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Started By
Message
re: O-T Mechanic Baws
Posted on 2/23/23 at 12:05 pm to Shanegolang
Posted on 2/23/23 at 12:05 pm to Shanegolang
If it is slipping then changing the fluid is not going to help and might make it worse.
You can get a trans on ebay for $1,000 probably. The car might not be worth much more than that but if nothing else is wrong with it that's still dang cheap transportation.
You can get a trans on ebay for $1,000 probably. The car might not be worth much more than that but if nothing else is wrong with it that's still dang cheap transportation.
0
Posted on 2/23/23 at 12:12 pm to Shanegolang
A fluid/filter change at this point is most likely not going to do you any good.
If the vehicle had the fluid/filter changed every 60,000 or so, it most likely wouldn’t be having these problems now.
If the vehicle had the fluid/filter changed every 60,000 or so, it most likely wouldn’t be having these problems now.
This post was edited on 2/23/23 at 12:14 pm
Posted on 2/23/23 at 1:44 pm to Hotgin
I assume it would be like any other clutch pack...
Drive-driven-drive-driven.
That means alternating steel and fiber disks.
I would bet if you have enough metal in the fluid to show up visually, you have a bad hard part, probably a bad bearing.
Drive-driven-drive-driven.
That means alternating steel and fiber disks.
I would bet if you have enough metal in the fluid to show up visually, you have a bad hard part, probably a bad bearing.
Posted on 2/23/23 at 1:55 pm to Macfly
quote:
Yep, a change is okay with the correct fluid, but don't flush and don't need any additives.
You still rolling that silver Corolla, or just running there and back?
Posted on 2/23/23 at 1:58 pm to Shanegolang
How much glitter is in that fluid?
Posted on 2/23/23 at 2:03 pm to Shanegolang
Does this mean crawfish prices are going up again?
Posted on 2/23/23 at 2:25 pm to LSUMANINVA
quote:
starting to slip
Probably too late. I follow AGCOautomotive's advice (based in BR) on drain and fill (never flush) per maintenance schedule or about every 50k.
Changing fluid gets a bad rap because of exactly situations like yours. Someone has a tranny that is starting to give some issues so they change the fluid. A month later the tranny fails so they blame the fluid change when its actually the pre-existing problems that finally come to bear.
Its never a bad thing to replace old fluid with deteriorated additives with new fluid with fresh additives. That goes for brake fluid, oil, coolant, ect. Just make sure to use the EXACT same type fluid as what the factory put in there. Dont become a chemist and starting mixing shite.
Posted on 2/23/23 at 2:40 pm to Shanegolang
I have always followed what the manufacturer recommends except with a BMW I owned. Too many stated they had transmission issues soon after the change on the Beemer. My other vehicles didn't have any issues after the change.
Towing with your vehicle would require an earlier change.
Towing with your vehicle would require an earlier change.
This post was edited on 2/23/23 at 2:41 pm
Posted on 2/23/23 at 3:20 pm to Shanegolang
Tranny is on its way out. Nothing you can do to save it now but the LAST thing you want to do is change the fluid and put fresh in. Let me explain. The contaminated fluid you have in there is increasing the friction in the transmission and actually helping prevent worse slippage. If you put fresh fluid in the better lubricating properties are just going to make the slipping far worse.
If you want to limp it along don't change the fluid but you are headed for failure no matter what you do. If you plan to rebuild that transmission do it now instead of limping it along, you may just have soft parts damage which results in a cheaper fix.
Just as an FYI my approach to high milage transmissions with poor or complete lack of maintenance is to use an oil extractor and take out 10-20% of the fluid every 20k or so and replace it with fresh. Then after the third or fourth time replace the filter and the fluid.
If you want to limp it along don't change the fluid but you are headed for failure no matter what you do. If you plan to rebuild that transmission do it now instead of limping it along, you may just have soft parts damage which results in a cheaper fix.
Just as an FYI my approach to high milage transmissions with poor or complete lack of maintenance is to use an oil extractor and take out 10-20% of the fluid every 20k or so and replace it with fresh. Then after the third or fourth time replace the filter and the fluid.
Posted on 2/23/23 at 3:26 pm to MikeAV8s
quote:
If it’s started to slip, it’s probably too late. However, you don’t have much to lose. Everyone up thread is correct. Doing a fluid “exchange” won’t hurt anything, but you don’t want to put any cleaner/detergents in there. What “can” happen is varnish/sludge that may be in some of the internal passages/valve body etc. can be loosened and can move and block something else. Fluid exchange first, if that doesn’t help you have nothing to lose trying a cleaner because it’s probably toast anyway.
Friend did something similar to his engine on an old car in highschool. Used some engine cleaner shite and ruined it. All that old gunk broke loose and started clogging up stuff. And also some broke loose that were keeping the engine from leaking oil.
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