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"Woodworking" Tool...Is a "power chisel" the right tool for my project?

Posted on 3/2/19 at 5:12 pm
Posted by dawg23
Baton Rouge, La
Member since Jul 2011
5065 posts
Posted on 3/2/19 at 5:12 pm
Not really "woodworking" -- need to remove a small length (maybe 16" long) of 2x4 that cabinet maker glued into the base of the opening that our microwave over sits in.

Apparently it was glued in to make a snug fit for the microwave -- now the microwave has died (after 20 years) and every oven we can find is much smaller or slightly "deeper" than the old one.

Is a "power chisel" the right tool for cutting this 2x4 out ? Obviously I'd then need to sand out all the rough spots and imperfections that are all but guaranteed if I use one of these.

Power Chisel
This post was edited on 3/7/19 at 5:16 pm
Posted by Clames
Member since Oct 2010
16539 posts
Posted on 3/2/19 at 5:38 pm to
That might work but any oscillating tool can do the same for half the cost. They often have a flat chisel scraper blade. Personally, I'd use a long prybar ($10 at Harbor Freight) and a hammer and pop that sucker out.
Posted by Bigbee Hills
Member since Feb 2019
1531 posts
Posted on 3/2/19 at 5:43 pm to
I agree with Clames. If I didnt use the prybar method, I'd definitely go with the oscillating tool.
Posted by dawg23
Baton Rouge, La
Member since Jul 2011
5065 posts
Posted on 3/2/19 at 6:24 pm to
Thanks -- to you & Clames.

Knew I needed something smaller than a chainsaw -- just wasn't sure what tool to try.
Posted by fishfighter
RIP
Member since Apr 2008
40026 posts
Posted on 3/2/19 at 6:24 pm to
Really need a couple pictures for me to tell the best way.
Posted by TheArrogantCorndog
Highland Rd
Member since Sep 2009
14814 posts
Posted on 3/2/19 at 6:41 pm to
From what I read in the OP... this looks like what you need


Pretty awesome tool (pick your brand of course), tbh... I've used one on many different remodels
Posted by Martini
Near Athens
Member since Mar 2005
48829 posts
Posted on 3/2/19 at 6:47 pm to
Why not a reciprocating saw?
Posted by jamboybarry
Member since Feb 2011
32642 posts
Posted on 3/2/19 at 6:54 pm to
Assuming this is in finished cabinets, the longer stroke of the recip saw would likely tear up the surrounding trim. Agree with either oscillating tool (short high intensity stroke) or hammer/pry bar depending on location and room to work.
Posted by Clames
Member since Oct 2010
16539 posts
Posted on 3/2/19 at 7:03 pm to
quote:

Why not a reciprocating saw?


Don't think he'd want to try jack-hammering the blade under a glued down 2x4.
Posted by yattan
Member since Nov 2013
897 posts
Posted on 3/2/19 at 8:34 pm to
Uh, what’s wrong with using a smaller micro?
Posted by lsutiger2010
Member since Aug 2008
14790 posts
Posted on 3/2/19 at 8:36 pm to
(no message)
This post was edited on 10/19/21 at 2:24 pm
Posted by Clames
Member since Oct 2010
16539 posts
Posted on 3/2/19 at 9:24 pm to
Uh, what’s wrong with using a smaller micro?

That's kind of a specialty tool for something like this. I have one and I've jammed it on sheetrock enough to know it wouldn't work any better for the OP.
Posted by mallardhank
Atlanta
Member since Feb 2006
1275 posts
Posted on 3/3/19 at 6:45 am to
The oscillating tool is your best bet. Ive literally worn out two of the 12 volt Ridgid tools and have a third one. Small enough to get into very tight spaces. Used here to modify commercial casework. Keep sharp blades and don't force the tool.
Posted by Bigbee Hills
Member since Feb 2019
1531 posts
Posted on 3/3/19 at 1:57 pm to
I honestly wonder how remodeling was done before the oscillating tool came out mainstream.

Years ago we were putting some cabinets in and had to rent one from the building supply to cut shims off. They didnt even sell the things because they were so expensive.

That's just a flat-out good tool to have around.
Posted by dawg23
Baton Rouge, La
Member since Jul 2011
5065 posts
Posted on 3/3/19 at 4:07 pm to
I have a couple of photos, but literally have no experience in posting/hosting sites for images.

I may be able to describe it:

* It's an empty "cube" cabinet opening into which the original microwave oven was slid.

* The "cube" is the size of a 2.0 cubic ft. oven -- 24" wide, 13" tall and 22" deep.

* The offending 2x4 is glued to the base of the cube, at the rear of the opening, and extends from the right edge to the left edge of the "cube."

* All of the cabinets are cypress. The base of the opening is some cheaper wood stained to sorta match the cypress -- but it isn't visible once the microwave is in position.

* The purpose of the 2x4 was to keep the original microwave from sliding deeper into the opening whenever the door was pushed to the closed position. The new microwave is slightly bigger, so we need the extra depth.

* If the cutting tool gouges the base of the "cube" slightly, it won't be a big deal (since it'll be covered by the microwave). But I don't want to chew the wood up any more than is necessary.

Hope this serves to explain better. And thanks again to everyone who has responded.
Posted by Art Vandelay
LOUISIANA
Member since Sep 2005
10691 posts
Posted on 3/3/19 at 7:25 pm to
Sounds like a great excuse to get an oscillating saw. Even if it doesn’t work for what you need to do
Posted by Martini
Near Athens
Member since Mar 2005
48829 posts
Posted on 3/3/19 at 7:37 pm to
Use a sawzall with a fine tooth blade. It won’t tear it up if you are careful. That is the only tool you need except maybe a small prybar to help along.
Posted by tenfoe
Member since Jun 2011
6839 posts
Posted on 3/3/19 at 8:29 pm to
Just find a friend with an oscillating tool as mentioned to come cut it out in exchange for beer or ammo.
Posted by lsutiger2010
Member since Aug 2008
14790 posts
Posted on 3/3/19 at 11:36 pm to
(no message)
This post was edited on 10/19/21 at 2:23 pm
Posted by dawg23
Baton Rouge, La
Member since Jul 2011
5065 posts
Posted on 3/4/19 at 8:44 am to
Found this one on Amazon - it had pretty high rating.
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