- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
TheFretShack
| Favorite team: | |
| Location: | |
| Biography: | |
| Interests: | |
| Occupation: | |
| Number of Posts: | 1386 |
| Registered on: | 10/28/2015 |
| Online Status: | Not Online |
Recent Posts
Message
re: Record Label Name: What would yours be?
Posted by TheFretShack on 9/3/26 at 8:58 am to Lutcher Lad
One of my former bands decades ago came "this" close (pinching fingers together) to creating our own indie host called Polluted Womb Records.


re: Longest Lasting 9v for Active Pickups?
Posted by TheFretShack on 8/25/26 at 5:33 pm to deeprig9
Adding a battery box is easy for a competent tech. Not only does a battery box make changing them fast and easy, not having to lift the guard means you're not potentially creating more problems and/or delays by snapping soldered connections, introducing more dust to the cavity (a common contributor to scratchy pots), stuff like that.
Buy alkalines, Duracells or Energizers, don't buy cheap carbons for active electronics applications. The only thing musical I use cheap carbons in are vintage circuit fuzz pedals. Duracell or Energizer for everything else.
Avoid generics unless you want to test their life compared to the more expensive batteries.
And most importantly, do not get batteries from Amazon, whether it's the Amazon branded or discounted name brands. You may be buying old overstocks and/or closeouts that lost some of their lifespan already.
Get your batteries from stores that sell a lot of 9Vs, meaning they are constantly turning their stock and you are getting 9Vs that haven't sat around on shelves long.
A Google search just told me Wal-Mart sells more 9V batteries than any retailer in America. I'd buy my batteries there.
Buy alkalines, Duracells or Energizers, don't buy cheap carbons for active electronics applications. The only thing musical I use cheap carbons in are vintage circuit fuzz pedals. Duracell or Energizer for everything else.
Avoid generics unless you want to test their life compared to the more expensive batteries.
And most importantly, do not get batteries from Amazon, whether it's the Amazon branded or discounted name brands. You may be buying old overstocks and/or closeouts that lost some of their lifespan already.
Get your batteries from stores that sell a lot of 9Vs, meaning they are constantly turning their stock and you are getting 9Vs that haven't sat around on shelves long.
A Google search just told me Wal-Mart sells more 9V batteries than any retailer in America. I'd buy my batteries there.
re: Pedal Board Design
Posted by TheFretShack on 8/23/26 at 11:42 am to killinme_smalls
No point in sharing my pedalboard photos, I have two and they change seemingly weekly haha.
My only suggestion would be to look into the D'Addario adjustable XPND pedalboard that folds into itself. AKA, you can tailor the board's size to what you are currently using, and there's room to grow should you add more pedals or bigger ones. If I was starting a new alpha/omega board from scratch, an XPND would be my first purchase.

My only suggestion would be to look into the D'Addario adjustable XPND pedalboard that folds into itself. AKA, you can tailor the board's size to what you are currently using, and there's room to grow should you add more pedals or bigger ones. If I was starting a new alpha/omega board from scratch, an XPND would be my first purchase.
re: Fret Shack- Question For Patrick
Posted by TheFretShack on 8/11/26 at 9:55 am to rexorotten
I have Carson's LP's SN on file so I probably photoshopped the actual number out to not share it with the Chibson sweatshops.
Patrick should be chiming in soon. Meanwhile, from my days at the helm ...
The big Q that determines headstock repair prices is if the client wants only a structural repair; or wants the repair plus cosmetic work (filler and spray prep, partial or full respray with compound and/or color match, wetsanding and buffing) to make the fix invisible or as unsightly as possible.
Simple structural repairs (clean crack or break) with light cosmetic cleanup (Carson's example) were typically between $100 and $200 when I did repair work.
Add missing wood and/or cosmetic cover-ups, however, and it will go up exponentially. Partial respray alone, depending on nitro vs poly, solid color match vs. transparent color concealment (EXTREMELY difficult, even for very experienced shops) ... expect at least double or triple, possibly even quintuple or sextuple, the price.
Patrick should be chiming in soon. Meanwhile, from my days at the helm ...
The big Q that determines headstock repair prices is if the client wants only a structural repair; or wants the repair plus cosmetic work (filler and spray prep, partial or full respray with compound and/or color match, wetsanding and buffing) to make the fix invisible or as unsightly as possible.
Simple structural repairs (clean crack or break) with light cosmetic cleanup (Carson's example) were typically between $100 and $200 when I did repair work.
Add missing wood and/or cosmetic cover-ups, however, and it will go up exponentially. Partial respray alone, depending on nitro vs poly, solid color match vs. transparent color concealment (EXTREMELY difficult, even for very experienced shops) ... expect at least double or triple, possibly even quintuple or sextuple, the price.
re: Is everyone still mad at Fender?
Posted by TheFretShack on 8/3/26 at 10:45 am to kingbob
It’s a temper tantrum by a rich company with deep pockets going after a bunch of small businesses.
More like a yes-man collective legal team being steered by a young and very ignorant CEO, who has yet to be enlightened that the best way to revitalize Fender/FMIC brands and eliminate competition ... is to simply make better guitars, across all price points.
"Bud" needs to quit talking to lawyers and instead talk to industry historians about how previous QC fumbles during the CBS years opened the door to "build a better mousetrap" competition in the first place; and how history is repeating itself, but exponentially worse in that 1970s guitarists, retailers, repair/tech guys, artists, etc., didn't have the internet to spread bad feedback and horrid PR like wildfire.
Bud needs to filter the legal retainer money to the assembly lines and QC payroll. And he needs to be lining up a Plan B for his livelihood because I expect him to be fired soon.
More like a yes-man collective legal team being steered by a young and very ignorant CEO, who has yet to be enlightened that the best way to revitalize Fender/FMIC brands and eliminate competition ... is to simply make better guitars, across all price points.
"Bud" needs to quit talking to lawyers and instead talk to industry historians about how previous QC fumbles during the CBS years opened the door to "build a better mousetrap" competition in the first place; and how history is repeating itself, but exponentially worse in that 1970s guitarists, retailers, repair/tech guys, artists, etc., didn't have the internet to spread bad feedback and horrid PR like wildfire.
Bud needs to filter the legal retainer money to the assembly lines and QC payroll. And he needs to be lining up a Plan B for his livelihood because I expect him to be fired soon.
re: Fender Mustang LT25
Posted by TheFretShack on 7/24/26 at 5:31 pm to jdd48
Yes it is, my most recent acquisition in fact.
Been wanting one for 40 years, specifically since "The Ultimate Ozzy" came out on VHS in August 1986. Finances and availability always got in the way.
Fast forward to 2026, and I start winding pickups for and working on guitars for the man himself. No more excuses or procrastinating, now I HAD to get my own blueburst to assist in "our" pickup prototype testing. How convenient :)

Been wanting one for 40 years, specifically since "The Ultimate Ozzy" came out on VHS in August 1986. Finances and availability always got in the way.
Fast forward to 2026, and I start winding pickups for and working on guitars for the man himself. No more excuses or procrastinating, now I HAD to get my own blueburst to assist in "our" pickup prototype testing. How convenient :)

re: Fender Mustang LT25
Posted by TheFretShack on 7/24/26 at 9:59 am to auggie
If Smart Jam refers to the backing tracks for practicing, I use it occasionally. Much much more fun than a simple metronome and a great creativity catalyst.
re: Fender Mustang LT25
Posted by TheFretShack on 7/24/26 at 9:34 am to deeprig9
I got an LT25 as a travel/hotel room amp several years ago. Great little amp tonally, don't let the digital and push buttons turn you off. Peruse the manual and learn the buttons (easy and quick), the features are very instinctual and well thought out IMHO.
I ended up selling the Mustang because I prefer travel amps that can run off battery power (pet peeve fueled by owning a Roland Micro Cube as my first travel amp). I replaced the LT25 with a Positive Grid Spark 40 that I rigged up to run off either wall juice OR a rechargeable battery pack I sourced affordably off Amazon. I adore this amp, I play it more than my full-sized "real" amps, it's fair to call it the MVP of my entire gear arsenal.
I also recently got a Spark GO for my guitar tech workbox/travel box that is insanely good for its size. Because the "brains" of Positive Grid amps is based in a phone app and in shared cloud files, I was able to take all my Spark presets and move them over to the GO, and then edit the patchs to compensate for tiny, tiny speakers.
Not used to having a killer little amp that's the size of a Boss stompbox. I joked on social media that I've bought bars of soap that were larger and heavier than this "amp."

I ended up selling the Mustang because I prefer travel amps that can run off battery power (pet peeve fueled by owning a Roland Micro Cube as my first travel amp). I replaced the LT25 with a Positive Grid Spark 40 that I rigged up to run off either wall juice OR a rechargeable battery pack I sourced affordably off Amazon. I adore this amp, I play it more than my full-sized "real" amps, it's fair to call it the MVP of my entire gear arsenal.
I also recently got a Spark GO for my guitar tech workbox/travel box that is insanely good for its size. Because the "brains" of Positive Grid amps is based in a phone app and in shared cloud files, I was able to take all my Spark presets and move them over to the GO, and then edit the patchs to compensate for tiny, tiny speakers.
Not used to having a killer little amp that's the size of a Boss stompbox. I joked on social media that I've bought bars of soap that were larger and heavier than this "amp."

re: How do you choose your guitar picks?
Posted by TheFretShack on 6/24/26 at 10:53 am to deeprig9
My go-to are Herco Flex 75 Holy Grails. A repair client gave me one years ago and I was an immediate convert. I love the thickness, the grip, the flex, the tone, the durability, everything about them.
AI says notable users include David Gilmour, Jimmy Page, Edward Van Halen, Pete Townshend, Joe Walsh, Gary Moore, Michael Schenker, Rory Gallagher, Rivers Cuomo and Josh Homme, among many others, so I'm in great company. :)
AI says notable users include David Gilmour, Jimmy Page, Edward Van Halen, Pete Townshend, Joe Walsh, Gary Moore, Michael Schenker, Rory Gallagher, Rivers Cuomo and Josh Homme, among many others, so I'm in great company. :)
re: Paging Fret Shack... The Luthier's Workshop Thread
Posted by TheFretShack on 6/3/26 at 10:08 am to auggie
I still haven't experimented with voicing great splittable mini humbuckers because of limited demand (you're still the only person who has ever asked me for this).
And mainly because minis were engineered and voiced to sound like hum-free Fender pickups (specifically JM-girth-meets-Jaguar-sparkle single coils) from the get-go.
The only takeaways from a split mini is the addition of 60 cycle hum, plus a significant volume drop because you are effectively shunting 50 percent of the pickup's output to ground.
You can get around that using a compressor to boost the split H signal, but it will also boost the 60 cycle hum. And compressors typically add considerable noise just by the circuit itself and how they are commonly used.
If that is what you want, I will wind a four-conductor mini. E-me at info AT carondeletpickups DOT com to initiate the custom order. And heads up, it will cost considerably more than a GFS.
And mainly because minis were engineered and voiced to sound like hum-free Fender pickups (specifically JM-girth-meets-Jaguar-sparkle single coils) from the get-go.
The only takeaways from a split mini is the addition of 60 cycle hum, plus a significant volume drop because you are effectively shunting 50 percent of the pickup's output to ground.
You can get around that using a compressor to boost the split H signal, but it will also boost the 60 cycle hum. And compressors typically add considerable noise just by the circuit itself and how they are commonly used.
If that is what you want, I will wind a four-conductor mini. E-me at info AT carondeletpickups DOT com to initiate the custom order. And heads up, it will cost considerably more than a GFS.
re: Paging Fret Shack... The Luthier's Workshop Thread
Posted by TheFretShack on 6/2/26 at 6:44 pm to deeprig9
It's time to refret if a.) you have any dead notes, unclean notes and/or buzzy fretted notes; b.) a setup alone doesn't fix the issues; c.) frets are seated properly, so that's not the issue; and d.) if there is not enough fret material left for fret leveling.
String changes are a matter of taste and scenario. If you like the snap and brightness of fresh strings, change frequently. If you perform live and don't want to break strings on stage, change frequently. If you record and want the best intonation you can get on tape, change frequently.
If you like the warm and mellow sound of older strings, and/or are a casual bedroom/den player who seldom if ever performs or records, don't change frequently.
String changes are a matter of taste and scenario. If you like the snap and brightness of fresh strings, change frequently. If you perform live and don't want to break strings on stage, change frequently. If you record and want the best intonation you can get on tape, change frequently.
If you like the warm and mellow sound of older strings, and/or are a casual bedroom/den player who seldom if ever performs or records, don't change frequently.
re: Paging Fret Shack... The Luthier's Workshop Thread
Posted by TheFretShack on 6/2/26 at 6:36 pm to deeprig9
Fret Shack Jeff is up to his eyeballs in Carondelet work orders, and Fret Shack Patrick in fretted repairs and upgrades. Great problem to have!
Fender's original "torino red" debuted on the Clapton sig models and was inspired by Eric's Ferrari's red color.
It has shown up in the Fender line as both a polyester variant finish (production model guitars) and as a nitrocellular lacquer finish (custom shop, vintage RIs).
As for cars/metal paint vs. wood paint vs. whatever ... you have to match the type of paint. Compatibility is the key, not the canvas on which it sits.
Your Epi (like most MIK, MIJ, MII guitars old and new) is a poly finish. So you will need a poly touch-up pen. Gibson shoots everything in nitro so my hunch is that their product is incompatible for your needs.
Be aware that poly is very difficult to touch up invisibly even for a pro, you will have trace evidence of your spot work. If you want your boo-boos to disappear without trace, you will very, very, very likely have to refin for desired results.
Fender's original "torino red" debuted on the Clapton sig models and was inspired by Eric's Ferrari's red color.
It has shown up in the Fender line as both a polyester variant finish (production model guitars) and as a nitrocellular lacquer finish (custom shop, vintage RIs).
As for cars/metal paint vs. wood paint vs. whatever ... you have to match the type of paint. Compatibility is the key, not the canvas on which it sits.
Your Epi (like most MIK, MIJ, MII guitars old and new) is a poly finish. So you will need a poly touch-up pen. Gibson shoots everything in nitro so my hunch is that their product is incompatible for your needs.
Be aware that poly is very difficult to touch up invisibly even for a pro, you will have trace evidence of your spot work. If you want your boo-boos to disappear without trace, you will very, very, very likely have to refin for desired results.
re: Gilmore EMG's for a Strat - Undecided
Posted by TheFretShack on 6/2/26 at 12:40 pm to deeprig9
A guitar in which the player is not reluctant to permanently modify to suit the instrument to his or her needs or tastes, i.e. a "tool" for the task at hand.
re: Gilmore EMG's for a Strat - Undecided
Posted by TheFretShack on 6/2/26 at 10:11 am to deeprig9
If the Strat is a player's tool, you can add a fast-access battery box to the back of the guitar. Here's a step by step I did a few years ago ...
Adding a battery box to a PRS Brent Mason Signature
--------------------------------------
If you want fast 9V access with no mods ... store it in the trem cavity between two heavy tension springs. Run the 9V clip leads into the conrol cavity through the claw ground's wire channel.
Adding a battery box to a PRS Brent Mason Signature
--------------------------------------
If you want fast 9V access with no mods ... store it in the trem cavity between two heavy tension springs. Run the 9V clip leads into the conrol cavity through the claw ground's wire channel.
re: Gilmore EMG's for a Strat - Undecided
Posted by TheFretShack on 6/1/26 at 11:51 am to Enadious
If anyone thinks a guitar pickup is just a magnetized copper coil, be sure to order tripe or even hooves instead of prime rib next time you visit a steak house. Because piece of cow is piece of cow, right? :) Seriously, pickups shape and shift a player's tone as much as they transmit signal, just as much as different amp and pedal types.
Beyond overall signal output ... factors pertaining to a passive pickup's coil alone that influence voice include but are not limited to coil wire thickness, insulation material and insulation thickness; turn count; wire tension and wire turns per layer.
Equally important to passive pickup voicing is magnet material, magnet size, magnet placement, magnet charge; and the collective metallurgy within the assembly. From plated metal covers to the different grades of steel used in pole screws and slugs, different alloys create different tonal results.
In the case of actives (EMG, Fishman, Bartolini, Live Wires), the preamp itself is a critical component in the assembly's voice. The preamp enables big huge output from sweet voicings typically only achieved via low to medium output passives.
The EMG Gilmour set is great for everything PF and really everything SSS. Be sure to integrate a "Gilmour switch" into the circuit if your assembly doesn't have it. It enables VERY utile "neck + bridge" and "all three pickups" as selection options. The Gilmour mod can be done with an added mini-toggle; or hidden in a push-pull pot to keep a stock S-type look. Google "Gilmour switch" for details.
Beyond overall signal output ... factors pertaining to a passive pickup's coil alone that influence voice include but are not limited to coil wire thickness, insulation material and insulation thickness; turn count; wire tension and wire turns per layer.
Equally important to passive pickup voicing is magnet material, magnet size, magnet placement, magnet charge; and the collective metallurgy within the assembly. From plated metal covers to the different grades of steel used in pole screws and slugs, different alloys create different tonal results.
In the case of actives (EMG, Fishman, Bartolini, Live Wires), the preamp itself is a critical component in the assembly's voice. The preamp enables big huge output from sweet voicings typically only achieved via low to medium output passives.
The EMG Gilmour set is great for everything PF and really everything SSS. Be sure to integrate a "Gilmour switch" into the circuit if your assembly doesn't have it. It enables VERY utile "neck + bridge" and "all three pickups" as selection options. The Gilmour mod can be done with an added mini-toggle; or hidden in a push-pull pot to keep a stock S-type look. Google "Gilmour switch" for details.
re: Charlie Starr fingerpicking lesson!
Posted by TheFretShack on 5/21/26 at 8:40 am to auggie
I wound Charlie some custom overwound Carondelet P-90s last year, and I delivered them at soundcheck prior to a local Smoke show. Knowing Charlie was eager to hear and feel his new "hogear" dogears, I wound an extra for my personal '55 LP Junior and brought it so he could check out the pickup through his live rig.
This is the raw, unedited Android vid of that first test-drive. My '55 Junior straight into his favorite 1960 (brownface) Fender Concert combo. It's also the most viewed reel on my YouTube channel. :)
Charlie's right hand wizardry on a solidbody electric
Watch how Charlie manipulates not only the vol and tone controls and his right hand attack ... but where on the scale length his right hand plays the strings. He could convincingly emulate a neck pickup on the bridge-pickup-only Junior, simply by adjusting his attack and doing it where a neck pickup would physically be located. Absolutely ingenious.
Great player, even greater person and friend. Warm, witty, humble, genuine, and appreciative. Meet him if you ever get the chance.
This is the raw, unedited Android vid of that first test-drive. My '55 Junior straight into his favorite 1960 (brownface) Fender Concert combo. It's also the most viewed reel on my YouTube channel. :)
Charlie's right hand wizardry on a solidbody electric
Watch how Charlie manipulates not only the vol and tone controls and his right hand attack ... but where on the scale length his right hand plays the strings. He could convincingly emulate a neck pickup on the bridge-pickup-only Junior, simply by adjusting his attack and doing it where a neck pickup would physically be located. Absolutely ingenious.
Great player, even greater person and friend. Warm, witty, humble, genuine, and appreciative. Meet him if you ever get the chance.
re: What's the best platform to sell a used musical instrument these days?
Posted by TheFretShack on 4/4/26 at 4:12 pm to dirtsandwich
I don't see what's confusing about anything I wrote. But if leading off with "moral" is confusing enough to discount my content leading up to it, probably a poor word choice on my part. I will eventually delete "moral" from the last graph so that it is not mistaken as a capsule summary for what I wrote leading up to the graph.
Also, I did not say only buy from storefronts. If you re-visit that paragraph, you will see my advice on what to look for regarding private sellers.
Speaking of advice ... while much of what I wrote should be common sense for any buyer or seller on any online platform ... everything I have written in this entire thread is my own two cents. Your own mileage and experiences and opinions on these platforms may - and should - vary.
Also, I did not say only buy from storefronts. If you re-visit that paragraph, you will see my advice on what to look for regarding private sellers.
Speaking of advice ... while much of what I wrote should be common sense for any buyer or seller on any online platform ... everything I have written in this entire thread is my own two cents. Your own mileage and experiences and opinions on these platforms may - and should - vary.
re: What's the best platform to sell a used musical instrument these days?
Posted by TheFretShack on 4/4/26 at 12:13 pm to shutterspeed
You are going to get eaten alive $$$-wise taking an instrument to a shipping place and having them supply the box and padding material and having them pack it for you on top of the shipping fee and insurance.
There are tutorials galore on YouTube on how to properly pack and ship a guitar or bass. You can buy boxes from the UPS and FedEx stores, from Uline, from Reverb and I think Amazon. A true cheapskate like me dumpster dives at GC for thrown-away boxes.
Don't pad the box with peanuts, they shift and settle in transit and leave the top of the parcel unprotected. Use crumpled paper, old newspapers, old catalogs. Tip from a pro ... it's actually cheaper to go to a second-hand bookstore and buy markdowns and/or stupidly discounted damaged books and harvest and re-use that paper than it is to buy formal packing insulation materials.
There are tutorials galore on YouTube on how to properly pack and ship a guitar or bass. You can buy boxes from the UPS and FedEx stores, from Uline, from Reverb and I think Amazon. A true cheapskate like me dumpster dives at GC for thrown-away boxes.
Don't pad the box with peanuts, they shift and settle in transit and leave the top of the parcel unprotected. Use crumpled paper, old newspapers, old catalogs. Tip from a pro ... it's actually cheaper to go to a second-hand bookstore and buy markdowns and/or stupidly discounted damaged books and harvest and re-use that paper than it is to buy formal packing insulation materials.
re: What's the best platform to sell a used musical instrument these days?
Posted by TheFretShack on 4/4/26 at 11:26 am to shutterspeed
I'm getting great rates for UPS and USPS via pirateship.com. I can't speak highly enough about Pirate Ship as a third-party shipping intermediary. They actually caught an overestimate on my part by a few ounces on a parcel I sent and refunded me a little postage!
re: What's the best platform to sell a used musical instrument these days?
Posted by TheFretShack on 4/4/26 at 10:13 am to TheFretShack
The best way to sell these days IMHO is through social media. But not just Facebook Marketplace, also (especially) specialty enthusiast pages on FB with names like "Baton Rouge Musicians" or "South Louisiana Guitarists." Same goes for forums like this one ... in 11 years of coming here, I can't tell you about any other section of Tiger Droppings, I'm just here for the Music Board and all y'all :)
Pros: No commissions. In your backyard, so no shipping fees. Because they are localized groups, there's a great shot buyers/sellers are mutual friends, former band mates, go to the same music venues or stores, etc.
Also, just a tip ... don't wait until you "need" those enthusiast pages or forums. Join them now, participate and contribute, give before you take, and establish your reputation and merit before it's needed.
Pros: No commissions. In your backyard, so no shipping fees. Because they are localized groups, there's a great shot buyers/sellers are mutual friends, former band mates, go to the same music venues or stores, etc.
Also, just a tip ... don't wait until you "need" those enthusiast pages or forums. Join them now, participate and contribute, give before you take, and establish your reputation and merit before it's needed.
re: What's the best platform to sell a used musical instrument these days?
Posted by TheFretShack on 4/4/26 at 9:55 am to TheFretShack
Reverb: They also typically side with buyers over sellers in a toss-up scenario, but they have third-party moderators who are good about looking at both sides objectively and making the proper decision.
I bought a $1700 guitar on Reverb a few months ago and after the seller exhibited very shady delays and responses why regarding shipping the instrument, I reported it and requested Reverb's mods review our messaging history and timelines. Reverb cancelled the transaction immediately - like within an hour - refunded my money within one day, thanked me for reporting the seller and banished his Reverb presence.
Be aware, however, that the fees to sell have creeped up since they became a leader in gear transactions. They are currently at 5% commission on the total sale amount (including shipping, which is skyrocketing in recent times) and a payment processing fee of 3.19% + $0.49.
I bought a $1700 guitar on Reverb a few months ago and after the seller exhibited very shady delays and responses why regarding shipping the instrument, I reported it and requested Reverb's mods review our messaging history and timelines. Reverb cancelled the transaction immediately - like within an hour - refunded my money within one day, thanked me for reporting the seller and banished his Reverb presence.
Be aware, however, that the fees to sell have creeped up since they became a leader in gear transactions. They are currently at 5% commission on the total sale amount (including shipping, which is skyrocketing in recent times) and a payment processing fee of 3.19% + $0.49.
Popular
0











