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Will be epoxying this bar top soon. Any tips?

Posted on 2/6/24 at 10:53 am
Posted by LordSnow
Your Mom's House
Member since May 2011
5509 posts
Posted on 2/6/24 at 10:53 am
Using total boat for a few seal coats, then a flood coat.

Its not done yet, I'm going to fill that gap in the middle and finish sanding it.


Posted by Hermit Crab
Under the Sea
Member since Nov 2008
7167 posts
Posted on 2/6/24 at 11:09 am to
put some plastic sheets below to make cleanup easy. have a heat gun of some sort ready for bubbles. Hopefully those sides will get coated with them being angled back.

Follow the instructions for your epoxy to the letter.
Posted by turkish
Member since Aug 2016
1754 posts
Posted on 2/6/24 at 1:09 pm to
Clean up the bow ties if you can.
Posted by Clames
Member since Oct 2010
16573 posts
Posted on 2/6/24 at 2:32 pm to
Clean up the live edges, loose bark is a no-no for epoxy as, contrary to belief, the epoxy will not hold that stuff in place. Really don't want any bark on the live edge if you plan to really use that bar top.
Posted by BlackPot
Member since Oct 2016
2061 posts
Posted on 2/6/24 at 3:27 pm to
Look up Blacktail Studio on YouTube. Makes great looking tables with epoxy. I'm sure you can get a ton of tips before doing anything that will set you back.
Posted by Hermit Crab
Under the Sea
Member since Nov 2008
7167 posts
Posted on 2/6/24 at 3:30 pm to
quote:

Look up Blacktail Studio on YouTube.


He sells an epoxy training class if you really want to dive deep into it. Him and John malecki on youtube have done a ton of epoxy stuff and made a lot of mistakes people can learn from
Posted by Elusiveporpi
Below I-10
Member since Feb 2011
2575 posts
Posted on 2/6/24 at 4:28 pm to
I second the heat gun. I built a custom ice chest for my boat and didn’t understand why it was forming bubbles. Only after that did I read about the heat gun.
Posted by LanierSpots
Sarasota, Florida
Member since Sep 2010
61678 posts
Posted on 2/6/24 at 8:16 pm to
That is a beautiful top. Please post pics after.

Thinking about doing a similar project with some TV trays.


More of a project for the wife and I but I have never done it so Im looking forward to it

Posted by Jack Daniel
In the bottle
Member since Feb 2013
25472 posts
Posted on 2/6/24 at 8:49 pm to
Did you buy the slab or you have a portable sawmill?
Posted by LanierSpots
Sarasota, Florida
Member since Sep 2010
61678 posts
Posted on 2/7/24 at 6:11 am to
quote:

Did you buy the slab or you have a portable sawmill?




I assumed he bought it and it came in those two big boxes in the picture.
Posted by Jon A thon
Member since May 2019
1658 posts
Posted on 2/7/24 at 6:15 am to
quote:

Clean up the bow ties if you can.


Even if it's just putting some wood glue in the cracks and sanding to make a natural wood-glue/sawdust wood filler. Use Titebond original so it's not dark drying like titebond.
Posted by jmon
Mandeville, LA
Member since Oct 2010
8415 posts
Posted on 2/7/24 at 7:30 am to
Beautiful wood but why is there such a large gap at the main joint? You need to straight line that joint and get a tight fit.
Posted by LordSnow
Your Mom's House
Member since May 2011
5509 posts
Posted on 2/7/24 at 8:58 am to
quote:

Did you buy the slab or you have a portable sawmill?


I drove up to a saw mill in Killeen and watched them saw them. $85.00
Posted by Yewkindewit
Near Birmingham, Alabama
Member since Apr 2012
20037 posts
Posted on 2/7/24 at 9:00 am to
Agree, a joiner would fix that center line. That would bug me if just filled with something that wouldn’t match too well.

Otherwise, a great looking slab that will pop once the clear finish is applied!
Posted by LordSnow
Your Mom's House
Member since May 2011
5509 posts
Posted on 2/7/24 at 9:01 am to
quote:

Even if it's just putting some wood glue in the cracks and sanding to make a natural wood-glue/sawdust wood filler


Yeah, I made the mistake of hand chiseling those in. AND I put them in before I was done surfacing them thinking the router would just plane them smooth. It caused tear out.
So I am adding a couple larger bowties in the bad ones and I'll router out the majority and chisel the edges. 100% using glue and sawdust to fill gaps etc.
Posted by Jon A thon
Member since May 2019
1658 posts
Posted on 2/7/24 at 9:26 am to
quote:

Beautiful wood but why is there such a large gap at the main joint? You need to straight line that joint and get a tight fit.


It's a style. Especially with the bowties. More of a natural edge look.
Posted by turkish
Member since Aug 2016
1754 posts
Posted on 2/7/24 at 10:00 am to
Natural edge =/= poor joinery. And I’m not saying I could do better.
This post was edited on 2/7/24 at 10:01 am
Posted by Jon A thon
Member since May 2019
1658 posts
Posted on 2/7/24 at 10:15 am to
quote:

Natural edge =/= poor joinery


Again, and I'm not arguing if it looks good or not, if you are intending to leave the "rough" gap between the two slabs, then it's not "poor joinery". It's intended to be that way. And lots of people want to utilize the bowties as an aesthetic feature. It would be dumb to perfectly joint both edges and glue them up, then use bowties. Since the bowties would be doing nothing. But leaving the gap as a "crack" like feature along with the bowties makes it look like a natural, damaged piece of wood you saved for a visually interesting table with your woodworking skills. It's very much a style.
Posted by turkish
Member since Aug 2016
1754 posts
Posted on 2/7/24 at 10:21 am to
I didn’t realize you wanted it to look like a natural crack, between book-matched pieces.
Posted by jmon
Mandeville, LA
Member since Oct 2010
8415 posts
Posted on 2/7/24 at 10:31 am to
quote:

f you are intending to leave the "rough" gap between the two slabs, then it's not "poor joinery". It's intended to be that way. And lots of people want to utilize the bowties as an aesthetic feature.


There is so much wrong in this post. You do not use bowtie fasteners to join what you want to be "rough edges". They are meant to join a finished straight edge to another. What he has there will not look good in the end.
To each his own.
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