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Refrigerator Repair Baws?
Posted on 2/7/18 at 8:38 am
Posted on 2/7/18 at 8:38 am
Basement auxillary fridge died wont run at all. The only thing that works is the interior light. Was about 400 at lowes had it 5 years. Call a repair man or just go by another. I think the service call is around 79.99 just to come look.
Posted on 2/7/18 at 8:41 am to golfntiger32
quote:
just go buy another
That's what I'd do. Why spend 20% of the fridge's value just on the service call itself, before any parts are purchased?
This post was edited on 2/7/18 at 8:42 am
Posted on 2/7/18 at 8:50 am to golfntiger32
It'll be more cost efficient to just go buy a new fridge, the mark up on appliance repair in comparison to just buying new, is atrocious
Posted on 2/7/18 at 8:55 am to Eric Stratton
quote:
It'll be more cost efficient to just go buy a new fridge, the mark up on appliance repair in comparison to just buying new, is atrocious
Local parts place wanted to charge me $140 for a new fan for my fridge. A little tiny piece of plastic with a little motor in it for $140. Outrageous.
Posted on 2/7/18 at 8:59 am to GetCocky11
Not worth the time or money anymore
Posted on 2/7/18 at 9:04 am to GetCocky11
quote:
Local parts place wanted to charge me $140 for a new fan for my fridge.
amazon probably has it for $25
Posted on 2/7/18 at 9:06 am to Eric Stratton
Thats what I am thinking. Just get a new one looks like Home Depot has similar size for about $450. If it is just a relay thinking the repair would be about $150. Plus comes with a year warranty on a new one.
Posted on 2/7/18 at 9:12 am to CoachChappy
quote:
amazon probably has it for $25
Probably. I try my best to support local businesses, but I have my limits.
Posted on 2/7/18 at 10:56 am to GetCocky11
So I did some digging on youtube and checked the defrost timer. It was stuck in defrost mode. Turned it with a screwdriver and now blows cold air and running. Looks like if I have to order the part it cost about $30 on amazon and is fairly easy to install.
Posted on 2/7/18 at 11:40 am to golfntiger32
Defrost timer is an easy fix. They get stuck all the time. Make sure to clean up the compressor. I have a crappy side by side with the compressor low on the ground. I have to clean it about every 6 months or the dust will get caked on.
Posted on 2/7/18 at 12:09 pm to golfntiger32
Just died.
Okay are any fans on?
If not your control is dead. If it's controlled by a timer you only have a $35 part to worry about, if a control board it's going to be more.
The toss out mentality is usually wrong.
Okay are any fans on?
If not your control is dead. If it's controlled by a timer you only have a $35 part to worry about, if a control board it's going to be more.
The toss out mentality is usually wrong.
Posted on 2/7/18 at 12:11 pm to GetCocky11
Some fans are insane. If it's an inside fridge fan at 110v always get a Sm999 fan. They're usually less than $10. May be a little louder but work.
On the flip, the new ge fans cost me $120 wholesale and I need to hook them up to a computer after I install.
On the flip, the new ge fans cost me $120 wholesale and I need to hook them up to a computer after I install.
Posted on 2/7/18 at 12:14 pm to golfntiger32
Defrost timers are cheap. Do not get rid if it. Defrost timers are mostly phased out by Adaptive Defrost controllers.
I purposely replaced my 2010 ge monogram to a 1998 Sub zero just to go back to all mechanical parts(that will always be cheap).
There are $300 fridges out there with $225 control boards.
I purposely replaced my 2010 ge monogram to a 1998 Sub zero just to go back to all mechanical parts(that will always be cheap).
There are $300 fridges out there with $225 control boards.
Posted on 2/7/18 at 12:22 pm to golfntiger32
here is the deal, it might be a $25-$50 part but add $80 labor and your at $105-$130 to fix it and you can buy a used one thats working fine for that money with no risk.
with the $80 service call, if he tells you its not fixible then that moneys semi-wasted.
i used to fix appliances and a/c work and its most likely something simple like a thermostat or defrost timer went bad.
if it was given to me free its worth my time to fix it only because i dont have to pay myself to do it but thats the honest answer.
very often people would give them to me, i spend $50 to fix them and resell them for $150-$200 after, but even then it wasnt like i made a lot of money doing it, i just did it because i hated throwing away good stuff, but it was just enough to pay for my time doing it.
if you cant fix it yourself its not "really" worth paying someone to fix it unless you are ok spending $150-$200 on it to be working fine again. if its a nice fridge then ok but a $400 one is the basic bargain model so ....
plus, it sounds crazy when your old one mom had lasted 30-40 years, but appliances today are designed to only last 5 years before wearing out and things start breaking. they just dont make anything to last at all. washers, driers, refrigerators, they are all built to last only 5 years at which time they expect you to buy a new one
with the $80 service call, if he tells you its not fixible then that moneys semi-wasted.
i used to fix appliances and a/c work and its most likely something simple like a thermostat or defrost timer went bad.
if it was given to me free its worth my time to fix it only because i dont have to pay myself to do it but thats the honest answer.
very often people would give them to me, i spend $50 to fix them and resell them for $150-$200 after, but even then it wasnt like i made a lot of money doing it, i just did it because i hated throwing away good stuff, but it was just enough to pay for my time doing it.
if you cant fix it yourself its not "really" worth paying someone to fix it unless you are ok spending $150-$200 on it to be working fine again. if its a nice fridge then ok but a $400 one is the basic bargain model so ....
plus, it sounds crazy when your old one mom had lasted 30-40 years, but appliances today are designed to only last 5 years before wearing out and things start breaking. they just dont make anything to last at all. washers, driers, refrigerators, they are all built to last only 5 years at which time they expect you to buy a new one
This post was edited on 2/7/18 at 12:27 pm
Posted on 2/7/18 at 12:23 pm to Napoleon
If you have time, try to fix yourself. Google your fridge model number along with the problem you are having. Usually you can figure out what exactly is wrong (bad thermostat, bad fan motor, etc). I just replaced my evaporator fan because it was making a funny noise. Found a video on youtube how to do it and it was a piece of cake. Only took me about 30 minutes and all I needed was a screwdriver and some pliers. The fan motor was like $30.
Posted on 2/7/18 at 12:25 pm to Napoleon
quote:
my 2010 ge monogram to a 1998 Sub zero just to go back to all mechanical parts(
Would this ever be a DIY thing you'd recommend for someone with decent skills? Like could you conceivibly buy a $35 mechanical control and jerry rig that into a unit with an Adaptive Defrost controller? I know you're a pro just wondering for the layman.
Posted on 2/7/18 at 12:29 pm to keakar
A lot of y'all recyclers cut corners on rebuilding the units for resale. Not all. But I have seen some incredible frankenstein machines.
Frankly if the only problem with a fridge is a fan, or a timer to toss it out would be insane. You're only putting dollars in a recyclers hand or cents in a scrapers.
The general rule if thumb is 35-50% of costs. Even Sears or Solar is going to be in that range on a simple fan or timer.
Frankly if the only problem with a fridge is a fan, or a timer to toss it out would be insane. You're only putting dollars in a recyclers hand or cents in a scrapers.
The general rule if thumb is 35-50% of costs. Even Sears or Solar is going to be in that range on a simple fan or timer.
Posted on 2/7/18 at 12:40 pm to Chuker
I swapped a high end four electric control fridge with a similar 48" sized but older control fridge. I cannot legally condone you to reverse engineer a fridge. I can just say in theory it isn't hard. Problem is newer units are insane on electrical. Like the new thing is to have three phrase 208 volt systems for the compressor. Then 5v fan systems.
So you can't just reuse wiring.
But I've built entire ge systems on to peg board to use while teaching. 90% of the electronics are crap.
You need power, neutral, ground in. Then power to compressor and fans, then something to interrupt that power for temperature and something to divert that power to the defrost system when needed.
Old units, use a single c chemical thermostat to limit run, then a timer that gives power to the cooling system for 8-10 hours then diverts power to the heater for 10-20 minutes.
There is a bimetal fuse that is usually set for 40-60 degrees at the top of the coils.
New units have 5-10 sensors, only melt ice when needed, only cool when needed and some are even dual evaporater.
Cool, great in theory but very complicated and pricey to repair.
Actually easier on our end. Most modern systems tell you what's wrong. Old machines you have to diagnose.
Though I can disgnose any fridge, with an ampmeter and a simple understanding or Ohm's law. (The amperage draw points to the issue most times, once you know the impedance of the internals)
So you can't just reuse wiring.
But I've built entire ge systems on to peg board to use while teaching. 90% of the electronics are crap.
You need power, neutral, ground in. Then power to compressor and fans, then something to interrupt that power for temperature and something to divert that power to the defrost system when needed.
Old units, use a single c chemical thermostat to limit run, then a timer that gives power to the cooling system for 8-10 hours then diverts power to the heater for 10-20 minutes.
There is a bimetal fuse that is usually set for 40-60 degrees at the top of the coils.
New units have 5-10 sensors, only melt ice when needed, only cool when needed and some are even dual evaporater.
Cool, great in theory but very complicated and pricey to repair.
Actually easier on our end. Most modern systems tell you what's wrong. Old machines you have to diagnose.
Though I can disgnose any fridge, with an ampmeter and a simple understanding or Ohm's law. (The amperage draw points to the issue most times, once you know the impedance of the internals)
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