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BR HVAC Recommendations
Posted on 8/5/23 at 4:37 pm
Posted on 8/5/23 at 4:37 pm
100F outside and my unit isn't pulling it down lower than 78F right now, i cleaned the condenser coil and see no difference, i know the 20F rule between the outside and the inside, but i feel a 4 ton unit on 1600sqft should do better than that on a house built in 2017, and i don't remember having this issue last year (albeit it wasn't getting up to 100 last year), the unit doesn't really pull the house down to 72 until at night when then outdoor temp gets into the 80s and the heat stored on the house finally drops
i really just want someone to check the refrigerant to make sure it's where it needs to be
i really just want someone to check the refrigerant to make sure it's where it needs to be
Posted on 8/5/23 at 4:39 pm to DVinBR
sheeettt.
I got two brand units and they are struggling to keep it 74 in the house right now
it's hot
I got two brand units and they are struggling to keep it 74 in the house right now
it's hot
Posted on 8/5/23 at 4:49 pm to DVinBR
Comfort Control Heating and Air. Been using them for almost 20 years
Posted on 8/5/23 at 4:51 pm to DVinBR
quote:
i know the 20F rule between the outside and the inside,
Don’t listen to anyone who says this.
Posted on 8/5/23 at 5:27 pm to DVinBR
A 4-ton unit for a 1600 sq ft house (400 sq ft/ton) that is only 6 years old seems over-sized, and if so it seems as though should should maintain your set point temperature even this this extreme heat. Does suggest to me you have either air flow issue and /or refrigerant issue, unless you have a massive leaky, poorly insulated house, which I could see for an old house, but not one 6 years old. Note: I have 4 ton unit on a 2500 sq ft built in 1993 and it is sized properly based on manual J heat load calculation.
I’ll give you a suggestion for a tech - Tom (don’t know his last name) with Ram Air in BR. He is originally from NY state - so if you called Ram Air you’d have to specifically request him - I’m assuming he still works for them - he did last year. He’s one of their senior techs. When I had an issue, first thing he did was to go into attic drill holes in return plenum and the furnace downstream of the blower motor to check static pressure - this to make sure unit air flow in CFM was correct, then he checked the temperature split between the return plenum and supply plenum (before air cold enters the ducts). These are things a tech should ideally should do before checking refrigerant pressures. Once he verified air flow as being correct, then he checked refrigerant pressures, sub-cool, superheat readings and then he properly charged the unit. First and only tech to ever do this in the 30 years I’ve been in this house.
I’ll give you a suggestion for a tech - Tom (don’t know his last name) with Ram Air in BR. He is originally from NY state - so if you called Ram Air you’d have to specifically request him - I’m assuming he still works for them - he did last year. He’s one of their senior techs. When I had an issue, first thing he did was to go into attic drill holes in return plenum and the furnace downstream of the blower motor to check static pressure - this to make sure unit air flow in CFM was correct, then he checked the temperature split between the return plenum and supply plenum (before air cold enters the ducts). These are things a tech should ideally should do before checking refrigerant pressures. Once he verified air flow as being correct, then he checked refrigerant pressures, sub-cool, superheat readings and then he properly charged the unit. First and only tech to ever do this in the 30 years I’ve been in this house.
Posted on 8/5/23 at 5:35 pm to Deactived
quote:
Comfort Control Heating and Air. Been using them for almost 20 years
I'm going to call them for next service. I spoke with them to obtain some information and they gave very helpful advice.
Posted on 8/5/23 at 5:35 pm to CrawDude
Total Comfort heating and air.
Posted on 8/5/23 at 6:08 pm to DVinBR
Call Wilkins Heating and Air (225) 276-4087. 5 stars on google reviews for a reason. I've used them and so have a few family and friends.
Their Master Tech, Adam, is probably one of the best HVAC guys in the state. Ask for him specifically.
A properly sized/healthy A/C can get it to whatever temp you want. Mine is a year old and I can get it to 62 right now in the heat of the day if I wanted to. Since I pay the bills, I choose not to.
Their Master Tech, Adam, is probably one of the best HVAC guys in the state. Ask for him specifically.
A properly sized/healthy A/C can get it to whatever temp you want. Mine is a year old and I can get it to 62 right now in the heat of the day if I wanted to. Since I pay the bills, I choose not to.
This post was edited on 8/5/23 at 6:11 pm
Posted on 8/5/23 at 7:49 pm to JAMAC2001
JC Heating and Air
Clinton LA 70722
Josh is a great guy to work with
Clinton LA 70722
Josh is a great guy to work with
Posted on 8/6/23 at 6:14 am to Deactived
quote:
Comfort Control Heating
How are they price wise compared to say accutemp?
Posted on 8/6/23 at 6:25 am to DVinBR
Clean your outside unit with a hose OP. Just turn the power off and take a hose on the inside and clean it, better to remove the fan but not necessary.
Then change your air filter and make sure you use a basic one. Do you have pets? It may need the evap coils cleaned also. This is all airflow, less airflow and poor airflow over the coils.
Get a thermometer and measure the air coming out of the vents. Can use a cooking thermometer or something similar you have around.
The other issue could be an insulation leak as said.
Otherwise 4 ton on 1600 sq ft should be plenty.
Then change your air filter and make sure you use a basic one. Do you have pets? It may need the evap coils cleaned also. This is all airflow, less airflow and poor airflow over the coils.
Get a thermometer and measure the air coming out of the vents. Can use a cooking thermometer or something similar you have around.
The other issue could be an insulation leak as said.
Otherwise 4 ton on 1600 sq ft should be plenty.
Posted on 8/6/23 at 7:34 am to baldona
quote:
i know the 20F rule between the outside and the inside,
I believe you are referring to the supply air should be 18-21F cooler than the return air.
As others have said, the following things can cause poor performance:
Incorrect air flow (dirty filter, dirty evap coil, wrong fan speed)
Incorrect Refrigerant charge
Dirty condenser coil
Poorly insulated house
Poorly sealed windows, doors, etc.
Poor installation
One of the companies mentioned in this thread has done work for me in the past. Let’s just say, they are the reason I took the EPA test and have learned to do my own work.
Posted on 8/6/23 at 7:58 am to DVinBR
Other things to consider:
I assume you have one dedicated return (where your filter is). If you leave doors closed, you can starve the return duct of air flow. The return will then pull air from the attic or from outside (thru leaks) to make up for the loss. I’ve tested air velocity leaving my supply registers and there’s a substantial reduction when doors are closed.
I’ve also seen poorly installed ductwork. Flex duct that is pinched, duct exiting the end of the plenum, etc.
I assume you have one dedicated return (where your filter is). If you leave doors closed, you can starve the return duct of air flow. The return will then pull air from the attic or from outside (thru leaks) to make up for the loss. I’ve tested air velocity leaving my supply registers and there’s a substantial reduction when doors are closed.
I’ve also seen poorly installed ductwork. Flex duct that is pinched, duct exiting the end of the plenum, etc.
Posted on 8/7/23 at 12:23 pm to DVinBR
Update: They added 2lb 3oz of refrigerant, decided to see how long it lasts before going after a leak
This post was edited on 8/7/23 at 1:01 pm
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