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Message
I have a question about hub bearings (Silverado) UPDATED** pg 2
Posted on 4/12/18 at 8:32 am
Posted on 4/12/18 at 8:32 am
I have to change my front, driver’s side hub bearing.. I was wondering, should I change both sides at the same time if only one is giving me a problem? Or should I just wait til the other one goes out as well?
TIA, love y’all
TIA, love y’all
This post was edited on 4/13/18 at 6:32 pm
10
Posted on 4/12/18 at 8:34 am to Mr. Hangover
Just wait. I've had to change my driver side twice. Never had to change my passenger.
Posted on 4/12/18 at 8:35 am to Mr. Hangover
I'd change both sides ,you wont have to do it later.
Posted on 4/12/18 at 8:37 am to Mr. Hangover
Be sure to rent the necessary tool. I watched my roommate struggle for hours every day after work for a week until he rented the wrench, and then it took him like an hour or two to do.
Posted on 4/12/18 at 8:37 am to Mr. Hangover
I would only change the one that's going out. The other side might not ever give you a problem.
No way I'm waiting, it probably sounds like the truck is falling apart!
No way I'm waiting, it probably sounds like the truck is falling apart!
Posted on 4/12/18 at 8:37 am to BeauCephus307
Alright cool.. so they don’t wear out evenly
I was driving yesterday, and out of nowhere, it sounded like I was dragging a stick over concrete/metal, then it went away.. started again a minute later when I made a left turn and has been spotty ever since.. I drove it to work today (5 min ride, with little/no traffic) because I had to, so hopefully it will get me home today without the wheel coming off
I was driving yesterday, and out of nowhere, it sounded like I was dragging a stick over concrete/metal, then it went away.. started again a minute later when I made a left turn and has been spotty ever since.. I drove it to work today (5 min ride, with little/no traffic) because I had to, so hopefully it will get me home today without the wheel coming off
Posted on 4/12/18 at 8:39 am to DownSouthDave
Nah dave, I reread what I posted and that came out wrong, the bad one is coming off ASAP - I just wasn’t sure if I should change the other one IN ADDITION TO the bad one
What tool? Should only be wrenches, screwdrivers, and a maul to get the rotor off
quote:
Be sure to rent the necessary tool.
What tool? Should only be wrenches, screwdrivers, and a maul to get the rotor off
This post was edited on 4/12/18 at 8:41 am
Posted on 4/12/18 at 8:40 am to Mr. Hangover
Scariest sound ever
Posted on 4/12/18 at 8:42 am to BeauCephus307
You ain’t lyin
The funny part is, it was so hard to tell where it was coming from at first.. at first I thought it was the brakes/rotors, then it sounded like it was coming from directly underneath my truck... I had no clue at first -
my truck has held up well.. it’s an 05 with 125K miles on it
The funny part is, it was so hard to tell where it was coming from at first.. at first I thought it was the brakes/rotors, then it sounded like it was coming from directly underneath my truck... I had no clue at first -
my truck has held up well.. it’s an 05 with 125K miles on it
Posted on 4/12/18 at 8:43 am to Mr. Hangover
You change the whole hub assembly, not just the bearings. You get a clean new ABS sensor, and it is 1000x easier.
I've only ever done one side at a time
I've only ever done one side at a time
Posted on 4/12/18 at 8:43 am to BeauCephus307
I changed one out then 8 months later changed the other. No problems for the next 100k Miles.
Posted on 4/12/18 at 8:45 am to Hammertime
You’re right. I even ordered the whole assembly.. not sure why I worded the OP like I did
Posted on 4/12/18 at 9:10 am to Mr. Hangover
It's a relatively easy swap, so I wouldn't do both at the same time. What gets me every damn time is remembering which way the dust cover goes back on. I've taken them off of GM trucks so many times, but I still can't figure the damn things out without pictures
Don't forget to anti-seize and loctite the spots that need it
Don't forget to anti-seize and loctite the spots that need it
Posted on 4/12/18 at 9:16 am to Mr. Hangover
just had to change one the other day on my 2002 1500HD with 177,000 miles. I was headed to the camp(300 mile drive) and bout half way passenger side went out. Luckily I was close to an O'reillys and pulled in there and just changed it in the parking lot. Really not a hard job and just do the bad side the other one may never go out. New one is prob around $250-280 and no core charge unfortunately. But it is a pretty easy job. If your truck is 4x4 make sure you pull the axle nut BEFORE you jack the truck up it is way easier to break it loose(will need a 36mm socket and a breaker bar or impact), jack up that side, get tire off, use large C clamp to compress the breaks do not beat them loose with a maul you can get a clamp on them just takes somme wiggling, pull the 4 bolts holding the old bearing on which you will likely need the breaker bar here too and I think that was a 15mm socket for those. Stick new one on, breaks back on, tire back on axle nut back on and good to go. Keep in mind you will not have breaks immediately after this so pump the breaks a fews times till they get tight again.
unrelated to that about 20 miles further up the road had a tire balloon on me. They are 8 year old BFG ATs so its past time to replace but still had over half tread so been just running them. Vibrated my way on up there and bought a new set while there. Turned into an dern expensive trip.
unrelated to that about 20 miles further up the road had a tire balloon on me. They are 8 year old BFG ATs so its past time to replace but still had over half tread so been just running them. Vibrated my way on up there and bought a new set while there. Turned into an dern expensive trip.
This post was edited on 4/12/18 at 9:18 am
Posted on 4/12/18 at 9:28 am to Jvalhenson
I appreciate the advice.. I’ve done my brakes, changed rotors, pads, etc so I’m not going into this blind. I just wasn’t sure if I should change both sides at the same time
My truck is 2x4 - I found the assembly with the new ABS cable for right at $100 at NAPA
We’ve all had a trip or two like that... I’m sure it was a pain in the arse
My truck is 2x4 - I found the assembly with the new ABS cable for right at $100 at NAPA
We’ve all had a trip or two like that
... I’m sure it was a pain in the arseThis post was edited on 4/12/18 at 9:30 am
Posted on 4/12/18 at 9:30 am to Jvalhenson
I've been fortunate with my 99 (250,000+ miles). Some bodywork over the years and a brake caliber set, and a heater core. Other than that it's still running good.
Posted on 4/12/18 at 9:53 am to Mr. Hangover
quote:
What tool?
I could not wiggle my hub assembly off by hand. Autozone, Oreillys, etc. will loan you a tool to help press the hub assembly off. I think its called a hub puller?? not sure... makes the job much easier.
Posted on 4/12/18 at 10:01 am to Mr. Hangover
I would do all at once
Posted on 4/12/18 at 10:10 am to Wtodd
I'd make sure and put a US-made bearing assembly in there, no Chinese junk if possible.
Posted on 4/12/18 at 10:16 am to Mr. Hangover
go watch some ChrisFix youtube videos on it and you will be able to change it in a few minutes. Might as well do both.
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