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Started By
Message
preparing St. Aug lawn for the fall - South LA
Posted on 8/4/23 at 8:29 am
Posted on 8/4/23 at 8:29 am
Good morning all,
These summer temps seem to be staying steady hot throughout. Does anyone here know when it's recommended to start doing any post-summer fertilization/herbicide before the winter? Or is it just better to wait throughout the winter. I'm trying to tackle my future problems early before they occur.
These summer temps seem to be staying steady hot throughout. Does anyone here know when it's recommended to start doing any post-summer fertilization/herbicide before the winter? Or is it just better to wait throughout the winter. I'm trying to tackle my future problems early before they occur.
6
Posted on 8/4/23 at 9:17 am to BilbeauTBaggins
With the way so many of us have been battling to keep our lawns sustainable this summer, this is a great idea to start prepping for the next phase of giving lawns the best chance moving forward. Information for prepping Centipede lawns needed, as well.
TIA
TIA
Posted on 8/4/23 at 9:25 am to BilbeauTBaggins
How far south?
My St Aug never goes dormant in New Orleans
My St Aug never goes dormant in New Orleans
Posted on 8/4/23 at 9:32 am to fightin tigers
Baton Rouge
Posted on 8/4/23 at 10:20 am to BilbeauTBaggins
Your lawn will go dormant when the average soil temperatures are about 55 degrees. If your schedule calls for a fertilization, get it down in the next week or two so your lawn can deplete that nitrogen source and go into dormancy naturally.
You actually want your lawn to go into dormancy to protect itself against the cold temperatures. A perfect example of that is we had an early green up in the Baton Rouge area this year. We then had that freeze in March which decimated almost everyone’s centipede lawns. The lawns would have been fine if they were still in dormancy.
Fall/winter fertilizing is bad for two reasons. The first is that it will trick your lawn into thinking it still needs to grow, it will not go into dormancy to protect itself from the cold temperatures, the growth will slow because of the colder temperatures, but it will still be awake and get decimated by frost. The second reason is you’ll be fertilizing winter weeds.
You actually want your lawn to go into dormancy to protect itself against the cold temperatures. A perfect example of that is we had an early green up in the Baton Rouge area this year. We then had that freeze in March which decimated almost everyone’s centipede lawns. The lawns would have been fine if they were still in dormancy.
Fall/winter fertilizing is bad for two reasons. The first is that it will trick your lawn into thinking it still needs to grow, it will not go into dormancy to protect itself from the cold temperatures, the growth will slow because of the colder temperatures, but it will still be awake and get decimated by frost. The second reason is you’ll be fertilizing winter weeds.
Posted on 8/4/23 at 10:23 am to BilbeauTBaggins
Baton Rouge - If you haven’t fertilized the lawn in the past 2 or 3 months August is a good time for a second or third application fertilizer on St Augustine - always good to time the application before a rain to water it in or water it in with sprinklers within a week or 2.
Post-emergent herbicides - apply as needed throughout the year with appropriate herbicides at the temperatures we are experiencing, recognizing of course if the lawn is under stress from drought, heat, disease, etc that post-emergent herbicide application can negatively impact the lawn - lawn grasses are “tolerant” of recommended herbicides, not totally immune. In order words, avoid a full lawn application of post-emergent herbicide if you feel the lawn is under stress.
Late September/early Oct, you’ll be looking at application of pre-emergent herbicide - goal is to apply it before cool season weed seeds germinate, starting a soil temperature of 70 F, but not too far in advance.
Post-emergent herbicides - apply as needed throughout the year with appropriate herbicides at the temperatures we are experiencing, recognizing of course if the lawn is under stress from drought, heat, disease, etc that post-emergent herbicide application can negatively impact the lawn - lawn grasses are “tolerant” of recommended herbicides, not totally immune. In order words, avoid a full lawn application of post-emergent herbicide if you feel the lawn is under stress.
Late September/early Oct, you’ll be looking at application of pre-emergent herbicide - goal is to apply it before cool season weed seeds germinate, starting a soil temperature of 70 F, but not too far in advance.
This post was edited on 8/4/23 at 2:44 pm
Posted on 8/4/23 at 11:08 am to CrawDude
I've still got a massive bag of the Scotts Bonus S Weed & Feed (bought in early February/March). Would the "feed" portion of it be good to use this? I'm probably two applications away from getting rid of the bag and don't want to trash it unless necessary.
Weeds are no biggie right now. I've been lucky to avoid those this summer.
Weeds are no biggie right now. I've been lucky to avoid those this summer.
Posted on 8/4/23 at 12:06 pm to BilbeauTBaggins
Not an expert but weed n feed in this heat may harm the grass
Posted on 8/4/23 at 1:04 pm to BilbeauTBaggins
quote:
I've still got a massive bag of the Scotts Bonus S Weed & Feed (bought in early February/March). Would the "feed" portion of it be good to use this?
Yeah, just hand separate the “weed” granules from the “feed” ones
Posted on 8/4/23 at 2:48 pm to BilbeauTBaggins
As stated do not use the Scott’s W & F - the atrazine herbicide in that product would damage your lawn at this time. If unopened you can use it next spring (late March)
Posted on 8/4/23 at 7:08 pm to CrawDude
This has been a nice informative thread - thanks 
Posted on 8/5/23 at 8:29 am to BilbeauTBaggins
Applying humates, this week. That allows time for another application before Halloween, and the first cold front.
Posted on 8/5/23 at 12:45 pm to BilbeauTBaggins
I’ve definitely given up on my lawn this summer, so might as well start prepping it for a better 2024. Good info here.
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