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re: 35’6” Razorhead Cat Build

Posted on 12/14/21 at 8:28 am to
Posted by reds on reds on reds
Birmingham
Member since Sep 2013
4416 posts
Posted on 12/14/21 at 8:28 am to
quote:

I'm looking at a grey boat right now with 316 stainless bolts through custom made aluminum hinges.


Yeah I was the engineer over the fast response cutters at my old job and stainless hardware was used through aluminum everywhere and it held up fine enough. Now, paint and aluminum is an entirely different story.

CP3 I'm glad you mentioned it. I think with proper surface prep it should be fine.
Posted by cgrand
HAMMOND
Member since Oct 2009
43189 posts
Posted on 12/14/21 at 8:41 am to
quote:

Sometimes I use fabreeka pads under aluminum pieces that have large surface area when bolting to steel.

cut pieces of tire tube work as well
Posted by lsuson
Metairie
Member since Oct 2013
13825 posts
Posted on 12/14/21 at 9:35 am to
I think it’s underpowered by a lot. Also if one of those engines goes down your screwed coming in. At least with quads if one engine goes down you aren’t putting in at 10-15 knots.
Posted by Timmayy
Houston
Member since Mar 2016
1632 posts
Posted on 12/14/21 at 10:11 am to
The correct surface prep is tefgel no way around using that. I’ve already told him.

Trust me I’m having a nightmare of a time specing out thruhull fittings. Jory used a female 2” coupling. So to get the dissimilar metal desperation I’m looking at using either the truedesign or marlon valves but they need a 2” nps thread. Problem is go find me a 2” nps threaded nipple….


So I’m thinking I’m going to get a 4” npt threaded aluminum nipple cut one ends not threads off and bring it somewhere that will nps thread the rest of it for me. Think leave the other end npt since I’m sure Jory threaded it npt
This post was edited on 12/14/21 at 10:17 am
Posted by Flats
Member since Jul 2019
25250 posts
Posted on 12/14/21 at 10:58 am to
quote:

I'm looking at a grey boat right now with 316 stainless bolts through custom made aluminum hinges.


Through-bolted isn't terrible, especially if it gets a silicon spray or similar and stays relatively dry. It might corrode the hole out but there isn't enough surface area to lock anything up. What you want to absolutely avoid is male stainless threaded into female aluminum; it'll weld itself in short order. Closer to the waterline I've seen them mixed on planing tabs but you'd better zinc the hell out of the area.
Posted by reds on reds on reds
Birmingham
Member since Sep 2013
4416 posts
Posted on 12/14/21 at 11:06 am to
Sounds like you’re the reason he texted me asking if I can thread pipe with the rotary axis on the CNC
Posted by Timmayy
Houston
Member since Mar 2016
1632 posts
Posted on 12/14/21 at 2:44 pm to
Oh for sure. I’ve got some the guys at the plant threaded for me but I think I could do something cleaner with my pocket knife. But I’ve got some of all else fails.
Posted by Timmayy
Houston
Member since Mar 2016
1632 posts
Posted on 12/14/21 at 8:22 pm to
This is going to be a lot of work wasted if this is an utter failure… but one seachest mold coming up. First time working with poly and first time trying to make a mold and then subsequent parts from said mold.

Posted by CP3
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2009
7510 posts
Posted on 12/14/21 at 8:38 pm to
I’ll take one if it fits a contender and won’t cost me $1000 lol

Blows my mind how expensive those things are for what seems like a pretty simple box.
This post was edited on 12/14/21 at 8:40 pm
Posted by Timmayy
Houston
Member since Mar 2016
1632 posts
Posted on 12/14/21 at 8:56 pm to
Yeah but I started adding up the materials and it’s still pretty expensive I mean all those valves and fittings and pumps. But still 1000 at minimum is ridiculous.
Posted by Timmayy
Houston
Member since Mar 2016
1632 posts
Posted on 12/14/21 at 10:06 pm to
I swear I never say what the f**k am I doing more than when I’m doing fiberglass work.

Got the fairing compound on thiq like icing on a cake per Mr. Morejohn. We will see if he led me down a wrong path

Posted by CP3
Baton Rouge
Member since Sep 2009
7510 posts
Posted on 12/14/21 at 10:15 pm to
I thought about having an aluminum one fabbed up by a buddy, seems like basically a small aluminum box with some fittings shouldn’t be too much. But at the end of the day don’t really NEED one on our non-stepped hull.

And yeah fiberglass work sucks. I leave that to the pros because it is definitely not a skill I have
This post was edited on 12/14/21 at 10:17 pm
Posted by Timmayy
Houston
Member since Mar 2016
1632 posts
Posted on 12/14/21 at 10:17 pm to
I normally can do pretty good fiverglass work and fairing work. It’s the painting or gelcoat where I fall apart
Posted by avid lurker
houma
Member since May 2008
925 posts
Posted on 12/14/21 at 10:54 pm to
I could thread a nipple for you.
Posted by Timmayy
Houston
Member since Mar 2016
1632 posts
Posted on 12/15/21 at 7:07 pm to
I might take you up on that if it comes to it.

Dear god I thought the gf was going to have a fit when I woke up this morning and she said the whole house smelled like fumes. First time I’ve done work with poly and I think from now on I will do everything I can to use epoxy. This shite outs off a stank. Closed up in the garage I didn’t think it would get into the house but Jesus I was wrong. Luckily she was a trooper and by this afternoon it aired out enough to not be a problem.

First round of sanding, spent most of the time figuring out how best to try and sand it.

Hit a few hiccups related to my general inexperience with fiberglass and especially polyester. I made enough fairing compound in one batch to do the whole first fair which probably would have been fine but I spent so much time worrying about making nice clean radius and clean lines that I’m pretty sure I overworked the fairing compound and inhibited the waxes ability to rise to the surface and get a good cure. This caused the resin to stay a little gummy and clog up paper. I got most of it to the point where I can just fair ontop again but I still have a little to do. On the top flange where I just laid it up thick it cured hard like a rock so it tells me my mix was good I just need to be better about putting it down and leaving it alone.

I also realized I wasn’t going to kill myself trying to hand sand the inside radius and will just go get a cheap finger file sander that should make that process a lot better.

Overall I think it was a good first try and not a total failure.

May get a finger sander and do some more sanding tomorrow.

Posted by Tigah Jr
The Stick
Member since Oct 2011
846 posts
Posted on 12/15/21 at 7:26 pm to
Make sure to wear close toed shoes on an aluminum hull boat. Your toes will thank you.
Posted by bbvdd
Memphis, TN
Member since Jun 2009
26939 posts
Posted on 12/15/21 at 7:26 pm to
Looks good Timmayy
Posted by BFIV
Virginia
Member since Apr 2012
8320 posts
Posted on 12/15/21 at 7:41 pm to
Enjoying this thread and your progress. Haven't seen anyone mention this, but does this rig have any flotation? TIA
Posted by Timmayy
Houston
Member since Mar 2016
1632 posts
Posted on 12/15/21 at 7:43 pm to
It does not. But our buddy has an hvac company and does spray foam insulation on all his ductwork. We are thinking about using his rig to spray the insulation onto the fish boxes and the gunnel walls but keep it offf the bottom. May be more for rattle control than anything but would provide a bit of flotation
Posted by avid lurker
houma
Member since May 2008
925 posts
Posted on 12/15/21 at 8:16 pm to
Just let me know, I have plenty of material laying around. Always wanted to build a sea chest my self I just can’t find the time to tackle a project like that.
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