re: F4U Corsair Models (Photo Heavy)

My dad was part of the VMF-222 from ‘42-‘45 he was a plane Captain working on the Corsairs

You’ll need more than just thin Tamiya.



Thin Tamiya will absolutely cloud the clear parts from some kits. Thin Tamiya also will melt plastic.

Always test a small scrap of clear part with the glue you want to use. Even scuff up the scrap part and let the glue in there to see if it will cloud the clarity of the part.

Tamiya thin does clear out some minor scratches in clear parts caused by minor abrasion. Be careful here.

It all depends on the manufacturer of the clear part on how the part will react to the glue.

If the scrap glass gets foggy with Tamiya, switch to Testors clear parts cement.

Always have CA glue. Use it in major wing/fuselage attachments. Also use it to fill gaps between those seams. Let harden. Sand out.

Last but not least, Revell Contacta has the best parts of Tamiya thin and CA. The applicators needle gives it the nod in tight spots.



Some of the smaller items I couldn’t live without are tweezers, file and a sharp exacto.

I don’t have Facebook but I’ll try and track that info down.

I assume plane Capt had a totally different perspective than the pilot.

Pilot probably has flying photos.

Capt probably has photos of cockpit interiors, bomb ordinance, gun wells, bomb bays - all sorts of cool behind the scenes type of photos.

I’m always looking for those type of photos for reference material when building my models.

Thanks.

I used Elmer’s clear for the first time to glue those damn decals down on that beat up Profile Kit.

I’m semi ashamed that I resorted to that.

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You will see why the Japanese called them “Whistling Death”.

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I saw a Corsair perform a split S and high speed pass right over our heads. I had forgotten how loud that supercharged 2800 Wasp was. It was an FAU-4B version with the 4×20mm cannons instead of the 6×.50s.

We built several Corsair cockpits and crashed version for a film called “Devotion”. Also utilized 4 real ones … was awesome to see them land and take off up close. And to sit in a few

I need to learn how to post photos so can share

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I used Elmer’s clear for the first time to glue those damn decals down on that beat up Profile Kit.

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Never have tried that. See if you can find this:



So many uses in modeling. I am not ashamed to say I've used it on old decals. But I hardly ever use kit decals. That stuff is perfect. I use it as a gloss coat pre-decals, but also after decaling before I start weathering process to seal and protect. It will take oils, thinners, etc after it dries.

It's discontinued, but if you can find it cheap, get it. And let me know if you do because I want more, too. A bottle will last a long time.

Oh yeah...I've watched his work - great stuff. He does a lot of oil work on his models. Similar to what I try to do. Like on my Tamiya 1/48 F4F Wildcat, below:



Doogs Models is awesome, too. He is the one that turned me onto the black basing method.

This is one of his many videos on that subjet:

Black basing vs pre-shading

Thanks man. I paint with an Iwata airbrush. Only use a brush on fine details in the cockpit. Now all that weathering was done with oils - the dot method using dots and lots of thinner. Very very easy. Also used the black basing method on this - the tonal differences really popped and its much easier and realistic than just doing panel pre-shading panel lines. A little hint - I didn't use any wash to highlight the panel lines - the black from the primer/black basing took care of that.