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Is 0w20 really what is best for our vehicles?
Posted on 7/22/23 at 3:29 pm
Posted on 7/22/23 at 3:29 pm
I ask because I know of a few people who suggest that the reason many car manufacturers are requiring 0w20, and thinner oils, is because of CAFE (corporate average fuel economy). My vehicle calls for 0w20. However when I looked up the manual for my exact car in other parts of the world, the requirement is 5w30, and for hot temperatures (above 104 degrees) 15w40. So why the difference? I am not insinuating anything, just curious as to everyone else’s opinion on this topic.
21
Posted on 7/22/23 at 3:36 pm to jnethe1
Is it the same engine elsewhere?
I've run 2-3 different oils on my Jeep throughout the years with little to no difference in performance. No idea of long term.
I know guys in different climates run different oils.
I've run 2-3 different oils on my Jeep throughout the years with little to no difference in performance. No idea of long term.
I know guys in different climates run different oils.
This post was edited on 7/22/23 at 3:40 pm
Posted on 7/22/23 at 3:36 pm to jnethe1
Yes they thinned out the oil for CAFE requirements. You should be ok with 20 weight oil but I prefer 30 weight
Posted on 7/22/23 at 3:44 pm to jnethe1
0w20 and 5w20 are essentially the same once the engine gets up to temp. The difference is at engine startup where 0w20 is going to be less viscous and will lubricate better when the engine is cold. CAFE standards are ruining new manufactured car engines. Once again, government f*cks things up with stupid legislation.
This post was edited on 7/22/23 at 11:42 pm
Posted on 7/22/23 at 3:50 pm to jnethe1
In my experience, if the government is suggesting that you do it, you are sacrificing your engine in order to save the environment. 2 cycle motors once called for twice as much oil as later two cycle engines. Less smoke and less pollution but less protection
20 weight motor oil is thin and a similar situation to the two stroke oil requirements that we seen.
The thinner oils are supposed to cause less drag in the engine which yields more fuel efficiency but how much are we talking? I think it's pretty insignificant to you and I. Newer cars with the low tension piston rings are burning oil new off the lots. Climate down here in the hot south calls for a heavier oil less prone to thermal breakdown. I try to go no less than a 30 weight oil.
20 weight motor oil is thin and a similar situation to the two stroke oil requirements that we seen.
The thinner oils are supposed to cause less drag in the engine which yields more fuel efficiency but how much are we talking? I think it's pretty insignificant to you and I. Newer cars with the low tension piston rings are burning oil new off the lots. Climate down here in the hot south calls for a heavier oil less prone to thermal breakdown. I try to go no less than a 30 weight oil.
Posted on 7/22/23 at 3:51 pm to Civildawg
Running an engine oil that is a thicker viscosity can 100% cause performance issues in your vehicle.
Will your car blow up ? No but the engines are manufactured with tolerances for a certain oil. A thicker oil can lead to a drop in fuel economy as well as increased heat causing quicker oxidation.
On another note, if it calls for 0W20, why wouldn’t you just use 0W20? It’s as easy to get as 5W30.
Will your car blow up ? No but the engines are manufactured with tolerances for a certain oil. A thicker oil can lead to a drop in fuel economy as well as increased heat causing quicker oxidation.
On another note, if it calls for 0W20, why wouldn’t you just use 0W20? It’s as easy to get as 5W30.
Posted on 7/22/23 at 3:54 pm to jnethe1
They switched the Tundra from 5w30 to 0w20 because at 10,000 miles, thick deposits built in the oil pan. They went thinner so there would be less deposits at 10k.
Yep, that makes little sense but they did that instead of goingback to 5k changes. 5w30 is probably better for the engine but would void the warranty.
Yep, that makes little sense but they did that instead of goingback to 5k changes. 5w30 is probably better for the engine but would void the warranty.
Posted on 7/22/23 at 3:58 pm to jnethe1
I asked this question for a long time and I see where you are coming from.
We had a Lexus that used Ow20 and ran it to 160,000. It never used a drop of oil. Any modern synthetic is going to work really well.
Also had an Acura which ran 5w20 conventional past 300,000. It also never burned a drop of oil.
You'll be fine. Just don't run the 10,000 mile oil changes. Stick to 5,000, especially if it's a turbo motor.
We had a Lexus that used Ow20 and ran it to 160,000. It never used a drop of oil. Any modern synthetic is going to work really well.
Also had an Acura which ran 5w20 conventional past 300,000. It also never burned a drop of oil.
You'll be fine. Just don't run the 10,000 mile oil changes. Stick to 5,000, especially if it's a turbo motor.
Posted on 7/22/23 at 4:16 pm to GoAwayImBaitn
quote:
a heavier oil less prone to thermal breakdown.
This is bass akwards. Thicker oils don't transfer heat as well as thinner oils so they run hotter and are actually more prone to thermal degradation and oxidation which in turn can cause sludge.
There are some reasons to consider running a thicker oil in hotter climates but it is a crap shoot if it isn't a recommended oil by the manufacturer. Staking your engine's future on the idea all engines have thinner recommended oil than optimum based on the pressure to meet CAFE is sorta playing Russian Roulette especially if you are still under warranty. Crankcase oil-related failures on modern cars are extremely rare when using the recommended oil.
Posted on 7/22/23 at 4:22 pm to jnethe1
The same vehicle model is usually not the same in different locales. Toyota brands are famous for being reliable because the same model sold in the US will have different shocks, exhaust, and potentially engine than one sold in South Africa.
Do what the manufacturer tells you. If they recommend 0w20 and they had a statistically significant amount of engines blowing up under 50k miles, they wouldn't make the recommendation.
Most of the responses in this thread seem to be based in "old man" beliefs and word of mouth, which is notoriously unreliable.
Follow the manufacturer maintenance schedule and the fluids recommended. Use Quaker State, or Amsoil, or whatever you want, but nobody is going to give a damn about your anecdotes from message boards and the baws at local casino if you need warranty service for something major.
Do what the manufacturer tells you. If they recommend 0w20 and they had a statistically significant amount of engines blowing up under 50k miles, they wouldn't make the recommendation.
Most of the responses in this thread seem to be based in "old man" beliefs and word of mouth, which is notoriously unreliable.
Follow the manufacturer maintenance schedule and the fluids recommended. Use Quaker State, or Amsoil, or whatever you want, but nobody is going to give a damn about your anecdotes from message boards and the baws at local casino if you need warranty service for something major.
Posted on 7/22/23 at 4:25 pm to jnethe1
In the south you need to be running 40 weight, I know baws that run nothing but 20W50 in EVERYTHING.
Posted on 7/22/23 at 4:30 pm to jnethe1
Depends on the engine.
If it was truly designed for 0w20, yes.
If it wasn't, no.
A lot of the oil related failures, lifter ticks, and cam chain/chain guide failures are seemingly caused by poor lubrication.
My last two vehicles called for 5w30 from the factory. I ran 0w40 to over 300k miles. Pulling the valve covers, cams were perfect. Borescoping cylinders, perfect cross hatching.
Current truck specs 0w20. Engine was originally built for 5w30. In global markets, 10w40 is called for. I run 5 quarts of 5w40 and 2 quarts of 15w50. 5w40 has a lot of zinc. 15w50 has a shite ton of moly.
Seems to work well.
Alternately, i had a yamaha 3 cylinder that would chew up 0w40 in 800 miles. The 20w50 vr1 which replaced it would last 3200 with ease. The polaris 1000s love 0w40 mobil1. The yamaha twin 1000s love 5w40.
If you're that worried, send off an oil sample and track your wear metals.
I do it for any new engine I purchase. (New as in never owned by me, not new as in new, that's a different oil discussion)
If it was truly designed for 0w20, yes.
If it wasn't, no.
A lot of the oil related failures, lifter ticks, and cam chain/chain guide failures are seemingly caused by poor lubrication.
My last two vehicles called for 5w30 from the factory. I ran 0w40 to over 300k miles. Pulling the valve covers, cams were perfect. Borescoping cylinders, perfect cross hatching.
Current truck specs 0w20. Engine was originally built for 5w30. In global markets, 10w40 is called for. I run 5 quarts of 5w40 and 2 quarts of 15w50. 5w40 has a lot of zinc. 15w50 has a shite ton of moly.
Seems to work well.
Alternately, i had a yamaha 3 cylinder that would chew up 0w40 in 800 miles. The 20w50 vr1 which replaced it would last 3200 with ease. The polaris 1000s love 0w40 mobil1. The yamaha twin 1000s love 5w40.
If you're that worried, send off an oil sample and track your wear metals.
I do it for any new engine I purchase. (New as in never owned by me, not new as in new, that's a different oil discussion)
This post was edited on 7/22/23 at 4:37 pm
Posted on 7/22/23 at 4:33 pm to jnethe1
Use what the manufacturer specifies. I suggest using full synthetic oil and a new oil filter at every change. Follow manufacturer's service intervals.
Posted on 7/22/23 at 4:33 pm to jnethe1
They modified the engine to run the 0w20. Not like they built the engine to a different tolerance then the government forced them to use a different oil.
Posted on 7/22/23 at 4:34 pm to fightin tigers
quote:
Is it the same engine elsewhere?
Yes
Posted on 7/22/23 at 4:34 pm to Strannix
Them baws like blowing smoke out the pipes
Posted on 7/22/23 at 4:38 pm to LEASTBAY
quote:
They modified the engine to run the 0w20. Not like they built the engine to a different tolerance then the government forced them to use a different oil
See nissans vk56. Toyotas 5.7. Rams 5 7 fords coyote. GMs 5.3, 6.2
...I can keep going?
Posted on 7/22/23 at 4:38 pm to X123F45
Oil type has always been dependent upon the climate the vehicle was operated in. Global Mercedes link.
Most people on this board started driving before synthetic oil was commonly used or available. Cars that you drove in the 80s and 90s were absolute shite compared to what even cheap cars have been sold since the mid 2000s.
Maybe a board about OPs specific brand of vehicle would be a better place to find an answer. The amount of threads started about oil brands on the Ford Trucks forums are notorious, for instance.
Most people on this board started driving before synthetic oil was commonly used or available. Cars that you drove in the 80s and 90s were absolute shite compared to what even cheap cars have been sold since the mid 2000s.
Maybe a board about OPs specific brand of vehicle would be a better place to find an answer. The amount of threads started about oil brands on the Ford Trucks forums are notorious, for instance.
Posted on 7/22/23 at 4:38 pm to jnethe1
quote:
Yes
What engine?
Posted on 7/22/23 at 4:41 pm to LemmyLives
quote:
Maybe a board about OPs specific brand of vehicle would be a better place to find an answer.
Or bobistheoilguy.com
Yiu can look up an oil analysis for your engine with countless different types of oil
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