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Message
re: Louisiana Tropical Fruit Gardening - Experiences and Updates
Posted on 12/15/25 at 3:59 pm to TimeOutdoors
Posted on 12/15/25 at 3:59 pm to TimeOutdoors
man you've got to watch those portable greenhouses.
Mine worked great last night with my little heater and thermostat. stayed above 44F all night.
went outside at 10:30 am this morning to go open the greenhouse up and get some ventilation in it and it was 87F inside it. No wonder Frosty melted so quickly.
Mine worked great last night with my little heater and thermostat. stayed above 44F all night.
went outside at 10:30 am this morning to go open the greenhouse up and get some ventilation in it and it was 87F inside it. No wonder Frosty melted so quickly.
Posted on 12/15/25 at 4:34 pm to TimeOutdoors
quote:
I didn’t fare. So well. Temp actually got down to 34.3. I went out to check the gcfi outlet to make sure it hadn’t tripped, and it hadn’t. I ordered another heater and am going to look at a backup source. I did turn the thermostat up a little today (in soil) so hopefully it will kick on quicker and not get as low until I get a backup in place.
Can you post a pic of your setup and the location the greenhouse is placed? It shouldn't be getting that cold with a 1500W heater unless you live somewhere extremely cold. Maybe I can help diagnose what's going on.
This post was edited on 12/15/25 at 4:56 pm
Posted on 12/15/25 at 4:55 pm to TeddyPadillac
quote:
man you've got to watch those portable greenhouses.
Mine worked great last night with my little heater and thermostat. stayed above 44F all night.
went outside at 10:30 am this morning to go open the greenhouse up and get some ventilation in it and it was 87F inside it. No wonder Frosty melted so quickly.
Yes. I've posted about this a few times in here. The sunny day after the freeze is just as dangerous as the cold under the right circumstances. This only matters on sunny days. If the high is under 50F, you can leave it closed and the heater running with your thermostat. If the high is above 50F, you need to leave the door/windows open before leaving for work. It's better for them to sit in the mid 30's for an hour or two until the sun hits them and warms them up than it is to cook them all day.
The worst possible thing you can do is leave it closed with the heater on without a thermostat on a sunny day above 50F. It can very easily pass 120F and cook all your plants. There is no scenario where you should ever have a heat source in a plastic greenhouse without a thermostat controller. Anyone doing that is doomed from the start and you see people do it every year.
For example, it's going to be sunny with a high of 60F tomorrow, but it will be 30F when I leave for work. So before I leave I will open half the windows and leave the doors closed. The heater may run for an hour or two trying to overcome the outside air, but as soon as the sun hits it will automatically cut off and the windows will provide enough ventilation to avoid temps in the 90s.
And honestly temps in the 80s are good for the things we're growing. It warms up the roots and helps the plants metabolize and fight off infection.
Posted on 12/18/25 at 8:47 pm to Tigerlaff
Traded my panache tiger fig and one of my dwarf guavas to my buddy for a Sabara jaboticaba. But this isn't just any sabara: it's a nearly mature branch from an older sabara tree grafted onto sabara root stock. This is going to bypass the typical 10 year wait it takes for sabara to start fruiting. This one should begin fruiting in the next 2 years. As always, bark based soil gets blasted off in favor of mineral based mix.


Posted on 12/20/25 at 1:18 pm to Tigerlaff
Laff, after the last two cold nights we had in BR, my blue Java banana plant started to brown. I planted it around March.
I read that I should cut it back to about a foot tall to protect it from colder winter days. I did that today.
I also read that banana leaves make excellent fertilizer and mulch so I chopped them up and mounded them around the banana base and around my clementine mandarin and two naval orange trees which were planted in early fall.
Would you let me know if I should modify anything I’ve done so far? Thanks

I read that I should cut it back to about a foot tall to protect it from colder winter days. I did that today.
I also read that banana leaves make excellent fertilizer and mulch so I chopped them up and mounded them around the banana base and around my clementine mandarin and two naval orange trees which were planted in early fall.
Would you let me know if I should modify anything I’ve done so far? Thanks

Posted on 12/20/25 at 4:54 pm to 81Tiger
It depends on what your goal is. If your goal is attractive foliage, then yes, you did the right thing by chopping down the unsightly plant. If you are trying to get fruit, you never chop them down to the ground until winter is over and you are sure the whole pseudostem died. Instead you start cutting from the top until the brown dead tissue is gone and you hit green/white tissue. It will shoot new leaves from the middle as the weather warms and eventually flower. From your photo, you can tell that pseudostem was still totally alive. There is no brown tissue at all. But the underground corm is still very much alive and will send up new stems in spring.
And yes, banana leaves make excellent mulch. They are loaded with potassium and they break down fast. There is no better chop and drop mulch than banana leaves. I put all my dead leaves at the base of the banana plants and they do great. Also excellent for cooking, like tomale wraps.
And yes, banana leaves make excellent mulch. They are loaded with potassium and they break down fast. There is no better chop and drop mulch than banana leaves. I put all my dead leaves at the base of the banana plants and they do great. Also excellent for cooking, like tomale wraps.
This post was edited on 12/20/25 at 4:55 pm
Posted on 12/20/25 at 7:29 pm to Tigerlaff
Looks like my loquat flowers survived. Just have to get through Jan/Feb now.
Posted on 12/20/25 at 9:49 pm to audioguy
Nice. None of mine flowered this year. Very weird because every other one I see is flowering like crazy. But I did a lot of transplanting this year and they may be reestablishing first.
Posted on 12/21/25 at 7:58 am to Tigerlaff
How much of the banana trunk do i need to survive to end up with fruit?
Posted on 12/21/25 at 9:27 am to Loup
The more stem the better. There is some luck involved too. The flower moves from the ground all the way up the inside of the stem to the crown. I have had some on the cusp of flowering then the freeze kills the top of the stem. As I start cutting I cut right through the flower on the inside. Just protect as much as you can. After a few years you'll have multiple large stems every year and your odds get better. Also don't cut off the frozen leaves. Let them hang down and shroud the stem for more insulation.
Final recommendation is don't even bother trying any of this with a Cavendish type banana like dwarf Cavendish or gran nain unless you live in central FL or warmer. The cultivars you want are namwah, dwarf namwah, blue java, rajapuri, orinoco (plantain), goldfinger, etc. If you are anything colder than 9a you are pretty much limited to orinoco.
Almost forgot, happy winter solstice. Every day from now on is more daylight. Huge deal at my house with too much shade.
Final recommendation is don't even bother trying any of this with a Cavendish type banana like dwarf Cavendish or gran nain unless you live in central FL or warmer. The cultivars you want are namwah, dwarf namwah, blue java, rajapuri, orinoco (plantain), goldfinger, etc. If you are anything colder than 9a you are pretty much limited to orinoco.
Almost forgot, happy winter solstice. Every day from now on is more daylight. Huge deal at my house with too much shade.
This post was edited on 12/21/25 at 11:52 am
Posted on 12/22/25 at 5:13 pm to Tigerlaff
My Lisbon lemon is confused
Posted on 12/22/25 at 7:51 pm to Neauxla
Actually, not confused! Lemons and limes are year-round bloomers in their proper climates where there is almost constant warm weather without freezes. My key lime is flowering now in my greenhouse. A week or 2 of warm weather like this often causes flowering in the dead of winter.
Now if you see an orange or satsuma blooming strongly in the winter, something is getting truly weird and you need to send me the budwood immediately so I can file the patent before LSU Ag gets their hands on it.
Now if you see an orange or satsuma blooming strongly in the winter, something is getting truly weird and you need to send me the budwood immediately so I can file the patent before LSU Ag gets their hands on it.
Posted on 12/23/25 at 9:22 am to Tigerlaff
First time I've ever had it flower in the winter that I can recall. It's 7 years old.
Posted on 12/24/25 at 10:43 am to Tigerlaff
My satsuma didn’t bloom last spring but decided to bloom and set fruit about 6 weeks ago …loaded with marble size fruit lol.
Guess I just let it be? Or will this affect the next bloom?
Also my dwarf Hawaiian tried to push panicles and flower then stopped. The Pickering is still hanging out unbothered.
Don’t want either to set fruit this year anyways.
Guess I just let it be? Or will this affect the next bloom?
Also my dwarf Hawaiian tried to push panicles and flower then stopped. The Pickering is still hanging out unbothered.
Don’t want either to set fruit this year anyways.
Posted on 12/24/25 at 1:00 pm to DickTater
Would remove satsuma fruit. Too many freezes likely left. Should do it's main flowering in spring.
Dwarf Hawaiian is one of the earliest flowering mangos. Even a touch of cold sends them into bloom. Let it set fruit, then cut about 80% of the whole panicle off when they are pea sized. Then remove the remaining pea sized fruit on the 20% leftover panicle, but do not remove the remaining panicle. If you do, it will just waste energy flowering again. When these grafted trees are young you need to trick them into thinking they've set fruit, but all their energy will actually go to vegetative growth.
Dwarf Hawaiian is one of the earliest flowering mangos. Even a touch of cold sends them into bloom. Let it set fruit, then cut about 80% of the whole panicle off when they are pea sized. Then remove the remaining pea sized fruit on the 20% leftover panicle, but do not remove the remaining panicle. If you do, it will just waste energy flowering again. When these grafted trees are young you need to trick them into thinking they've set fruit, but all their energy will actually go to vegetative growth.
Posted on 12/24/25 at 7:19 pm to Tigerlaff
Funny; my Dwarf Hawaiian hasn’t put on flowers yet. It’s always the first historically.
Meanwhile; Nam Doc Mai has fruit set and the panicles are drying out.
Pickering, Angie, Mahachanok, CAC and Lemon Zest have flowers. Orange Sherbet and CeciLove will push soon along with Glenn.
No signs of life from Dwarf Hawaiian, Bolt, Kesar, Dusari, P-22 or Kathy/K3.
I was talking to someone in Broward who said they are thinking about moving the Florida Mango Fest up by a month or more because the flowers emerged so early that many of the trees will be done producing if they keep the usual date.
Meanwhile; Nam Doc Mai has fruit set and the panicles are drying out.
Pickering, Angie, Mahachanok, CAC and Lemon Zest have flowers. Orange Sherbet and CeciLove will push soon along with Glenn.
No signs of life from Dwarf Hawaiian, Bolt, Kesar, Dusari, P-22 or Kathy/K3.
I was talking to someone in Broward who said they are thinking about moving the Florida Mango Fest up by a month or more because the flowers emerged so early that many of the trees will be done producing if they keep the usual date.
Posted on 12/25/25 at 7:26 am to wiltznucs
Trees are weird. My loquats are the only ones on planet earth without blooms this year. Every other tree in South Louisiana is uncharacteristically loaded. I'm sure your DH is probably just being prudent this year and waiting for Jan/Feb.
I'm really hoping Florida does not get a crazy cold blast. Could be an unbelievable and early mango season.
I'm really hoping Florida does not get a crazy cold blast. Could be an unbelievable and early mango season.
Posted on 12/25/25 at 1:14 pm to Tigerlaff
Well, I got tired of the meyer. I cut that bitch down and chopped it up. Glad to be done with that headache. The combo of trying to grow it inside of my pool cage along with my inexperience with it and the fact that they are a tough starter citrus was too much for me.
It was in a huge pot. I am going to dig up the roots and get that pot ready for a Flame Thrower Palm. I have had much better luck with them and I like them better in the long run. The biggest issue I had with the meyer was the bugs. They were coming in my cage and I just dont care for that. Its pretty clean in side that pool cage and those bugs sucked.
Thanks for the recommendation on the flame thrower. I will post pictures when I find one. I have a feeling I will need to order one from somewhere.
It was in a huge pot. I am going to dig up the roots and get that pot ready for a Flame Thrower Palm. I have had much better luck with them and I like them better in the long run. The biggest issue I had with the meyer was the bugs. They were coming in my cage and I just dont care for that. Its pretty clean in side that pool cage and those bugs sucked.
Thanks for the recommendation on the flame thrower. I will post pictures when I find one. I have a feeling I will need to order one from somewhere.
Posted on 12/25/25 at 7:25 pm to LanierSpots
Got my flamethrower palm on Etsy but the shop closed down. Make sure you get the variant you want. Regular, watermelon, or Hookeri.
This post was edited on 12/25/25 at 7:27 pm
Posted on 12/25/25 at 8:25 pm to Tigerlaff
quote:
Should have sold it. People love those things for some inexplicable reason.
That thing had aids. Nobody wanted it
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