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re: Update- Pond Outlet Clogged... Construction pics added on page 3
Posted on 3/24/23 at 10:14 am to luvdoc
Posted on 3/24/23 at 10:14 am to luvdoc
Also, agree with above, if the pond is not rapidly stream- or spring-fed, a long flexible pipe draped over your Levee and down as low as possible on the both sides could siphon your pond dry pretty quickly
Posted on 3/24/23 at 12:05 pm to luvdoc
Last 2 times we've been up there, we've started a siphon with 4" corrugated drain pipe. One way or another, it has lost its prime both times at some point.
And I agree with everyone, it isn't an ideal drain system at all. But, we didn't pay to have the pond and drain system done. We are just trying to find a way to rectify it.
Next time we can get up there, I guess we'll remove as many slats as we can and let the pressure try to break something free
And I agree with everyone, it isn't an ideal drain system at all. But, we didn't pay to have the pond and drain system done. We are just trying to find a way to rectify it.
Next time we can get up there, I guess we'll remove as many slats as we can and let the pressure try to break something free
Posted on 3/24/23 at 12:12 pm to bootlegger
That’s honestly a terrible design
My fish ponds I use a 10 in pipe with a screen that stands up inside the pond and on the discharge side an alfalfa valve on bottom and a riser pipe that’s built to maintain a specific water level
My fish ponds I use a 10 in pipe with a screen that stands up inside the pond and on the discharge side an alfalfa valve on bottom and a riser pipe that’s built to maintain a specific water level
Posted on 3/24/23 at 12:15 pm to Turnblad85
Yep. West of 61 especially. Water cuts that dirt as efficiently as a track hoe.
Posted on 3/24/23 at 4:39 pm to luvdoc
quote:
You should not have to remove all of the slats all the way down from the bottom, just enough to get far enough below the current water level
This, pressure is your friend, and rent a drain auger from Home Depot and put in down the intake side, it’s most likely organic and this will break apart anything in there. That cut into the side of the intake pipe also gives you a good angle, so you may be able to just try and push the clog through with with a long pvc pipe or some rebar.
Posted on 3/24/23 at 4:44 pm to bootlegger
quote:
Next time we can get up there,
Just so you know, an overtopped earthen dam can fail in hours. It doesn't take days or months.
"Next time you get up there" you might not have a pond anymore.
Posted on 3/24/23 at 5:37 pm to deeprig9
My comment above about using pressure by removing several of the boards assumes that the obstruction has allowed enough water to pass such that the drainage side of the obstruction is filled with water.
If so, you need to get rid of that water, and just wait.
If not, then that's one hell of an obstruction
If so, you need to get rid of that water, and just wait.
If not, then that's one hell of an obstruction
Posted on 3/24/23 at 9:30 pm to Tusksup
quote:
You are absolutely going to have to get those slats out and put some head pressure on the drain.
This. Then I'd take a long piece of rebar to locate the interior of the elbow, slide a long enough piece of pvc pipe over the rebar into the elbow which will allow you to guide and run a rotor rooter into and through the elbow. Pull out the rebar to give the rotor more room to cut. After that elbow and remaining pipe is cleared I would run the correct size pvc with a pvc coupling straight down the smaller pvc pipe (using the smaller pipe as a guide) and just press it into place over the elbow. Cut this larger pipe to a length that is necessary to maintain the pond depth. Then just pull out the smaller pvc pipe leaving the larger pipe in place over the elbow. Put a screen over the top of the larger pvc to keep debris from accumulating around the new intake. I'm betting that pond sediment and leaves are the main culprit. A GoPro underwater camera or one of those newfangled bass boat fish cameras to see what you are dealing with and doing will be worth it's weight in gold. Just my opinion. Good luck! Following this thread.
Posted on 3/24/23 at 10:00 pm to bootlegger
quote:
siphon with 4" corrugated drain pipe
I've used that before and it worked as long as the pond water level was very high and suction was low. The seams in the corrugated pipe leaked air and killed the siphon. If using pvc, join the sections with rubber couplings. Of course the main angles will need a 45* or 22.5* fittings.
Posted on 3/24/23 at 10:16 pm to Turnblad85
quote:
seams in the corrugated pipe leaked air and killed the siphon
Probably what's happened to us.
Posted on 3/25/23 at 8:49 am to bootlegger
I think you need to figure out how to get all the slats out. Then id probably try to rig something up with a pressure washer to try and wash out the clog from the outlet side. I think it would also be a good idea to rig up a valve on the outlet before you start so you can shut off the flow once it is clear which should make it easier to install the slats.
Maybe a decent sized pump with say 2 or 3 “ outlet would be able to wash it out also.
Maybe a decent sized pump with say 2 or 3 “ outlet would be able to wash it out also.
This post was edited on 3/25/23 at 8:51 am
Posted on 3/25/23 at 12:19 pm to bootlegger
quote:
You are absolutely going to have to get those slats out and put some head pressure on the drain. Then I would get in a small boat and use some rebar or metal conduit to poke around and find the intake and maybe, if you're real lucky, you can get some water moving. If it ever starts flowing it will probably clean itself out with head pressure on it
You need to understand the fluid dynamics here. For so long as the level of the slats is at the level of the water in the dam there is no pressure available to force the clog to move. Removing the slats changes the head pressure on the clog and as the slats are removed the pressure against the clog will increase. When there is sufficient elevation difference between the level of the water in the dam and the top of the slats, the clog will likely clear itself.
For each foot of elevation difference between the water surface in the dam and the top of the slats at the outlet, the water pressure on the clog will increase by 62.4# per square foot of inlet size. Removing the slats down to five feet below the water level in the pond (for example) would increase the pressure on the clog to 62.4 x 5 = 312# per square foot. Removing 10 feet would provide 624# per square foot or 43.3 psi which is probably similar to your household hose bib pressure.
It may still be necessary to do a little work on the clog with a rebar if it includes sunken tree branches etc. but the pressure alone should do the job.
Posted on 3/25/23 at 3:38 pm to DownSouthDave
quote:
I would not want to be a diver down there trying to unclog it. If you get it free, potential for getting stuck on it is there. No thanks.
Plus, ponds seem gross to me. The clog might even be from a hog corpse or something
Posted on 3/25/23 at 4:28 pm to bootlegger
Wonder if a diesel air compressor and a hose attached to rebar or conduit fished down that vertical pipe could blow it out.
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