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Started By
Message
Need some TLC on my grandpas old guitar. Recs around BR?
Posted on 6/3/20 at 10:55 am
Posted on 6/3/20 at 10:55 am
I've had an old 70's Castilla Hummingbird acoustic that was my late Grandpa's. It needs a new bridge, keys, etc. Just an overhaul. Can y'all recommend anyone who can do this for me with care?
Here’s a stock pick. Mine isn’t in quite as good of shape, but it’s played a lot.
Here’s a stock pick. Mine isn’t in quite as good of shape, but it’s played a lot.
This post was edited on 6/3/20 at 10:58 am
7
Posted on 6/3/20 at 11:13 am to PapaPogey
FretShack
This post was edited on 6/3/20 at 11:14 am
Posted on 6/3/20 at 11:14 am to PapaPogey
Fret Shack +1
Posted on 6/3/20 at 12:26 pm to SidewalkTiger
quote:
FretShack
Don't even think about anybody else. The Fret Shack
This post was edited on 6/3/20 at 12:27 pm
Posted on 6/3/20 at 3:27 pm to PapaPogey
Tim's Guitar Shop
Posted on 6/3/20 at 5:14 pm to PapaPogey
Fret Shack
Posted on 6/3/20 at 6:01 pm to PapaPogey
He gives so much free advice on here you are OBLIGATED to use Fret Shack. Lol
Posted on 6/3/20 at 6:05 pm to LSU alum wannabe
Although I have been hearing great things about Tim for decades, Fret Shack is one of our own here on the music board, so yet another vote for TFS.
Posted on 6/3/20 at 6:32 pm to Ace Midnight
Fretshack is the official guitar guru of the MB
Posted on 6/3/20 at 8:27 pm to FightinTigersDammit
Thanks for the kind words. My direct contact information is on every page of the website. I encourage you to also check out the shop's Facebook page for some examples of acoustic bridge replacements. They are common.
The most recent I did was on this 1964 Gretsch Model 6003 Jimmie Rodgers Folksinger. It arrived with a splintered and cracked bridge ... and missing all body binding and pickguard ...
After, with not only bridge replacement ...
but also multi-ply re-bind and pickguard cut from scratch ...
All the in progress pix are on the Facebook page.
The most recent I did was on this 1964 Gretsch Model 6003 Jimmie Rodgers Folksinger. It arrived with a splintered and cracked bridge ... and missing all body binding and pickguard ...
After, with not only bridge replacement ...
but also multi-ply re-bind and pickguard cut from scratch ...
All the in progress pix are on the Facebook page.
Posted on 6/3/20 at 8:38 pm to PapaPogey
I had to put the phone down and go get my tablet to reply.
Fret Shack, full stop. Anyone on this board knows that. His positive, free advice and input is one of the few shining gems in the tigerdroppings shite pile.
I wear my The Fret Shack t-shirt often, and proudly. Good people deserve recognition.
ETA: he doesn't talk about Martins much, but that's probably because they're just great as is.
Fret Shack, full stop. Anyone on this board knows that. His positive, free advice and input is one of the few shining gems in the tigerdroppings shite pile.
I wear my The Fret Shack t-shirt often, and proudly. Good people deserve recognition.
ETA: he doesn't talk about Martins much, but that's probably because they're just great as is.
This post was edited on 6/3/20 at 8:41 pm
Posted on 6/3/20 at 8:45 pm to TheFretShack
That one require bridge plate work as well?
Posted on 6/3/20 at 9:30 pm to awestruck
The old Gretsch could benefit from a new bridge plate, the old one's holes are wallowed in spots, but the plate is functional enough for now. And I don't replace a bridge plate unless I absolutely must.
Bridge plate replacement involves inserting and clamping a triangular block of iron to the damaged plate. The thing is, the iron block is heated to about 300F. It has to compromise the glue between the plate and the soundboard, so I can separate the two pieces with a U-shaped chisel. I have to wear kevlar gloves during the task, that block will scorch you like a stovetop burner. The plate can splinter into pieces making tedious work even more so, the soundboard can splinter, tear, even crack, I can burn the edge of the soundhole inserting or removing the scalding block ...
Now you see why I don't replace a soundplate unless I must? haha
Bridge plate replacement involves inserting and clamping a triangular block of iron to the damaged plate. The thing is, the iron block is heated to about 300F. It has to compromise the glue between the plate and the soundboard, so I can separate the two pieces with a U-shaped chisel. I have to wear kevlar gloves during the task, that block will scorch you like a stovetop burner. The plate can splinter into pieces making tedious work even more so, the soundboard can splinter, tear, even crack, I can burn the edge of the soundhole inserting or removing the scalding block ...
Now you see why I don't replace a soundplate unless I must? haha
Posted on 6/3/20 at 9:39 pm to TheFretShack
Most common repairs on Martins I see outside of routine set-ups, common upgrades and wear and tear fixes are:
** Nazareth models: Body binding separations due to binding shrinking combined with compromised adhesive, all due mostly to age. Most common separation areas are the waist cuts, front and back. Easy fix using a heat gun, glue and tape, akin to the binding work on the Gretsch earlier in this thread.
** Mexico models: Separation of composite material back and side walls from each other and soundboard. The glues they use don't stick those composite panels well and a fall off a stand, a strap or a knock into a wall or furniture, even dropped while in a case, can separate the pieces. I glue them back together with an adhesive better suited to bond those formica-like panels.
ETA ... Martins arrive weekly for something. but the sheer numbers of Martins in the marketplace and the small fraction I get, it's a testament to generally how well made they are. They are excellent guitars, both the USAs and the MIMs.
** Nazareth models: Body binding separations due to binding shrinking combined with compromised adhesive, all due mostly to age. Most common separation areas are the waist cuts, front and back. Easy fix using a heat gun, glue and tape, akin to the binding work on the Gretsch earlier in this thread.
** Mexico models: Separation of composite material back and side walls from each other and soundboard. The glues they use don't stick those composite panels well and a fall off a stand, a strap or a knock into a wall or furniture, even dropped while in a case, can separate the pieces. I glue them back together with an adhesive better suited to bond those formica-like panels.
ETA ... Martins arrive weekly for something. but the sheer numbers of Martins in the marketplace and the small fraction I get, it's a testament to generally how well made they are. They are excellent guitars, both the USAs and the MIMs.
This post was edited on 6/3/20 at 9:46 pm
Posted on 6/4/20 at 12:42 am to PapaPogey
Fret Shack, hands down! The man is an absolute ARTIST when it comes to luthier work. Just scroll through the Facebook page to see all the detailed work he puts into each instrument. Not sure you will find anyone as knowledgable or detailed as Fret Shack in the southeast US when it comes to guitars.
I’m just a chord strummer and beginner player. I’ve had Fret Shack do two setups, or as he calls them ‘Spa Days’, on my guitars. Holy smokes, my guitars have played so much better after their spa days at the Fret Shack.
The two guitars I’ve had Fret Shack work on are a GL tele and a 1998 Squier Strat (my first guitar). These are cheap, economic guitars and Fret Shack gave them the treatment just as if they were high end guitars.
I can’t wait to have him work on an old 50’s Gibson LG-0 acoustic that i got from my uncle.
I’m just a chord strummer and beginner player. I’ve had Fret Shack do two setups, or as he calls them ‘Spa Days’, on my guitars. Holy smokes, my guitars have played so much better after their spa days at the Fret Shack.
The two guitars I’ve had Fret Shack work on are a GL tele and a 1998 Squier Strat (my first guitar). These are cheap, economic guitars and Fret Shack gave them the treatment just as if they were high end guitars.
I can’t wait to have him work on an old 50’s Gibson LG-0 acoustic that i got from my uncle.
Posted on 6/4/20 at 7:06 am to TheFretShack
Oh, I know. . . Just have seen that flavor of cracked bridge before. And have used several different luthiers based on severity and the needs for a rush. Including both bridge and bridge plate work.
Was merely asking how bad a situation you started with by asking if it required attention. It was a quiz because you would have certainly included pictures of a replacement and there are other possibilities besides replacing.
quote:
yadda yadda yadda
Was merely asking how bad a situation you started with by asking if it required attention. It was a quiz because you would have certainly included pictures of a replacement and there are other possibilities besides replacing.
This post was edited on 6/4/20 at 7:27 am
Posted on 6/4/20 at 7:38 am to awestruck
Quickest, cheapest effective fix for a botched or wallowed soundplate is a Plate Mate. I've used these many times and always got great results. They will, however, subtly change the tone of the guitar, subjectively, sometimes brighter, sometimes darker, so YMMV.
Plate Mate for damaged soundplates
Plate Mate for damaged soundplates
Posted on 6/4/20 at 8:09 am to TheFretShack
Have had one repaired using matched plugs cut from a piece of 100 year old hardrock maple. Guy had a pair of bits for enlarging the string holes in bridge plate and also for the exact plug for that hole.
He also saved the original bridge by routering out the back side and making a matched insert. We both really wanted to keep the guitar as original as possible.
Consequently he then re-drilled for strings. (got pics somewhere)
He also saved the original bridge by routering out the back side and making a matched insert. We both really wanted to keep the guitar as original as possible.
Consequently he then re-drilled for strings. (got pics somewhere)
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