Started By
Message

re: Car air conditioning doesn't get very cold at idle... Reasons? Update pg 2

Posted on 5/6/19 at 9:16 pm to
Posted by Hammertime
Will trade dowsing rod for titties
Member since Jan 2012
43031 posts
Posted on 5/6/19 at 9:16 pm to
Marketing nowadays basically says, "Hey, click this thing on and load your car up with it. It'll be ice cold afterwards"
Posted by cubsfan5150
NWA
Member since Nov 2007
18924 posts
Posted on 5/6/19 at 9:38 pm to
Yeah, not trying to do that man... From what I understand the only reason to evac is to determine exactly how much refrigerant that the vehicle currently has... Can you have correct pressures without the proper refrigerant amount? If you can't, seems like someone should just be able to add refrigerant until the pressures are correct
Posted by Chuker
St George, Louisiana
Member since Nov 2015
7544 posts
Posted on 5/6/19 at 9:40 pm to
quote:

leak stop



Don't ever use this shite.
Posted by Snaxnstuff
Zachary
Member since Mar 2014
207 posts
Posted on 5/6/19 at 9:41 pm to
Yes you absolutely can have close to correct pressures with incorrect refrigerant. Dirty coils/lack of airflow can raise or lower pressures to make it seem like correct levels
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
31120 posts
Posted on 5/6/19 at 9:47 pm to
quote:

If it had a leak it wouldn’t cool at all and would constantly freeze up


As an HVAC guy, I can't believe you have never seen a system that has a small leak that takes MONTHS of use in a car to get to the point you can tell a difference in the cooling.

To the OP. Get a simple gauge and ensure you have the correct charge now.

Posted by Snaxnstuff
Zachary
Member since Mar 2014
207 posts
Posted on 5/6/19 at 9:49 pm to
Considering those automotive systems probably hold less than a lb I’d assume a leak would result in little cooling/freezing in no time at all. Not very familiar with automotive at all though like I originally said
Posted by cubsfan5150
NWA
Member since Nov 2007
18924 posts
Posted on 5/6/19 at 9:50 pm to
I've heard the exact same
Posted by tigerzballzdeep
Tampa, FL
Member since Jun 2007
3105 posts
Posted on 5/6/19 at 10:02 pm to
quote:

One note while it is easy to do without having to think about it in the deep South running your air a few minutes every 3-4 weeks in winter will help keep the seals pliable


I usually always run my heater with the a/c button on, activating the compressor, even when the knob is cranked all the way to heat. I usually do it as it helps keep windows from fogging. Is this not sufficient?
Posted by Obtuse1
Westside Bodymore Yo
Member since Sep 2016
31120 posts
Posted on 5/6/19 at 10:03 pm to
quote:

Considering those automotive systems probably hold less than a lb I’d assume a leak would result in little cooling/freezing in no time at all. Not very familiar with automotive at all though like I originally said


Most cars are about 15-30 oz.

It all depends on the size of the leak. I have a car that loses about 3 oz a year for the last 4 years. I just add what it needs at the beginning of the spring.

As for using stop leak, I would personally not do it, but "they" say the current quality stop leaks are fine BUT the "good stuff" is expensive.
Posted by Snaxnstuff
Zachary
Member since Mar 2014
207 posts
Posted on 5/6/19 at 10:05 pm to
Really? Must be extremely small. Didn’t think any systems with less than 5 lbs had Schraders or pin holes on solder joints from change outs which have been the culprits of extremely slow leaks in my experience
Posted by Spankum
The Sip
Member since Jan 2007
63272 posts
Posted on 5/6/19 at 10:31 pm to
quote:

seems like someone should just be able to add refrigerant until the pressures are correct



this is correct...the only thing that matters in a refrigerant system is the proper high-side and low-side refrigerant pressures. be sure you have the proper pressures adjusted for ambient temp and basically, there is nothing more to do.
Posted by Freon
Sah Kurlahna
Member since Dec 2018
826 posts
Posted on 5/7/19 at 8:29 am to
If she’s working fine at speed it’s an airflow issue on the condenser coil and your electrically driven fan must be checked. The charge is probably correct and putting gauges on it will only result in refrigerant loss, then it may start acting up even more.
Posted by Bedhog
Denham Springs
Member since Apr 2019
3741 posts
Posted on 5/7/19 at 8:35 am to
possibilities from most probable to less.

low freon
weak or non working electric fan
condenser dirty/clogged with debris
sticking expansion valve
compressor internals going bad
too much freon in the system.
first pageprev pagePage 3 of 3Next pagelast page
refresh

Back to top
logoFollow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News
Follow us on X, Facebook and Instagram to get the latest updates on LSU Football and Recruiting.

FacebookXInstagram