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Posted on 3/3/14 at 12:30 pm to tavolatim
And if I buy a new one of those that uses the new coolant, I won't have to worry about what's in my attic?
Posted on 3/3/14 at 12:36 pm to uway
There are low cost drop in replacement freons for R22. You would not need to replace anything else if you go the r22 route.
If you decide to go the 410A route you would need to replace your evaporator coil and flush your line sets.
Give me a call and We will talk about your options.
If you decide to go the 410A route you would need to replace your evaporator coil and flush your line sets.
Give me a call and We will talk about your options.
Posted on 3/3/14 at 12:38 pm to tavolatim
quote:he means yes. Evap - coil in air handler.
If you decide to go the 410A route you would need to replace your evaporator coil and flush your line sets.
Also, you should get a heat pump in LA.
Posted on 3/3/14 at 12:42 pm to tavolatim
quote:
Give me a call and We will talk about your options.
You've been real helpful, and I would def. call you if I was in the BR area, but I'm in Acadia Parish.
Posted on 3/3/14 at 12:47 pm to uway
no problem... would still be glad to help out with suggestions....not all A/C companies are just in it for themselves. Most of us want to help out and raise the standard of the industry.
Posted on 3/3/14 at 1:05 pm to tavolatim
quote:
There are low cost drop in replacement freons for R22.
Had not heard this. Moar info please.
Posted on 3/3/14 at 1:39 pm to uway
quote:a 4 ton installed? Must be a 10 seer
Buddy at work said he buys Rheem and it's no more than $2,000 installed.
Posted on 3/3/14 at 2:25 pm to tavolatim
...
This post was edited on 9/15/14 at 7:35 pm
Posted on 3/3/14 at 2:31 pm to tavolatim
quote:
no problem... would still be glad to help out with suggestions....not all A/C companies are just in it for themselves. Most of us want to help out and raise the standard of the industry.

I don't have a price yet, but he told me if I want to go with 14a, he'll have to change the coil in the attic. What exactly is the coil (i.e. a whole new box or just a part inside of a bigger unit), and is that an expensive thing?
He still sells one unit that uses the old freon, but would have to retrofit it (~ $300) later if the inside unit went out.
Does all of that make sense, and do you recommend changing to the 14a?
This post was edited on 3/3/14 at 2:32 pm
Posted on 3/3/14 at 2:51 pm to uway
Depending on how old your inside unit is or if you don't plan on staying at your current house long, then it is almost always a good idea to change both the outside and inside units at the same time so that they match and then you get a much longer warranty as well.
Posted on 3/3/14 at 3:29 pm to uway
I'm in the same boat. I have a 2 br, 2.5 bath townhome and my a/c struggles bigtime during the summer. Its about 25 years old so it's time for a new one. I don't need anything fancy, and honestly, I probably won't be in the house for more than another 5 years or so so i don't need anything fancy. I don't even know where to start. Who's your a/c guy?
Posted on 3/3/14 at 3:53 pm to Spock's Eyebrow
Each freon producer calls it by their name but it is a direct drop in replacement for freon 22. NU22 is the one I am using and the cost is a little less than 410A and about half the cost of Freon 22. When freon 22 is finally phased out the cost will drop lower.
Posted on 3/3/14 at 3:54 pm to MyNameIsNobody
I am still selling at $40.00/lb.
Posted on 3/3/14 at 4:03 pm to supadave3
quote:
Who's your a/c guy?
I would call the guy who's been giving all the info in this thread.
Posted on 3/3/14 at 4:05 pm to uway
410A would most likely need an evaporator coil replacement ($1500.) unless your coil is less than 10 years old. If you have a gas furnace in your attic it would be the box above your overflow pan. If you have electric heat it is probably part of your coil/blower and, if not available, you would need to change the electric air handler unit($2200.)...unless less than 10 years old. If you go with the dry charge or freon 22 unit there would be no retrofit needed later on ....just change the coil and possibly the metering device and you are good to go.
The advantage you have with the 410A system is efficiency....you can reach up into the 20 SEER (seasonal energy efficiency rating) as opposed to the max of 13 you achieve with the freon 22 system. This means a smaller utility bill each month...but unless you are ready to spend the money to go to at least a 16 seer system....go with the freon 22 or dry charge condensing unit and save the money.
The advantage you have with the 410A system is efficiency....you can reach up into the 20 SEER (seasonal energy efficiency rating) as opposed to the max of 13 you achieve with the freon 22 system. This means a smaller utility bill each month...but unless you are ready to spend the money to go to at least a 16 seer system....go with the freon 22 or dry charge condensing unit and save the money.
Posted on 3/3/14 at 4:25 pm to tavolatim
Does brand make a difference? Is a Carrier or Trane better than a Goodman or Rudd?
Posted on 3/23/14 at 10:07 am to Shaun176
Will be replacing unit soon as well. Currently have a Rheem built in 1991
My AC guy wants to install Carrier. I've been reading and some people say that any decent brand is ok. Kinda like Ford VS Chevy, just preference. If that's true why buy Carrier, Trane etc when I can get American Standard, Bryant, Ruud for a little less money?
One thing I know I need to have is a scroll compressor. That seems to be universally agreed upon.
Carrier has switched to aluminium coils I was told. Isn't copper better?
I dont want the cheapest unit, but I dont need the most expensive either. Is there a good reliable, efficient middle ground?

My AC guy wants to install Carrier. I've been reading and some people say that any decent brand is ok. Kinda like Ford VS Chevy, just preference. If that's true why buy Carrier, Trane etc when I can get American Standard, Bryant, Ruud for a little less money?
One thing I know I need to have is a scroll compressor. That seems to be universally agreed upon.
Carrier has switched to aluminium coils I was told. Isn't copper better?
I dont want the cheapest unit, but I dont need the most expensive either. Is there a good reliable, efficient middle ground?
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