- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
Posted on 12/13/15 at 1:57 pm to Napoleon
It's an older Whirlpool top load washer. I've never had any problems with it before. I'll check the lid switch.
Posted on 12/13/15 at 1:59 pm to Napoleon
Just out of curiosity a few months back I checked the prices on the SQ units with mechanical timers. Seemed reasonable - $1600 or so for the set IIRC.
Posted on 12/13/15 at 2:05 pm to Civildawg
quote:
The cheap roper models? Seems like I heard you say they would be best bet if not a speed queen
The cheap Ropers now use the Vertical Modular Washer system that Whirlpool uses on the Cabrio and I hate the electronics.
As much as I hate GE electronics the best cheap washer and dryer right now is probably the Hot Points as they are the last of the analog timer units out there.
Telling people the best new units is not my best area as I don't do warranty work anymore, so the newest units I see are usually 2-3 years old.
I go to the conventions and training seminars and watch the tear downs and not what I do not like and I made six pages of notes on what I don't like on the new Whirlpool brand units (Whirlpool makes Maytag, KitchenAid, Amana, Roper, Admiral, JenAir and Kenmore laundry products)
Sadly all units now are made with really cheap electronics that are not cheap to replace. I can't even tell people they are better going top load now because so many of the newer top load use really crappy springs that cause issues down the line to support the drum. Everything hangs now a days, nothing seems to be attached to the frame.
Bearings go out at a high rate.
I honestly feel that sometime in the mid 2000's the appliance companies got together and decided to engineer their products to fail at a higher rate.
Now I tell you guys to get the stuff that lasts, but for job securty, I like what the manufacturers are doing. The crappier the machines the more we make.
Fixing a lid switch on a Washer may net me $65 after all said and done. Changing a actuator or a pump on a newer unit nets me closer to $175 for the same amount of time.
This post was edited on 12/13/15 at 2:08 pm
Posted on 12/13/15 at 2:06 pm to Civildawg
Rule of thumb on direct drive washers is always check the drive coupler first. Its a $10-$15 fix if this is the problem.
Often times the first clue is during the agitating phase because that is when the most pressure is put on the drive.
I suggest to replace the coupler first and rule that out before you do anything else. (#13 on the diagram)

Often times the first clue is during the agitating phase because that is when the most pressure is put on the drive.
I suggest to replace the coupler first and rule that out before you do anything else. (#13 on the diagram)

This post was edited on 12/13/15 at 2:07 pm
Posted on 12/13/15 at 2:10 pm to theenemy
twenty year old maytags are belt driven, Maytag didn't go direct drive until Whirlpool started making them.
You are correct though and that is why I prefer direct drive Whirlpool units to Maytag belt drive units. Those direct drive units are the best as far as dependability.
Though generally when the coupler fails it won't spin or agitate. as it;s just three teeth that spin a rubber ring, that in turn spins three plastic teeth. If it spins a full tub, then probably not the coupler.
Though the unit in question doesn't have a coupler.
Noticed the image cam from the Samaraui, best site for appliance stuff for sure.
It's more like this for a Maytag

You are correct though and that is why I prefer direct drive Whirlpool units to Maytag belt drive units. Those direct drive units are the best as far as dependability.
Though generally when the coupler fails it won't spin or agitate. as it;s just three teeth that spin a rubber ring, that in turn spins three plastic teeth. If it spins a full tub, then probably not the coupler.
Though the unit in question doesn't have a coupler.
Noticed the image cam from the Samaraui, best site for appliance stuff for sure.
It's more like this for a Maytag

This post was edited on 12/13/15 at 2:13 pm
Posted on 12/13/15 at 2:16 pm to Napoleon
quote:
twenty year old maytags are belt driven, Maytag didn't go direct drive until Whirlpool started making them.
Learn something new everyday.
Posted on 12/13/15 at 2:17 pm to Geaux2015
quote:
It's an older Whirlpool top load washer. I've never had any problems with it before. I'll check the lid switch.
You have jumper wires?
You will need to remove the end caps on the top of the console. If you have no end caps you will need to stick a paint scraper under the console to pop the console up to get to the switch connector. Simply unplug it and jump the two outside wires together.
or
LINK
If it works when jumped you have a bad lidswitch.
Posted on 12/13/15 at 2:26 pm to JoePepitone
Joe,did you know a Mike Pepitone, worked with him in the early eighties at a car dealership in Metairie.
Posted on 12/13/15 at 2:27 pm to TIGER2
I always figured the name was an homage to the baseball player. (names of sports figures are popular here)
Posted on 12/13/15 at 2:31 pm to Napoleon
Okay, not much of a baseball fan. Not many using a real name on here.
Posted on 12/13/15 at 2:32 pm to TIGER2
It's not my irl name. Like Nap said - I just borrowed it from the old baseball player.
Posted on 12/13/15 at 4:21 pm to Napoleon
As always, doing work in an appliance thread.
Posted on 12/13/15 at 4:33 pm to Napoleon
Not to hijack, but I've got a kenmore 70 series heavy duty from 1992. Great machine. The machine will agitate but won't spin. It still drains and you can hear the motor "rev" up, so I don't think it's the lid switch. I'm guessing it's either a coupler or that $45 part I can't remember at the moment.
Any thoughts or suggestions while I'm the cabinet is taken down? Any other cheap parts to replace or maintenance to do?
Any thoughts or suggestions while I'm the cabinet is taken down? Any other cheap parts to replace or maintenance to do?
Posted on 12/13/15 at 10:17 pm to Napoleon
Looked on Craigslist and found someone that has a kenmore 90 series for sale for 125. Most likely will go get it tomorrow
Posted on 12/13/15 at 10:53 pm to Napoleon
Do you know anyone that can repair a Samsung stove? SE error and we replaced the board to no avail.
Posted on 12/14/15 at 8:20 am to roux
Just bypass the lid switch and save yourself the $65.00 dollars. Plus that is a little high to replace on older machines.
Posted on 12/14/15 at 8:42 am to Napoleon
Recently bought a speed queen and love it. Have a 2003 Era whirlpool that leaks transmission fluid. Would it be worth fixing and giving to my daughter?
Recently purchased a 20 y/o may tag from a friend (grandmothers who passed away) for my sons apartment. $50. Thanks for the advice napoleon!!
Recently purchased a 20 y/o may tag from a friend (grandmothers who passed away) for my sons apartment. $50. Thanks for the advice napoleon!!
Posted on 12/14/15 at 9:26 am to Geaux2015
check the lid switch. won't spin if it thinks the lid is open
Popular
Back to top


1




