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Posted on 7/24/19 at 7:45 pm to fishfighter
Just laid some floors and I know I will have a problem with cupping in the future. Don't know if it was the right thing, bit planned ahead and had the floors finished to where it would look purposeful.
Posted on 7/24/19 at 8:00 pm to ThermoDynamicTiger
Did they take moisture measurements of the subfloor before installation? Do you have record of temp and humidity levels during the acclimation and post-install periods? Wood is finicky.
Posted on 7/25/19 at 7:14 am to ThermoDynamicTiger
Check your humidity levels in the house & crawl if possible. All S&F hardwoods will cup/move a little season to season the first year. Then they usually settle. Any gaps above 1/16th of inch should be addressed by your installer as they are out of variance
Posted on 7/25/19 at 7:25 am to Motorboat
Yea, I have a paint sprayer, so it shouldn't take too long. The caulking will be tedious. No moisture measurements were taken. The cupping is minor but noticeable. The old hardwood that was already installed in the house got refinished at the same time and has no cupping issues. Strange
Posted on 7/25/19 at 7:43 am to ThermoDynamicTiger
quote:
The house has zero insulation underneath. It was built in 1936.
Foam may be the answer to your cupping problem.
Posted on 7/25/19 at 7:45 am to ThermoDynamicTiger
quote:
Yes, which is why I am going to try a heavy duty water sealant on the underside of the subfloor and caulk the seems along the floor joists. Hopefully, this can lock out the moisture seeping through the sub. Sounds like no one has done this or endorses this idea....
Closed cell foam would apply easier and provide thermal protection and vapor barrier all in one application. 2 birds, one stone.
Posted on 7/25/19 at 8:43 am to notsince98
I am having a similar issue. New wood floors red oak finished on site. Thwre is cupping in on section. Underneath I have an unfinished basement. Right under that spot is my ac unit. The plenum on the unit is about 2 inches from the 1st floor joists. I think there must be moisture transfer that is causing cupping there. The joists and subfloor aren't wet but in that spot they are significantly colder. Any ideas on how to fix this. Vapor barrier? Insulation? Humidity on main floor is between 41-51. In basement i ha e dehumidifers and it hovers between 50-56 in the summer.
Posted on 7/25/19 at 9:30 am to Boss
quote:
I am having a similar issue. New wood floors red oak finished on site. Thwre is cupping in on section. Underneath I have an unfinished basement. Right under that spot is my ac unit. The plenum on the unit is about 2 inches from the 1st floor joists. I think there must be moisture transfer that is causing cupping there. The joists and subfloor aren't wet but in that spot they are significantly colder. Any ideas on how to fix this. Vapor barrier? Insulation? Humidity on main floor is between 41-51. In basement i ha e dehumidifers and it hovers between 50-56 in the summer.
The moisture comes from the hot air. A source for hot air infiltration is probably what you need to find.
Basements are a different ball game. You do not want a vapor barrier between your basement and the main floor. This will create all sorts of problems. You want to stop the hot air/moisture from seeping into the basement. Many times this is done by making sure the rim joists are sealed up well. One great upgrade for any house (should be standard building practice) is to spray foam all the rim joist areas (the areas where joists sit on the rim of the basement foundation walls). This will reduce infiltration and provide necessary insulation. Open cell works great for this unless you live in a VERY cold climate.
The main floor is going to be warmer than your basement most likely. Water tends to travel down in most situations. Water getting to your wood floors on the main level is probably not from wicking up moisture from the basement as the floors should appear to be a warm surface.
If the moisture is coming from the basement up into the floors, I would look for any type of duct leakage that is spraying cold air directly onto the underside of the floor. This is about the only way I could imagine a main floor being colder than the basement.
Other things to look for as far as sources is moisture loves to condensate on ductwork in the summer. Do you have a vertical duct run near this cupping floor? Water could be condensing on the vertical run and then dripping down hidden side of walls into the floor from above.
This post was edited on 7/25/19 at 9:33 am
Posted on 7/25/19 at 3:49 pm to ThermoDynamicTiger
Here is the short you are screwed but not bad there is no finger pointing it’s the nature of the beast is moisture & condensation.
The long if the wood was acclimated but with the ac on you are pulling moisture into the envelope of the house tar paper is ok but not perfect. What is the sub floor?
It’s a moisture issue period. How has the weather changed in the past 5 weeks? If it’s not cupped that bad you may get away with a sand and finish the wood has cupped as much as it will.
I think let it sit in this state then sand and finish it is your cheapest out but this time I would finish with a hard wax oil if it moves it’s less noticeable. Whereas polys oil or water will fracture on the joints hwo won’t
The long if the wood was acclimated but with the ac on you are pulling moisture into the envelope of the house tar paper is ok but not perfect. What is the sub floor?
It’s a moisture issue period. How has the weather changed in the past 5 weeks? If it’s not cupped that bad you may get away with a sand and finish the wood has cupped as much as it will.
I think let it sit in this state then sand and finish it is your cheapest out but this time I would finish with a hard wax oil if it moves it’s less noticeable. Whereas polys oil or water will fracture on the joints hwo won’t
This post was edited on 7/25/19 at 3:55 pm
Posted on 7/25/19 at 4:10 pm to Boss
Your issue might be the lack of moisture if the cupping is in the small area located at the cold air. The cold air is probably pulling more moisture than the surrounding flooring.
Posted on 7/25/19 at 11:58 pm to ThermoDynamicTiger
Install 1/2” thick sheets of foil faced foam board on the bottom of the floor joists and foam all joints. This will prevent water vapor present in the crawl space from wicking into the new flooring via the subfloor which is causing the expansion.
Posted on 7/26/19 at 7:06 am to ThermoDynamicTiger
I had cupping issues last summer. Waited til winter and when the floors went back down I did closed cell foam. No problem this year at all.
Looked into the foil backed foam boards but still expensive and was advised by an inspector friend that he sees many homes with this that does not get kept properly maintained and once it gets old and the seals get broken, it lets moisture in and the problem is worse because the foam then holds it in with no air flow.
For a 2300 or 2400 sq ft area the closed cell was right at 4K. To pay someone else to do the foam boards the quote was actually a bit higher.
Looked into the foil backed foam boards but still expensive and was advised by an inspector friend that he sees many homes with this that does not get kept properly maintained and once it gets old and the seals get broken, it lets moisture in and the problem is worse because the foam then holds it in with no air flow.
For a 2300 or 2400 sq ft area the closed cell was right at 4K. To pay someone else to do the foam boards the quote was actually a bit higher.
Posted on 7/26/19 at 7:37 am to mtcheral
quote:
it lets moisture in and the problem is worse because the foam then holds it in with no air flow.
i was coming to post this.
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