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Started By
Message
re: Cost to clear land
Posted on 2/18/13 at 4:33 pm to poule deau
Posted on 2/18/13 at 4:33 pm to poule deau
It's all just a notion right now. But other than potential wetlands cost it appears to cost about what I had in my mind it would.
2
Posted on 2/18/13 at 4:36 pm to braindeadboxer
Where is the land located?
Posted on 2/18/13 at 5:04 pm to braindeadboxer
quote:
potential wetlands cost
This would only be a concern for areas that you are developing. If it is hardwoods, you have a decent chance of not messing with wetlands. If you know anybody in the environmental consulting industry, an hour walking the 17 acres could save you thousands down the road. You would have to pay for an "official" wetlands delineation, but anyone who has done one could at least give you an idea of what you're getting into before you buy the land by just walking the site.
Posted on 2/18/13 at 5:21 pm to braindeadboxer
quote:
Maybe Downshift will do it for free if I give him the wood.
This post was edited on 2/18/13 at 5:24 pm
Posted on 2/18/13 at 5:28 pm to The Last Coco
Really there are only three things that make something a wetland. Hydric soils, Hydric plants, and anything seasonally flooded. If you say whereabouts the property is, we can probably figure it out. It can get extremely expensive to mitigate wetlands, and a whole lot of time and paperwork. Give the area and we can look it up on the WSS or you can do the same.
Pushing over hardwoods is not as easy as everyone is making out to be. A D8, deere 950, or bigger does a decent job. Having a big root rake/ripper helps with the stumps. Anything less and you will have to be digging at roots to cut them just to push the tree over which takes forever. I have screwed around with a 16" tree for 15 minutes just to push it over.
If you are gonna own 17ac, a good saw(not from big box store) should be on your list of things to buy. Stihl 460 works well for everything.
Eta: soil is the determining factor in 95% of deciding if something is a wetland or not
Pushing over hardwoods is not as easy as everyone is making out to be. A D8, deere 950, or bigger does a decent job. Having a big root rake/ripper helps with the stumps. Anything less and you will have to be digging at roots to cut them just to push the tree over which takes forever. I have screwed around with a 16" tree for 15 minutes just to push it over.
If you are gonna own 17ac, a good saw(not from big box store) should be on your list of things to buy. Stihl 460 works well for everything.
Eta: soil is the determining factor in 95% of deciding if something is a wetland or not
This post was edited on 2/18/13 at 5:29 pm
Posted on 2/18/13 at 6:05 pm to TexasTiger
quote:Or hire one.
Or put that money toward a dozer rental
Posted on 2/18/13 at 6:08 pm to pdubya76
quote:
We did this 2 years ago.We had a logger come in and clear cut 4.5 acres of planation pines.We then hired a guy with a trackhoe with a thumb and a dozer to dig all the stumps out and bury them.I used the dirt to build my house pad.He was there for 5.5 days and it cost 5500 for both machines for the week.That included fuel and transport.He did some other clearing while he was there also.
What dirt? Posted on 2/18/13 at 6:13 pm to Geauxtiga
quote:
What dirt?
From the hole were he will have one hell of a sink hole in time.
Posted on 2/18/13 at 6:16 pm to fishfighter
Well I didn't see where he'd gotten any "extra dirt" especially when he "buried" the stumps.
Posted on 2/18/13 at 6:37 pm to Geauxtiga
You mean the future sinkhole that will need to be filled in unless he wants a Nascar style pond?
He's got some pretty good looking fake deer he puts around that thing. I guess the camera adds 10lbs and 2pts
He's got some pretty good looking fake deer he puts around that thing. I guess the camera adds 10lbs and 2pts
Posted on 2/18/13 at 6:48 pm to wickowick
I'll give my first OB wetland consult for free. Send me a map. Tenfoetenfoe at gmail
Posted on 2/18/13 at 7:16 pm to tenfoe
Personal opinion is you don't want to cut the trees where the actual house will sit. For the yard area that will be fine. The house pad area should be cleared via trackhoe and dozer with the entire stump and rootball removed. Fill dirt placed and compacted via dozer to the specs required by engineer who designs the slab (if using post tension slab). The rotting roots will over time cause the soil to contract, weakening the foundation of the house.
I am not a builder or engineer but I have constructed 2 houses on wooded lots.
I am not a builder or engineer but I have constructed 2 houses on wooded lots.
Posted on 2/18/13 at 7:22 pm to pdubya76
quote:
Where is the land located?
It is located on the Pointe Coupee / Iberville Parish border near Erwinville south of Hwy 190.
Posted on 2/18/13 at 7:53 pm to braindeadboxer
Before you spend one dime on this, you need to go to the health department and have them to a percolation test on the land unless you are going to tie into an existing sewer line. If the land doesn't pass a perc test, then you can't build on it.
Posted on 2/18/13 at 7:59 pm to BFIV
quote:What about if he put a HOOT Treatment system in the ground?
Before you spend one dime on this, you need to go to the health department and have them to a percolation test on the land unless you are going to tie into an existing sewer line. If the land doesn't pass a perc test, then you can't build on it.
This post was edited on 2/18/13 at 8:00 pm
Posted on 2/18/13 at 8:03 pm to Geauxtiga
quote:
What about if he put a HOOT Treatment system in the ground?
Have no idea what that is. We just have regular old outhouses here in Virginia.
Posted on 2/18/13 at 8:11 pm to BFIV
I was thinking an outhouse and a 1950's model trailer would be fine
Posted on 2/18/13 at 9:04 pm to braindeadboxer
Soil is called sharkey clay. No mitigation is necessary there, but it is considered a wetland. Most of it used to be for crops or cows and for some reason, the Corps doesn't require it on those sites. I have select cut 1000s of acres in that area off of 190 with no problems.
Make sure you get the work done between March and July because it is just too wet for equipment and trucks to drive anywhere. Also, the first thing you should do is get a quality road built(we used oyster shells, large limestone chunks, and a mix of both with random bricks thrown in there). It needs to support trucks and not be slippery.
I would build a raised house because the soil just moves so much. It is called a shrink-swell clay, and it does just that. When you see it looking like the salt flats peeling up, you will know what I mean.
Interesting facts about that soil type:
It makes your tires blue when you go mud riding in it
It opens up cracks when it dries out to get nutrients down into the soil
Very slippery when wet
Make sure you get the work done between March and July because it is just too wet for equipment and trucks to drive anywhere. Also, the first thing you should do is get a quality road built(we used oyster shells, large limestone chunks, and a mix of both with random bricks thrown in there). It needs to support trucks and not be slippery.
I would build a raised house because the soil just moves so much. It is called a shrink-swell clay, and it does just that. When you see it looking like the salt flats peeling up, you will know what I mean.
Interesting facts about that soil type:
It makes your tires blue when you go mud riding in it
It opens up cracks when it dries out to get nutrients down into the soil
Very slippery when wet
Posted on 2/18/13 at 9:21 pm to Hammertime
quote:
Soil is called sharkey clay. No mitigation is necessary there, but it is considered a wetland. Most of it used to be for crops or cows and for some reason, the Corps doesn't require it on those sites. I have select cut 1000s of acres in that area off of 190 with no problems.
You have just made it clear that when it comes to wetlands and how they are regulated, you haven't a damn clue.
OP, please don't just plow down the freaking woods without getting advice from a consultant. It could end up being costly.
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