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Started By
Message
OB mechanics, did I lose an injector? Update Dead #7 cylinder
Posted on 10/5/22 at 4:10 pm
Posted on 10/5/22 at 4:10 pm
Was driving and everything is normal, get to light and truck starts missing bad.
Luckily was next to a mechanic shop so I pulled in. Chances that a sudden miss would be from a spark plug or plug cable?
The plugs and cables did need to be changed.
Mechanic called and there is signs or arching and plug had fuel on it. Keeping fingers crossed it was the plug. This is a 16 GMC with the 5.3
Luckily was next to a mechanic shop so I pulled in. Chances that a sudden miss would be from a spark plug or plug cable?
The plugs and cables did need to be changed.
Mechanic called and there is signs or arching and plug had fuel on it. Keeping fingers crossed it was the plug. This is a 16 GMC with the 5.3
This post was edited on 10/6/22 at 6:24 pm
6
Posted on 10/5/22 at 4:30 pm to GREENHEAD22
Do those motors have coil on plug? That's probably what it is.
Posted on 10/5/22 at 10:07 pm to GREENHEAD22
Hopefully not a chewed up lifter or camshaft lobe, I've changed a shitpile of them both here lately.
Posted on 10/5/22 at 11:18 pm to GREENHEAD22
Ditch that anemic 5.3 turd and get yourself in an ecoboost. If you can’t afford that I guess ask your mechanic what it is or read the ODB2 code and report back to us. Based on what you told us it can be all kinds of different things. Not enough info.
Posted on 10/6/22 at 9:43 am to GREENHEAD22
Had a similar issue a few years ago on a different engine. Changed plugs and wires and still same symptom. Turned out to be a bad ECU.
Posted on 10/6/22 at 2:33 pm to GREENHEAD22
Do you know what codes it had? 9/10 times with those symptoms it's a bad ignition coil.
Posted on 10/6/22 at 5:33 pm to ScaryTerry
Dead #7 cylinder, no compression, fml.
Posted on 10/6/22 at 5:38 pm to GREENHEAD22
Variable displacement 5.3 strikes again, I hate it for you
Posted on 10/6/22 at 5:43 pm to Barneyrb
I don't understand, that is something that doesnt usually fails instantaneously is it? The truck was running fine, no misfiring no indications that anything was wrong.
This post was edited on 10/6/22 at 5:54 pm
Posted on 10/6/22 at 6:16 pm to GREENHEAD22
quote:
I don't understand, that is something that doesnt usually fails instantaneously is it? The truck was running fine, no misfiring no indications that anything was wrong.
Whether it fails instantaneously or gradually the end result is the same.
Actually if it was mine I'd pull the valve covers and look for a rocker arm, push-rod, valve spring, lifter, or camshaft problem. You're going to find a top end problem on that engine.
Posted on 10/6/22 at 6:23 pm to Barneyrb
The issue is the cost to find out everything and fix it is going to cost as much a new motor damn near, or a certified motor.
A 2016 with 125k, dropping another 10k into it after rebuilding the transmission earlier this year is not something I am wanting to do.
Anyone have recommendations on which way to go?
A 2016 with 125k, dropping another 10k into it after rebuilding the transmission earlier this year is not something I am wanting to do.
Anyone have recommendations on which way to go?
Posted on 10/6/22 at 7:05 pm to GREENHEAD22
Man that sucks I almost posted earlier asking if it was the same truck you had transmission issues with.
If the cylinder is really toast and you want to fix it I wouldn’t rebuild that engine unless it’s really simple. The machine work is rarely worth it, those blocks are a dime a dozen. Id buy a used engine with the old cam that doesn’t have the afm lifters. A lot of guys just bought a whole brand new engine from the dealership (10k) when they dropped a lifter. I absolutely would get a different vehicle before I’d put 10 more grand into the same engine.
I have a 2011 with 210k, ready to spend the money if it ever drops a lifter just because cars are absolutely ridiculous right now.
If the cylinder is really toast and you want to fix it I wouldn’t rebuild that engine unless it’s really simple. The machine work is rarely worth it, those blocks are a dime a dozen. Id buy a used engine with the old cam that doesn’t have the afm lifters. A lot of guys just bought a whole brand new engine from the dealership (10k) when they dropped a lifter. I absolutely would get a different vehicle before I’d put 10 more grand into the same engine.
I have a 2011 with 210k, ready to spend the money if it ever drops a lifter just because cars are absolutely ridiculous right now.
Posted on 10/6/22 at 8:18 pm to bigbuckdj
quote:
I have a 2011 with 210k, ready to spend the money if it ever drops a lifter just because cars are absolutely ridiculous right now.
Got a 2010 Yukon with 165k and had the AFM electronically disabled around 100k miles when I dropped a lifter. No issues with it since then, fingers crossed. If I could go back I'd probably go ahead and get a full DOD delete but just didn't have the cash to drop at the time.
If I buy a used '15+ GM vehicle with DOD I'll probably do a full delete to never have to deal with it.
Posted on 10/6/22 at 8:39 pm to bapple
They say it can still happen with the electronic disable but I electronically disabled it at 100k and I haven’t had any problems. It also burned noticeably less oil between oil changes when I did that.
Posted on 10/6/22 at 9:03 pm to bigbuckdj
The compression on all the other cylinders were fine. I need to see if they checked the lifter, could the valve be stuck open causing no compression on the cylinder? And it just be a lifter issue? I may be completely wrong.
Posted on 10/6/22 at 9:18 pm to GREENHEAD22
It could be that but I’d hope the mechanic would know if it was the lifter or not by the sound or by pulling the valve covers. What is the mechanic saying he thinks caused it? Was it low compression or no compression?
Posted on 10/6/22 at 9:24 pm to bigbuckdj
He said no compression.
I am going to talk options and more detail with him tomorrow.
Coil pack was covered in gas.
I am going to get the price to check the rocker arms, push rods, valves etc.
There was no noises, clanking or anything, just vibration.
I am going to talk options and more detail with him tomorrow.
Coil pack was covered in gas.
I am going to get the price to check the rocker arms, push rods, valves etc.
There was no noises, clanking or anything, just vibration.
Posted on 10/6/22 at 9:41 pm to GREENHEAD22
quote:
could the valve be stuck open causing no compression on the cylinder
Not likely, if it had stuck open then the piston would have hit it on the next stroke and you'd have tremendous back pressure. I'm talking enough to blow the dipstick out and in the yard if your hood is up due to a hole in the piston.
Posted on 10/6/22 at 9:54 pm to Barneyrb
Well damn. I would be getting a new truck but we are buying the wife a new car so not doing two new vehicles at once.
I have heard good thinks about Jasper AFM deleted engines, not sure the cost.
Ford has added the AFM to the 5.0s which is what I was looking to switch to. I feel like there is no clear cut most reliable halfton in the market these days. The tundra having the turbo v6 now makes them suspect until they get a track record.
I am contemplating selling the truck and keeping the wife's car for a year or so.
I have heard good thinks about Jasper AFM deleted engines, not sure the cost.
Ford has added the AFM to the 5.0s which is what I was looking to switch to. I feel like there is no clear cut most reliable halfton in the market these days. The tundra having the turbo v6 now makes them suspect until they get a track record.
I am contemplating selling the truck and keeping the wife's car for a year or so.
This post was edited on 10/6/22 at 10:51 pm
Posted on 10/6/22 at 10:12 pm to bigbuckdj
quote:
They say it can still happen with the electronic disable but I electronically disabled it at 100k and I haven’t had any problems. It also burned noticeably less oil between oil changes when I did that.
Any opinion on the safest / most reliable AFM Disabler brand to use? I have a 2016 5.3 GMC with low miles only 27k. Obviously, not driven much still looks new.
Several on the market, Range Technology is one brand. I'm not going to spend the $$ to delete. So far no issues with the truck at all, and am just getting into this problem.
I suppose being out of warranty the ECU could be programmed to disable, but the OBD plugins seem simpler and effective.
Thanks in advance.
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