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Started By
Message
Dryer not drying
Posted on 7/29/24 at 9:32 pm
Posted on 7/29/24 at 9:32 pm
Hey guys,
Our dryer stopped getting hot. Did some research and figured it was a buildup of lint in the vent. Took the vent apart and yep, it was pretty full of lint. Reattached it and it still wasn't hot. I then disconnected the vent completely from the dryer and let it run and it got hot. Reconnected it and wasn't hot again. I then went to the outside portion of the vent (underneath the house) while my SO blew the air compressor down it. Found a lot of lint in there as well and did my best to clean it thoroughly. The air was now ripping through with no issues from the air compressor. Turned the dryer on again but it's still not getting warm.
Anybody got any ideas? I'm sure it has to do with the vent if the dryer is getting hot when it's completely disconnected.
Our dryer stopped getting hot. Did some research and figured it was a buildup of lint in the vent. Took the vent apart and yep, it was pretty full of lint. Reattached it and it still wasn't hot. I then disconnected the vent completely from the dryer and let it run and it got hot. Reconnected it and wasn't hot again. I then went to the outside portion of the vent (underneath the house) while my SO blew the air compressor down it. Found a lot of lint in there as well and did my best to clean it thoroughly. The air was now ripping through with no issues from the air compressor. Turned the dryer on again but it's still not getting warm.
Anybody got any ideas? I'm sure it has to do with the vent if the dryer is getting hot when it's completely disconnected.
This post was edited on 7/29/24 at 9:33 pm
8
Posted on 7/29/24 at 9:35 pm to txbd
If electric, you can buy fairly generic rebuild kits on Amazon with the fuses, thermostats bits and elements. Takes about an hour to disassemble and refresh most of the components.
This applies to basic GE and Whirlpool style simple driers at least
$26 on Amazon for example
This applies to basic GE and Whirlpool style simple driers at least
$26 on Amazon for example
This post was edited on 7/29/24 at 9:39 pm
Posted on 7/29/24 at 9:37 pm to txbd
How long is the vent run? Any 90 turns?
If so likely lint built up, going to have to clean it out
If so likely lint built up, going to have to clean it out
Posted on 7/29/24 at 9:43 pm to LSUSports247
Hmm I would say about 10 feet and yes it has a 90 degree down to horizontal turn.
I can feel the air coming full blast from the dryer which is what's crazy to me
I can feel the air coming full blast from the dryer which is what's crazy to me
Posted on 7/29/24 at 9:48 pm to txbd
Get out your leaf blower.
For the vent, not your clothes.
For the vent, not your clothes.
This post was edited on 7/29/24 at 9:51 pm
Posted on 7/29/24 at 10:09 pm to Dallaswho
quote:
Get out your leaf blower.
For the vent, not your clothes.
This is actually a damn good idea!
ETA: 95%Chance the OP’s problem is a burned out dryer heating element
This post was edited on 7/29/24 at 10:26 pm
Posted on 7/30/24 at 6:04 am to RaginCajunz
This is similar to the speed queen as well. OEM part was $58. I bought a volt meter as well from Harbor Freight. In for about $100 and took an hour.
Posted on 7/30/24 at 6:04 am to txbd
I went through this with mine recently. It was the heating element. A kit was cheap and there were plenty of youtube videos on testing it if you want to make sure it's that before you order parts.
Posted on 7/30/24 at 8:01 am to Loup
Changing out the heating element isn't difficult, if you take your time and note how you took the dryer apart so you can put it back together correctly.
It does help to have basic tools and a multimeter. And be sure to unplug the dryer before opening it up.
One note.. get some good work gloves. The bent metal in the dryer will slice your hand quickly.
It does help to have basic tools and a multimeter. And be sure to unplug the dryer before opening it up.
One note.. get some good work gloves. The bent metal in the dryer will slice your hand quickly.
This post was edited on 7/30/24 at 8:03 am
Posted on 7/30/24 at 9:58 am to tdme
quote:
take your time and note how you took the dryer apart so you can put it back together correctly.
take pictures, lots of pictures. my memory sucks so, this is what i do.
Posted on 7/30/24 at 10:29 am to txbd
There can also be some lint built up where the impeller is mounted. It can make the sensor for the heating element prevent the element from heating after just a few minutes. Check that out too.
Posted on 7/30/24 at 10:39 am to Yewkindewit
Possibly the heating element. About 200 to pay someone to fix I think but if it’s free and clear, that’s the likely problem.
Posted on 7/30/24 at 10:45 am to MrJimBeam
the ones i've had to replace the element on, it was pretty obvious, the coil was broken.
Posted on 7/30/24 at 10:51 am to MorbidTheClown
quote:
the ones i've had to replace the element on, it was pretty obvious, the coil was broken.
Same with mine. I was excited to finally get to use that multimeter I bought 4 years ago. What a letdown.
Posted on 7/30/24 at 1:08 pm to txbd
I'd bet money it's the high limit thermostat.
Posted on 7/30/24 at 1:32 pm to txbd
Thermal fuse.
Posted on 7/30/24 at 1:33 pm to RaginCajunz
This is sound advice I would change all those parts gives you piece of mind.
Posted on 7/30/24 at 1:47 pm to tdme
quote:
if you take your time and note how you took the dryer apart so you can put it back together correctly.
I still have an extra screw sitting on top of my dryer. Dryer works though, so I let it be.
Posted on 7/30/24 at 1:49 pm to Napoleon
quote:
Thermal fuse.
That's what I was thinking not high limit thermostat (they might be the same thing?)
Posted on 7/30/24 at 4:55 pm to Napoleon
Definitely change all of those parts while you have apart. If it's a few years old go ahead and do the belt also.
Also, check the thermal fuse and high limit thermostat for continuity before installing. I learned the hard way.
Also, check the thermal fuse and high limit thermostat for continuity before installing. I learned the hard way.
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