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re: Classic Car Restorations
Posted on 10/17/23 at 5:02 pm to Kracka
Posted on 10/17/23 at 5:02 pm to Kracka
Glad the ‘68 Vette I found was a full resto-mod. Things I want to upgrade but it’s all icing on the cake. I know he must have spent a ton of cash in it and never really drove it after work in 2000. Only was 7K miles on it.
Posted on 10/17/23 at 5:38 pm to Kracka
I got the basics a long time ago for stick and oxy-acetylene taking night classes at a community college and did the same for MIG and TIG. A major advantage was learning the health and safety factors related to that skill. In both cases for me, the instructors tailored the work to needs of the class.
Posted on 10/17/23 at 6:13 pm to Kracka
Before you start on any restoration, have a realistic expectation of what you want to accomplish and a budget and a reasonable time frame to reach it.
Have a good knowledge of the vehicle you are interested in or have someone with that experience evaluate it before you bring it home. Some cars have hidden problems that are not visible without some disassembly. The forums are full of sad stories where a buyers budget was blown up quickly after these hidden areas were discovered.
Be careful with claims of numbers matching. The scammers have gotten really good with fake docs and stampings.
Know your mechanical limitations and expect the unexpected.
Have a good knowledge of the vehicle you are interested in or have someone with that experience evaluate it before you bring it home. Some cars have hidden problems that are not visible without some disassembly. The forums are full of sad stories where a buyers budget was blown up quickly after these hidden areas were discovered.
Be careful with claims of numbers matching. The scammers have gotten really good with fake docs and stampings.
Know your mechanical limitations and expect the unexpected.
Posted on 10/17/23 at 6:27 pm to Traveler
Check the obituaries for a car fanatic's death leaving behind cars that were being worked on.
Join a car club where the estates will email members about cars that are avaialble.
I have a 1962 chevy nova convertible that's been in my barn for about 30 years. It belongs to a friend who has lost interest in it. The owner has kept it licensed.
There are thousands of cars that are no longer loved out there, just waiting for the next suck....er owner to take them home.
We OTOH have a 1929 Packard in another part of the barn that my husband admits (on a good day) that he'll never get around to putting together. (t even has a body and a half available.
Keep looking. Cars are out there and my Packard will be beautiful again, some day, probably not in my lifetime.
Join a car club where the estates will email members about cars that are avaialble.
I have a 1962 chevy nova convertible that's been in my barn for about 30 years. It belongs to a friend who has lost interest in it. The owner has kept it licensed.
There are thousands of cars that are no longer loved out there, just waiting for the next suck....er owner to take them home.
We OTOH have a 1929 Packard in another part of the barn that my husband admits (on a good day) that he'll never get around to putting together. (t even has a body and a half available.
Keep looking. Cars are out there and my Packard will be beautiful again, some day, probably not in my lifetime.
Posted on 10/17/23 at 6:38 pm to Kracka
Buy one already done. There are a ton out there for sale that will save you a ton of money.
FYI-25k will get you paint/body work and interior. You still have suspension, engine, transmission, wheels, tires, brakes, glass, moldings, etc. that will run you another 30-50k. This puts you at 75k or so on a car that if done perfectly might get 50k top dollar. Or you can buy one already done for 40k.
FYI-25k will get you paint/body work and interior. You still have suspension, engine, transmission, wheels, tires, brakes, glass, moldings, etc. that will run you another 30-50k. This puts you at 75k or so on a car that if done perfectly might get 50k top dollar. Or you can buy one already done for 40k.
Posted on 10/17/23 at 7:54 pm to Kracka
Started on a 70 Camaro. Bought it in Bristol for 1500. Hauled it to Birmingham basically in a box. $3500 later, new quarter panels, roof, floor pans and tail light panel. Built a 454 for 1800. Ran it on Craigslist to see where I stood. A man from Chattanooga offered me $9000 for the car. Sold the engine separate for $3800. I had no experience in welding. Bought a cheap welder and plasma cutter and went to work. Had about $6800 in it, sold for about $13000. Was fun and profitable.
Posted on 10/17/23 at 8:00 pm to Traveler
quote:
Traveler
Before you start on any restoration, have a realistic expectation of what you want to accomplish and a budget and a reasonable time frame to reach it.
Have a good knowledge of the vehicle you are interested in or have someone with that experience evaluate it before you bring it home. Some cars have hidden problems that are not visible without some disassembly. The forums are full of sad stories where a buyers budget was blown up quickly after these hidden areas were discovered.
Be careful with claims of numbers matching. The scammers have gotten really good with fake docs and stampings.
Know your mechanical limitations and expect the unexpected.
Kracka, I was going to suggest you reach out to Traveler. Despite being a flaming homosexual, devout liberal and DIEHARD teetotaler, he seems to know about vehicles.
Best of luck.
![](https://images.tigerdroppings.com/Images/Icons/Iconcheers.gif)
Posted on 10/17/23 at 8:10 pm to Kracka
Invest in yourself and take a welding class.
Posted on 10/17/23 at 8:11 pm to LCA131
![](https://images.tigerdroppings.com/Images/Icons/IconLOL.gif)
Posted on 10/17/23 at 8:21 pm to Traveler
quote:
All my secrets are out now!
My bad... I've been drinking.
Posted on 10/17/23 at 8:52 pm to Kracka
First time poster. I have been reading and lurking for years. I have a 1973 Mustang convertible. This is my third classic car. I have had this one going on four years. All I can say is that rust is the biggest thing to avoid. This car is perfect with the exception of the engine and a few minor things. I am putting a new one in it now and while I’m at it, a new AC, upgraded internal and external lights and all new rubber. Should have it on the road in three or four weeks and it will be my daily driver It’s still a lot of money. I cannot imagine having to do body work on top of that. All that to say, if you haven’t been to Cruisin the Coast in Mississippi, I highly recommend it. There are so many great cars there after the event that are completely redone that are for sale, many at very good prices. And it is a really fun event!
Posted on 10/17/23 at 9:45 pm to PerplenGold
quote:
That happens a lot with resto's. You'll put more $ into it than it's worth if you don't/can't do the work yourself.
It’s not an investment unless you’re young and keep it in storage and well maintained for 10+ years as it gains value. Even then it needs to be a rare or high demand classic.
Mostly it’s a hobby to have something to work on and fun to drive occasionally
Posted on 10/18/23 at 10:03 am to NederlandseVrouw
quote:
All I can say is that rust is the biggest thing to avoid.
Well this is my biggest fear during my brainstorming about this car. Like most of us, we live in S. Louisiana, and the rust is king. Especially with cars that sit in disrepair for god knows how long. I fully expect all the rockers, fenders and floor pans to be completely rusted out. Unless I get lucky and find a car out of state that is maybe from up north. All that cutting, fitting, and welding will be expensive. Then the body work that comes after that. The drive train is what it is, It's alot easier to take an engine out, and have it rebuilt than for me to have that metal work done.
Posted on 10/18/23 at 10:05 am to Kracka
When I win the Lottery I'm going to get me a fully restored 72 K50 Crew like this with a duramax 6.6
![](https://img.equipmentworld.com/files/base/randallreilly/all/image/2017/11/eqw.1972-Chevrolet-K50-Crew-Cab-SEMA-2017-13-of-13.png?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=max&q=70&w=1200)
![](https://img.equipmentworld.com/files/base/randallreilly/all/image/2017/11/eqw.1972-Chevrolet-K50-Crew-Cab-SEMA-2017-13-of-13.png?auto=format%2Ccompress&fit=max&q=70&w=1200)
Posted on 10/18/23 at 11:05 am to lsufan1971
This is the car I am going look at this week.
![](https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/5580/TOVZHl.jpg)
![](https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/9302/l9KpQq.jpg)
![](https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img924/5580/TOVZHl.jpg)
Posted on 10/18/23 at 11:51 am to Kracka
Besides the obvious rust, take a very close look at the wiring. 50+ year old wiring is going to have issues, esp on a car which appears to have spent a lot of time outside. They make complete harnesses, but that can turn out to be a big job even with the body off.
This post was edited on 10/18/23 at 11:58 am
Posted on 10/18/23 at 11:57 am to Kracka
Expand your time frame to 2x, cars been sitting for 50 years, what's another 5?
Mig welding ain't hard. I got a barely used 210amp Hobart with the bottle, gun, and two reels for $1300. I can weld just about anything I need to. YouTube will teach you technique and settings. Body panels can be purchased if you don't want to roll or patch.
If the rest of these assholes in the comments would stop their projects it'd be cheaper for us![](https://images.tigerdroppings.com/Images/Icons/IconLOL.gif)
Mig welding ain't hard. I got a barely used 210amp Hobart with the bottle, gun, and two reels for $1300. I can weld just about anything I need to. YouTube will teach you technique and settings. Body panels can be purchased if you don't want to roll or patch.
If the rest of these assholes in the comments would stop their projects it'd be cheaper for us
![](https://images.tigerdroppings.com/Images/Icons/IconLOL.gif)
Posted on 10/18/23 at 12:07 pm to Kracka
Be patient and find a car with solid bones. It will cost you more upfront for the car but save you money in the end. Stay patient and the right car will come along. With that being said wanna buy a 66 Cadillac already done? Lol
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