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Warmer temps are here - attic furnace drip pan filling fast
Posted on 2/24/23 at 8:45 am
Posted on 2/24/23 at 8:45 am
Just had to drain my A/C drip pan for the first time in 2023, and definintely won't be the last. Just started putting those condensation pan tablets in a few months ago and have been doing them monthly, along with the scheduled 30x25x1 intake filter replacement.
Any suggestions to avoid having this pan fill up as often?
I just learned I can program my house to run the fan without the cooling function on throughout the day, so I'm hoping that keeps the house cooler for longer when we're not at home instead of just shutting down everything and running a/c when we arrive.
Willing to take all worthwhile suggestions on DIY a/c maintenance.
UPDATE: for clarification, the secondary drain pan is what fill up and it seems that the solution now is to clean the drain line.
Any suggestions to avoid having this pan fill up as often?
I just learned I can program my house to run the fan without the cooling function on throughout the day, so I'm hoping that keeps the house cooler for longer when we're not at home instead of just shutting down everything and running a/c when we arrive.
Willing to take all worthwhile suggestions on DIY a/c maintenance.
UPDATE: for clarification, the secondary drain pan is what fill up and it seems that the solution now is to clean the drain line.
This post was edited on 2/24/23 at 11:02 am
Posted on 2/24/23 at 9:28 am to BilbeauTBaggins
You don't have a pump to move this out of the house?
Posted on 2/24/23 at 9:31 am to BilbeauTBaggins
This is confusing. Do you not have a drain line hooked into the air handler coming from the coil drain pan? It should be draining to sewer.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 9:51 am to BilbeauTBaggins
Is it the pan under the coil or the overflow pan under the unit?
Posted on 2/24/23 at 9:57 am to JusTrollin
quote:
This is confusing. Do you not have a drain line hooked into the air handler coming from the coil drain pan? It should be draining to sewer.
And if you do, the first step should be to clear whatever blockage you have here
Posted on 2/24/23 at 10:22 am to BilbeauTBaggins
Unless you have some type of weird, not to code install, it sounds as though your primary drain is plugged and the condensate water is overflowing into your secondary emergency drain pan.
You, or a HVAC tech, need to clean or remove any obstruction in the primary drain line. When this has happened to me, I’ve been able to clean the primary drain every time by pouring bleach via the condensate drain line vent tube, connected to drain line, next to the furnace/cased evaporator coil. If the obstruction/blockage is in between the vent tube and the evaporator coil, then a tech would either use compressed air or suction to clear it.
Once clear, maintain the drain line by pouring vinegar 3 or 4 times a year down the vent tube/and or adding chlorine tablets a couple times a year to the primary drain pan inside the cased evaporator coil.
TLDR: if you have water collecting in your secondary drip pan, your primary drain line is plugged, and it needs to be cleaned, either by you or a HVAC tech.
You, or a HVAC tech, need to clean or remove any obstruction in the primary drain line. When this has happened to me, I’ve been able to clean the primary drain every time by pouring bleach via the condensate drain line vent tube, connected to drain line, next to the furnace/cased evaporator coil. If the obstruction/blockage is in between the vent tube and the evaporator coil, then a tech would either use compressed air or suction to clear it.
Once clear, maintain the drain line by pouring vinegar 3 or 4 times a year down the vent tube/and or adding chlorine tablets a couple times a year to the primary drain pan inside the cased evaporator coil.
TLDR: if you have water collecting in your secondary drip pan, your primary drain line is plugged, and it needs to be cleaned, either by you or a HVAC tech.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 10:37 am to BilbeauTBaggins
quote:Running the fan only will make the conditioned space more humid and not cooler during summer. It's basically circulating unconditioned air heated by attic temps throughout the interior/conditioned space of you home.
I just learned I can program my house to run the fan without the cooling function on throughout the day, so I'm hoping that keeps the house cooler for longer when we're not at home instead of just shutting down everything and running a/c when we arrive.
I'm assuming you emptied the secondary drain pan which has a float switch? Your primary pan drain is likely clogged, and maybe the secondary drain is clogged too (if the secondary has a drain).
Posted on 2/24/23 at 10:43 am to White Bear
quote:
Running the fan only will make the conditioned space more humid and not cooler during summer.
Unless you add moisture it won't make it more humid but it will also not make it cooler. Eventually, it will actually warm the air even if the attic is not much warmer. Warming the air will actually reduce the relative humidity unless there is available moisture added to the air.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 10:53 am to JusTrollin
I will clarify. This is the emergency drain pan (with the shutoff switch that will cut power to the furnace when water fills). Based on what everyone is saying, seems like I just need to do a full on cleaning of the drain.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 10:55 am to mdomingue
quote:Thanks. To follow up on your point on humidity, a full drain pan would suffice. But i admit i wasn't considering having to have a source for the humidity in my previous post.
Unless you add moisture it won't make it more humid but it will also not make it cooler. Eventually, it will actually warm the air even if the attic is not much warmer. Warming the air will actually reduce the relative humidity unless there is available moisture added to the air.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 11:54 am to BilbeauTBaggins
GOT to add bleach to the line every year at minimum. Just a 1/2 cup will do. For now i would say blow with compressed air then follow by bleach.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 11:59 am to BilbeauTBaggins
I would take the cover off the coil and check the pan under the coil. Nu-calgon sells blue pouches you can sit in there to prevent slime for 6 months.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 12:02 pm to BilbeauTBaggins
quote:
I just need to do a full on cleaning of the drain.
this ^^^^^^
cut the line right near the coil box and then blow into the line as hard as you can, that will push the blockage out of the line.
then if water wasnt pouring out of the coil box after you cut the pipe, stick something soft in the line to did out whatever is blocking it.
use a stick or something and swirl it around until you see the water start coming out. if there was no water in there than your main coil pan rusted out and the coil pan or the coil itself needs to be replaced to fix it
when you are done put a tee to reconnect the line with a short pipe on top with a cap on it so you can remove the cap to add a little bleach every few months.
i dont glue the tee fitting to the pipe, so if it gets blocked again you can just pull the fitting back off of the coil box drain line to clear it. it has no pressure, so fittings can be just pushed on and it still seals it perfectly fine
This post was edited on 2/24/23 at 1:05 pm
Posted on 2/24/23 at 1:16 pm to keakar
We actually have T pipe connection and it flows well. I think it's usually just some minor blockage, but we've never really done a thorough cleaning with any type of chemicals. The most I've ever put is hot water that was recently boiling. It's just a big pain to have to crawl through the back of the attic due to the drain being in a very inconvenient spot.
Posted on 2/24/23 at 5:12 pm to BilbeauTBaggins
quote:
We actually have T pipe connection and it flows well. I think it's usually just some minor blockage, but we've never really done a thorough cleaning with any type of chemicals. The most I've ever put is hot water that was recently boiling. It's just a big pain to have to crawl through the back of the attic due to the drain being in a very inconvenient spot.
doesnt need much, just an ounce of bleach in it every 2 months is good enough to stop mildew growing to clog things up.
just be sure to cap the tee, you dont want to create a ready made water source for mice.
pan under unit should stay dry unless the main drain line is clogged, or the pan inside no longer holds water
oh, another tip is, if the coil box end seems clogged, use a shop vac to suck the clog out, so your not pushing clumps of shite back in trying to unblock it
This post was edited on 2/25/23 at 10:20 pm
Posted on 2/25/23 at 9:05 am to CrawDude
quote:
either by you or a HVAC tech
Try using a code hanger or pipe snake 1st... If the cloud is too far down we can use C02 push it through the line. At that point it's easy enough to call a tech. For a 100 bucks they have all the equipment
Posted on 2/25/23 at 8:25 pm to BilbeauTBaggins
toss a chlorine puck in there
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