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Message
re: Washing machine repair
Posted on 12/14/15 at 9:36 am to GetBackToWork
Posted on 12/14/15 at 9:36 am to GetBackToWork
quote:
The machine will agitate but won't spin. It still drains and you can hear the motor "rev" up, so I don't think it's the lid switch. I'm guessing it's either a coupler or that $45 part I can't remember at the moment.
A 70 series motor spins the pump directly. I would check the coupler first and then spin the transmission by hand. In one direction as you spin it the tub should move while you move the transmission, in the other direction the agitator should come on. If this does not happen you have a transmission issue. The 45 dollar part you are thinking of is the clutch, while it could be at fault, it's main job is to activate the brake that stops the spinning drum at the end of the cycle.
Remove motor, check to see if trans works in both directions.
watch Jose' explain it here, he shows the inner workings and all.
This video will show you all the parts if you do the job yourself.
LINK
This post was edited on 12/14/15 at 9:42 am
Posted on 12/14/15 at 9:38 am to madamsquirrel
quote:
Would it be worth fixing and giving to my daughter?
how handy are you? Sounds like you just need to rebuild trans and use RTV sealant instead of gaskets.
I would not buy a new transmission for that model. It's a $200 Part + shipping.
Posted on 12/14/15 at 9:39 am to FlipNDipN
quote:
Just bypass the lid switch and save yourself the $65.00 dollars. Plus that is a little high to replace on older machines.
lid switches are less than $10 on amazon.
Posted on 12/14/15 at 9:40 am to roux
Posted on 12/14/15 at 11:53 am to Napoleon
Napoleon - This thread is right on time. I'm moving into a new house tomorrow and need a washer and dryer. Do you know the best place to get a speed queen set in Baton Rouge? and if not speed queen you said hotpoint? Single guy with very little laundry so I don't want to break the bank
. Thanks for bringing all of the knowledge 
Posted on 12/14/15 at 12:02 pm to lsugrad35
Go on Speed Queens website N
and find a dealer, you won't be disappointed.
and find a dealer, you won't be disappointed.
Posted on 12/14/15 at 12:07 pm to Civildawg
Make all efforts to keep your machine. New machines have so many government mandated restrictions they barely do anything to the clothes and take twice as long.
Posted on 12/14/15 at 12:36 pm to lsugrad35
quote:
Single guy with very little laundry so I don't want to break the bank
Go to Home Depot or Lowes and get the cheapest units there. What I suggest is get ones that have knobs, no buttons, and turn the knobs to see if you hear clicking noise or feel resistance. Mechanical timers will use more electricity and are less efficient but they last a lot longer and can be replaced for cheap.
I used to say get a direct drive washer, but new direct drives use a rotor stator, and while these don't have many issues and are relatively easy to replace, they only have it on higher end models.
You won't go wrong with a bargain basement big box brand. The cheapest Kenmore, GE/Hotpoint or Frigidaire will suit you fine.
I think when you start getting into more options the Frigidaire units are really good, but all of their dryers rely on a bearing that has a pretty high fail rate after a few years.
The cheaper units have cheaper less parts and less to break.
Generally the $399 special will outlast the $1300 high end unit with four electronic control boards.
Now in some ways the hot points are more cheaply built, a lot more plastic and things like that, but the upside is the standard GE (which is hotpoint) drum is the largest in it's class.
So of the cheap ones a hotpoint has a great capacity, will have cheap repairs when they are needed and will outlast other units.
If you can find a new Whirlpool or Roper that doesn't have a start button those are good as well, the ones with the start button are the VMW line and I never liked them.
Kenmore is Whirlpool but usually cheaper.
If you are close to Jefferson ,Louisiana (by Huey Long) there is this store 'Drye Supply' that has great deals on floor model and scratch and dent items. They also have some new stuff too, I find they have some of the best prices around.
I sell on Craigslist when I have things and I will warn people this, most who sell on Craigslist find items on the side of the road (which isn't that bad tbh) and then rig or fix only one part to get it going (which can be bad). I always believed you should tear down and check everything on a machine before you sell it. Most do not do this, and I find myself doing service calls or training calls as I call them for these parts changing monkeys who only know to change parts. So a lot of junk is out there as well.
Posted on 12/14/15 at 12:39 pm to Tigertracks
quote:
Make all efforts to keep your machine. New machines have so many government mandated restrictions they barely do anything to the clothes and take twice as long.
This too, Energy Star is to blame. Remeber when your washer filled a large tub of water and then agitated, now most lock the door so you can't even see the amount of water in the tub. Front loaders use very little as well.
Also power, a lot of people are using DC motors and three phase motors, which require inverters, transformers and what have you. All of these things are prone to failure under heat and vibration.
But then you make the machines spin faster to vibrate more and complete the cycle.
(machines spin faster so dryers work less, an electric dryer uses 4x the power of a gas dryer. So they try to cut down dry times)
Posted on 12/14/15 at 12:47 pm to Napoleon
quote:
Napoleon
I don't want to start a new thread, so I will just ask you here.
I need a new dishwasher and people keep saying they are a nightmare to install. I have installed all the stuff in my house except a dishwasher. Is there really anything to it other than pulling out the old on and hooking up a water supply line, drain line and power on the new one?
Posted on 12/14/15 at 12:50 pm to Napoleon
You can bypass it for nothing......All you need is some black tape and some wire nuts.
Also IMHO Speed Queens are junk.
Kenmore / Whirlpool.
Stay away from the front loaders.
Also IMHO Speed Queens are junk.
Kenmore / Whirlpool.
Stay away from the front loaders.
Posted on 12/14/15 at 12:53 pm to MrLarson
really isn't hard at all.
The only time it gets tricky is if you have granite counters with no wood or board to attach the dishwasher to.
You basically just
turn off water
turn off breaker for d/w power
un-hook drainline from disposol or sink drain
remove two mounting screws at top or side of dishwasher
remove the front panel from the dishwasher
remove power supply cover
un-hook wiring and wire-nuts from supply
from undersink remove water drain and fill hoses
lift from leveling screws if needed.
Now dishwasher is ready to slide out.
Once removed
remove fill and drain hose from d/w (if reusing hoses)
take new dishwasher and hook up water line and drain line. Depending on how much slack you have hook up power line, or push it back in first then hook up power supply.
After that you just pretty mush do everything the opposite of removal.
It isn't that bad.
There are some good youtube videos out there.
The only time it gets tricky is if you have granite counters with no wood or board to attach the dishwasher to.
You basically just
turn off water
turn off breaker for d/w power
un-hook drainline from disposol or sink drain
remove two mounting screws at top or side of dishwasher
remove the front panel from the dishwasher
remove power supply cover
un-hook wiring and wire-nuts from supply
from undersink remove water drain and fill hoses
lift from leveling screws if needed.
Now dishwasher is ready to slide out.
Once removed
remove fill and drain hose from d/w (if reusing hoses)
take new dishwasher and hook up water line and drain line. Depending on how much slack you have hook up power line, or push it back in first then hook up power supply.
After that you just pretty mush do everything the opposite of removal.
It isn't that bad.
There are some good youtube videos out there.
Posted on 12/14/15 at 12:57 pm to FlipNDipN
quote:
Also IMHO Speed Queens are junk
quote:
You can bypass it for nothing......All you need is some black tape and some wire nuts.
You can also not have it tight enough and burn up the connection, I have seen that before, rather a UL listed switch burn up than a connector and tape.
And while you can bypass it for nothing and honestly it doesn't really affect performance, it no longer stops when you lift the lid, if you have kids, that could be a safety hazard. Or maybe you just want to add some clothes.
Have I bypassed them? Yes
It's it fine? Yes
But in my opinion lid switches are just too cheap not to replace.
Also if you have a GE with the phase board motor you will screw it up bad if you just bypass it.
Though in no realm are the Vertical Modular Washers from Whirlpool better than Speed Queens. Maybe the 2016 line now that they finally did away with the actuator and the hall sensor, but not before that.
Posted on 12/14/15 at 1:02 pm to Napoleon
Awesome. Thanks so much, Napoleon.
Posted on 12/14/15 at 1:03 pm to Napoleon
Thanks so much for all of the info Napoleon. You're a true asset to the board
.
Side note: you ever get rid of any stainless baskets? I need a fire pit
Side note: you ever get rid of any stainless baskets? I need a fire pit
Posted on 12/14/15 at 5:21 pm to lsugrad35
quote:
you ever get rid of any stainless baskets? I need a fire pit
seriously/ if you are in the Kenner area I have one or two right now. When I strip a washer I usually hold on to them for firewoks season, but I have one I could give away.
Posted on 12/14/15 at 5:37 pm to Napoleon
Napoleon, I put this up a little while ago but I don't think you were online and I think the thread got anchored. Here's what I wrote:
As a long time lurker and new poster, I probably shouldn't ask for help yet but I will thinking you know exactly what's up. I have a Whirlpool Gold Gas Cooktop that has started to spark constantly on all burners when they are on the highest or lowest 1/4 of the control range. Doesn't seem to matter which burner, they all do it for some time until they've been run for some time after cleaning. After they've been cleaned, it is more like the top/ bottom 1/3rd of the control range but never better than +/-25%.
It lights fine, runs fine unless it doesn't which is on either end of the operating range.
Replace the cooktop? Replace a regulator of some sort? Replace the maid who insists on cleaning under the burners weekly? Use a different cleaner for the burners(Simple Green)?
Thanks in advance...
As a long time lurker and new poster, I probably shouldn't ask for help yet but I will thinking you know exactly what's up. I have a Whirlpool Gold Gas Cooktop that has started to spark constantly on all burners when they are on the highest or lowest 1/4 of the control range. Doesn't seem to matter which burner, they all do it for some time until they've been run for some time after cleaning. After they've been cleaned, it is more like the top/ bottom 1/3rd of the control range but never better than +/-25%.
It lights fine, runs fine unless it doesn't which is on either end of the operating range.
Replace the cooktop? Replace a regulator of some sort? Replace the maid who insists on cleaning under the burners weekly? Use a different cleaner for the burners(Simple Green)?
Thanks in advance...
Posted on 12/14/15 at 6:08 pm to Canard Noir
The burner ignitors are controlled by the switches at the base of the knobs. These switches complete the circuit when the knob is in the start (flame on) setting. What this does is send a 120v signal to the ignition module on the back of the stove (or under the range) This module is really a relay, which has neutral at all times and power only when you have the knob in the proper position.
For it to be sparking when the knob is in other positions points to the switch being stuck or gunked up.
In your situation, we would replace the ignitor switches.
LINK
Now if you were hearing the spark but not getting ignition, then I would blame your maid. Though sounds like she is preventing the a problem. A lot of burners get gunked up and it makes it hard for the spark to find a ground. No ground, no spark.
Now if you blow out your flame on simmer, does it light itself? If you have an auto-relight igniter it could be that causing the issue, but those are more common in really hind end appliances, Dacor, Thermador, but possibly a high end Whirlpool? wouldn't put it past them.
For it to be sparking when the knob is in other positions points to the switch being stuck or gunked up.
In your situation, we would replace the ignitor switches.
LINK
Now if you were hearing the spark but not getting ignition, then I would blame your maid. Though sounds like she is preventing the a problem. A lot of burners get gunked up and it makes it hard for the spark to find a ground. No ground, no spark.
Now if you blow out your flame on simmer, does it light itself? If you have an auto-relight igniter it could be that causing the issue, but those are more common in really hind end appliances, Dacor, Thermador, but possibly a high end Whirlpool? wouldn't put it past them.
Posted on 12/14/15 at 6:18 pm to Napoleon
Dude, you are awesome doing this for everyone.
I just tried blowing out the flame on simmer and it did try to reignite. So change the igniter?
I just tried blowing out the flame on simmer and it did try to reignite. So change the igniter?
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