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Started By
Message
Calling 6.7 Cummins owners
Posted on 8/18/15 at 12:24 am
Posted on 8/18/15 at 12:24 am
I recently bought a Ram 2500. It came with the 36k bumper to bumper, 100k drive train, and lifetime drive train warranties.
I just got my first oil change and my fuel filter showed a 25% life left. Afterwards, I asked the guy why they didn't change the filters. He told me it's a $260 charge to change both filters on this truck and that most people wait the full 10k mile life span of these filters. That seems awfully short.
A quick amazon search shows that I can get the filters for around $120.
Anyone have experience changing these, and would performing this change myself void any of the warranties?
I just got my first oil change and my fuel filter showed a 25% life left. Afterwards, I asked the guy why they didn't change the filters. He told me it's a $260 charge to change both filters on this truck and that most people wait the full 10k mile life span of these filters. That seems awfully short.
A quick amazon search shows that I can get the filters for around $120.
Anyone have experience changing these, and would performing this change myself void any of the warranties?
5
Posted on 8/18/15 at 4:47 am to Real Pirate
YouTube is your friend. It will not void the warranty. I would buy oem filters and save all receipts. The maintenance on a diesel is quite a bit more than a gas engine . Learning how to do basic maintenance procedures will save you some money.
Posted on 8/18/15 at 4:54 am to pdubya76
10K and need to change the fuel filter? WTF? I have the 5.9 and change mine about every 20K. 
Posted on 8/18/15 at 5:22 am to Real Pirate
DO NOT NEGLECT FILTERS
By far the most important thing to do on a new diesel is change filters. Change them often with Fleetguard stuff. Do not neglect filters, especially fuel filters. I'd change all filters at every oil change and make damn sure you use oil that meets the spec listed in the manual or you'll be buying some expensive exhaust parts.
Fuel filters are usually easy. I don't remember if that engine has a filter in between the low pressure and high pressure fuel pumps but if it does bleed the pressure before taking it off its under about 100psi. Never pre-fill fuel filters on an electronic diesel. Re-prime the fuel system by cycling the key about a half dozen times leaving it on for 5-10 seconds each time.
Change thy fuel filters and drain the water separators for a long happy life. Or don't change them, and enjoy your inevitable $8000 fuel pump repair bill.
By far the most important thing to do on a new diesel is change filters. Change them often with Fleetguard stuff. Do not neglect filters, especially fuel filters. I'd change all filters at every oil change and make damn sure you use oil that meets the spec listed in the manual or you'll be buying some expensive exhaust parts.
Fuel filters are usually easy. I don't remember if that engine has a filter in between the low pressure and high pressure fuel pumps but if it does bleed the pressure before taking it off its under about 100psi. Never pre-fill fuel filters on an electronic diesel. Re-prime the fuel system by cycling the key about a half dozen times leaving it on for 5-10 seconds each time.
Change thy fuel filters and drain the water separators for a long happy life. Or don't change them, and enjoy your inevitable $8000 fuel pump repair bill.
Posted on 8/18/15 at 7:15 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Buddy of mine just got a 2011 F250. Warranty was out but opted for a 12 month warranty from the dealership. 1 month later his hpfp grenaded to the tune of over $7000. I change my fuel filters (both) every 10k miles, drain the water separator every month, and oil change every 5k.
That's for a PS 6.7, but might help.
That's for a PS 6.7, but might help.
Posted on 8/18/15 at 7:38 am to Ice Cream Sammich
If I had to guess, I'd say ~85% of fuel system failures are due to poor maintenance practice. Do what the manual says.
Just think about what it takes to push fuel through an injector at 30,000 psi, and then think about pushing fuel with sand in it at 30,000 psi through an injector that has nozzles the size of the holes in a coffee filter.
Just think about what it takes to push fuel through an injector at 30,000 psi, and then think about pushing fuel with sand in it at 30,000 psi through an injector that has nozzles the size of the holes in a coffee filter.
Posted on 8/18/15 at 7:44 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Then realize all of that in a Dodge wrapper... 
Posted on 8/18/15 at 7:45 am to Real Pirate
it seems a little high but i know the fords recommend to change the fuel filters ever 10,000 miles. I would not go cheap on the filters, like someone else mentioned, a fuel system repair can be very expensive.
Posted on 8/18/15 at 8:33 am to Clames
Theres no PM strategy to fix that part of it 
Posted on 8/18/15 at 8:44 am to Ice Cream Sammich
quote:
1 month later his hpfp grenaded to the tune of over $7000
What was the root cause?
Posted on 8/18/15 at 8:45 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
Thanks fellas. This isn't my first diesel, I had an 05 Duramax, but this is a night and day difference.
If it won't void the warranty I'll do it myself.
If it won't void the warranty I'll do it myself.
Posted on 8/18/15 at 8:47 am to bayou choupique
If the manual says they're good for 10k than they are. You should get a warning light if suction pressure gets low at the fuel pump.
What's crucial is the water seperator. It has a sensor in it but I believe Ford's WIF sensors have a less than stellar track record of not alarming on water content. Keep that bastard drained.
What's crucial is the water seperator. It has a sensor in it but I believe Ford's WIF sensors have a less than stellar track record of not alarming on water content. Keep that bastard drained.
Posted on 8/18/15 at 8:57 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
The Ford 6.7's have a indicator light that comes on
when you're supposed to change the filters.
Looking at how dirty the filter was the last time I changed it, I will up it to every 10K.
when you're supposed to change the filters.
Looking at how dirty the filter was the last time I changed it, I will up it to every 10K.
Posted on 8/18/15 at 9:03 am to Real Pirate
Yea they're entirely different machines.
It won't void the warranty. Just use OEM stuff. Keep the receipts if you're really worried. If your fuel system shits the bed toward the end of warranty you'll probably get some push back from the dealer and you'll want all the ammo you can get. They're very quick to blame it on either bad fuel or not changing filters because nobody wants to eat that massive bill.
It won't void the warranty. Just use OEM stuff. Keep the receipts if you're really worried. If your fuel system shits the bed toward the end of warranty you'll probably get some push back from the dealer and you'll want all the ammo you can get. They're very quick to blame it on either bad fuel or not changing filters because nobody wants to eat that massive bill.
Posted on 8/18/15 at 9:11 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
They're very quick to blame it on either bad fuel or not changing filters because nobody wants to eat that massive bill.
The Ford dealership repair guy told me, before they're allowed to replace them for free, they have to send the pump to Ford. If Ford finds rust in the pump (an indication gas has been run through it), they will disallow the repair (warranty).
Dealers were doing too many goodwill repairs, evidently.
Posted on 8/18/15 at 9:19 am to VetteGuy
If it ever happens to you and they say it's because you ran water through it that's too easy to fight.
The engine has an OEM WIF sensor and water seperator. If the ECM doesn't display a water in fuel fault and water smokes the fuel system, it's no questions asked the OEM's fault. Same goes for Cummins
and Duramax. Now if you run it with the water in fuel light on you're fricked.
The gas excuse is their way of dodging the water argument. Gas won't rust the fuel pump. its soluble in diesel and will run through it. You'll still smoke the fuel pump, but don't let them say "there's rust in the pump because you put gas in it." That's bullshite. It has rust in it because it had water in it and your junk arse water seperator didn't do its job.
Do not bend over and take "it's your fault" with fuel pump failures. The engine is designed to protect itself.
The engine has an OEM WIF sensor and water seperator. If the ECM doesn't display a water in fuel fault and water smokes the fuel system, it's no questions asked the OEM's fault. Same goes for Cummins
and Duramax. Now if you run it with the water in fuel light on you're fricked.
The gas excuse is their way of dodging the water argument. Gas won't rust the fuel pump. its soluble in diesel and will run through it. You'll still smoke the fuel pump, but don't let them say "there's rust in the pump because you put gas in it." That's bullshite. It has rust in it because it had water in it and your junk arse water seperator didn't do its job.
Do not bend over and take "it's your fault" with fuel pump failures. The engine is designed to protect itself.
Posted on 8/18/15 at 9:29 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
I will keep this info.
It is BS if they are disallowing warranty repairs.
It is BS if they are disallowing warranty repairs.
Posted on 8/18/15 at 9:37 am to VetteGuy
They're not common and it's almost always the result of water in the fuel or hard starts with low oil pressure at the fuel pump.
Keep the water seperator drained and don't do "hard starts" where you cold-crank the engine and load the hell out of it immediately after. Let it idle 10-15 seconds before taking off. Odds are you'll never have an issue.
Its very easy for them to blame it on you when you just say "ok" and break out the check book. Do not do that unless you actually did something stupid.
Keep the water seperator drained and don't do "hard starts" where you cold-crank the engine and load the hell out of it immediately after. Let it idle 10-15 seconds before taking off. Odds are you'll never have an issue.
Its very easy for them to blame it on you when you just say "ok" and break out the check book. Do not do that unless you actually did something stupid.
Posted on 8/18/15 at 9:42 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Let it idle 10-15 seconds before taking off.
That's good advice for any internal combustion engine.
I tell this to my daughter, but she backs out of the driveway at 3K.
Posted on 8/18/15 at 9:45 am to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
DownshiftAndFloorIt
Thank you, sir
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