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Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:38 pm to LSUperior
many times it can be cheaper to buy new rotors than to have them machined
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:38 pm to lsunatchamp
You can't use channel locks with the two pistons plus you want to evenly decompress them.
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:39 pm to lsunatchamp
Or...
Have an old caulk gun laying around? Cut the tube holder off and you have a brake caliper depressing tool...
Have an old caulk gun laying around? Cut the tube holder off and you have a brake caliper depressing tool...
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:40 pm to LSUperior
quote:
Any cheap c clamp will do?
Perfect situation for a cheap harbor freight tool. You won't be applying much pressure.
Make sure it has at least a few inches of clearance depending on your caliper size. Use the old pad to press in all the pistons at once.
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:40 pm to LSUperior
You simply take the old brake pad a lay it across both pistons and tighten the c clamp down until pistons are flush.
This post was edited on 3/1/17 at 2:41 pm
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:40 pm to LSUperior
Actually brake pads do not have the metal tabs anymore. Once you begin to hear brake noises, it's metal on metal and therefore you need new rotors.
It is not worth the money to turns rotors anymore. New set of rotors is ~$50.
It is not worth the money to turns rotors anymore. New set of rotors is ~$50.
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:41 pm to LSUperior
Yes either place. You'll need an 8" clamp. Sometimes the piston is hollow on the end and uou need a small piece of metal or wood so the clamp can hit seat good. May also want to get a bucket or milk crate to rest the calipers on if you need to change the rotors.
Watch a youtube video
Watch a youtube video
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:42 pm to lsunatchamp
I used channel locks monday to compress mine. If you do it slowly you wont have any problems. Two bolts on each caliper, change the pads, repeat.
Pump the brakes a few times and you're good to go.
Dealer quoted me $350 to replace, I used an email to sign up online at advanced auto and got 20% off the pads. Ceramic on the front and semi metallic on the rear. < $80.00 out the door.
Pump the brakes a few times and you're good to go.
Dealer quoted me $350 to replace, I used an email to sign up online at advanced auto and got 20% off the pads. Ceramic on the front and semi metallic on the rear. < $80.00 out the door.
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:42 pm to LSUperior
O'Reilly will turn down rotors for you at a small cost.
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:42 pm to lsunatchamp
quote:
u can also use chanel locks
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:43 pm to Nado Jenkins83
quote:
also buy brake fluid and bleed them to ensure proper function
No. Just no. Don't need to do that.
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:45 pm to Jack Daniel
quote:
Actually brake pads do not have the metal tabs anymore.
Wrong... If they came with indicator tabs on them from the OEM then the mid-range or better replacements will have them.
SOME manufacturers didn't use indicator tabs but added in a layer of metal in the pad material to mimic the squeal that a typical indicator would.
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:48 pm to LSUperior
Get good pads so your husband doesn't have to change them as often. Also get the lifetime warranty if available. Not sure if you can get the lifetime warranty in the good pads, can't remember.
You don't have to turn your rotors, but it's generally a good idea. Rotors with grooves will eat up your pads quicker and your husband will be changing them more often. However, it is more difficult than just changing the pads. If the rotors don't have grooves in them then you can be OK not getting them turned. I would just wait until I had the pads off and look at the rotors then and make a decision about whether they should be turned.
Make sure you cook your husband a nice meal and give him a BJ tonight for changing your brake pads.
Also as others said, make sure you have a c clamp, or a caulk gun like cdaniel showed. I'm going to try that next time.
You don't have to turn your rotors, but it's generally a good idea. Rotors with grooves will eat up your pads quicker and your husband will be changing them more often. However, it is more difficult than just changing the pads. If the rotors don't have grooves in them then you can be OK not getting them turned. I would just wait until I had the pads off and look at the rotors then and make a decision about whether they should be turned.
Make sure you cook your husband a nice meal and give him a BJ tonight for changing your brake pads.
Also as others said, make sure you have a c clamp, or a caulk gun like cdaniel showed. I'm going to try that next time.
This post was edited on 3/1/17 at 2:59 pm
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:48 pm to Scooba
If you use a c-clamp always use an old brake pad to place over the cylinder cup. Never allow the clamp to press in the center of the cup. It's possible to bust the back end out of the cup if too much pressure is applied.
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:48 pm to LSUperior
Is it pulsating when you apply the brakes? If not, rotors are fine.
Pads will cost you under 50....do it yourself, it's as simple as can be.
Most routine car repairs are simple actually.
Pads will cost you under 50....do it yourself, it's as simple as can be.
Most routine car repairs are simple actually.
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:50 pm to LSUperior
quote:
1. Is it absolutely necessary to have my rotors "turned down?"
Not necessarily unless they are warped or scored. It is certainly best practice to start with a freshly surfaced rotor and new pads but certainly not necessary. Honestly, for what rotors cost and what it costs to turn them properly (typically an on car brake lathe) when they warp or look crappy I just replace them along with fresh pads.
quote:
2. If I buy the brake pads (he will help me change them out), should I get the ceramic ones?
I would get the OEM Ford pads that came with your truck if they gave you good service life. The OEM pad material is optimized for good life, good wet performance, and low noise. The "lifetime" pads are famous for overheating and damaging rotors, they are hard and last a long time but are hard on rotors and tend to make more noise. Many aftermarket pads may be made to the same OEM spec but it's hard to sort out which ones are or aren't.
quote:
3. Any particular brake pads (that Auto Zone, O'Reilly's, etc. sell) that y'all would recommend?
Again, I would recommend the OEM pad. It's what I use on my F150.
Another important part of any disc brake service is to clean AND lubricate the caliper slides. Use a quality wheel bearing grease or a product called "Syl-Glyde" (available on Amazon). Anti-Seize will dry out and seize the pins, do not use it here.
Again, if you are not cleaning and lubricating the caliper slides you are only doing half the job.
Hope this helps.
This post was edited on 3/1/17 at 2:53 pm
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:51 pm to CHEDBALLZ
quote:
Watch a youtube video
easy peasy my man
Posted on 3/1/17 at 2:56 pm to the LSUSaint
quote:
Is it pulsating when you apply the brakes? If not, rotors are fine.
No pulsating, just a minimal squeaking noise at times when I press the brakes.
Posted on 3/1/17 at 3:05 pm to LSUperior
I don't know how true this is but I was told this as a teenager and it's always stick with me.
When you first start driving with new pads, try to go as easy on them as possible. Pads were described to me like a loaf of bread, soft when they are new and you first put them on. But after you drive around a bit and get them warm a few times then they start to get tougher, like a loaf of bread gets stale. Then you can go back to driving as normal as the pads are broke in and tougher.
Again, I don't know how true that is, but I heard it and it made sense to 16 year old me and just something I've always tried to do. As with any thread about mechanic work you will have people that disagree if you say water is wet.
When you first start driving with new pads, try to go as easy on them as possible. Pads were described to me like a loaf of bread, soft when they are new and you first put them on. But after you drive around a bit and get them warm a few times then they start to get tougher, like a loaf of bread gets stale. Then you can go back to driving as normal as the pads are broke in and tougher.
Again, I don't know how true that is, but I heard it and it made sense to 16 year old me and just something I've always tried to do. As with any thread about mechanic work you will have people that disagree if you say water is wet.
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