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Message
Have a question about newly cleared land
Posted on 11/10/26 at 9:02 am
Posted on 11/10/26 at 9:02 am
I’ve had a field cleared with a forestry mulcher and wanted to see what y’all think is the next best step.
I will say that there are several ruts in the field from where tree cutting machinery used the field to load wood when the field next to it was clear cut before I bought it.
The ground currently is completely covered with pine straw and sweet gum tree trunks that are 1-2” in diameter.
I have a tractor with a bucket, disk and a land plane with scarifiers. And a mini excavator with several attachments.
The ruts are not terrible and would be easy to run the disk over them to help smooth them but I’m not 100% sure with all the wood on the ground.
I was thinking bout getting the ruts smoothed and then disk it all.
Will the wood on the ground and remaining small stumps be much of an issue you think?
I will say that there are several ruts in the field from where tree cutting machinery used the field to load wood when the field next to it was clear cut before I bought it.
The ground currently is completely covered with pine straw and sweet gum tree trunks that are 1-2” in diameter.
I have a tractor with a bucket, disk and a land plane with scarifiers. And a mini excavator with several attachments.
The ruts are not terrible and would be easy to run the disk over them to help smooth them but I’m not 100% sure with all the wood on the ground.
I was thinking bout getting the ruts smoothed and then disk it all.
Will the wood on the ground and remaining small stumps be much of an issue you think?
Posted on 11/10/26 at 9:05 am to bbvdd
If you’ve got the gas money, whether you do it right or not, you’re going to likely have some fun. Remember that.
After a hard day, I like to bush hog and fight all the noise with noise.
After a hard day, I like to bush hog and fight all the noise with noise.
Posted on 11/10/26 at 9:06 am to bbvdd
Forgot to add, I’d love to cut fire lanes and burn it but have a burn ban in place right now, so that’s out.
Posted on 11/10/26 at 9:31 am to bbvdd
What are you wanting to use this land for? If for hunting/wildlife I would let it be for the most part.
Posted on 11/10/26 at 9:33 am to TimeOutdoors
The plan is to plant it for a dove field in the summer and will have plant some with food plot seeds in the fall (not alll of it mind you).
Leaving it is not an option. It was so thick, a persons could not even think about walking through it.
Leaving it is not an option. It was so thick, a persons could not even think about walking through it.
This post was edited on 11/10/26 at 9:36 am
Posted on 11/10/26 at 11:06 am to bbvdd
How big is the field.?
I had a 5 acre field I had mulched,about a million sweetgums came up.What I’m did is bushhog a opening in the middle ,about an acre and then several lanes from the edges coming into the middle,from W,N& E sides.
Stand is on S side.
In my experience disking with dead saplings on the ground doesn’t go very well.
My plan was to rake the ground with a box blade with the scarifiers dropped
down to break up the soil a little to plant seeds but it’s been so dry I didn’t bother,
Maybe next year.
I had a 5 acre field I had mulched,about a million sweetgums came up.What I’m did is bushhog a opening in the middle ,about an acre and then several lanes from the edges coming into the middle,from W,N& E sides.
Stand is on S side.
In my experience disking with dead saplings on the ground doesn’t go very well.
My plan was to rake the ground with a box blade with the scarifiers dropped
down to break up the soil a little to plant seeds but it’s been so dry I didn’t bother,
Maybe next year.
This post was edited on 11/10/26 at 11:12 am
Posted on 11/10/26 at 11:33 am to bbvdd
We had a few acres cleared recently and I used a 3pt 8’ chain harrow on the tractor to rake up a bunch of pine tree roots and brush. It did a good job but as more roots start to decay it’ll be easier. We didn’t have it mulched though. I’d imagine a chain harrow or rake would clean that up. I wouldn’t disc all that bark into the soil. I’d think that would plummet the pH of it. Someone with more knowledge may know more than me though.
Posted on 11/10/26 at 12:46 pm to LSUA 75
quote:
How big is the field.?
The field is 20 acres but only 7-8 acres cleared so far.
I’m working on some of the ruts today with the excavator
Posted on 11/10/26 at 12:50 pm to bbvdd
I would run a disc over it really good. Then let it be for aboout two years then start a yearly burning rotation. Unless your want to use it for somehthing specific. In that case go through it with a root rake and some more pushing the big stuff into piles.
Posted on 11/10/26 at 1:52 pm to bbvdd
Every stump in the ground that can re sprout is going to in the spring. You need to figure out to mitigate for that because nature is going to nature.
Smoke it with imazapyr and glyphosate in the spring as soon as it starts to green back up. After one summer of hot temps those stumps will be crusty and broken down a lot more and much easier to disk up/ work the soil.
Unless you have a heavy duty (and heavy) site prep type disk, disking up green stumpage and fresh mulch is going to be hell and prepare yourself for something to break more than once.
In my experienced opinion, mulching is not always the best way to clear land if your goal is to put a plow/harrow in the ground asap. It's great for a year out after you can treat stump regrowth and have them sit and dry out for a summer, or if you're converting it to pasture land, but not so great for immediate tillage with standard equipment found on most recreational properties. It's better to have the slash bulldozed and windrowed/buried and have a clean slate. Of course that has its own down side because of topsoil removal and bare earth in hilly terrain.
Every property that is able should keep a good fire lane around the property. Once you kill the re growth of woody plants you can put the land on burn cycles and watch the flora and fauna flourish from the native habitat.
Smoke it with imazapyr and glyphosate in the spring as soon as it starts to green back up. After one summer of hot temps those stumps will be crusty and broken down a lot more and much easier to disk up/ work the soil.
Unless you have a heavy duty (and heavy) site prep type disk, disking up green stumpage and fresh mulch is going to be hell and prepare yourself for something to break more than once.
In my experienced opinion, mulching is not always the best way to clear land if your goal is to put a plow/harrow in the ground asap. It's great for a year out after you can treat stump regrowth and have them sit and dry out for a summer, or if you're converting it to pasture land, but not so great for immediate tillage with standard equipment found on most recreational properties. It's better to have the slash bulldozed and windrowed/buried and have a clean slate. Of course that has its own down side because of topsoil removal and bare earth in hilly terrain.
Every property that is able should keep a good fire lane around the property. Once you kill the re growth of woody plants you can put the land on burn cycles and watch the flora and fauna flourish from the native habitat.
Posted on 11/10/26 at 2:03 pm to mudshuvl05
I do have a 300 g 3 pt sprayer that I plan to spray everything with in the spring.
Also, my disk is quite heavy. The disk themselves are around 1/2” thick and the disk is probably 2000-2500 lbs. May not be quite that heavy but it is very stout and 7ft wide.
You’ve pretty much confirmed my thoughts that this would not be ready next year. I didn’t think it would be just hopeful imagination.
I’ve spent my time this morning building burn piles of the downed trees.
Also, my disk is quite heavy. The disk themselves are around 1/2” thick and the disk is probably 2000-2500 lbs. May not be quite that heavy but it is very stout and 7ft wide.
You’ve pretty much confirmed my thoughts that this would not be ready next year. I didn’t think it would be just hopeful imagination.
I’ve spent my time this morning building burn piles of the downed trees.
Posted on 11/10/26 at 2:08 pm to bbvdd
quote:
Leaving it is not an option. It was so thick, a persons could not even think about walking through it.
Personally, I would draw out a masterplan making sure I had ways to approach a couple areas regardless of the wind direction, I would leave a large section undisturbed, and yes, it will be so thick you can't walk through it. The deer will get far more from browsing these areas than they will from the food plots. More importantly, these thick areas are what will keep bucks on your property instead of your neighbors. When the trees start to grow/thin out I would even go back in and hinge cut several areas to increase the amount of browse.
Do you have a water source on the property?
Posted on 11/10/26 at 2:25 pm to TimeOutdoors
quote:
The deer will get far more from browsing these areas than they will from the food plots. More importantly, these thick areas are what will keep bucks on your property instead of your neighbors. When the trees start to grow/thin out I would even go back in and hinge cut several areas to increase the amount of browse.
The entire bottom that I own is 40 acres. I plan on having 15 of it cleared the remaining 25 will be heavy thick stuff. I’ve got plenty of bedding areas.
I do have a water source. There is a 10 acre lake on the property.
Also the sweetgums that you see in the pic I’ve been cutting them down and spraying t the stump with crossbow.
This post was edited on 11/10/26 at 2:28 pm
Posted on 11/10/26 at 8:46 pm to bbvdd
You have two options here, a quick and more expensive field or a cheap field that gets right in three or so years.
For the quick option you’ll need to pile/burn, root rake, test/treat the soil, and then disc and plant what you want.
For the cheap option you don’t touch it at all, and then burn each winter until the field establishes on its own. The roots in the ground and everything else will slowly burn off each year. Once the field is cuttable grass then you can disc and plant.
No matter which way you do it, you will eventually wind up with the same outcome.
For the quick option you’ll need to pile/burn, root rake, test/treat the soil, and then disc and plant what you want.
For the cheap option you don’t touch it at all, and then burn each winter until the field establishes on its own. The roots in the ground and everything else will slowly burn off each year. Once the field is cuttable grass then you can disc and plant.
No matter which way you do it, you will eventually wind up with the same outcome.
This post was edited on 11/11/26 at 6:40 am
Posted on 11/10/26 at 9:15 pm to bbvdd
Dozer and root rake.....bury what you rake up
Posted on 11/11/26 at 6:46 am to bbvdd
Do you really want all those trees? Consider that also, I’m assuming you left them for a reason. But it’s a hell of a lot easier to deal with small trees than to deal with those small trees in 5 years and 10 years
Posted on 11/11/26 at 7:03 am to baldona
Some of those trees look like sweet gum?
Posted on 11/11/26 at 7:32 am to baldona
quote:
Do you really want all those trees? Consider that also, I’m assuming you left them for a reason. But it’s a hell of a lot easier to deal with small trees than to deal with those small trees in 5 years and 10 years
I’ve been cutting them down and spraying the stump with crossbow. I cut most everything in the first 50-100 yds y-day.
quote:
Some of those trees look like sweet gum?
There are a few pines and oak and everything else are sweet gums.
Posted on 11/11/26 at 7:53 am to bbvdd
Our rule of thumb is to kill every gum tree we can without exception. Zero wildlife benefit and will spread invasively.

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