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Started By
Message
re: My Kimber 1911 is starting to rust pretty bad.
Posted on 6/8/17 at 8:46 pm to X123F45
Posted on 6/8/17 at 8:46 pm to X123F45
quote:
quote:
used some chainsaw oil on a gun
Not bar and chain lube
To be clear, I only used the chainsaw oil as a rubdown, after cold bluing a slide.
Following some online advice to make the cold blue work as best as possible, I degreased that slide with Simple Green, poured boiling water from a teapot on it (the full pot) to get any further grease off and to heat the metal, and then applied the cold blue cream. I did this 6 times, and got a decently deep and consistent blue. The heat of the water evaporated almost immediately, and as soon as it was dry I'd put the cream on with a cotton ball. It would sizzle as it went on. Eventually, the slide was basically a solid black.
After the last time, I grabbed the chain saw oil BECAUSE it was the thickest oil I had, glopped it thickly on the slide inside a ziplock, and left it overnight sitting on my stove, over the griddle pilot light (it's warm/hot to the touch, like a car during summer in the sun).
Next day, I wiped it off, and it seems to have cured the cold blue decently well.
I've also considered using that chainsaw oil to wipe down a parkerized pistol I own in the same manner, as the parkerizing simply holds the oil (that's how it protects against rust). I ended up using Vaseline instead... less toxic, and more viscous. Smeared it up good and let it bake over the same hot spot for full day, it soaked in good, oozed out a little for a day (just wipe it off, like cosmoline) and now the gun feels smooth and velvety, instead of rough and dusty.
Don't laugh until you try it- but I don't recommend Vaseline on anything except parkerized guns!
And NO, I don't use that stuff on the slide rails or internals, just the exterior. Depending on the gun, I use either Ballistol, or Mobil 1 full synthetic bearing grease.
2
Posted on 6/8/17 at 8:54 pm to Midnight Delight
Send it to Robar and have them put the NP3 Finish on it. Never have to worry again it again.
Posted on 6/8/17 at 9:09 pm to Scoob
Back to the Johnson Paste Wax, I use it on the exteriors of blued, Bruniton (Beretta's finish), polycoat (CZ's), and a few other finishes, as well as anodized aluminum.
Some folks on various firearms forums swear by it, and in theory, it makes a lot of sense. Wax works great on your auto's painted finish, and that gets exposed to rougher elements than your pistol (should be). On the various paints/polycoats/cerakotes etc, it's exactly the same concept. You wouldn't spray bike chain oil on your car hood, you'd wax it.
Some folks warn against using most car waxes since they have cleaning/polishing elements (grit, basically), but JPW and Renaissance Wax are "just" wax, so if you use clean cloths, you won't hurt your finish. Most regular gun cleaners strip the wax right off, so you won't be building layers up.
Heck, my dad used to use Mucilin (red) on his guns, and some of those are 70 yrs old and still look great.
Some folks on various firearms forums swear by it, and in theory, it makes a lot of sense. Wax works great on your auto's painted finish, and that gets exposed to rougher elements than your pistol (should be). On the various paints/polycoats/cerakotes etc, it's exactly the same concept. You wouldn't spray bike chain oil on your car hood, you'd wax it.
Some folks warn against using most car waxes since they have cleaning/polishing elements (grit, basically), but JPW and Renaissance Wax are "just" wax, so if you use clean cloths, you won't hurt your finish. Most regular gun cleaners strip the wax right off, so you won't be building layers up.
Heck, my dad used to use Mucilin (red) on his guns, and some of those are 70 yrs old and still look great.
Posted on 6/8/17 at 9:12 pm to lsufan1971
quote:Do they ever offer deals on mutiple items? I would love to NP3 my CZ 75, Beretta 92FS, and Sig P226 so that the 3 match (and look pretty!), but 3 pistols at their rates look kinda pricey.
Send it to Robar and have them put the NP3 Finish on it. Never have to worry again it again.
Posted on 6/8/17 at 9:18 pm to tommy2tone1999
Wait so now gun porn is not allowed? Who pulled the pic I posted?
Posted on 6/8/17 at 9:23 pm to Midnight Delight
Birchwood Casey Barricade.
Posted on 6/9/17 at 12:08 am to Scoob
quote:
And NO, I don't use that stuff on the slide rails or internals, just the exterior.
I keep tubs of it in the shop for assembling engines. It melts extremely quickly inside a motor and provides just enough to keep thing save until the oil gets there.
As for the car comment, I would not put chain lube on my car hood. I would however spray the hinges with it (I do, all of them) and I soak down the underside of vehicles with an oil spray when I get them.
My 4x4s see significant water, so I try to keep the bottom sides oily.
I expect my guns to work no later the condition. I think nothing of toting a $1500 gun into the yard looking for an Amarillo at night and not giving it a good wipe down until the following evening. Even if it got rained on.
Posted on 6/9/17 at 12:10 am to DeoreDX
I soak my blued guns with g96 and lightly rub down with soaked stainless Steel pad if has light rust spots and wipe stocks down with same. Love that stuff.
Posted on 6/9/17 at 12:28 am to Scoob
Look at Black-T, as well.
I had an A-Bolt Stainless Stalker Black-T'd. It's my foul weather gun and has seen a lot of rain. Absolutely no rust.
Birdsong will do a 1911 and 2 mags for $200.
I had an A-Bolt Stainless Stalker Black-T'd. It's my foul weather gun and has seen a lot of rain. Absolutely no rust.
Birdsong will do a 1911 and 2 mags for $200.
Posted on 6/9/17 at 12:44 am to Midnight Delight
MD,
Sorry to hear of your rust problems.
What is the gun stored in when it's in your truck? Do NOT store it in a gun rug or case unless you've got a good coating of an oil to protect the metal; gun rugs are notorious for drawing in moisture from the air and have rusted out many a fine gun.I don't know where you live, but obviously the gulf south is very humid and therefore very bad on unprotected metal surfaces. In addition, some guns just seem more susceptible to surface rust than others. Having said all this, any gun needs to be cared for w/ the application of an oil to protect it. Everyone has their personal favorite and nearly all of them work pretty good. In my son's science fair project many years ago we looked at different products for protecting a metal surface from corrosion. All worked pretty good, but IIRC, the best performers were: Corrosion X, CLP, Shooter's Choice and Eezox. If you use a gun rug/sock, I'd suggest spraying a rust preventive agent on the inside.
Sorry to hear of your rust problems.
What is the gun stored in when it's in your truck? Do NOT store it in a gun rug or case unless you've got a good coating of an oil to protect the metal; gun rugs are notorious for drawing in moisture from the air and have rusted out many a fine gun.I don't know where you live, but obviously the gulf south is very humid and therefore very bad on unprotected metal surfaces. In addition, some guns just seem more susceptible to surface rust than others. Having said all this, any gun needs to be cared for w/ the application of an oil to protect it. Everyone has their personal favorite and nearly all of them work pretty good. In my son's science fair project many years ago we looked at different products for protecting a metal surface from corrosion. All worked pretty good, but IIRC, the best performers were: Corrosion X, CLP, Shooter's Choice and Eezox. If you use a gun rug/sock, I'd suggest spraying a rust preventive agent on the inside. Posted on 6/9/17 at 12:49 am to auggie
quote:
I have 2 rifles that have rust issues. I used a chore boy copper wool pad to remove the rust spots,then used a close matching sharpy to go over those spots.
Ouch! That's an aggressive pad to use on a fine gun. That's prolly why your blueing was removed. Next time I'd suggest first soaking the rust in an oil (I use Eezox, Corrosion X or CLP) then using a slurry made of the same oil and Mother's Mag Polish. If that doesn't work, use very fine steel wool (0000) and the same slurry.
This post was edited on 6/9/17 at 12:44 pm
Posted on 6/9/17 at 8:55 am to Scoob
quote:
Do they ever offer deals on mutiple items? I would love to NP3 my CZ 75, Beretta 92FS, and Sig P226 so that the 3 match (and look pretty!), but 3 pistols at their rates look kinda pricey.
I doubt it they have a 12-16 week backlog. I had them Rogaurd the slide and frame of a Colt XSE and NP3+ the internals. Also did a 1911 reliability package and they installed a Ed Brown match barrel and trigger. Cost me about $700 but was well worth it. It shoots as good as my Ed Brown SF. My only regret is not getting them to do the front strap checkering.
The great thing about Np3\NP3+ is its also self lubricating so you don't need to use hardly any oil on the parts hence getting the internals done. It was first used in industrial applications because of this feature and it can withstand 1000+ hour of salt spray. It is simply the best firearm finish available end of story.
This post was edited on 6/9/17 at 9:07 am
Posted on 6/9/17 at 9:13 am to lsufan1971
I'm going to have to look into this.
This post was edited on 6/9/17 at 9:14 am
Posted on 6/9/17 at 9:16 am to Rize
Posted on 6/9/17 at 9:58 am to lsufan1971
Another option is Duracote. I had an XD slide done years ago and night sights installed at the same time. I rarely cleaned it. It was a poly truck gun. I would run a snake down the barrel after the range, but I might have stripped and cleaned it once in 5 years.
Posted on 6/9/17 at 10:05 am to TU Rob
Maybe freedom group low key bought out kimber and ruined it 
This post was edited on 6/9/17 at 10:06 am
Posted on 6/9/17 at 12:11 pm to lsufan1971
Yeah, I've looked at Robar's site in the past, and you're right- they really do offer the best applied finish to a firearm.
The finish is both tough, and attractive. And best of all, it can be applied to aluminum frames too; I've seen images of Berettas done like that, and they really do look sharp.
But we're hijacking this thread a bit, and one important thing to note: regardless of finish, you really should treat your firearm as though it may rust, and apply a protectant of some sort as necessary.
Rando mentions taking a rifle to the woods in the rain and not cleaning for a day; that's fine, a good baseline case. He coats with the chain oil, and it works. I've heard good things from others about it.
Same thing with the wax (or mucilin), there are people who gave their duck guns a coat at the start of the season, and not do anything else until it is over. Works too; water beads up on it, no rust, mud wipes off easily.
There are a lot of products you can use, whether very expensive "for gun" stuff, or much cheaper "generic" stuff... and let's be honest- most of the "gun stuff" is simply repackaged to sell for a huge profit. That's both for external protection and for lubrication.
The finish is both tough, and attractive. And best of all, it can be applied to aluminum frames too; I've seen images of Berettas done like that, and they really do look sharp.
But we're hijacking this thread a bit, and one important thing to note: regardless of finish, you really should treat your firearm as though it may rust, and apply a protectant of some sort as necessary.
Rando mentions taking a rifle to the woods in the rain and not cleaning for a day; that's fine, a good baseline case. He coats with the chain oil, and it works. I've heard good things from others about it.
Same thing with the wax (or mucilin), there are people who gave their duck guns a coat at the start of the season, and not do anything else until it is over. Works too; water beads up on it, no rust, mud wipes off easily.
There are a lot of products you can use, whether very expensive "for gun" stuff, or much cheaper "generic" stuff... and let's be honest- most of the "gun stuff" is simply repackaged to sell for a huge profit. That's both for external protection and for lubrication.
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