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Started By
Message
AC will not come on
Posted on 6/13/26 at 7:03 pm
Posted on 6/13/26 at 7:03 pm
Thermostat is Honeywell 5-2. It will not activate the heating or AC. I've set it on 69 but nothing happens. Replaced batteries but no dice. Low battery warning was not on anyway.
Any suggestions? The thermostat screen is lit as it should be, it just won't activate the AC. Won't even run fan when I press fan on.
Any suggestions? The thermostat screen is lit as it should be, it just won't activate the AC. Won't even run fan when I press fan on.
This post was edited on 6/13/26 at 7:04 pm
7
Posted on 6/13/26 at 7:06 pm to prplhze2000
Is the drip pan full of water?
Posted on 6/13/26 at 7:45 pm to prplhze2000
If you have clogged primary condensate drain, and it is overflowing in into the secondary overflow pan with a safety float switch, and the switch is wired to break only the outside condensing unit (not the entire system) when it fills with water, then the thermostat would still be active, even if powered with a C wire, but the inside blower should still run when you put it fan mode.
Check the secondary drain pan for water first, and if not that sounds more like a thermostat issue (loose power wire “R”), bad thermostat board, even a issue with the furnace/air handler control board.
If it was a bad capacitor in the outside condensing unit, the blower inside should still run when put in fan mode. There is also a 3 or 5 amp, fuse on furnace/air handler control board that could be blown. That fuse is same type used in automobiles.
Good luck - it’s hot and humid outside.
P.S. looks like that thermostat is powered only by batteries - change the batteries anyway even if it didn’t show they were low - easy stuff first. Make sure no thermostat wires are loose.
Check the secondary drain pan for water first, and if not that sounds more like a thermostat issue (loose power wire “R”), bad thermostat board, even a issue with the furnace/air handler control board.
If it was a bad capacitor in the outside condensing unit, the blower inside should still run when put in fan mode. There is also a 3 or 5 amp, fuse on furnace/air handler control board that could be blown. That fuse is same type used in automobiles.
Good luck - it’s hot and humid outside.
P.S. looks like that thermostat is powered only by batteries - change the batteries anyway even if it didn’t show they were low - easy stuff first. Make sure no thermostat wires are loose.
This post was edited on 6/13/26 at 7:55 pm
Posted on 6/13/26 at 8:15 pm to prplhze2000
Haze…check all of your breakers…even the one outside by your condenser. Be sure you have the thermostat set to the Cool mode. These sound elementary, but you would be suprised how often one of those is the problem.
It’s too damn hot outside for this, so let me know if y’all neeed my spare bedroom for the night!
It’s too damn hot outside for this, so let me know if y’all neeed my spare bedroom for the night!
Posted on 6/13/26 at 9:14 pm to prplhze2000
Check drain pan. Check to see if inducer motor is starting. If it isn't try tapping it with a something.
Posted on 6/13/26 at 9:45 pm to prplhze2000
Rat eating wires? Did it work yesterday?
I want to preface this response with. I've been drinking some of y'all may or may not know this person and they may or may not be helpful in other regards. But what I have realized is that tire droppings home and garden board is quite the resource on complex problems except for Vince in the Attic sweating water.
This guy has done no research except for his thermostat is not working. There's been many threads about the wife thinks it's going to go down cooler if you keep pushing the buttons. Anyway, I'm just saying there's a lot of tips in here of things that you can look at before you post here, like your drain pan. Anyway. I'm going to quit while I'm behind but this post reminds me of the guy with a brand new circular saw in the box. Okay, a piece of lattice and two 2x4s and I'm thinking he's going to f*** this up. No matters what he's doing.
I want to preface this response with. I've been drinking some of y'all may or may not know this person and they may or may not be helpful in other regards. But what I have realized is that tire droppings home and garden board is quite the resource on complex problems except for Vince in the Attic sweating water.
This guy has done no research except for his thermostat is not working. There's been many threads about the wife thinks it's going to go down cooler if you keep pushing the buttons. Anyway, I'm just saying there's a lot of tips in here of things that you can look at before you post here, like your drain pan. Anyway. I'm going to quit while I'm behind but this post reminds me of the guy with a brand new circular saw in the box. Okay, a piece of lattice and two 2x4s and I'm thinking he's going to f*** this up. No matters what he's doing.
Posted on 6/13/26 at 9:55 pm to Maillard
quote:
want to preface this response with. I've been drinking
Posted on 6/14/26 at 8:09 am to Maillard
Managed to get 1 Hour to come out last night. Drain pan and lines were full.
Posted on 6/14/26 at 8:13 am to prplhze2000
Gonna need to get someone to blow out your lines and put some pan tablets in there to keep in draining. Algae buildup happens in the line. Definitely don’t want standing water in your pan for an extended time. It’ll start creating little pin holes that will rust and eventually leak into your house.
Posted on 6/14/26 at 8:18 am to prplhze2000
quote:
Managed to get 1 Hour to come out last night. Drain pan and lines were full.
I am sure that was costly. I have always steered clear of 1 Hour. A previous company I used to work for utilized them, and after meeting quite a few of the technicians, I had all the information I needed before I found us another company.
But you had to do what you had to do ... which is certainly understandable.
Posted on 6/14/26 at 8:55 am to prplhze2000
I posted this in another on-going thread, but I now place a water leak detector in my HVAC secondary pan (plus the pans under my water heaters, all the attic) to send me an early warning to my phone if water is dripping into the pan. This gives me a heads up to fix the problem, that is clear the primary condensate line, before the HVAC shuts down. These are pretty cheap. I use YoLink but there are others, buy it on Amazon. LINK
You can also add a cup or 2 of vinegar monthly to the primary condensate drain line vent tube and that will help prevent blockages downstream of the vent tube, though not between primary drain pan inside the evaporator coil cabinet and the vent tube - that requires anti-slim, algae, sludge tablets in the primary drain pan as the other poster mentioned. Those last about 6 months. Do it yourself or have a HVAC tech do a once or twice annual maintenance service - cheaper than an emergency HVAC service call - not to mention the inconvenience.
You can also add a cup or 2 of vinegar monthly to the primary condensate drain line vent tube and that will help prevent blockages downstream of the vent tube, though not between primary drain pan inside the evaporator coil cabinet and the vent tube - that requires anti-slim, algae, sludge tablets in the primary drain pan as the other poster mentioned. Those last about 6 months. Do it yourself or have a HVAC tech do a once or twice annual maintenance service - cheaper than an emergency HVAC service call - not to mention the inconvenience.
Posted on 6/14/26 at 9:03 am to CrawDude
quote:
HVAC tech do a once or twice annual maintenance service
This is my approach and I’m quite grateful it’s an option. Don’t even have to think about it.
Also get priority service and a 10% discount on parts (supposedly)
Posted on 6/14/26 at 9:06 am to CrawDude
quote:
water leak detector in my HVAC secondary pan
You'll have to report back on how long the battteries stand up to the attic heat. I would guess they suffer quite a bit but maybe not.
Posted on 6/14/26 at 9:21 am to prplhze2000
"Managed to get 1 Hour to come out last night. Drain pan and lines were full."
--
What was the charge?
--
What was the charge?
Posted on 6/14/26 at 9:29 am to Turnblad85
quote:
You'll have to report back on how long the battteries stand up to the attic heat. I would guess they suffer quite a bit but maybe not.
Good question - I bought the water leak detectors in Sept 2024, they use 2, AAA batteries. But I also have a couple YoLink temperature humidity sensors I use outside that I bought earlier that needed the batteries changed (probably about 2 years old, it sends a low battery warning to your phone).
So when I changed the temperature-humidity sensor batteries I just decided go ahead and change the batteries in the water leak detectors as well but they were still strong according to water leak sensor readouts - I did this 2 days ago.
Bottom line, in my case, I would guess 2 years or longer. But it is a good point - my attic is easily accessible and easy to walk in - at least where the HVAC & water heaters are located, to retrieve sensors - that’s not true for everyone.
Posted on 6/14/26 at 9:42 am to CrawDude
quote:
2 years
thats interesting. I would've guessed a pair aaa's wouldn't last a full summer in a a typical southern attic...moreso from corrosion/bursting than drain.
Posted on 6/14/26 at 11:03 am to Turnblad85
quote:
thats interesting. I would've guessed a pair aaa's wouldn't last a full summer in a a typical southern attic...moreso from corrosion/bursting than drain.
They claim up to 5 years power in their literature on 2 AAA, doubt that in an attic. My attic is not sprayed foamed so it will get up 130 F in the hottest point in summer (I have a temperature/humidity sensor up there as well).
I did check each sensor by placing them on a moist wet paper towel to make sure they worked (they did) before placing them in attic. I also place the sensors on a dry paper towel in each pan. On a couple occasions last summer at peak summer heat (not yet this year) the HVAC pan water leak sensor did send me a “water detected” message and when I investigated it was just a little bit of water condensation that had dripped into the pan, onto the paper towel, from the cased evaporator coil. I fixed that. But the good thing is it demonstrated the leak sensor worked as advertised. But I’m sure the sensors are not waterproof, if they were submerged you’d have to replace them.
This post was edited on 6/14/26 at 11:42 am
Posted on 6/14/26 at 11:16 am to CrawDude
Thats good info. I'm a big fan of water alarms. I have almost 20 sensors scattered around my home. I don't have anything in my attic other than hot air so no need there. Your alarms would be great for someone who has a water heater in attic too (tank or tankless).
Posted on 6/14/26 at 1:48 pm to CrawDude
quote:
requires anti-slim, algae, sludge tablets in the primary drain pan
Crawdude, so using these would require taking the cover off the evaporator unit in the attic?
Posted on 6/14/26 at 3:34 pm to Spankum
quote:
Crawdude, so using these would require taking the cover off the evaporator unit in the attic?
Yes.
Often not difficult, sometimes there are often a few things in the way, like in my case the furnace vent flue, and often the techs seal the seams of the cabinet with a HVAC tape, to mitigate cool air loss, so that needs to be removed and replaced after the cabinet door is put back.
I’ve seriously thought about purchasing one of these as an alternative solution, many of the reviews are good. Simple DYI install.
IFlow AC Drain Line Cleaning
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