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Building a porch/deck
Posted on 3/20/18 at 1:10 pm
Posted on 3/20/18 at 1:10 pm
Building a small wooden front porch that will be exposed to some weather (it’s partially covered)
What type of lumber should I use for the “floor” of it?
-Iys not going to be painted, but it’s gojng to be stained to match a stained wooden front door.
Thanks!
What type of lumber should I use for the “floor” of it?
-Iys not going to be painted, but it’s gojng to be stained to match a stained wooden front door.
Thanks!
Posted on 3/20/18 at 1:13 pm to The Donald
I used 5/4 treated deck boards
Posted on 3/20/18 at 1:29 pm to bootlegger
Any issues with staining these boards being that they’re treated?
Posted on 3/20/18 at 1:32 pm to The Donald
They stain fine. I use the 6" long foam rollers. Look at using TWP stains
Posted on 3/20/18 at 7:05 pm to wickowick
When you install them if you go that way, make dam sure you install the crown down. If you don't know what that is, let me know. Also, tap a nail in between each board to space them. The boards will shrink as they dry, giving you more gap.
Posted on 3/20/18 at 7:48 pm to The Donald
Go with composite lumber and you’ll never have to worry about rot or restraining it every couple years. Not all the boards will be perfectly treated. More $ upfront but it’s worth it imo
This post was edited on 3/20/18 at 7:50 pm
Posted on 3/20/18 at 8:12 pm to bctiger6
I replaced a big rear yard 2x4 treated pine deck 2 years ago with the composite boards
Its really bad arse and comes in many colors. Easy to clean and there are no visible nails or screws. It uses clips and screws on an inside grouved slot
Pricey but it will look good for a while
Its really bad arse and comes in many colors. Easy to clean and there are no visible nails or screws. It uses clips and screws on an inside grouved slot
Pricey but it will look good for a while
Posted on 3/20/18 at 8:47 pm to The Donald
Just wait a few weeks after installing so they're not so wet
Posted on 3/21/18 at 12:37 am to The Donald
just to put it out there, they have lots of people selling relatively brand new extra unused or short term used fema trailer porches for around $300.
they are completely done, and most of the sellers can arrange delivery and placement if you want, and you want it delivered for you, because they are heavy as shite when assembled whole.
LINK
they are completely done, and most of the sellers can arrange delivery and placement if you want, and you want it delivered for you, because they are heavy as shite when assembled whole.
LINK
This post was edited on 3/21/18 at 12:48 am
Posted on 3/21/18 at 8:43 am to bootlegger
better wait a good while until they are completely dry
Posted on 3/21/18 at 11:16 am to fishfighter
quote:
crown
By that you mean the grain of the wood so where the grain is curved facing down...so when the wood dries and board has a natural tendency to curve...it won't curve up at the edges...if nailed/screwed down properly, it won't lift at all. That's a trick my dad taught me long ago. Also, 5/4 deck boards might tend to cup more than say a 2x6...that's why I went to 2x6 for all my decking. I found butting the boards up without spacing results in a good space later...but with the nail in between each board you can have a bigger gap and easier for things to drop through. But that's my personal experience. To each his own there.
Posted on 3/21/18 at 11:33 am to NASA_ISS_Tiger
I would put the crown up, so as to not have a bowl effect. There shouldn't be much crown on new boards, but if so it will only get worse if down and flatten if up. JMO
Posted on 3/21/18 at 2:57 pm to SCwTiger
quote:
I would put the crown up, so as to not have a bowl effect
We are saying the same thing. You want the bowl of the concave side of the board facing down.
If you get center cut boards...there is very little crown but outside edge (near the bark) have tons of crown.
Posted on 3/21/18 at 8:09 pm to The Donald
I used Yellawood KDAT tongue and groove flooring. It will not let anything in from below the porch and looks good. But it probably costs more and rain water will not drain through the cracks. Just another idea.
Posted on 3/27/18 at 5:47 am to AthensTiger
Thanks for all of the replies!
Posted on 3/27/18 at 7:09 am to SCwTiger
quote:
I would put the crown up, so as to not have a bowl effect. There shouldn't be much crown on new boards, but if so it will only get worse if down and flatten if up. JMO
Never do that. The boards as they dry will cup up.
Posted on 3/27/18 at 7:19 am to The Donald
I would usually wait around 60 days for the wood to dry and shrink before I stained. If the wood hasn't dried out properly, you will get a crappy looking stain job that may not stick or look splotchy.
Posted on 3/27/18 at 10:57 am to bootlegger
if you use 5/4 your joist spacing should be 16" not 24".
Posted on 3/27/18 at 11:01 am to fishfighter
what you refer to as crown is actually the cup fwiw. on composite boards in another thread, make sure you get screws that don't cause protrusions of the material and remember that composite boards get hot as hades in the sun.
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