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re: Update- Pond Outlet Clogged... Construction pics added on page 3

Posted on 3/24/23 at 10:14 am to
Posted by luvdoc
"Please Ignore Our Yelp Reviews"
Member since May 2005
1166 posts
Posted on 3/24/23 at 10:14 am to
Also, agree with above, if the pond is not rapidly stream- or spring-fed, a long flexible pipe draped over your Levee and down as low as possible on the both sides could siphon your pond dry pretty quickly
Posted by bootlegger
Ponchatoula
Member since Dec 2012
5524 posts
Posted on 3/24/23 at 12:05 pm to
Last 2 times we've been up there, we've started a siphon with 4" corrugated drain pipe. One way or another, it has lost its prime both times at some point.

And I agree with everyone, it isn't an ideal drain system at all. But, we didn't pay to have the pond and drain system done. We are just trying to find a way to rectify it.

Next time we can get up there, I guess we'll remove as many slats as we can and let the pressure try to break something free
Posted by deltaland
Member since Mar 2011
102532 posts
Posted on 3/24/23 at 12:12 pm to
That’s honestly a terrible design


My fish ponds I use a 10 in pipe with a screen that stands up inside the pond and on the discharge side an alfalfa valve on bottom and a riser pipe that’s built to maintain a specific water level
Posted by turkish
Member since Aug 2016
2382 posts
Posted on 3/24/23 at 12:15 pm to
Yep. West of 61 especially. Water cuts that dirt as efficiently as a track hoe.
Posted by Hickok
Htown
Member since Jan 2013
2972 posts
Posted on 3/24/23 at 4:39 pm to
quote:

You should not have to remove all of the slats all the way down from the bottom, just enough to get far enough below the current water level

This, pressure is your friend, and rent a drain auger from Home Depot and put in down the intake side, it’s most likely organic and this will break apart anything in there. That cut into the side of the intake pipe also gives you a good angle, so you may be able to just try and push the clog through with with a long pvc pipe or some rebar.
Posted by deeprig9
Unincorporated Ozora
Member since Sep 2012
75288 posts
Posted on 3/24/23 at 4:44 pm to
quote:

Next time we can get up there,


Just so you know, an overtopped earthen dam can fail in hours. It doesn't take days or months.

"Next time you get up there" you might not have a pond anymore.
Posted by luvdoc
"Please Ignore Our Yelp Reviews"
Member since May 2005
1166 posts
Posted on 3/24/23 at 5:37 pm to
My comment above about using pressure by removing several of the boards assumes that the obstruction has allowed enough water to pass such that the drainage side of the obstruction is filled with water.

If so, you need to get rid of that water, and just wait.

If not, then that's one hell of an obstruction
Posted by BFIV
Virginia
Member since Apr 2012
8841 posts
Posted on 3/24/23 at 9:30 pm to
quote:

You are absolutely going to have to get those slats out and put some head pressure on the drain.


This. Then I'd take a long piece of rebar to locate the interior of the elbow, slide a long enough piece of pvc pipe over the rebar into the elbow which will allow you to guide and run a rotor rooter into and through the elbow. Pull out the rebar to give the rotor more room to cut. After that elbow and remaining pipe is cleared I would run the correct size pvc with a pvc coupling straight down the smaller pvc pipe (using the smaller pipe as a guide) and just press it into place over the elbow. Cut this larger pipe to a length that is necessary to maintain the pond depth. Then just pull out the smaller pvc pipe leaving the larger pipe in place over the elbow. Put a screen over the top of the larger pvc to keep debris from accumulating around the new intake. I'm betting that pond sediment and leaves are the main culprit. A GoPro underwater camera or one of those newfangled bass boat fish cameras to see what you are dealing with and doing will be worth it's weight in gold. Just my opinion. Good luck! Following this thread.
Posted by Turnblad85
Member since Sep 2022
5502 posts
Posted on 3/24/23 at 10:00 pm to
quote:

siphon with 4" corrugated drain pipe



I've used that before and it worked as long as the pond water level was very high and suction was low. The seams in the corrugated pipe leaked air and killed the siphon. If using pvc, join the sections with rubber couplings. Of course the main angles will need a 45* or 22.5* fittings.
Posted by bootlegger
Ponchatoula
Member since Dec 2012
5524 posts
Posted on 3/24/23 at 10:16 pm to
quote:

seams in the corrugated pipe leaked air and killed the siphon


Probably what's happened to us.
Posted by diat150
Louisiana
Member since Jun 2005
47736 posts
Posted on 3/25/23 at 8:49 am to
I think you need to figure out how to get all the slats out. Then id probably try to rig something up with a pressure washer to try and wash out the clog from the outlet side. I think it would also be a good idea to rig up a valve on the outlet before you start so you can shut off the flow once it is clear which should make it easier to install the slats.

Maybe a decent sized pump with say 2 or 3 “ outlet would be able to wash it out also.
This post was edited on 3/25/23 at 8:51 am
Posted by ImaObserver
Member since Aug 2019
2500 posts
Posted on 3/25/23 at 12:19 pm to
quote:

You are absolutely going to have to get those slats out and put some head pressure on the drain. Then I would get in a small boat and use some rebar or metal conduit to poke around and find the intake and maybe, if you're real lucky, you can get some water moving. If it ever starts flowing it will probably clean itself out with head pressure on it

You need to understand the fluid dynamics here. For so long as the level of the slats is at the level of the water in the dam there is no pressure available to force the clog to move. Removing the slats changes the head pressure on the clog and as the slats are removed the pressure against the clog will increase. When there is sufficient elevation difference between the level of the water in the dam and the top of the slats, the clog will likely clear itself.
For each foot of elevation difference between the water surface in the dam and the top of the slats at the outlet, the water pressure on the clog will increase by 62.4# per square foot of inlet size. Removing the slats down to five feet below the water level in the pond (for example) would increase the pressure on the clog to 62.4 x 5 = 312# per square foot. Removing 10 feet would provide 624# per square foot or 43.3 psi which is probably similar to your household hose bib pressure.
It may still be necessary to do a little work on the clog with a rebar if it includes sunken tree branches etc. but the pressure alone should do the job.
Posted by biglego
San Francisco
Member since Nov 2007
84602 posts
Posted on 3/25/23 at 3:38 pm to
quote:

I would not want to be a diver down there trying to unclog it. If you get it free, potential for getting stuck on it is there. No thanks.


Plus, ponds seem gross to me. The clog might even be from a hog corpse or something
Posted by LSUEnvy
Hou via Lake Chas
Member since May 2011
12649 posts
Posted on 3/25/23 at 4:28 pm to
Wonder if a diesel air compressor and a hose attached to rebar or conduit fished down that vertical pipe could blow it out.
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