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Message
Mono backing for braid on spinning reels
Posted on 8/12/25 at 10:24 pm
Posted on 8/12/25 at 10:24 pm
Do you guys do this? Had someone tell me I needed to do this after I got spooled by a Jack the other day. It was not a full reel of braid so that was a problem, but I don’t see how 30 pound mono isn’t gonna pop if 30 pound braid did!!
Posted on 8/12/25 at 10:34 pm to tigerbait1970
The backing is so that the braid doesn’t spin on the spool, and yes I do use backing on all my spinning reels. Not sure if it would have made a difference in your situation.
ETA: it also allows you to not use as much braid.
ETA: it also allows you to not use as much braid.
This post was edited on 8/12/25 at 10:36 pm
Posted on 8/12/25 at 10:37 pm to tigerbait1970
Always put a small amount of mono or copolymer before spooling on your braid on spinning reels to eliminate slipping. On bait casters it’s a little known secret to spool some braid first which makes the spool spin faster initially if you are going to main spool with mono or copolymer. 15 years professionally fishing and this was the standard but I’ve been out ten years or so maybe it’s changed as it often does. But this was pretty much what everyone did 10 years ago when I cared enough to to be that meticulous.
Posted on 8/13/25 at 12:20 am to tigerbait1970
It's purpose is so you can fill up your spinning reel without having to buy a spool of braid everytime you restring your reel. Depending on the size of your reel's spool, some 3000 size spinning reels can hold 50-100yds of mono then you can fill the rest with one 150-200yd spool of your goto braid.
Filling it up to capacity helps with casting distance and all that and like others said prevents the braid from slipping. If you do buy 300yd spools of braid and want to use all braid then when you tie the braid to the spool just put some electrical tape over the knot and make sure it's spooled up tightly to the spool to prevent slipping
Technically your goal is to have enough braid on the spool so that you'll never have a fish get down to the backing unless it's a fish you don't have any shot of landing
Filling it up to capacity helps with casting distance and all that and like others said prevents the braid from slipping. If you do buy 300yd spools of braid and want to use all braid then when you tie the braid to the spool just put some electrical tape over the knot and make sure it's spooled up tightly to the spool to prevent slipping
Technically your goal is to have enough braid on the spool so that you'll never have a fish get down to the backing unless it's a fish you don't have any shot of landing
Posted on 8/13/25 at 4:57 am to tigerbait1970
It's gonna pop if..
You lose all the function of the drag when it reaches the end.
Most use mono backing so as not to have to use so much braid...a fully spooled reel of mono/braid and you may very well have landed that fish.
quote:
I got spooled by a Jack the other day. It was not a full reel of braid so that was a problem
You lose all the function of the drag when it reaches the end.
Most use mono backing so as not to have to use so much braid...a fully spooled reel of mono/braid and you may very well have landed that fish.
Posted on 8/13/25 at 6:08 am to tigerbait1970
quote:I use backing on all reels unless it's one of those really low capacity spools. I don't like waisting premium line. I always have a few large spools of dirt cheap mono on hand for this.
Do you guys do this?
Posted on 8/13/25 at 6:33 am to tigerbait1970
Mono at the bottom of the spool offers the benefits stated by others and also preventing the braid from "cinching down" onto itself from the top of the spool into the braid at the base of the spool if heavy tension is applied... i.e. after fighting a bull red
Posted on 8/13/25 at 6:48 am to tigerbait1970
Its a requirement as far as I know. I have had bluegill and shellcrackers who fought hard enough to make the full spool of braid slip on an ultralight spinning reel....start with 10 pound of cheap mono and a grander marlin can't do it. Some reel manufacturers claim it is not necessary on their spools but every spinning reel I own has proven their claims to be false.
If you are getting into the backing on a reel that has backing on it you are flirting disaster no matter what type of line it is. As the spool diameter shrinks from line disappearing with a running fish drag tension increases exponentially...it is far easier to strip line from a reel with a full spool than it is on a reel that has already seen half the line spooled off by a running fish....it is a matter of geometry that applies to any sort of pulley system. Most anglers compound this issue by tightening the drag when the line gets scarce....horrible idea....what was 28 pounds of tension on a full spool is about 35 on a half spool and cranking down on the drag to stop a run away fish at that point is going to break the line if the drag is properly set up in the first place. There is also the issue of drags getting tighter with heat generated....even with small fish pulling line against the drag creates heat...it is noticeable with a smoker king or a sailfish who is pissed at the world. This is why palming a spool is necessary and should only be done with experience....it temporarily increases drag with the hope it will cause the fish to change direction or become frustrated and focus on that instead of escaping...it is not meant to stop a fish...it is akin to a sucker punch thrown at an opportune time to throw your opponent off their game.
If you have 30 pound braid with thirty pound mono as backing and get into the backing on a reel with a properly set drag the tension on the line is increasing as the spool diameter of all reels diminishes. Spinning, revolving spool or fly reel this mathematical fact applies. If the reel was set at 30 pounds because the line on it is thirty pounds when half the spool is ripped off or even as a result of casting a bait out the drag is exponentially higher than 30 pounds as a result of diminished spool diameter. This is also why experienced light tackle big game fisherman will palm a reel....it increases the drag tension when the spool is closer to full on a reel with a properly set drag...which means the right amount of tension when the spool is at its typical fish fighting diameter, not its full spool diameter.
If you are getting into the backing on a reel that has backing on it you are flirting disaster no matter what type of line it is. As the spool diameter shrinks from line disappearing with a running fish drag tension increases exponentially...it is far easier to strip line from a reel with a full spool than it is on a reel that has already seen half the line spooled off by a running fish....it is a matter of geometry that applies to any sort of pulley system. Most anglers compound this issue by tightening the drag when the line gets scarce....horrible idea....what was 28 pounds of tension on a full spool is about 35 on a half spool and cranking down on the drag to stop a run away fish at that point is going to break the line if the drag is properly set up in the first place. There is also the issue of drags getting tighter with heat generated....even with small fish pulling line against the drag creates heat...it is noticeable with a smoker king or a sailfish who is pissed at the world. This is why palming a spool is necessary and should only be done with experience....it temporarily increases drag with the hope it will cause the fish to change direction or become frustrated and focus on that instead of escaping...it is not meant to stop a fish...it is akin to a sucker punch thrown at an opportune time to throw your opponent off their game.
If you have 30 pound braid with thirty pound mono as backing and get into the backing on a reel with a properly set drag the tension on the line is increasing as the spool diameter of all reels diminishes. Spinning, revolving spool or fly reel this mathematical fact applies. If the reel was set at 30 pounds because the line on it is thirty pounds when half the spool is ripped off or even as a result of casting a bait out the drag is exponentially higher than 30 pounds as a result of diminished spool diameter. This is also why experienced light tackle big game fisherman will palm a reel....it increases the drag tension when the spool is closer to full on a reel with a properly set drag...which means the right amount of tension when the spool is at its typical fish fighting diameter, not its full spool diameter.
Posted on 8/13/25 at 8:45 am to AwgustaDawg
I put a strip of duct tape on the spool before i put the braid on. It keeps the braid from spinning. Ive never had braid spin because there was not mono backing.
Posted on 8/13/25 at 10:02 am to tigerbait1970
quote:I have a different question about braid, I've never used it. Don't feel it's worthy of a separate thread since tigherbait started this one. I regret the possible hijack.
Mono backing for braid on spinning reels
I've been fishing Mangrove Flats & docks since 1988 using 6lb mono to 30lb mono leader. Spider hitch the 6lb, Uni knot the 30lb leader to Spider hitch. Right or wrong this is what I know & I'm comfortable with. Targeting Snook & Redfish.
When tying my leader, Braid to Fluorocarbon. Say I'm using 6lb braid can I do away with the Spider hitch & just Uni knot 6lb Braid to 30lb Fluorocarbon?
Posted on 8/13/25 at 10:17 am to AwgustaDawg
quote:
I have had bluegill and shellcrackers who fought hard enough to make the full spool of braid slip on an ultralight spinning reel
As said you can just put one rap of electrical tape and it does the same thing. You just need a little friction to hold the braid in place.
IMO its just a waste of time OP, call me crazy but the fewer knots in the middle of line the better to me. If you want to do it to save braid cost, I do understand. Its just not worth my time personally. If its a heavy duty reel with major drag into play I'm not trusting cheap mono, a knot, etc. on a big fish. That extra cost in the line is worth it to me.
You can't do everything perfect every time, sometimes the fish wins. Those big jacks will just spool you sometimes when you aren't targeting them, especially if you are just slot red or trout fishing with a 2500 or 3000 level spinning reel.
Posted on 8/13/25 at 10:40 am to wrongRob
quote:You can, but the double uni is at best the 3rd best knot for that purpose. The best is FG and only slightly worse is the Alberto. I have braid on all my spinning setups and I use FG if setting up in advance and Alberto while on the water.
When tying my leader, Braid to Fluorocarbon. Say I'm using 6lb braid can I do away with the Spider hitch & just Uni knot 6lb Braid to 30lb Fluorocarbon?
Posted on 8/13/25 at 12:26 pm to AlxTgr
quote:Thank you I've watched it and several others.
AlxTgr
Posted on 8/13/25 at 12:32 pm to tigerbait1970
Ive never added backing to my spinning reels. Havent had any issue.
Posted on 8/13/25 at 12:43 pm to wrongRob
quote:
When tying my leader, Braid to Fluorocarbon. Say I'm using 6lb braid can I do away with the Spider hitch & just Uni knot 6lb Braid to 30lb Fluorocarbon?
I would caution against 6lb braid. It will be difficult to tie knots with. Using a braid closer in diameter to the 6lb mono youre used to with give you both added mainline abrasion resistance and an easier time tying knots.
I would use 15lb suffix 832 for your application. Maaaaybe 10lb.
And for my mainline to leader connection know, a tension-less FG is my go to but technically the PR knot is the strongest out there. It just requires a bobbin.
Posted on 8/13/25 at 12:56 pm to The Last Coco
quote:I appreciate it!
The Last Coco
Posted on 8/13/25 at 1:49 pm to baldona
quote:
You can't do everything perfect every time, sometimes the fish wins. Those big jacks will just spool you sometimes when you aren't targeting them, especially if you are just slot red or trout fishing with a 2500 or 3000 level spinning reel.
Yeah I know that now. It happened so fast!! I actually thought I lost the fish at first, but he must have swam at the boat right after the bite, then decided to take off toward the bow and that's when the line started going, I tried gaining line, but no luck and by the time I decided to start my motor and run him down, out of line and gone!!
Posted on 8/13/25 at 2:21 pm to wrongRob
6# braid is going to really suck and you will need tons of it to fill a 2500-3000 spool. 20# 832/Slick8 is plenty small enough.
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