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Started By
Message
Tips and best practices for removing drywall, mold remediation
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:16 am
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:16 am
Things you will need:
Heavy duty trash bags
Dust masks
Work gloves
Flat bar
Straight edge/Level
Measuring tape
Skil saw
Oscillating saw
Hammer
Pry bar
Razor knife and extra blades
See thread for where to cut.
Generally, in 4' increments, but if over 6', remove entire sheet.
Lowe's and HD in Covington have plenty of supplies. I expect that will change shortly, just an FYI.
From Stout:
By the way OP, if after all of this you have some mold to deal with and do it yourself, don't listen to the OT and/or people and us bleach and kilz. Use an actual antimicrobial (search microban on ebay) and Zinsser makes some mold blocking primer. The mold you will most likely deal with won't be toxic but you can get a test kit to be sure.
If it is toxic, you may want to get a company like Servpro to come in with their equipment to truly remove all of the mold spores. There are nightmare stories of people not blocking off the original room with the mold and running the proper HEPA filters and mold spores spread throughout the house bothering people for months even though no mold was visible.
I have posted this before for those that DIY on the mold but the best way to go about it is to remove any contaminated drywall and insulation, treat the studs or ceiling joist with an antimicrobial, let them dry out completely, add a mold blocking primer, then put back new insulation and drywall. A mold remediation company will do all of this plus run an air scrubber and dehumidifiers to remove all mold spores. You can try to simulate this using HEPA filters inside air purifiers and a store bought dehumidifier.
From Fishfighter:
First, remove a molding. Past a knife at the top if there is silicone. Use a flat bar prybar. DO NOT PULL THE NAILS. Use something to pull the nails out from the BACK SIDE. Once removed, hose them off and PUT THEM IN THE SHADE to dry. They can be reused.
Once you remove the old rock and insulation on the outer walls, get a bunch of fans, run a genset and let them blow thru out the house. That will help speed up drying studs.
Another thing. Turn off all power. Remove all wall socket cover plates. Put screws in a ziplok bag. Remove all plugs if water covered them and trash them. They need to be replaced.
Carpet and padding, floating wood floors, just rip them up, they are trash now.
Cabinets, remove everything from them. Remove doors, but before doing so, take a piece of masking tape and number them from were they come from. A piece of tape on the cabinet too. Ziplock for screws. You will have to remove them. There should be screws that are screwed into wall studs. If you need to remove the counter top, at each end, there will be screws at the corners. If and when you do remove the bases, you will have to unhook the plumbing. Just turn off the water if there is a water valve. Once everything is removed, take a rag and plug up were the drain is at the wall. arse gas will come in the house if you don't.
There is some much more for recovery. I will be more then happy to help or point y'all in the right direction for the people that plan on doing it themselves.
See thread for drywall removal process.
Heavy duty trash bags
Dust masks
Work gloves
Flat bar
Straight edge/Level
Measuring tape
Skil saw
Oscillating saw
Hammer
Pry bar
Razor knife and extra blades
See thread for where to cut.
Generally, in 4' increments, but if over 6', remove entire sheet.
Lowe's and HD in Covington have plenty of supplies. I expect that will change shortly, just an FYI.
From Stout:
By the way OP, if after all of this you have some mold to deal with and do it yourself, don't listen to the OT and/or people and us bleach and kilz. Use an actual antimicrobial (search microban on ebay) and Zinsser makes some mold blocking primer. The mold you will most likely deal with won't be toxic but you can get a test kit to be sure.
If it is toxic, you may want to get a company like Servpro to come in with their equipment to truly remove all of the mold spores. There are nightmare stories of people not blocking off the original room with the mold and running the proper HEPA filters and mold spores spread throughout the house bothering people for months even though no mold was visible.
I have posted this before for those that DIY on the mold but the best way to go about it is to remove any contaminated drywall and insulation, treat the studs or ceiling joist with an antimicrobial, let them dry out completely, add a mold blocking primer, then put back new insulation and drywall. A mold remediation company will do all of this plus run an air scrubber and dehumidifiers to remove all mold spores. You can try to simulate this using HEPA filters inside air purifiers and a store bought dehumidifier.
From Fishfighter:
First, remove a molding. Past a knife at the top if there is silicone. Use a flat bar prybar. DO NOT PULL THE NAILS. Use something to pull the nails out from the BACK SIDE. Once removed, hose them off and PUT THEM IN THE SHADE to dry. They can be reused.
Once you remove the old rock and insulation on the outer walls, get a bunch of fans, run a genset and let them blow thru out the house. That will help speed up drying studs.
Another thing. Turn off all power. Remove all wall socket cover plates. Put screws in a ziplok bag. Remove all plugs if water covered them and trash them. They need to be replaced.
Carpet and padding, floating wood floors, just rip them up, they are trash now.
Cabinets, remove everything from them. Remove doors, but before doing so, take a piece of masking tape and number them from were they come from. A piece of tape on the cabinet too. Ziplock for screws. You will have to remove them. There should be screws that are screwed into wall studs. If you need to remove the counter top, at each end, there will be screws at the corners. If and when you do remove the bases, you will have to unhook the plumbing. Just turn off the water if there is a water valve. Once everything is removed, take a rag and plug up were the drain is at the wall. arse gas will come in the house if you don't.
There is some much more for recovery. I will be more then happy to help or point y'all in the right direction for the people that plan on doing it themselves.
See thread for drywall removal process.
This post was edited on 8/15/16 at 7:00 am
13
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:20 am to VetteGuy
Hope this isn't for you. I used a big level or carpenters angle to cut along so the cut was straight. Cut a couple of inches above at a time until it is bone dry.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:21 am to VetteGuy
4 feet seems to be the common answer. I suggest learning how to take out the sheetrock in large sections instead of just pounding on it. Makes life a lot easier in the long run. take pics btw for ins.
if water is low may work at 3 feet. get as many fans as you can
if water is low may work at 3 feet. get as many fans as you can
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:23 am to VetteGuy
I would think all of those would be helpful. I think it was Wick yesterday that said that insurance generally wants 2ft, 4ft, or 8ft fromt eh floor depending on the depth of water. I would knock some holes at varying heights until I found dry insulation and then go to the next highest increment.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:24 am to VetteGuy
If you have a piece of 1x4 screw it into the wall level horizontally screw it onto the wall on the bottom. Hold a skill saw against set to the depth of your dry wall and run it along the wall. Do it 2' increments.
This post was edited on 8/14/16 at 1:06 pm
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:26 am to VetteGuy
I had a rental property flood in Monroe back in March. I'm telling you what every contractor or anyone with knowledge will tell you.
If it gets above your baseboards, you might as well ripped the whole 4' piece out. It's actually harder on the person floating the Sheetrock later on if you try to just cut out the wet piece. Sheetrock is not that expensive, making them spend extra time measuring and cutting is.
If it gets above your baseboards, you might as well ripped the whole 4' piece out. It's actually harder on the person floating the Sheetrock later on if you try to just cut out the wet piece. Sheetrock is not that expensive, making them spend extra time measuring and cutting is.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:41 am to VetteGuy
quote:
Best tools for removing drywall
The Mexicans from the Home Depot parking lot.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 10:44 am to VetteGuy
raver knife and a straight edge. Just score it and then knock it out. I hope you and family are okay.
I hate to see so many people displaced.
I hate to see so many people displaced.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 11:06 am to VetteGuy
Posted on 8/14/16 at 11:26 am to VetteGuy
Thanks for posting this. Removing drywall, carpet, and flooring today. In the grand scheme of things I'm lucky. People less than two miles down the road had knee deep water in their house.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 12:38 pm to VetteGuy
Expect to replaced drywall in 4' sections. 4', 8' etc. If you need to cut at 4', cut a little less at 3.5'. The cut need to be clean and straight. Let a professional drywaller who is going to reinstall the drywall make the last cut.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 1:00 pm to VetteGuy
T square is good to have. It costs about 10 dollars and covers the 4 ft section of the sheetrock for a straight line.
Not sure the actual name, but a sink bit allows you to sink in the sheetrock screws to mud over them. Cost about a dollar.
If the water got to the ceilings, get a sheetrock lift. Makes life much easier.
Do not buy cheap sheetrock tape or you will be taping again in a few years.
Make sure studs are dry before placing the rock down. It also doesn't hurt to spray a sporicide prior to sheetrocking.
Cut the sheet rock with a razor knife, if you use a power saw it will get extremely dusty and you will spend hours upon hours cleaning sheetrock dust. A sharp razor will save you lots of clean up time.
Not sure the actual name, but a sink bit allows you to sink in the sheetrock screws to mud over them. Cost about a dollar.
If the water got to the ceilings, get a sheetrock lift. Makes life much easier.
Do not buy cheap sheetrock tape or you will be taping again in a few years.
Make sure studs are dry before placing the rock down. It also doesn't hurt to spray a sporicide prior to sheetrocking.
Cut the sheet rock with a razor knife, if you use a power saw it will get extremely dusty and you will spend hours upon hours cleaning sheetrock dust. A sharp razor will save you lots of clean up time.
This post was edited on 8/14/16 at 1:03 pm
Posted on 8/14/16 at 1:37 pm to VetteGuy
Buy a box of utility knife blades because the gypsum will dull them quickly. Using dywall screws, fasten a 1x4 with the top edge 48.5 inches from the floor surface. Score the wall with the knife along the top edge, then remove the 1x4. Use a pry bar to punch holes 2-3 feet apart a few inches below the score line and pull out the drywall in large sheets below the punch holes. Go back to the score line and where there are studs, cut to the drywall all the way to the stud. Push the remaining drywall above the punch holes in to get the drywall to snap on the score line. Use gloves and a mask.
Posted on 8/14/16 at 1:48 pm to VetteGuy
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