- My Forums
- Tiger Rant
- LSU Recruiting
- SEC Rant
- Saints Talk
- Pelicans Talk
- More Sports Board
- Fantasy Sports
- Golf Board
- Soccer Board
- O-T Lounge
- Tech Board
- Home/Garden Board
- Outdoor Board
- Health/Fitness Board
- Movie/TV Board
- Book Board
- Music Board
- Political Talk
- Money Talk
- Fark Board
- Gaming Board
- Travel Board
- Food/Drink Board
- Ticket Exchange
- TD Help Board
Customize My Forums- View All Forums
- Show Left Links
- Topic Sort Options
- Trending Topics
- Recent Topics
- Active Topics
Started By
Message
"Woodworking" Tool...Is a "power chisel" the right tool for my project?
Posted on 3/2/19 at 5:12 pm
Posted on 3/2/19 at 5:12 pm
Not really "woodworking" -- need to remove a small length (maybe 16" long) of 2x4 that cabinet maker glued into the base of the opening that our microwave over sits in.
Apparently it was glued in to make a snug fit for the microwave -- now the microwave has died (after 20 years) and every oven we can find is much smaller or slightly "deeper" than the old one.
Is a "power chisel" the right tool for cutting this 2x4 out ? Obviously I'd then need to sand out all the rough spots and imperfections that are all but guaranteed if I use one of these.
Power Chisel
Apparently it was glued in to make a snug fit for the microwave -- now the microwave has died (after 20 years) and every oven we can find is much smaller or slightly "deeper" than the old one.
Is a "power chisel" the right tool for cutting this 2x4 out ? Obviously I'd then need to sand out all the rough spots and imperfections that are all but guaranteed if I use one of these.
Power Chisel
This post was edited on 3/7/19 at 5:16 pm
Posted on 3/2/19 at 5:38 pm to dawg23
That might work but any oscillating tool can do the same for half the cost. They often have a flat chisel scraper blade. Personally, I'd use a long prybar ($10 at Harbor Freight) and a hammer and pop that sucker out.
Posted on 3/2/19 at 5:43 pm to Clames
I agree with Clames. If I didnt use the prybar method, I'd definitely go with the oscillating tool.
Posted on 3/2/19 at 6:24 pm to Bigbee Hills
Thanks -- to you & Clames.
Knew I needed something smaller than a chainsaw -- just wasn't sure what tool to try.
Knew I needed something smaller than a chainsaw -- just wasn't sure what tool to try.
Posted on 3/2/19 at 6:24 pm to Bigbee Hills
Really need a couple pictures for me to tell the best way.
Posted on 3/2/19 at 6:41 pm to dawg23
From what I read in the OP... this looks like what you need
Pretty awesome tool (pick your brand of course), tbh... I've used one on many different remodels
Pretty awesome tool (pick your brand of course), tbh... I've used one on many different remodels
Posted on 3/2/19 at 6:47 pm to TheArrogantCorndog
Why not a reciprocating saw?
Posted on 3/2/19 at 6:54 pm to Martini
Assuming this is in finished cabinets, the longer stroke of the recip saw would likely tear up the surrounding trim. Agree with either oscillating tool (short high intensity stroke) or hammer/pry bar depending on location and room to work.
Posted on 3/2/19 at 7:03 pm to Martini
quote:
Why not a reciprocating saw?
Don't think he'd want to try jack-hammering the blade under a glued down 2x4.
Posted on 3/2/19 at 8:34 pm to Clames
Uh, what’s wrong with using a smaller micro?
Posted on 3/2/19 at 8:36 pm to dawg23
(no message)
This post was edited on 10/19/21 at 2:24 pm
Posted on 3/2/19 at 9:24 pm to yattan
Uh, what’s wrong with using a smaller micro?
That's kind of a specialty tool for something like this. I have one and I've jammed it on sheetrock enough to know it wouldn't work any better for the OP.
That's kind of a specialty tool for something like this. I have one and I've jammed it on sheetrock enough to know it wouldn't work any better for the OP.
Posted on 3/3/19 at 6:45 am to Clames
The oscillating tool is your best bet. Ive literally worn out two of the 12 volt Ridgid tools and have a third one. Small enough to get into very tight spaces. Used here to modify commercial casework. Keep sharp blades and don't force the tool.
Posted on 3/3/19 at 1:57 pm to TheArrogantCorndog
I honestly wonder how remodeling was done before the oscillating tool came out mainstream.
Years ago we were putting some cabinets in and had to rent one from the building supply to cut shims off. They didnt even sell the things because they were so expensive.
That's just a flat-out good tool to have around.
Years ago we were putting some cabinets in and had to rent one from the building supply to cut shims off. They didnt even sell the things because they were so expensive.
That's just a flat-out good tool to have around.
Posted on 3/3/19 at 4:07 pm to fishfighter
I have a couple of photos, but literally have no experience in posting/hosting sites for images.
I may be able to describe it:
* It's an empty "cube" cabinet opening into which the original microwave oven was slid.
* The "cube" is the size of a 2.0 cubic ft. oven -- 24" wide, 13" tall and 22" deep.
* The offending 2x4 is glued to the base of the cube, at the rear of the opening, and extends from the right edge to the left edge of the "cube."
* All of the cabinets are cypress. The base of the opening is some cheaper wood stained to sorta match the cypress -- but it isn't visible once the microwave is in position.
* The purpose of the 2x4 was to keep the original microwave from sliding deeper into the opening whenever the door was pushed to the closed position. The new microwave is slightly bigger, so we need the extra depth.
* If the cutting tool gouges the base of the "cube" slightly, it won't be a big deal (since it'll be covered by the microwave). But I don't want to chew the wood up any more than is necessary.
Hope this serves to explain better. And thanks again to everyone who has responded.
I may be able to describe it:
* It's an empty "cube" cabinet opening into which the original microwave oven was slid.
* The "cube" is the size of a 2.0 cubic ft. oven -- 24" wide, 13" tall and 22" deep.
* The offending 2x4 is glued to the base of the cube, at the rear of the opening, and extends from the right edge to the left edge of the "cube."
* All of the cabinets are cypress. The base of the opening is some cheaper wood stained to sorta match the cypress -- but it isn't visible once the microwave is in position.
* The purpose of the 2x4 was to keep the original microwave from sliding deeper into the opening whenever the door was pushed to the closed position. The new microwave is slightly bigger, so we need the extra depth.
* If the cutting tool gouges the base of the "cube" slightly, it won't be a big deal (since it'll be covered by the microwave). But I don't want to chew the wood up any more than is necessary.
Hope this serves to explain better. And thanks again to everyone who has responded.
Posted on 3/3/19 at 7:25 pm to dawg23
Sounds like a great excuse to get an oscillating saw. Even if it doesn’t work for what you need to do
Posted on 3/3/19 at 7:37 pm to dawg23
Use a sawzall with a fine tooth blade. It won’t tear it up if you are careful. That is the only tool you need except maybe a small prybar to help along.
Posted on 3/3/19 at 8:29 pm to dawg23
Just find a friend with an oscillating tool as mentioned to come cut it out in exchange for beer or ammo.
Posted on 3/3/19 at 11:36 pm to tenfoe
(no message)
This post was edited on 10/19/21 at 2:23 pm
Posted on 3/4/19 at 8:44 am to lsutiger2010
Found this one on Amazon - it had pretty high rating.
LINK
LINK
Popular
Back to top
Follow TigerDroppings for LSU Football News