Started By
Message

Building a porch/deck

Posted on 3/20/18 at 1:10 pm
Posted by The Donald
Member since Jun 2013
319 posts
Posted on 3/20/18 at 1:10 pm
Building a small wooden front porch that will be exposed to some weather (it’s partially covered)
What type of lumber should I use for the “floor” of it?
-Iys not going to be painted, but it’s gojng to be stained to match a stained wooden front door.
Thanks!
Posted by bootlegger
Ponchatoula
Member since Dec 2012
5337 posts
Posted on 3/20/18 at 1:13 pm to
I used 5/4 treated deck boards
Posted by Easternrio
Member since May 2014
3755 posts
Posted on 3/20/18 at 1:14 pm to
^ This
Posted by The Donald
Member since Jun 2013
319 posts
Posted on 3/20/18 at 1:29 pm to
Any issues with staining these boards being that they’re treated?
Posted by wickowick
Head of Island
Member since Dec 2006
45809 posts
Posted on 3/20/18 at 1:32 pm to
They stain fine. I use the 6" long foam rollers. Look at using TWP stains
Posted by fishfighter
RIP
Member since Apr 2008
40026 posts
Posted on 3/20/18 at 7:05 pm to
When you install them if you go that way, make dam sure you install the crown down. If you don't know what that is, let me know. Also, tap a nail in between each board to space them. The boards will shrink as they dry, giving you more gap.
Posted by bctiger6
NOLA
Member since Jul 2007
1355 posts
Posted on 3/20/18 at 7:48 pm to
Go with composite lumber and you’ll never have to worry about rot or restraining it every couple years. Not all the boards will be perfectly treated. More $ upfront but it’s worth it imo
This post was edited on 3/20/18 at 7:50 pm
Posted by Drop4Loss
Birds Eye Of Deaf Valley
Member since Oct 2007
3864 posts
Posted on 3/20/18 at 8:12 pm to
I replaced a big rear yard 2x4 treated pine deck 2 years ago with the composite boards

Its really bad arse and comes in many colors. Easy to clean and there are no visible nails or screws. It uses clips and screws on an inside grouved slot

Pricey but it will look good for a while
Posted by bootlegger
Ponchatoula
Member since Dec 2012
5337 posts
Posted on 3/20/18 at 8:47 pm to
Just wait a few weeks after installing so they're not so wet
Posted by keakar
Member since Jan 2017
30020 posts
Posted on 3/21/18 at 12:37 am to
just to put it out there, they have lots of people selling relatively brand new extra unused or short term used fema trailer porches for around $300.

they are completely done, and most of the sellers can arrange delivery and placement if you want, and you want it delivered for you, because they are heavy as shite when assembled whole.

LINK
This post was edited on 3/21/18 at 12:48 am
Posted by saray
Member since May 2014
458 posts
Posted on 3/21/18 at 8:43 am to
better wait a good while until they are completely dry
Posted by NASA_ISS_Tiger
Huntsville, Al via Sulphur, LA
Member since Sep 2005
7981 posts
Posted on 3/21/18 at 11:16 am to
quote:

crown


By that you mean the grain of the wood so where the grain is curved facing down...so when the wood dries and board has a natural tendency to curve...it won't curve up at the edges...if nailed/screwed down properly, it won't lift at all. That's a trick my dad taught me long ago. Also, 5/4 deck boards might tend to cup more than say a 2x6...that's why I went to 2x6 for all my decking. I found butting the boards up without spacing results in a good space later...but with the nail in between each board you can have a bigger gap and easier for things to drop through. But that's my personal experience. To each his own there.
Posted by SCwTiger
armpit of 'merica
Member since Aug 2014
5857 posts
Posted on 3/21/18 at 11:33 am to
I would put the crown up, so as to not have a bowl effect. There shouldn't be much crown on new boards, but if so it will only get worse if down and flatten if up. JMO
Posted by NASA_ISS_Tiger
Huntsville, Al via Sulphur, LA
Member since Sep 2005
7981 posts
Posted on 3/21/18 at 2:57 pm to
quote:

I would put the crown up, so as to not have a bowl effect


We are saying the same thing. You want the bowl of the concave side of the board facing down.

If you get center cut boards...there is very little crown but outside edge (near the bark) have tons of crown.
Posted by AthensTiger
Athens, GA
Member since Jul 2008
2977 posts
Posted on 3/21/18 at 8:09 pm to
I used Yellawood KDAT tongue and groove flooring. It will not let anything in from below the porch and looks good. But it probably costs more and rain water will not drain through the cracks. Just another idea.
Posted by The Donald
Member since Jun 2013
319 posts
Posted on 3/27/18 at 5:47 am to
Thanks for all of the replies!
Posted by fishfighter
RIP
Member since Apr 2008
40026 posts
Posted on 3/27/18 at 7:09 am to
quote:

I would put the crown up, so as to not have a bowl effect. There shouldn't be much crown on new boards, but if so it will only get worse if down and flatten if up. JMO


Never do that. The boards as they dry will cup up.
Posted by convertedtiger
Baton Rouge
Member since Aug 2010
2786 posts
Posted on 3/27/18 at 7:19 am to
I would usually wait around 60 days for the wood to dry and shrink before I stained. If the wood hasn't dried out properly, you will get a crappy looking stain job that may not stick or look splotchy.
Posted by caddysdad
Member since Oct 2015
275 posts
Posted on 3/27/18 at 10:57 am to
if you use 5/4 your joist spacing should be 16" not 24".
Posted by caddysdad
Member since Oct 2015
275 posts
Posted on 3/27/18 at 11:01 am to
what you refer to as crown is actually the cup fwiw. on composite boards in another thread, make sure you get screws that don't cause protrusions of the material and remember that composite boards get hot as hades in the sun.
first pageprev pagePage 1 of 2Next pagelast page

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on Twitter, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

FacebookTwitterInstagram