re: The second pirogue build is on

Yes I know but just never seems to get any better.

Hey Fish

I am sorry to here about your brother's health. I wish you and yours the best!

Does the LSU football game cause any issues for people selecting date for a build? The first weekend in October has been mentioned. That is an away game time is not determined.

Is the date set, Oct 3 works for me.

Thanks

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Put me down for $100 worth of tickets and I can sell plenty as well

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I was wanting to catch the next build Fish, but I will have to back out if it's the third. Wife started work so we are taking turns taking off work and bringing her mom to chemo in Shreveport, and I have the first Friday of each month through October. I will just catch the next one hopefully. Kinda feel selfish though if I try to find someone else to do it so I can come and I just can't do that.

I'd say that's a worthy excuse.

Thanks. Yeah it's a rough deal. Wife lost her dad 3 years ago and now her mom has recurrent cervical cancer with mets at 46 yrs old. Makes it hard for me to whine about missing something.

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It's coming together nice fish! If you sell any more of those plans, I'm interested.

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email me at pirougebuild@gmail.com with your mailing info.

No. Got a ton of things going on. Maybe it would be better in late Oct around the last weekend there or first weekend in Nov.

People should of by then should have there duck blinds up or have a deer tied to a tree.

A 13'6" will hold two 200 lb guys if they know how to ride in a pirogue.

Update #9. I was trying to keep the instructions together, but for some reason I couldn't. Oh well.

I left off installing the bottom. That is done. Rub rails were next. Cutting a 1x4x16', set your fence on a table saw and your blade set at 20 degrees. Center it and rip it. Using a sander, sand and clean the 20 degree cut.



After, take one board and many clamps. Start at one bow stem and clamp it in place. Extend the other edge to were once you will plane it flat that it will clear the top of the bow stem. About 1/4of a inch. SLOWLY start bending it inward and clamp little by little. At about 20 inches, you want the top inside part of the rub rail to be flush with the top of the side of the boat. Once you get to the other bow stem, repeat as you did to the other side. Mark the ends to match the tip of the bow stem.

NOTE! Make sure that the 20 degree cut is at the bottom with the angle slopping inward. Same for the other side.

Remove, apply glue and clamp back in place.

Note! If you are going to use nails, I always cut them to were they are about 3/4" long. It's going to take about 40- 50 nails for both sides.

I used screws that will be removed.





Notice the rise at the bow stem/ rub rail. That is the 1/4". That will be plane level later.



Note! At the bow stems. I predrill and set a #12 brass screw that is 2" long once the rub rail in nailed in place.

Cut the ends of the rub rail extended a little pass the bow stem edge. Repeat what you did to the other rub rail and install.

Note! Match the top of both rub rails at the bow stems.







Will up date later.

Update #10. Installing the bow stem caps.

Using a piece of 1"x6" for backing and a piece of the 1/4" plywood that was cut from the bottom scrape.

First, I cut the rub rails even extending just pass the bow stem.



Then I plane a surface area from the tip back towards the center just enough, about 16" that is level across. Then I measure fro the tip back to the center 14" and make a mark on the top of the rub rail. Repeat to other side to keep things even.

Then I lay a piece of 1x6 across at that mark of 14" and mark/trace from inside of the side of the boat.




You should have this.



Next set your circle saw blade to the angle of the inside of the side.




Cut from one side and then cut from the other and place it to fit in between the sides.



Next take a scrape piece of the 1/4" plywood. Place it to were it butts the backing 1x6 extending over the bow stem. Mark and the cut.

NOTE! when cutting this piece, cut it no less the 1/4" larger.



Remove the 1x6 piece and apply glue to the two sides that come in contact with the sides and apply glue to were the 1/4" plywood comes in contact. Apply glue to the top of the rub railing were the plywood will cover. Clamp the backing piece to the plywood when it is in place and then nail the plywood to the railing.



Repeat to the other side.

NOTE! It will be a different size and angle cut.

Plugging all the screw holes in the railing.



More to come.

Update #11. Once the handles are installed, plane the edges even with the rub rails.

Pictures that I didn't get was planning the bottom to the sides. Start at the splice and plane towards the bow stems. Be careful not to plan into the sides. Sand even. Then start pudding everything and sand down.

NOTE! When applying glue to everything use as much to cover all wood surfaces. Try to clean all dripping as you build. This will save you sanding time.

NOTE! Never mix any glue till you are set and ready to do the job. Never mix more then you need. You can always mix more!

Well this puppy is about 99% finished.










It's a stain grade build, but I'm still hanging on the fence of just painting it. It took a lot out of me.

No nails were used thru the build. That is a lot of extra work, but well worth it. Plugs were made out of 3/16 wood dowel sticks that were 48" long. Used 7 of them. Each dowel was precut a hair over a inch long.

For second prize, I was going to do a one on one build, but I don't think I have it in me.

So, I will be buying maybe a Browning .22 pistol for that or something like that.

As far as a get together build. It has got to be late Oct. No way I can do the heat again.

Oh, not even a beer was drunk thru the build.

Thanks BP. I will call him later today to find out if he needs any meds. The doctors told him that he will have to keep doing chemo for the rest of his life. Even tried to talk him into stop treatments.