused with an o2 heater problem. Again, these are separate circuits..
Step one is making certain you have the code definition correct. This saves you from going down the wrong path. If it is indeed O2 heater codes start by testing for 12v on the heater circuit If you have no 12v you must then find where the circuit has been interrupted. Fuel mixture portion of o2 does not use 12v-typically has a reading under 1.0v and (hunting) up and down under 1.0v while running. O2 has only 1 wire with 12v and that one is for the heater. The other two wires are ground wires-one for heater and the other ground is for fuel mix circuit, Good luck to you!
Posted on 3/21/26 at 8:19 am to windmill
quote:
You say you cleared codes and the light came back immediately)you also said 30 mi?).
I'll clarify.
When i cleared with my OBD2 during lunch one day, the light came back on immediately upon starting up the truck after work. (3 hrs, but 0 miles apart)
When i unplugged the quick connects on the PCM and reconnected during lunch another day, the code was gone until I drove ~30 miles to Kroger after work, got gas, and restarted the truck again.
This post was edited on 3/21/26 at 8:20 am
Posted on 3/21/26 at 8:25 am to ISEN_AG
Do what windmill says above. Make sure you are getting power the O2 sensor heaters.
Also make sure the wiring is not touching anything hot like exhaust piping. It can melt the wire coating and cause a short. Had that happen with transmission wiring. Kept blowing solenoid fuse. Couldn’t see it until I visually inspected every inch of the wiring. Doesn’t take much wire exposure.
Also make sure the wiring is not touching anything hot like exhaust piping. It can melt the wire coating and cause a short. Had that happen with transmission wiring. Kept blowing solenoid fuse. Couldn’t see it until I visually inspected every inch of the wiring. Doesn’t take much wire exposure.
This post was edited on 3/21/26 at 8:27 am
Posted on 3/21/26 at 9:48 am to greygoose
quote:
BTW, that model truck and that engine is kinda shitty.
I basically had this same truck years ago and traded it in for a larger cab when we found out my wife was pregnant. Only difference was color and that was an '08 with higher mileage.
That thing was solid! The worst repair I did on that thing was replacing the power steering pump pulley.
Posted on 3/21/26 at 10:02 am to UptownJoeBrown
Thanks. I should've be able to do a more in depth look on Sunday.
Posted on 3/22/26 at 1:50 am to ISEN_AG
For purpose of making certain you identify the correct component I suggest using a wiring diagram. I've accessed it and your rear left o2 has:
gray/red
red/lt.green
white/black
violet/white
Right rear O2 has:
gray/red
violet/green
tan/yellow
violet/white
The violet/white wire on each should have 12v with engine running. This circuit comes from fuse#33 in the central junction box near the right A PILLAR. This is a single 15amp fuse.
Again I wish you good luck . I will continue to check back on your progress here.
gray/red
red/lt.green
white/black
violet/white
Right rear O2 has:
gray/red
violet/green
tan/yellow
violet/white
The violet/white wire on each should have 12v with engine running. This circuit comes from fuse#33 in the central junction box near the right A PILLAR. This is a single 15amp fuse.
Again I wish you good luck . I will continue to check back on your progress here.
Posted on 3/22/26 at 2:23 am to ISEN_AG
05’s have notoriously ad engines. If you’re hearing tick tick, get rid of it.
Posted on 3/22/26 at 7:58 am to ISEN_AG
Get you a reliable code rrader that Bluetooth s into your phone. One that gives live info. Drive around and give the readings on both banks to chat gtp (or other similar)
MAF sensor would indicate bad airflow to both sides, and or an oxygen leak somewhere after maf.
Does it rough idle? Sluggish acceleration at low rpm?
Could be a vacuum leak somewhere downstream of the maf.
But you can get all kinds of info from code reader that tells you if your too rich, or too lean etc etc
Im bringing mine for. Vacuum smoke test this weak. Im have zoned into my issue which is just on bank 1, which is hard access because located against firewall, etc
MAF sensor would indicate bad airflow to both sides, and or an oxygen leak somewhere after maf.
Does it rough idle? Sluggish acceleration at low rpm?
Could be a vacuum leak somewhere downstream of the maf.
But you can get all kinds of info from code reader that tells you if your too rich, or too lean etc etc
Im bringing mine for. Vacuum smoke test this weak. Im have zoned into my issue which is just on bank 1, which is hard access because located against firewall, etc
Posted on 3/22/26 at 7:14 pm to windmill
quote:
windmill
quote:
fuse#33
I feel like a moron now. I had previously changed out fuse #32 because it says it is for a whole list of components, including "heated gas oxygen sensors".
I changed #33 today and it was eaten up pretty bad. I'm not sure what the root cause is of the bad fuse, but everything seems to be good for now. I ran the truck for about 15 minutes (just idling), cleared the codes, and ran for longer to pull any other codes. I'm now also reading real voltages on my OBD2 instead of just <=.060v.
The only thing remaining is the readiness test which should go away once I drive for a bit.
Thanks!
ETA: update...fuse blew again the next day on the way to work so I looked at the wiring closer. There was a portion that was riding on the EGR pipe and had black scorch marks. I didnt see any exposed wires so I just pulled them away and zip tied. Drove 62 miles after work, tested, and passed the emissions test!
This post was edited on 3/23/26 at 6:44 pm
Posted on 3/22/26 at 7:39 pm to Lou Loomis
You know it's an 05, right?
That's 20 years, and it's still running pretty well.
That's 20 years, and it's still running pretty well.
Posted on 3/22/26 at 8:03 pm to Lou Loomis
quote:
05’s have notoriously ad engines.
Thats the 5.4 triton.
Look up the 4.2l, post 2000. Supposed to be one of the most bulletproof engines.
I also speak from experience as I had the 4.2l before...Brother bought it new in '08 and I bought from him in '19 before trading it in '22. I know he didnt do anything with it and the only things I did in the entire engine compartment were power steering pump pulley (somehow blew apart 5 minutes from my house one time), ignition coil, plugs, battery, and oil.
This post was edited on 3/22/26 at 8:08 pm
Posted on 3/22/26 at 10:00 pm to ISEN_AG
The 02 sensors literally heat up.
Let the truck sit overnight, in the morning turn the key to the run position without starting it and let it sit there for 5 minutes. Climb under the truck and wrap your hand around each one.
If the wiring and sensors are good, they will be warm.
Let the truck sit overnight, in the morning turn the key to the run position without starting it and let it sit there for 5 minutes. Climb under the truck and wrap your hand around each one.
If the wiring and sensors are good, they will be warm.
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