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Message
re: Newbie Hunting Questions
Posted on 10/15/25 at 3:57 pm to HillbillyTiger
Posted on 10/15/25 at 3:57 pm to HillbillyTiger
quote:You're ignoring logic because it goes against the terrible advice you were given. Like many (the dirty truth is that it's actually most, as the average Joe rifle hunters are terrible shooters as a whole), you don't know what you're talking about.
You’re making this way harder than it has to be for some fella hunting PUBLIC LAND in the woods of North Carolina.
All these pieces of advice for socks and climbing stands for a new outdoorsman who doesn't even know how to sight in a rifle, and the most important piece of advice he should be getting is wrong. Talk about putting the cart ahead of the horse. This is what hunting culture has let the gear industry do to it: out with woodsmanship and in with the gear queers. It doesn't matter how damn light his climber is, he needs to be on a bench learning his weapon and making vital decisions on what he wants out of it for his given situation at their most extremes, and that advice needs to be sound, not some ridiculous, illogical, arbitrary catch all number that cripples him when - not IF - he is faced with the scenario where he must quickly determine a range, and if that range is slightly too far but not at all out of the ordinary, he must then think about doping his shot because he was told to zero for 150 yards.
What you're unsurprisingly failing to realize is that my way - zeroing his rifle for 275-300 yards depending on his load - IS the easy method: Point and shoot from 0 to 300 yards. It's that simple. Not from 0 to 200 (at best) like you're telling him, but 0 to 300+. Logic: learn it, love it, live it.
quote:Completely fabricated nonsense. Any outdoorsman with half my experience knows that's not the way it works. If anything, him being a novice for at least the next 5 years all but guarantees he'll be faced with multiple scenarios outside of your utopian situation quoted above. That's not the way it works in the field when the biggest buck of his young career is broadside crossing a half acre green field at daylight going to bed but he's at 235 yards so now he's thinking about holdover when he didn't have to. You're imagining something that isn't reality. That makes me question your experience level as a woodsman, if any.
which at your point in the hunting journey is probably 150 yards TOO FAR for him to attempt at this stage.
He should sight his rifle in to be zeroed at 275 yards. Not 150 yards. If he wants to cut his point and shoot range down by at least 100 yards so that whenever he's inevitably faced with a longer shot (of which the possibility arising because of his beginner status is magnified), then he should take your poor advice. If he wants to be able to point and shoot from 0 to 300+ yards, he should take my advice. Period. End of story. It's that simple, it's just a hard pill to swallow because your way was peepaw's way. I get it. I used to do it too before I got into benchrest and applying its principles to the field.
I'm a member of one of the oldest, biggest deer camps in the southeast. I watch dozens upon dozens of "seasoned" adult male hunters wound and maim dozens upon dozens of deer a year, year after year, because of this exact mentality because, again, that's the way peepaw and uncle Buck did it. Unfortunately, more often than can be stomached, many are mature, once in 5 to 10 year bucks that are either never recovered, or give up their meat to the tax man. What's even worse is that so many are maimed from a stand hunted out of 15+ times a year (no excuse for unfamiliarity) where it should've been a chip shot powerline 275 yard kill with their 6th rotation rifle chambered in their new and improved 300 Weatherby Super Short Magnum Mag Man Mag, but because they're having to dope it on top of fight adrenaline instead of being proficient, they add to the error and we lose an animal because of stubborness, ignorance, and lack of skill. Yours and the other poster's absolutely atrocious advice is not surprising. Frustrating, because you're terribly uninformed regarding riflemanship giving an absolutely novice beginner awful advice on the #1 most important hunting tool he has, but not surprising.
I can say with authority, Oper, especially for a new hunting brother coming into the fold like yourself who knows next to nothing on rifles and their application in the field: disregard the awful advice for 1" high at 100, as well as the first one saying zero at 100, and take my advice. The best thing you can do as a novice is familiarize yourself with maximum point blank range, apply its principles to your situation, and you'll know more than at least 3 hunters on this thread, along with an embarrassingly large number of whitetail hunters who had decades to learn how to outfit, shoot, and become proficient with their weapon but did not.
Posted on 10/15/25 at 4:28 pm to Jcorye1
Man, I don’t mean to be insulting, but have you thought about aquirrel hunting for a season before going all out?
I have got a friend who tried just what you are doing. After all of the prep and expense, he hunted one morning until about 9 AM and decided he didn’t like the experience at all. Packed up his shite and came out and never went again.
I have got a friend who tried just what you are doing. After all of the prep and expense, he hunted one morning until about 9 AM and decided he didn’t like the experience at all. Packed up his shite and came out and never went again.
Posted on 10/15/25 at 4:38 pm to Jcorye1
What part of the state will you hunt? Mountains, hills, near the coast?
Sight in 2” high @ 100 yards.
Sight in 2” high @ 100 yards.
Posted on 10/15/25 at 5:39 pm to HillbillyTiger
quote:
You’re making this way harder than it has to be for some fella hunting PUBLIC LAND in the woods of North Carolina.
Exactly, thank you.
Posted on 10/15/25 at 5:43 pm to mudshuvl05
quote:
You're ignoring logic because it goes against the terrible advice you were given. Like many (the dirty truth is that it's actually most, as the average Joe rifle hunters are terrible shooters as a whole), you don't know what you're talking about.
Dude, why are you so angry? I didn’t attack you personally…totally unnecessary for you to go off on an ad hominem attack.
Try a little humility and mercy.
Go step out in the sun, enjoy God’s creation a bit and come back in and we can talk like men.
This post was edited on 10/15/25 at 5:45 pm
Posted on 10/15/25 at 6:00 pm to mudshuvl05
quote:
You're ignoring logic because it goes against the terrible advice you were given. Like many (the dirty truth is that it's actually most, as the average Joe rifle hunters are terrible shooters as a whole), you don't know what you're talking about. All these pieces of advice for socks and climbing stands for a new outdoorsman who doesn't even know how to sight in a rifle, and the most important piece of advice he should be getting is wrong. Talk about putting the cart ahead of the horse. This is what hunting culture has let the gear industry do to it: out with woodsmanship and in with the gear queers. It doesn't matter how damn light his climber is, he needs to be on a bench learning his weapon and making vital decisions on what he wants out of it for his given situation at their most extremes, and that advice needs to be sound, not some ridiculous, illogical, arbitrary catch all number that cripples him when - not IF - he is faced with the scenario where he must quickly determine a range, and if that range is slightly too far but not at all out of the ordinary, he must then think about doping his shot because he was told to zero for 150 yards. What you're unsurprisingly failing to realize is that my way - zeroing his rifle for 275-300 yards depending on his load - IS the easy method: Point and shoot from 0 to 300 yards. It's that simple. Not from 0 to 200 (at best) like you're telling him, but 0 to 300+. Logic: learn it, love it, live it.quote:which at your point in the hunting journey is probably 150 yards TOO FAR for him to attempt at this stage. Completely fabricated nonsense. Any outdoorsman with half my experience knows that's not the way it works. If anything, him being a novice for at least the next 5 years all but guarantees he'll be faced with multiple scenarios outside of your utopian situation quoted above. That's not the way it works in the field when the biggest buck of his young career is broadside crossing a half acre green field at daylight going to bed but he's at 235 yards so now he's thinking about holdover when he didn't have to. You're imagining something that isn't reality. That makes me question your experience level as a woodsman, if any. He should sight his rifle in to be zeroed at 275 yards. Not 150 yards. If he wants to cut his point and shoot range down by at least 100 yards so that whenever he's inevitably faced with a longer shot (of which the possibility arising because of his beginner status is magnified), then he should take your poor advice. If he wants to be able to point and shoot from 0 to 300+ yards, he should take my advice. Period. End of story. It's that simple, it's just a hard pill to swallow because your way was peepaw's way. I get it. I used to do it too before I got into benchrest and applying its principles to the field. I'm a member of one of the oldest, biggest deer camps in the southeast. I watch dozens upon dozens of "seasoned" adult male hunters wound and maim dozens upon dozens of deer a year, year after year, because of this exact mentality because, again, that's the way peepaw and uncle Buck did it. Unfortunately, more often than can be stomached, many are mature, once in 5 to 10 year bucks that are either never recovered, or give up their meat to the tax man. What's even worse is that so many are maimed from a stand hunted out of 15+ times a year (no excuse for unfamiliarity) where it should've been a chip shot powerline 275 yard kill with their 6th rotation rifle chambered in their new and improved 300 Weatherby Super Short Magnum Mag Man Mag, but because they're having to dope it on top of fight adrenaline instead of being proficient, they add to the error and we lose an animal because of stubborness, ignorance, and lack of skill. Yours and the other poster's absolutely atrocious advice is not surprising. Frustrating, because you're terribly uninformed regarding riflemanship giving an absolutely novice beginner awful advice on the #1 most important hunting tool he has, but not surprising. I can say with authority, Oper, especially for a new hunting brother coming into the fold like yourself who knows next to nothing on rifles and their application in the field: disregard the awful advice for 1" high at 100, as well as the first one saying zero at 100, and take my advice. The best thing you can do as a novice is familiarize yourself with maximum point blank range, apply its principles to your situation, and you'll know more than at least 3 hunters on this thread, along with an embarrassingly large number of whitetail hunters who had decades to learn how to outfit, shoot, and become proficient with their weapon but did not.
Holy cow
Posted on 10/15/25 at 6:45 pm to Jcorye1
quote:
1. Should I pick up a sled? 2. Should I establish a relationship with a deer processor before I even go hunting, in-case I get lucky and actually shoot one? 3. What yardage is everyone zeroing to? 4. Anything else I should take into account?
-YouTube gutless method deer cleaning.
If you don’t have to check the deer in its way easier than packing it out whole. And you can carry it out in a decent backpack.
-ask around and find a “good” processor they are not all equal and quality varies no need to book ahead
-95%of the deer killed can be killed with a 6.5 creedmore more zeroed 1 or 2in high at 100yd. I’m typically 1.5 in or so high and then verify my drops so I can dial accordingly at or past 300yd but that’s for another day for you.
What type of public land will you be hunting ? Forrest? Wild life management areas? What type of terrain predominantly? Pine trees? Lowland hardwood bottomland?
Do you know rut timing of the area you are hunting?
Posted on 10/15/25 at 7:26 pm to Jcorye1
quote:
1. Should I pick up a sled?
I never did. I carry my dressing tools and bags
quote:
What yardage is everyone zeroing to?
In the south youre going to be hard pressed to find a shot greater than 100yds. I read somewhere that like 95% of all game taken is done so <100yds.
quote:
Anything else I should take into account?
I saddle an bowhunt, so it’s been actually a long time since I carried a rifle.
I’ve hunted public land in SELA and haven’t seen or shot dick in 5 years. I have seen a bunch of kids chomping thru woods making so much noise you could hear them fro the next parish, idiot bird hunters walking thru meadows, and guys carrying rifles in archery only WMAs.
I have met some good baws hunting in the middle of the week and ran into two of the nicest Green Jeans I’ve ever met though. So there is that.
Posted on 10/15/25 at 8:27 pm to mudshuvl05
quote:
mudshuvl05
Ain’t nobody reading all that
Posted on 10/15/25 at 11:16 pm to Bayouboogaloocrew
I agree with the 100 yd zero.When I first started deer hunting I had no knowledge of high powered rifles.Bought a .270 and zeroed it 3 inches high at a hundred yds as recommended by experts.
Hunting 20 ft up a pine tree and aiming at deer behind the shoulder at 100 yds or less I would hit them on the backbone,missed one.
The deal is shooting downhill or uphill causes bullet to hit high.Resighted my scope for dead on at 100 yds and since then I’ve had no more problems,I aim center chest behind the shoulder and hit where I aim or maybe a inch or two off.
Now if I was going Pronghorn hunting I can see the benefit of zeroing for maximum point blank range.It,depends on where one is hunting and if they are going to be elevated.OP said he was buying a tree stand so I stand by the 100 yd.zero.
I’ve killed over 100 deer,anywhere from 50 yds to 200 yds,longest shot was 250 yds,all with 100 yd.zero.Good many pigs also.
Hunting 20 ft up a pine tree and aiming at deer behind the shoulder at 100 yds or less I would hit them on the backbone,missed one.
The deal is shooting downhill or uphill causes bullet to hit high.Resighted my scope for dead on at 100 yds and since then I’ve had no more problems,I aim center chest behind the shoulder and hit where I aim or maybe a inch or two off.
Now if I was going Pronghorn hunting I can see the benefit of zeroing for maximum point blank range.It,depends on where one is hunting and if they are going to be elevated.OP said he was buying a tree stand so I stand by the 100 yd.zero.
I’ve killed over 100 deer,anywhere from 50 yds to 200 yds,longest shot was 250 yds,all with 100 yd.zero.Good many pigs also.
Posted on 10/16/25 at 6:22 am to LSUA 75
quote:
The deal is shooting downhill or uphill causes bullet to hit high.
20 ft up a tree and 100 yard shot the effect on the bullet is going to be negligible. It's more likely you're like me and forget to aim 3 inches low in the heat of the moment
I got curious about it a while back. If my 308 is shooting 2700 FPS Grok says you're looking at a difference in POI of 0.005 inches higher if you're 20 ft up and the deer is 100 yards away. You have to get to some pretty extreme ranges or angles before it becomes a concern.
Posted on 10/16/25 at 10:11 am to Ol boy
quote:
What type of public land will you be hunting ? Forrest? Wild life management areas? What type of terrain predominantly? Pine trees? Lowland hardwood bottomland?
Forest, probably a good amount of woods.
As for squirrel hunting, I like a lot of kids used to run in our backyard with a pellet gun
I like being outdoors, and I enjoy shooting guns, and it sounds corny, but I feel called to hunt. I've lost touch with where my meat comes from, and I think I need to rekindle that.
This post was edited on 10/16/25 at 10:14 am
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