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Plumbing Question

Posted on 5/30/24 at 12:26 pm
Posted by Tiger328
Member since Mar 2017
793 posts
Posted on 5/30/24 at 12:26 pm
I want to tap into my gas line to run a connection for my Tri Fuel generator. I have a tap coming out with an end cap. I want to install a T where I can still cap it but also have a quick connect for my NG hose for my generator. What size and type of pipe and fittings do I need? This is just a standard meter from Atmos
Posted by LSUDad
Still on the move
Member since May 2004
60744 posts
Posted on 5/30/24 at 12:54 pm to
Pictures help. What size generator?
Posted by Tiger328
Member since Mar 2017
793 posts
Posted on 5/30/24 at 1:06 pm to
I will take a picture once I get home. Champion 10,000/8000 but for NG it’s 8750/7000
Posted by WB Davis
Member since May 2018
2327 posts
Posted on 5/30/24 at 2:37 pm to
Lots of online charts show the required pipe ID given the BTU draw and pipe length.

Unless that line is very long, 1/2" ID should be OK.

Quick connect gas plugs and sockets work well in our setup.
Posted by Tiger328
Member since Mar 2017
793 posts
Posted on 5/30/24 at 3:07 pm to




These are two pictures I just took. Looks like 1 inch. I believe I can shut off gas, bleed it off, unscrew plug, put in a T, cap one and, and have a nipple to a valve on other end that I can ultimately hook my generator to. Is that correct?
This post was edited on 5/30/24 at 3:10 pm
Posted by MikeBRLA
Baton Rouge
Member since Jun 2005
16920 posts
Posted on 5/30/24 at 3:27 pm to
That rust colored vertical piece is a sediment trap. I hope you weren’t planning on uncapping that and using it.

ETA
quote:

I have a tap coming out with an end cap.


what you are calling a “tap”, is a sediment trap.
This post was edited on 5/30/24 at 3:30 pm
Posted by Tiger328
Member since Mar 2017
793 posts
Posted on 5/30/24 at 3:29 pm to
Good to know. That’s exactly what I had planned on doing. So, how exactly do I get natural gas to my generator based off what I have?

Could I just place a T and still have sediment trap go vertical, and run to my quick connect horizontal? I’m assuming the sediment trap has to be at lowest point
This post was edited on 5/30/24 at 3:35 pm
Posted by TaderSalad
mudbug territory
Member since Jul 2014
25110 posts
Posted on 5/30/24 at 4:18 pm to
quote:

Good to know. That’s exactly what I had planned on doing



You can still do it. Disconnect t the vertical pipe and add you a short nipple + T + 4-6” nipple + cap. On the T end, put your shut off valve.
Posted by Themicah86
Member since Jun 2023
2028 posts
Posted on 5/30/24 at 5:30 pm to
Code in Texas calls for a sediment trap on the supply side of an appliance, not at the base of the house. You might consider replacing that Tee though as well, its pretty rusty. Anywhere you can add a Tee in your line you can add an additional drop. You just have to figure out your BTU load on the generator and if the linear footage of your pipe will support the size you will be carrying from that tee.
Posted by baseballmind1212
Missouri City
Member since Feb 2011
3348 posts
Posted on 5/30/24 at 7:50 pm to
Do yourself a favor and paint the whole assembly on the house side of the meter with cold galvanized co.pound (can get it at home depot in spray paint area).


It'll keep your connections from rusting out like they have been doing. Save you some maintenance down the line.
Posted by MrBobDobalina
BRo.LA
Member since Oct 2011
3182 posts
Posted on 5/31/24 at 7:45 pm to
Not sure your location but in Baton Rouge a house is regulated to around 7-11 inches w.c. or barely over a half a pound. Most generators need a higher (2-5 psi) regulator to keep up with the demand of the generator. You'd have to look at the btus for the generator vs. the input you are receiving from the gas company but definitely look into that before you do a bunch of piping that won't work.
Posted by Tiger328
Member since Mar 2017
793 posts
Posted on 6/1/24 at 3:08 pm to


I am in Gonzales (Atmos) and this is my generator requirements
Posted by Themicah86
Member since Jun 2023
2028 posts
Posted on 6/2/24 at 9:42 am to
quote:

Not sure your location but in Baton Rouge a house is regulated to around 7-11 inches w.c. or barely over a half a pound. Most generators need a higher (2-5 psi) regulator to keep up with the demand of the generator. You'd have to look at the btus for the generator vs. the input you are receiving from the gas company but definitely look into that before you do a bunch of piping that won't work.


I think this is going to be your primary issue, if possible teeing off before your regulator would be the best plan. Idk how many things in your house are gas operated but you don't want to pressure drop your system to run a generator. It's a wash at that point.
Posted by baldona
Florida
Member since Feb 2016
22486 posts
Posted on 6/2/24 at 6:32 pm to
Yes I was going to do this in the past and still likely will, but my regulator for my home wasn’t big enough to do a 8000-10,000 genny
Posted by Tiger328
Member since Mar 2017
793 posts
Posted on 6/6/24 at 6:36 pm to


Just wanted to update, I was able to add this today. Generator started up and didn’t starve any other gas from my house (stove, oven, fireplace, heater, water heater). I still need to put a load on it to see how it performs but I think I should be okay
Posted by TaderSalad
mudbug territory
Member since Jul 2014
25110 posts
Posted on 6/7/24 at 5:36 am to
Well done.
Posted by Meauxjeaux
98836 posts including my alters
Member since Jun 2005
43623 posts
Posted on 6/7/24 at 8:47 am to
T and move the sediment trap below the T.

lol then I see the finished pic
This post was edited on 6/7/24 at 8:48 am
Posted by DVinBR
Member since Jan 2013
14654 posts
Posted on 6/10/24 at 3:20 pm to
didn't do a quick connect? would be a lot easier to deal with after a storm
Posted by Tiger328
Member since Mar 2017
793 posts
Posted on 6/11/24 at 4:27 am to
I will be. I ordered one from Amazon and waiting for it to come in
Posted by DVinBR
Member since Jan 2013
14654 posts
Posted on 6/11/24 at 9:17 am to
one thing to be careful about is make sure all the parts you use are either UL or CSA(C US) listed
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