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Adding blocking inside the walls (new construction)
Posted on 2/25/26 at 7:48 am
Posted on 2/25/26 at 7:48 am
I've always heard to use 2 x 6 to add blocking before the drywall goes up to help with hanging items (toilet paper holders, TVs, thermostats, towel holders, cabinets, railings, mirrors, etc.) to help add strengthening behind the drywall, and to take away the guess work.
I just saw a video last night where a person recommended using 3/4" plywood instead of 2 x 6 and to go ahead and apply the plywood to all of interior walls (after insulation). The cost is minimal from what they said and truly eliminates any guess work even with blocking.
Is 3/4" plywood strong or thick enough to hold a TV mount (or cabinets -- I would like to think that a cabinet installer will go directly into the studs) as compared to a 2 x 6? Does the plywood also help with any sound deadening as well?
I just saw a video last night where a person recommended using 3/4" plywood instead of 2 x 6 and to go ahead and apply the plywood to all of interior walls (after insulation). The cost is minimal from what they said and truly eliminates any guess work even with blocking.
Is 3/4" plywood strong or thick enough to hold a TV mount (or cabinets -- I would like to think that a cabinet installer will go directly into the studs) as compared to a 2 x 6? Does the plywood also help with any sound deadening as well?
This post was edited on 2/25/26 at 7:50 am
9
Posted on 2/25/26 at 7:55 am to Will Cover
it’s done both ways depending on if wall thickness is makes a difference (the extra 3/4” or 1.5” if you do both sides). That can matter for door frames and windows. Dealers choice
Posted on 2/25/26 at 8:21 am to Will Cover
So you’d sheath the entire interior of your house? Have to cut out all the receptacles and extend them the thickness of the ply? I would not do that. I’d put 3/4” ply in pocket door frames for toilet paper holders and blocking for TVs and call it a day.
Posted on 2/25/26 at 8:21 am to Will Cover
quote:
I would like to think that a cabinet installer will go directly into the studs
Friends in a fancy new house had kitchen cabinets fall off the wall because installer missed the studs...does happen.
A reinforced section of a windowless inside wall makes some sense. You could always access the wall cavity through the wallboard on the back side. The day will come when you need to access wiring in the wall where you hang your electronics,
Posted on 2/25/26 at 8:24 am to Will Cover
I wouldnt do plywood. That will make your walls thicker. If you did do this you would have to do that entire wall or else the sheetrock will be wonky and it is a bit of an over kill IMO
Posted on 2/25/26 at 8:33 am to Will Cover
you're talking about solid sheeting. typically it's done to "make the house stronger".
solid sheeting a house will cost $15k-20k. if you're worried only about blocking, that's a lot to spend.
Also, you typically solid sheet with 5/8 plywood.
solid sheeting a house will cost $15k-20k. if you're worried only about blocking, that's a lot to spend.
Also, you typically solid sheet with 5/8 plywood.
Posted on 2/25/26 at 8:45 am to Will Cover
I did the same around windows so curtain rod brackets are screwed into a stud and not just drywall.
Posted on 2/25/26 at 9:11 am to Will Cover
I would just go with blocking, not like there is really that much guess work with normal studs anyway.
Posted on 2/25/26 at 9:38 am to Will Cover
If there is a wall where you know you need to mount a tv or any large items( pictures, animals, shelving or cabinets go ahead. For things like toilet paper holder or smaller things you don’t need solid walls or blocking because you’ll probably never get blocking in the right spot anyway. But do know this, you can throw away those wall dogs for anything that you will use or will move like tp holders. They will come out. Use something that tightens on the back of the drywall. Like a toggle, but I know there are some newer type toggles that can be used.
Posted on 2/25/26 at 2:44 pm to Will Cover
My first house had the interior walls decked with 3/4” plywood. It was convenient for hanging pictures and such, but most of tape joints of the drywall developed small cracks. My assumption is the movement of the plywood over the seasons caused this. Wasn’t a giant deal, but it was unsightly for an anal retentive fricker like me. 
Also, I don’t think the cost would be “minimal” any more. I think a sheet of 3/4” CDX is around $35.
Also, I don’t think the cost would be “minimal” any more. I think a sheet of 3/4” CDX is around $35.
Posted on 2/25/26 at 4:00 pm to GeauxldMember
people used to solid sheet but not so much anymore. my last house was solid sheeted and it was way better compared to the one I live in now. your doors will have to be special order but it makes a big difference in insulation, sound, and strength of the structure.
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