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Posted on 9/6/22 at 1:52 pm to TygerB8
quote:
According to them, eventually the CYA approaches levels that do not allow for appropriate free chlorine levels and the only remedy is to drain pool.
This happened to me once when I first got the pool because I continued to add tablets all winter not realizing algae wouldn't grow in the cold water.
I only had to pump about 6 inches of water out of the pool and refill with fresh water.
Posted on 9/7/22 at 8:02 am to indytiger
TFP since day 1 and I have never had an algae bloom in 3 years. Always crystal clear, no stains on my white pebble plaster. Buy a Taylor test kit and take control of the process.
Posted on 9/7/22 at 8:49 am to Tigerlaff
Any specific Taylor test kit y’all recommend? I noticed there were several different types on Amazon.
Posted on 9/7/22 at 10:07 am to RaginCajunz
quote:This is me, I dont understand the demand for acid and having to add so frequently, but pool is crystal clear and everything stays in align with just some CYA every few months.
Salt water pool. I test the PH regularly and almost always need to add acid. I test the chlorine periodically and it is almost always in a good range. I try to test the other stuff about once a month. (CYA, Total Alkalinity, calcium hardness)
Posted on 9/7/22 at 10:16 am to tigerfoot
quote:
This is me, I dont understand the demand for acid and having to add so frequently, but pool is crystal clear and everything stays in align with just some CYA every few months.
The salt cell breaks table salt (NaCl) into free chlorine and sodium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide has a very high PH so you always have to add acid to neutralize it.
Posted on 9/7/22 at 11:24 am to RaginCajunz
quote:i have the opposite problem. can never get the pH and alkalinity up high enough without adding one or 2 large bags of baking soda a season.
Sodium hydroxide has a very high PH so you always have to add acid to neutralize it.
Posted on 9/7/22 at 11:37 am to RaginCajunz
quote:Thanks for the explanation.
Sodium hydroxide has a very high PH so you always have to add acid to neutralize it.
Posted on 9/8/22 at 5:39 pm to indytiger
I slam at beginning of season and use the strips to maintain for rest of the season(specifically AquaChek 7-in-1, really is the best brand of strips don’t cheap out).
I used to use the professional Taylor kit, but it really is not necessary IMO once you get a feel for it.
I also use borate in my pool, and highly, highly recommend using them.
If you’re gonna DIY it then trouble-free is great.
I used to use the professional Taylor kit, but it really is not necessary IMO once you get a feel for it.
I also use borate in my pool, and highly, highly recommend using them.
If you’re gonna DIY it then trouble-free is great.
Posted on 9/8/22 at 5:57 pm to indytiger
that is how we ran our pool. The trouble free method is easy, the mistake was having a pool on a heavily treed lot. If I ever did a pool again it would have to have a HUGE no tree zone around it.
Posted on 9/10/22 at 11:33 am to AmosMosesAndTwins
quote:
I just ordered this one: Taylor 2000 Service Complete and Salt Water Drop Swimming Pool and Spa Test Kits LINK
does this one do the “FAS/DPD chlorine test”?
Posted on 9/17/22 at 2:58 pm to indytiger
where do y'all buy your pool chemicals?
up until last week i've been bringing samples to the pool store that built my pool and buying chemicals there. obviously i was spending a bunch of money, way more than needed.
for example a 27 lb bag of bioguard mineral springs beginnings is 40 bucks and a 40lb bag of mortons swimming pool salt from lowes is 10 bucks.
what about the other chemicals needed?
up until last week i've been bringing samples to the pool store that built my pool and buying chemicals there. obviously i was spending a bunch of money, way more than needed.
for example a 27 lb bag of bioguard mineral springs beginnings is 40 bucks and a 40lb bag of mortons swimming pool salt from lowes is 10 bucks.
what about the other chemicals needed?
Posted on 9/18/22 at 8:55 am to indytiger
I spend a couple hundred bucks on chemicals each year. Bleach, cya, borax, and muriatic acid. Salt water and you never smell chlorine. How much did you spend this year?
Posted on 9/18/22 at 4:13 pm to PTBob
I like The Watermaker in Broussard. Very knowledgeable staff, and they serve the offshore industry so they're a little more reliable than your average pool store clerk. If you happen to live in the area I can't recommend them enough.
Posted on 9/19/22 at 9:46 am to Kandy477
quote:
DANGER WILL ROBINSON
You think removing 6" of water is going to crack a pool?
I'm good either way, I have a liner pool.
Posted on 9/19/22 at 10:17 am to REB BEER
quote:
I'm good either way, I have a liner pool.
you ever seen a liner after draining a pool? yes, removing 6-12" water isn't going to hurt anything so i'm not sure what the other poster is talking about. no one is suggesting you completely drain your pool on TFP
Posted on 9/19/22 at 1:30 pm to REB BEER
Six inches? No. I've made a lot of money on people that drain a little deeper than that, though. Fiberglass pools start to bow when you drain them deeper than the skimmer.
A crack repair and resurfacing of a fiberglass pool very well may set you back $25,000. I'd much rather just resurface your pool without having to stitch it back together first. Just trying to be helpful.
A crack repair and resurfacing of a fiberglass pool very well may set you back $25,000. I'd much rather just resurface your pool without having to stitch it back together first. Just trying to be helpful.
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