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Hot water heater question
Posted on 2/6/26 at 9:05 am
Posted on 2/6/26 at 9:05 am
17 year old gas hot water heater has started passing what look like fine particles of rust. No leaks or strange sounds, but thinking it's time to change it. To the extent it matters, GE brand, 40 gallons, and natural gas. No issues with cold water.
Any disagreements or other thoughts?
Any disagreements or other thoughts?
Posted on 2/6/26 at 9:18 am to 385 Tiger
Rheem PROG40.
Call your nearest LCR.
Thank me later.
Call your nearest LCR.
Thank me later.
Posted on 2/6/26 at 9:25 am to LOL
This or the short variant of the same thing are what I was going to get. Need to confirm my spacing. What makes it so great?
Posted on 2/6/26 at 9:29 am to 385 Tiger
Tank type heaters are a solid and reliable technology that really has not changed much in 50+ years. Quality parts and simplicity is what makes all of the big tank manufacturers great (Rheem, AO smith, Bradford White). Really can't go wrong with either but just make sure to buy from a supply house and not a big box store like Lowes or HD. Plastic vs brass parts, etc.
Also, it comes with a Magnesium anode rod by default. If you have soft water that is perfect, roll with that. If you have hard water, purchase an Aluminum anode rod and put it in. They are only about $30-40
Also, it comes with a Magnesium anode rod by default. If you have soft water that is perfect, roll with that. If you have hard water, purchase an Aluminum anode rod and put it in. They are only about $30-40
This post was edited on 2/6/26 at 9:39 am
Posted on 2/6/26 at 9:37 am to 385 Tiger
quote:
17 year old gas hot water heater has started passing what look like fine particles of rust. No leaks or strange sounds, but thinking it's time to change it. To the extent it matters, GE brand, 40 gallons, and natural gas. No issues with cold water.
Any disagreements or other thoughts?
since it is a gas unit I would probably just change it. electric I would probably rebuild.
Posted on 2/6/26 at 9:53 am to LOL
quote:
buy from a supply house
AO Smith/State water heaters have their main assembly plant near Nashville in Ashland City TN. They also manufacture for other brands. As long as you avoid tankless and computer-controlled units, you will find them highly reliable. Their distributorship model includes volume rebates which may give you some room for negotiation if you shop at a high-volume supply house. Or just let your plumber shop for you. Refreshingly, hot water heaters are one appliance where it's easy to find made-in-America units.
Posted on 2/6/26 at 10:15 am to 385 Tiger
quote:
17 year old gas hot water heater has started passing what look like fine particles of rust.
When was the last time you flushed it? Ours did the same, flushed it, lot of sediment came out. Put a large sediment filter on the cold water line when I reinstalled it with new plumbing, anode rod, and a pressure arrester. No issues since and the municipal water is bad when it comes to rust and sediment presence. If still looking to replace then definitely go to a local plumbing supply shop, I got a better Bradford-White NG 60-gallon for the same as it would have cost to get a lower quality Rheem version. The stuff carried at big box stores always has cost cutting on parts that may be inconsequential to performance but always reduce longevity.
Posted on 2/6/26 at 12:37 pm to Clames
I've never flushed it. It's been squirrelly in the past, but no significant issues.
Posted on 2/6/26 at 4:42 pm to 385 Tiger
quote:
I've never flushed it. It's been squirrelly in the past, but no significant issues.
we replaced ours not long ago, it was ~20 yrs old, and the plumber told us we should flush it annually ...or more often depending on how hard the water is
Posted on 2/6/26 at 5:25 pm to 385 Tiger
If it’s easy to access, replacing is so easy with it being gas.
Lowes has a Sharkbite kit that’s like $50-75 to attach the water lines. You’ll need a pipe cutter and something to clean the lines well. Screw the lines into the top of the water heater then slip the Sharkbite lines on the water lines and then connect the gas line.
The vent is screwed into the top of the heater. Then screw the drain line into the pressure relief valve.
My son helped me get our new into our attic and into place.
You’ll need to completely drain the old one.
It took me less than an hour.
Lowes has a Sharkbite kit that’s like $50-75 to attach the water lines. You’ll need a pipe cutter and something to clean the lines well. Screw the lines into the top of the water heater then slip the Sharkbite lines on the water lines and then connect the gas line.
The vent is screwed into the top of the heater. Then screw the drain line into the pressure relief valve.
My son helped me get our new into our attic and into place.
You’ll need to completely drain the old one.
It took me less than an hour.
Posted on 2/6/26 at 10:00 pm to 385 Tiger
Just had a leaking lower heat element changed on a 5 year old electric a o smith that had never been flushed. Drained it. Water was milky looking. Heating element already had some hardened sediment on it.
Posted on 2/9/26 at 7:45 am to Clames
I removed a 35yo water heater from my mil house a couple months ago. Never in its life been flushed but when I looked inside, it only had maybe a half gallon of shite at the bottom. I figure it would be 1/3 full or something. I'll still flush my own every few years but it was still interesting.
Posted on 2/9/26 at 10:59 pm to Turnblad85
quote:
Never in its life been flushed but when I looked inside, it only had maybe a half gallon of shite at the bottom. I figure it would be 1/3 full or something. I'll still flush my own every few years but it was still interesting.
Local water quality and usage habits are everything. Lot of people keep their's cranked to max temp all the time, no idea what they are doing.
Posted on 2/10/26 at 10:36 am to 385 Tiger
quote:
17 year old gas hot water heater has started passing what look like fine particles of rust
Why do you assume it's the water heater? If it's 17 years old = you probably have an older home, it could be the galvanized pipes that are creating the rust (assuming that's what you have of course).
As the other poster mentioned, replacing your anode with aluminum might be a good starting point. Just be very very very very careful when taking it off. It's a lot of pressure built up in there with very hot water so be sure to depressurize it first.
Posted on 2/10/26 at 3:08 pm to idlewatcher
Thanks. But I replaced it on Sunday. It was time. As I was removing it, I noticed that lots of things just appeared to be close to coming apart. So it was time. And I've had no more fine rust in my hot water. Thanks all
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