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Started By
Message
boat trailer problem
Posted on 7/9/20 at 5:38 pm
Posted on 7/9/20 at 5:38 pm
boat trailer has breaks. when stopping/starting i get a BIG clunk/yank/bang on my truck. trailers rides great on interstate/hwy, fyi. break fluid reservoir is full. i’d like to attach pics but i’m technology challenged. this just started yesterday, help pls.
Posted on 7/9/20 at 5:45 pm to mack the knife
Theres a master cylinder with a linkage under the coupler. Make sure that's still connected
Posted on 7/9/20 at 5:50 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
thanks, i’m gona try that
Posted on 7/9/20 at 6:17 pm to mack the knife
It’s common with surge brakes.
Posted on 7/9/20 at 6:44 pm to mack the knife
Make sure the surge actuator on the front of the trailer has brake fluid.
Posted on 7/9/20 at 7:41 pm to EveryoneGetsATrophy
quote:
Make sure the surge actuator on the front of the trailer has brake fluid.
done
Posted on 7/9/20 at 7:46 pm to mack the knife
It's an extremely simple system. Theres a cylinder with the coupler being what pushes the cylinder in to apply pressure to the brake shoes. That snatch you feel is the coupler flopping around in the tongue when accelerating or braking.
Posted on 7/9/20 at 8:52 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
That snatch you feel is the coupler flopping around in the tongue when accelerating or braking.
This and yes they do break.
Posted on 7/9/20 at 9:03 pm to mack the knife
You said the fluid is full. Did you let it go dry? Good chance you just need fluid and to bleed the brakes. If that's not it, you have the actuator in the front and of course the brakes. If you're not able to change them yourself, it'll be costly (sorry to say)
Posted on 7/10/20 at 6:19 am to hophead
quote:
You said the fluid is full. Did you let it go dry?
no, i topped it off
Posted on 7/10/20 at 8:44 am to mack the knife
Some have a shock shock absorber that helps lessen the thud, I had to change mine a few years ago. It helped a lot.
Another thing to check is if there is air in the lines bc that will compress and allow the coupler to move more like a soft brake petal.
One other thing is to make sure the brakes are adjusted properly, it’s another thing that will let the coupler move more than needed.
A sticking wheel cylinder or caliper are famous for the jerk when taking off.
Master cylinder may need to be replaced.
If you have a sloppy receiver it will amplify it a lot, the best thing I did was buy one of those u bolt and plate thing that stop the rattle when not towing. It actually helped when towing.
You can also try stopping less aggressively and letting off the brakes and rolling a little before laying on the gas to let the trailer brakes release and the slack be take up on the coupler.
There will always be some clunk, it’s just the nature of surge brakes.
Another thing to check is if there is air in the lines bc that will compress and allow the coupler to move more like a soft brake petal.
One other thing is to make sure the brakes are adjusted properly, it’s another thing that will let the coupler move more than needed.
A sticking wheel cylinder or caliper are famous for the jerk when taking off.
Master cylinder may need to be replaced.
If you have a sloppy receiver it will amplify it a lot, the best thing I did was buy one of those u bolt and plate thing that stop the rattle when not towing. It actually helped when towing.
You can also try stopping less aggressively and letting off the brakes and rolling a little before laying on the gas to let the trailer brakes release and the slack be take up on the coupler.
There will always be some clunk, it’s just the nature of surge brakes.
Posted on 7/10/20 at 2:10 pm to mack the knife
I've had mine do that off and on. Sometimes the actuator is stuck.
Posted on 7/10/20 at 8:11 pm to td1
thanks but the breaking cylinders are doing NOTHING. i had ms mack (no pics) move the boat up and down the driveway while i sat in my truck bed and watched what was happening. there is NO resistance in the trailer tongue.
Posted on 7/10/20 at 8:30 pm to mack the knife
Blown master cylinder or broken actuator rod, or your lines are full of air.
Posted on 7/10/20 at 8:53 pm to td1
quote:
Blown master cylinder or broken actuator rod, or your lines are full of air.
Cant be much else. I suspect air since you needed to add fluid to it
Posted on 7/10/20 at 8:54 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
fyi: didnt need to add much, just a lite topping off
Posted on 7/10/20 at 9:37 pm to mack the knife
Well theres only two moving parts in this whole system: the master cylinder and the calipers or drum slave cylinders. If everything up front looks ok and seems to work like it should you'll have to go into the back. Something leaked somewhere which means air probably got in.
Posted on 7/10/20 at 9:39 pm to DownshiftAndFloorIt
quote:
Something leaked somewhere which means air probably got in.
no fluid on ground under the tires, so....
Posted on 7/11/20 at 3:29 am to mack the knife
The don’t hold much fluid. It could have been low enough to let air in.
If it is a wheel cylinder it could have been leaking a very small amount for a while that might not show on the ground.
You might want to pull the hub/drums on the axle w/ the brakes and check the cylinders.
Champion trailer in Slidell is where I got mine from. Decent prices at the time. I ordered two loaded backing plates.
LINK
If it is a wheel cylinder it could have been leaking a very small amount for a while that might not show on the ground.
You might want to pull the hub/drums on the axle w/ the brakes and check the cylinders.
Champion trailer in Slidell is where I got mine from. Decent prices at the time. I ordered two loaded backing plates.
LINK
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